Brother Reginald has prepared this nice table that lists wire cross reference info for Whirlpool, Frigidaire, and LG ice makers. Wire away!
Source: How do I splice ice maker wires?
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from the use and care manual https://www.dropbox.... - 12828152.pdf
In some installations, reversing the door swing allows
for more convenient access to stored items. Both
doors can be reversed on freezer door models and the
fresh food door is reversible on freezer drawer models.
1. Remove door(s) (see page 4).
2. Transfer cabinet plugs and cabinet
screws to opposite side of cabinet.
• Remove cabinet plugs with flat
blade of screwdriver tip wrapped
in masking tape.
• Remove center mullion screws
with 5⁄16” hex head screwdriver
3. Transfer door stops from bottom edge of fresh food
door and freezer door, if applicable, to opposite
side of door edge.
• Use a Phillips screwdriver
for removal and installation.
4. Install handles (see below
and page 7).
5. Reinstall the door(s).
Remove and discard handle packaging and tape.
Handle design varies from refrigerator to refrigerator.
Please reference the appropriate instructions for your
Fresh Food Handles
Standard Front Mount Handle
• Phillips screwdriver
• 5⁄16” hex head driver
1. Remove 1⁄4” hex head screws from
door face with hex head driver, and
Phillips screw from top of door.
• If reversing door, remove door
plugs from opposite side of door and insert in
2. Align handle holes with screw holes on
door face and secure with two door face
screws from step 1.
To avoid possible injury and damage to property:
• Place doors on a nonabrasive surface protected by
towels or rugs while working directly on doors.
Note: If not installed, the handle is located in the
interior of the fresh food section or attached to the
back of your refrigerator.
4. Ensure the door handle is snug to the
Reverse installation procedure.
Power On Diagnostics
When the icemaker is first connected to power and if thermistor temperature is 50°F (10°C) or higher,
the control will perform a Power On test before entering the freeze cycle.
The test consists of the following:
• Turn on the motor until it reaches home the next time.
• Turn on the water valve for 1/2 second.
• Tum on the heater for 1/2 second.
• Verify that the feeler arm was in the "in" and then in the "out" position.
• Verify that the motor was not in the home position and then in the home position.
• Verify that the motor does not remain on after being turned off.
• Proceed to the freeze cycle.
Note:The power on test will only add 1/2 second of water, which will not overflow the mold with a normal fill,
but may cause a small cube when the refrigerator is first started.
If the temperature is below 50°F (10°C), the control will power up normally.
If in the home position, the control will enter the freeze cycle.
If the motor is not home, the control will enter the harvest cycle but bypass water fill to avoid overfilling the mold.
During the first 15 seconds that power is first applied to the icemaker,
the Service Diagnostic Test mode may be entered.
The service mode is entered by pushing the feeler arm from the "out" position to the "in" position
and back again 3 times and only 3 times within 15 seconds.
Note: If the icemaker has already started a harvest cycle and the arm is moving,
it may be impossible to properly move the arm and enter the service mode without allowing it to reset and powering up again.
The service diagnostic mode consists of a harvest cycle followed by a water fill.
The harvest cycle is entered immediately, regardless of icemaker temperature or arm position.
While in the harvest cycle in the service mode, the heater will remain on for a minimum of 20 seconds.
The water fill cycle will initiate the first fill (5.1 seconds) without waiting for the mold to "prechill".
Only one water fill occurs during the service mode, whether the thermistor has reached 39.2°F (4°C) or not.
The icemaker will exit the service diagnostic test on its own and enter the normal freeze cycle.
Sounds like you have a FIP, (Foamed-In-Place), door liner. I've only had to replace a door gasket on a FIP door one time and probably will not every do it again.
You have to cut the old gasket in four places, (in the middle on each side), and carefully pull the gasket lip straight out from under the plastic liner, being careful not to pull up and break the liner away from the foam.
They you have to make sure the channel is clear of any remaining foam particles with a putty knife about 1/2" in all the way around.
Then the you have to get the new gasket installed, this was the nightmare part. Says to insert opposite diagonal corners first then other two diagonal corners. First two-no problem, third corner-no problem, forth corner - OHHH!!!!! What B!TCH!!!!! It was a real fight to get it to stretch out enough without tearing the gasket to get it over and under the lips of the liner.
Concur with Brother Willie on the gasket replacement. Attempt only as a last resort. I think if you follow the instruction sheets on those they want you to remove the door to replace the gasket.
FIP gasket aren't that bad to do. The replacement gaskets have a had plastic edge that snaps into channel between liner and door panel. After removing the old gaskets I put silicone caulking where the new gasket will snap into the liner. Two problems with FIP door gasket replacement:
1. If you don't put adhesive the gasket tend to slide, especially on the hinge side where the door cams constantly slide up and down
2. The gaskets often come in too small and need to be stretched, I've done plenty that go on no problem and I have had a lot that seem about 1/4 too short.
Basically the original gaskets are better and should only be changed if there are significant tears, splits or missing magnets.
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