After replacing evaporator fan and having the main board rebuilt ... the new fan wouldn't run. Well it turns out that the new fan comes with a new wire harness BUT it only applies to certain models. It swaps some wires around and if you install it on the wrong model the evaporator fan doesn't get power!!! It looks just like the orignal (unless you look closely at the pinout). It seems the fan doesn't ship with the WP instruction sheet. Fan p/n 8201589, board p/n 2252159 and brothers, jumper harness p/n 2221077.

This has got to have caused a lot of head bangin' ! ??

Here's the instruction sheet. Sorry it's a png. Site didn't let me attach the pdf.

I'm reminded of one time, a fellow tech and myself were at the shop.  He was working on a large countertop microwave and I was down the hall in the front office.  We could see each other and were carrying on a conversation, I forget about what.  I'm absolutely positive he had a few fillings in his mouth because as he was looking and talking to me his hand must have touched the high voltage diode or capacitor, discharging it.  I kid you not sparks flew out of his open mouth!  Being the trained and responsible guy I am I immediately fell to the floor, laughing my ass off.  I eventually recovered and asked him if was ok and he said yes, just scared the hell out of him.  I said, "Man, did you see sparks fly out of your mouth?"  He said no, he must have missed that.  Needless to say we both found new respect for microwaves and the awesome, dangerous, and sometimes hilarious power of the high voltage capacitor.

New variable speed inverter motors no longer
require the in-line fuse. When replacing an
older Hydrowave inverter motor with the new
inverter motor, the in-line fuse must be
removed from the washer harness. Failure to
remove this fuse link will cause the fuse link to
fail due to the higher inrush current of the new
motor design.

Replacement motors will include a jumper wire
and 2 wire splices to remove the in-line fuse.


Read more: http://appliantology.org/topic/41994-ge-wjre5500goww-washer/#ixzz2SpWjBMAt

Understanding Engineers #1
Two engineering students were biking across a university campus when one said, "Where did you get such a great bike?"  The second engineer replied,  "Well, I was walking along yesterday, minding my own business, when a beautiful woman rode up on this bike, threw it to the ground, took off all her clothes and said, "Take what you want."  The first engineer nodded approvingly and said, "Good choice:  The clothes probably wouldn't fit you anyway."

Understanding Engineers #2
To the optimist, the glass is half-full. To the pessimist, the glass is half-empty.  To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

Understanding Engineers #3
A priest, a doctor, and an engineer were waiting one morning for a particularly slow group of golfers. The engineer fumed, "What's with those guys?  We must have been waiting for fifteen minutes!"  The doctor chimed in, "I don't know, but I've never seen such inept golf!"  The priest said, "Here comes the greens-keeper.  Let's have a word with him."  He said, "Hello George, What's wrong with that group ahead of us?  They're rather slow, aren't they?"  The greens-keeper replied, "Oh, yes.  That's a group of blind firemen.  They lost their sight saving our clubhouse from a fire last year, so we always let them play for free anytime!."  The group fell silent for a moment.  The priest said, "That's so sad. I think I will say a special prayer for them tonight."  The doctor said, "Good idea.  I'm going to contact my ophthalmologist colleague and see if there's anything she can do for them."  The engineer said, "Why can't they play at night?"

Understanding Engineers #4
What is the difference between mechanical engineers and civil engineers?
Mechanical engineers build weapons.
Civil engineers build targets

Understanding Engineers #5
The graduate with a science degree asks, "Why does it work?"  The graduate with an engineering degree asks, "How does it work?"  The graduate with an accounting degree asks, "How much will it cost?"  The graduate with an arts degree asks, "Do you want fries with that?"

Understanding Engineers #6
Three engineering students were gathered together discussing who must have designed the human body.  One said, "It was a mechanical engineer.  Just look at all the joints."  Another said, "No, it was an electrical engineer.  The nervous system has many thousands of electrical connections."  The last one said, "No, actually it had to have been a civil engineer.  Who else would run a toxic waste pipeline through a recreational area?"

Understanding Engineers #7
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.  Engineers believe that if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet.

Understanding Engineers #8
An engineer was crossing a road one day, when a frog called out to him and said, "If you kiss me, I'll turn into a beautiful princess."  He bent over, picked up the frog, and put it in his pocket.  The frog spoke up again and said, "If you kiss me, I'll turn back into a beautiful princess and stay with you for one week."  The engineer took the frog out of his pocket, smiled at it and returned it to the pocket.  The frog then cried out, "If you kiss me and turn me back into a princess, I'll stay with you for one week and do anything you want."  Again, the engineer took the frog out, smiled at it and put it back into his pocket.  Finally, the frog asked, "What is the matter?  I've told you I'm a beautiful princess and that I'll stay with you for one week and do anything you want.  Why won't you kiss me?"  The engineer said, "Look, I'm an engineer.  I don't have time for a girlfriend, but a talking frog - now that's cool."

You're probably going to find the evaporator coil in the freezer choked in with frost, in which case, the problem is almost always the infamous Jazz Control Board.  

There's a tech sheet in the toe grill that tells how to put the board in diagnostic mode for various tests.  But the most common failures with this board are 1) failing to initiate defrost and 2) keeping compressor running during defrost.  Both result in a frosted up evaporator coil.  

Put the unit into forced defrost.  If the defrost heater fires up, that means the defrost heater and limiter are good.  Then go ahead and replace the Jazz Board.  

Here's my video showing how to do the diagnostic dance:

The Frigidaire dryer control board "runs home to mama" with the E68 fault code.  It's the only fault code listed and the only one it knows.  It indicates stuck button as Brother Reg advised.  I've never found a stuck button, usually a bad board.  Did have a Gallery dryer the other day with control board and interface.  Threw an E68 at me so I ordered the main control board to have when going out.  Turned out to be the interface.  RATFARTS!!!  P/N for your board is 134523200.

Quick way to check evaporator:  With compressor running drain the water from the reservoir by removing bottom cap. Let run for a couple of minutes and check for slight frost on evaporator plate, touch top of plate with wet finger-should stick.  If not cold, turn unit off and listen for a hissing noise from evaporator.  Not cold and hissing-bad evap.  Would replace compressor as well for moisture contamination.

Your Name: karla *******

Your Email Address: karla********@********.net

Your Appliantology Username, if you have one:

What would you like to talk about? Other NON-APPLIANCE REPAIR problem

Talk to the Samurai: Less than a week ago i bougth thru ebay and pay by paypal a part to my fridge apparently it came ok but once intalled only worked for two days, is there a possibility to return it and change the part for one that works please call ***-***-**** i need the fridge to work
Item title
Price
Shipping price
Qty
Item total

NEW GE refrigerator main control board part WR55X10942 ( item: 261174184655 transaction: 1192412668016 )
Paid on Apr-16-13
$89.25
Free
1

$89.25

Shipped on Apr-18-13
USPS Priority Mail

Estimated delivery: Tue. Apr. 23 - Wed. Apr. 24
Tracking number: 9405503699300397360687

Sometimes a shorted fan motor can give you that same scenario. You can try unplugging j2 fan connector and see if the compressor comes on. If it does then you need to just determine which motor is shorted. I've only this happen to me once and it was the evap motor.

If you do a lot of GE fridge repairs, you may benefit by getting a diagnostic aid shown in the following video. It is, in essence, nothing but a control panel that you can use and will bypass the one in your fridge,  whether it is a similar panel, knobs or lcd screen control found at the dispenser. With such a panel, if you connect it and everything works, then you will be certain you have a bad control panel.  

btw, the part numbers needed for the aid have been changed. Instead of the three parts mentioned in the video, you need two WR55X10390 (interface and touch panel kit) and WX05X14999 ( wire harness). I got one a few weeks ago and it paid for itself in a few days.

ps you  can make one of these by removing a 5  key control interface from an otherwise dead GE and then purchase the harness.

Looking at the parts breakdown for that model, it looks to me like the correct maintenance kit for your dryer is this one
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Maintenance-Kit/5304457724/1198622

Notice in the picture that the upper felt does not have the three plastic glides. That's because the plastic glide on your dryer is attached to the drum, it is the newer design.

The 5304461262 mentioned above is for the older design, with no plastic glide on the front of the drum.
Another thing worth noting is that this is a GE brand dryer but it is built by Frigidaire. The part #'s for the kits are Frigidaire numbers. You won't find them on the parts breakdown for a GE.

Knowing how parts interchange is one way us professionals can save our customers, and our fellow forum members, some dough.

BTW... gas coils... Whirlpool, GE, an Frigidaire all have part numbers for exactly the same part. Guess which one is Generally most Expensive

You can also verify by doing the test the Brother Kurtius prescribed, reprinted here for your viewing pleasure:

1. Remove receiver board (right side) and insert wire into plug in black/black-white wire locations . This effectively bypasses the optics for test purposes. if you have no black/blk-white wires in the plug don’t panic, just chose the two wires beside the blank hole, not on the end.
2. test for voltage at the 4 wire harness plug, black to white and black to green…should have 120vac in both places. if not, inline fuse is open or wire is broken or separated in the liner. very bad and prolly not repairable (the broken wire not the fuse).
3. if voltage is present, hookup i/m and test at the points on the motor module head previously noted L and N…should have 120vac.
4. if voltage is present, install jumper between test points T and H…this should start the icemaker on a rotation if all the above outlined conditions are true. if it doesn’t, the motor on the module is bad. if it does start, reinstall i/m and wait till it fills and parks. remove jumpers and reinstall optics receiver. icemaker should work…if not, we have proven the icemaker assembly is good and the optics must be at fault, regardless of whether the light flashes are checking good or not.

If the board checks bad by this method, it's slam-dunk dead.

Emitter-Receiver Board

Your Name: Mari

Your Appliantology Username, if you have one:

What would you like to talk about? Other NON-APPLIANCE REPAIR problem

Talk to the Samurai: Hello Samurai,
It seems I have that "infamous and failure-prone adaptive defrost control board" for Jenn-Air JCD2389GEW as pictured here on your website. It has the same numbers #P19-399# SIEBE APPLIANCE CONTROLS 1996. It also has various other numbers such as MAYT78245.001, ECD#100-01103-01, 20R1448-00, 60727Q, AJW4212, JWIFSN, 062707367, and also THAILAND. I would like to know which part I would need to replace this part. My "original" still keeps the freezer and ice-maker working properly, fans are turning, and refrigerator section is cool, although probably not cool enough, but it does not defrost itself. I have to manually defrost every morning and evening to keep it going. There are so many of these Part #61005988 offered for sale at a great variety of pricing, so I don't know which to choose, as they all claim to be #61005988. I contacted Jenn-Air and was told that mine was Part #61003990. I tried ordering an inexpensive generic part #61003990/#61005988, but that didn't function at all, and did not operate my fridge at all; total waste of time and effort. I had to reinstall my original part; I have no difficulty installing the part, as I know how to do it, and I am proficient at it! I guess I need an "original", but I don't know where to obtain one. Perhaps a more expensive OEM part #61005988 would work, but now I'm almost afraid to try again. The part I tried had a number on it #MA7700112254-TH#. I assume that the "TH" stands for Thailand. It certainly DIDN'T have the #61003990 or #61005988 on it. I DON’T WANT THAT PART AGAIN! It is confusing to have all these products available with the same part number and a wide variety of different prices. I've seen so-called brand new items like this for as low as $19.95. I would appreciate your input. I need a "working" part, not a make-believe part, to waste my time and effort. WHY are there so many different prices on this item???? DOES the price affect the “workability” of the product???? WHICH PART NUMBER SHOULD I ASK FOR???? I look forward to your response. THANK YOU MOST KINDLY,
Regards, Mari

here's the short version:

- Remove everything from the tub front and back.  (Shocks, hoses, pressure hose, bottom hose, ground wires, drive belt, motor, pulley - but leave the bellow still attached, just disconnect it from the washer front.)
- Pull the weights off front and back to make it lighter.  (Tub's are about 53 lbs with all weights removed.)
- Lift the tub out the back (you might disconnect the top brace that holds the valves and lift it up to make it easier.)
- With a Sharpie, mark where the clips are on both halves.
- Remove all the clips and separate out.
- If you are doing this because of a bad bearing, you have to replace the rear tub as well.  
- Don't forget to gob up the new bearing with the supplied grease ... and don't forget the new gasket that goes between the tubs
- Put the halves back together - you may have to pinch them together with Channel Locs to get the first couple of clips back in place
- Reassemble
- Double check that all hoses have been connected before testing.

Beer time.

yes it is the transformer

the noise is a loose winding and will never stop the microwave from working or make it unsafe in any way

if you replace the transformer the noise will go away

Pretty easy to troubleshoot with a multimeter at the inverter board. On the leftmost connector, using wht/red for your neutral to the meter, you should have 120vac on the red/blk wire and the orn wire (gray on some models). Still using the wht/red for neutral, on the rightmost connector (control voltages from timer) you should get 120vac on these wires depending on mode of operation.

High speed agitate, blu and vio/wht
Low speed agitate, wht and vio/wht
High speed spin, blu and red
Low speed spin, wht and red

If you are getting the appropriate voltages for a particular mode and the motor isn't working, the motor is faulty or you have the wrong one. There are about 5 different versions of this motor/inverter and they are not interchangeable. On washers that use an electronic control board versus a timer, the control voltages are low DC levels, not line voltage. The inverter has it's own microprocessor, memory and program algorithm for operating the motor. The control voltages from the timer simply tell it what mode to begin operating in. If you are not getting the proper voltages from the timer, the timer could be faulty or you may have a faulty pressure switch or wiring/connection problem. There should be a wiring diagram behind the control panel.

Eric

this may apply:

Freezer Drawer (some models)
1. Open drawer to fully open position.
2. Remove upper and lower basket.
3. Remove screws one in each rail marked on side of rail.
4. Lift front of drawer up and out to remove drawer.
5. Set drawer on a padded surface to prevent damage to finish.

The early stages of a motor failure exhibits the famous 60 cycle hum.  120 volts is supplied to the motor; if any of the windings begin to short; there is not enough induction, the rotor of the motor stalls and eventually locks (locked rotor amps) draws excessive current and trips the internal/external overload on the motor. Before this occurs, if a winding in the motor is shorting, you will hear a buzzing noise which is the 60 cycle frequency of the 120 volt supply indicating (perhaps) a failing motor.

I go out on a DOTT type whirlpool dryer, order says it won't finish cycle. He leads me to the laundry room and I find the thing completely dismantled. He said he hired a buddy to fix it, but he couldn't figure it out. He had the front off, the burner tube out, he bent and broke the clips to force off the kick panel. he removed the rear bulkhead, he took the front off with out removing the blower, he even took the screws out of the door. He failed to gain access to the console, lots of bending and pry marks but he never found the clips to open it up.

The only wrong with the machine was a blown thermal fuse.

It took 3 min to find the problem, and 90 min to rebuild the dryer around the new thermal fuse.

What a tool.

When the electromagnet pulls the plunger down, it doesn't close the drain flapper all the way, (only about 3/4 of the way closed), then the water pressure hits the flapper and holds it sealed against the spray arm outlet so the water goes out the drain.

When the water pressure hits the drain flapper and opens it the rest of the way it takes the load off the solenoid. The solenoid is only energized for about 30 seconds and if it finishes draining before the the timer turns off power to the drain solenoid then the return springs will pull pressure against the magnetic force of the solenoid and can cause the buzzing noise.

I just wanted to share a part number I recently received from Whirlpool after much arguing and tons of recalls for this issue.  I work in Northern VA area, and we have ran a lot of builder calls around here with the top shelf freezing on the SXS for the last 2 years.  Whirlpool made us change sensors, pcb, dampers, blame the customer for blocking the back shelves, applying permgum inside damper area, etc. There haven't been many techs on our team that have run into this as much as the few of us stuck running new home calls. I found out they made a new damper design to fix this issue, but did not have a part# for a long time. I was to the point of telling the customer not to call us back for this issue and contact their builder and Whirlpool, so they could get this new damper. Well the part# for this new damper is W10572852. I hope this helps anyone that may run into this issue. I do not have specific model numbers, but it has mainly been the SXS manufactured in the last couple years with the ice makers located on the freezer door.

Understanding and Diagnosing SENSOR DRY
Category Home Appliances > Washing Machine > Dryer Model Code DV203AEW/XAA / DV203AGS/XAX / DV203AGW/XAA / DV203AGW/XAX / DV206AES/XAA / DV206AGS/XAA / DV206LEW/XAC / DV306LEW/XAA / DV306LEW/XAC / DV306LGW / DV316BGC/XAA / DV316BGW/XAA / DV316HEC/XAC / DV316LES/XAA / DV316LES/XAC / DV316LEW/XAA / DV316LEW/XAC / DV316LGS/XAA / DV316LGWXAA / DV317AEG/XAC / DV317AES/XAA / DV317AES/XAC / DV317AEW/XAC / DV317AGS/XAA / DV317AGW/XAA / DV326LGS/XAA / DV328AEG/XAA / DV328AER/XAA / DV328AEW/XAA / DV328AGG/XAA / DV328AGR/XAA / DV328AGW/XAA / DV337AEG/XAC / DV337AEG/XAP / DV337AEL/XAC / DV337AER/XAC / DV337AEW/XAC / DV338AEB/XAA / DV338AEW/XAA / DV338AGB/XAA / DV338AGW/XAA / DV4015JFW4/XAP / DV4015JJW/XAC / DV4015JJW2/XAC / DV4015JJW3/XAC / DV428AEL/XAC / DV428AEW/XAC / DV438AER/XAA / DV438AGR/XAA / DV448AEP/XAA / DV448AEP/XAC / DV448AEW/XAA / DV448AEW/XAC / DV448AGP/XAA / DV448AGW/XAA Added by STEVEP Registered date 10.21.2008 Description
Circuit Description and Operation

Sensor Dry Mode automatically measures the moisture in the load and shuts the dryer off when the proper level of dryness is reached. This sensor dry should not be confused with a temperature sensor, the sensor bars measure moisture and the temperature sensor “thermistor” measures temperature.  Sensor dry uses nothing more than two metal bars inside the edge of the drum. These bars do not go bad unless they are physically damaged however it is always a good practice to clean them whenever servicing using some rubbing alcohol, especially when the unit gets older. Never use sand paper or other abrasive methods.

At the start of the cycle an estimated time will be displayed as the Main PCB monitors the sensor circuit for 3 minute after the 3 minutes the estimated time can increase decrease, stay the same or advance to off based upon the moisture detected. The unit will do this assessment multiple times during the auto cycle and can adjust the estimated time as needed.

Diagnostic Procedure:

The sensor dry bars can be checked easily by
placing a coin across both bars and checking for
continuity.
Being more specific the resistance values are listed
below
Dry Clothes = Infinity
Wet Clothes = ~190 ohms ±10%

The sensor bars can be also tested in diagnostic mode. Place a slightly damp cloth in the dryer, start a normal cycle then press the Temp + Signal buttons for 3 seconds. When there are wet items being dried, data will add up (from 0 to 1200 and repeating) as the wet clothes touch the sensor bars. If the sensor bar value does not increase as wet items contact it the sensor is defective.

NOTE:  Select any Auto cycle without clothes hit start unit should run for 3-5 minutes and shut off.




SENSOR DRY Customer Education
Category Home Appliances > Washing Machine > Dryer Model Code DV203AEW/XAA / DV203AGS/XAX / DV203AGW/XAA / DV203AGW/XAX / DV206AES/XAA / DV206AGS/XAA / DV206LEW/XAC / DV218AEB/XAC / DV218AES/XAC / DV218AEW/XAA / DV218AEW/XAC / DV218AGB/XAA / DV218AGW/XAA / DV2C6BGW/XAA / DV306LEW/XAA / DV306LEW/XAC / DV306LGW / DV306LGW/XAA / DV316BGW/XAA / DV316BGW/XAX / DV316LES/XAA / DV316LES/XAC / DV316LEW/XAA / DV316LEW/XAC / DV316LGS/XAA / DV316LGS/XAX / DV316LGW/XAA / DV316LGWXAA / DV317AEG/XAA / DV317AES/XAA / DV317AEW/XAA / DV317AGG/XAA / DV317AGS/XAA / DV317AGW/XAA / DV326LGS/XAA / DV328AEG/XAA / DV328AER/XAA / DV328AEW/XAA / DV328AGG/XAA / DV328AGR/XAA / DV328AGW/XAA / DV337AEG/XAA / DV337AEG/XAP / DV337AEL/XAA / DV337AER/XAA / DV337AEW/XAA / DV337AGG/XAA / DV337AGG/XAX / DV337AGL/XAA / DV337AGR/XAA / DV337AGW/XAA / DV338AEB/XAA / DV338AEW/XAA / DV338AGB/XAA / DV338AGW/XAA / DV3C6BGW/XAA / DV3C6BGW/XAX / DV4015JJW2/XAC / DV428AEL/XAC / DV428AEW/XAC / DV438AER/XAA / DV438AGR/XAA / DV448AEP/XAA / DV448AEP/XAC / DV448AEW/XAA / DV448AEW/XAC / DV448AGP/XAA / DV448AGW/XAA Added by STEVEP Registered date 10.21.2008 Description

Usage and  Customer Education:

Sensor Dry Mode automatically measures the moisture in the load and shuts the dryer off when the proper level of dryness is reached.
At the start of the cycle an estimated time will be displayed as the Main PCB monitors the sensor circuit for 3 minutes. After the 3 minutes the estimated time can increase, decrease, stay the same or advance to off based upon the moisture detected. The unit will sample moisture level multiple times during the auto cycle and can adjust the estimated time as needed.

The length of the dry time will be proportional to the size of the load as well as the moisture in the clothes.  However there are several factors that will effect dry time. These can be installation issues such as improper venting or a clogged lint filter. Another reason for clothes not being fully dried is the fabric itself. For example, towels or jeans are very thick and can contain some moisture even though the outward edge is dry. For best results always wash like items such as towels with towels jeans with jeans etc.  It is important that loads are large enough to make adequate contact with sensing bars for feature to work properly. The customer complaint for undersized loads would be “clothes not dry at end of cycle”. If consumer has the need to wash and dry just a few articles of clothing recommend using time dry for those loads.

NOTE: Always remember the time being displayed is an estimated time and can increase, decrease, stay the same or advance to off anytime during the cycle.

NOTE: Wrinkle Prevent  Feature will extend cycle for 90 minutes. Drum will tumble with no heat and lights in control panel will oscillate.
Wrinkle Prevent is often overlooked as possible cause for long dry times or dryer never shuts off..

I've had f2 errors where the problem was a thermal fuse. Usually I test probe and fuse (if there is one), and reset ecm if possible before I replace a board on any oven, regardless of manufacturer or error codes.

With regards to tech sheet writers, the following question and response was found on 85 % of their requirement exams...



The problem is, their examiners consider it the correct answer.

Bad model#, but:



Customer Concern: Dishwasher stops approximately 10 minutes into the cycle, “cancel drains” and goes directly to standby mode (off).

Cause: Testing has determined that cycle stopping may result from a software error that can cause a false error code that cancels the cycle. Techs will see a 6-1 error code recorded in service diagnostics. This issue is very sporadic, and is affected by the location of the household and region of the country. Other conditions that may also cause this “cancel drain” cycle are: siphoning through the drain hose, severe sudsing, and debris in the sump.

Correction:
If the customer experiences a “cancel drain” issue, first check the following:
1. Make sure the dishwasher is installed according to installation instructions provided with the unit.
2. Check for water siphoning out through the drain hose. Ensure that the drain hose end termination point is above the water level in the tub. The drain loop attached to the side of the tub is not sufficient to prevent siphoning.
3. Check for severe sudsing or a malfunctioning Rinse Aid dispenser.
4. Check for locked rotor in wash pump.
5. Check for and remove debris in the bottom of the sump/chopper area.
6. Check for water supply and proper water level in the dishwasher.
7. If all the above checks are OK, then the control will need to be replaced with one that has the upgraded software designed to handle any additional power variation.

Verify new board is Control Board W10380685, the upgraded part.

There have been multiple threads discussing this electrical topic. Because of increasing demand of this information, I will try to explain this shortly and comprehensively.

On the background there is the three-phased transmission network. This is wired by three separate wires that normally hang adjacently along rows of poles. The voltage between each wire is 11kV, and the waveform graph drawn for each wire's voltage (and current too) are one third of a cycle off each other. That is, there is a 120 degree phase shift between each live wire's waveform, 360 degrees being one full cycle.

The relatively high voltage for the transmission network is selected, because there are two interesting laws about power. First, by principle, electrical power taken by any load can be calculated by multiplying the current flowing through the load, by the voltage over the load. Second, wattage loss at transfer can be calculated by multiplying the transfer line's resistance, by the square (or second power) of the load current. Therefore, for transmitting the same power, if double voltage is used, half the current is needed, and 75% less power is lost on the trip! Let's just say that if they use 11kV instead of 110V for transfer (100x voltage) they need the hundredth of current, and lose only a ten thousandth of power in transit, compared to the idea that it was 110V all through the Great United States of America.  The other choice would be using at least one hundred times thicker wire, which is not reasonable at all.

It is not safe to feed this high voltage directly into households. Instead, the voltage from the transmission network will be stepped down by transformers. The usual layout is that single-home buildings have their own stepdown transformers, and larger residential buildings in big cities may have one or a couple larger transformers.

120V: First off, the standard household voltage in North America is 120V AC, 60Hz. Most appliances are designed for this. There can be some variations in the voltage depending on the load and condition of the network. The stepdown transformer has its primary winding wired between two of the three transmission wires.

Due to growing demand of electrical heating (in dryers, ranges, water heaters and sometimes house interior heating) a system has been required that allows usage of 120V designed electronics, and is capable of providing more power for the household. For the same reason that the transfer network doesn't work with such a low voltage, the single 120V circuit can only give so much power without the power loss becoming astronomical. There are two methods used to avoid this while keeping compatibility.

240V or split phase: For small residential buildings, the usual method is to rig up a 240V stepdown transformer (instead of 120V) in which the secondary winding is split into two 120V windings (hence the name "split phase"). The center tap is then grounded and fed to the house as if it was the neutral wire of the old 120V system, and each end is wired as a separate 120V live wire. Their waveforms have a half-cycle offset, or 180 degrees, when measured against the neutral wire. The normal 120V designed machinery does not care which live wire you use for them as long as you connect them between a live and neutral wire. Appliances in the home can be distributed on either live wire to maintain balanced loading, and when heating requires high power, the concerned appliance can be connected to both live wires to operate the heating element, providing 240V for it.

208V: For larger residential buildings and blocks especially in big cities, as well as shopping malls etc, there is a system made out of two or three phases. In these cases, one or more of full three phase stepdown transformers are used to feed power to the building. These transformers have three primary windings, each wired between two of the transmission wires, in a triangular fashion. There are also three secondary windings on such a transformer. Normally these are coupled at one end, the center tap is grounded and fed into the house as the neutral wire, while their other ends are fed into the house as separate live wires. Each live wire reads 120V against the neutral point, and between any pair of live wires, you get the reading of 208V. Then, each home in the building is fed with two or three of these live wires as well as the neutral. The rest happens much like on the split phase. Appliances can be distributed on different live wires, and heating elements will be connected between two live wires.

Now, mostly the differences the customer is concerned with, are just that appliances with 240V designed elements will produce 25% less heat on a 208V system. Some appliances are produced in two models designed for the two systems, some are produced in one model designed for 240V with the power reduction noted in the manual, and some are produced in one model with 208V designed elements as optional spare parts.

If you operate a 240V designed device on a 208V system, often you will not notice much retardation in the performance. It WILL cause your oven, stove or dryer to reach selected temperature slower, and the thermostat will therefore cycle on for longer periods. However, total energy consumption is not greatly affected.

Be aware that mismatching a 208V designed device into a 240V system will cause the element(s) to produce 33% more heat than they are designed for. This will greatly shorten their life span and may cause fire hazard. Temperature in the oven, stove or dryer will probably fluctuate more than what is desirable, and the thermostat will cycle on for short periods. Especially in the case of the dryer, the risk of fire hazard is high.

I will add more pictures when I have drawn some decent ones. Meanwhile, here is a haphazard hand sketch.

Just want to share a little tip on the GE 2001 and newer SXS refrigerators. Some of you I'm sure have seen this, but if you haven't, when you see this problem you will remember this post and it can turn a frustrating, time consuming and expensive call into a 5 min call that will make you look pretty smart. I had a callback today for a sxs that another one of our techs was out on yesterday. The complaint was warm fridge and freezer was ok. The other tech had written down that the damper was stuck and he manually freed it up. I called bs when I saw that diagnosis and planned on treating it like I was 1st on the call. When I get there and walk towards the fridge I notice the fridge door is uneven with the freezer, which always bothers me and I usually adjust them for the customer on GE's without bringing it up to them because it is so easy to do. That is all the other tech would have had to do. The refrigerator light wasn't shutting off because the door was dropped down too far to hit and close the switch. When this happens the motherboard recognizes this and shuts the damper down, I assume it thinks the door is open and wants to keep the warm air out of the freezer so the evaporator doesn't frost up. This time the plastic cam broke, the door dropped just enough to keep the switch from being acuated and the damper shut down. I had a good idea what was up when I saw the uneven doors. I opened the fridge door, pushed in the switch and heard the damper start to open. That was the problem. I gave the hinge a few turns and I looked pretty smart to the customer this time, but only because the 1st time I ran into this I spent about 45 min trying to figure out what was going on, including changing out the motherboard in the process, and all it needed was 5 min and a hinge adjustment. I hope this helps someone down the road.

from the service manual:

Main Top Removal
1. Disconnect power to cooktop.
2 Remove cooktop from installation position and place face down on protected surface.
3. Remove screws securing main top to burner box bottom.
4. Remove screws securing control panel box and conduit mounting plate to burner box assembly.
5. Remove main top.
6. Reverse procedure to reassemble, verifying that cooktop frame is properly aligned.
NOTE: Make sure the pieces of insulation, located in the front left and right rear corners,
are put back in place.
Failure to do so could create excessive cabinet temperatures.

Had three service calls in the last two weeks on overflow/leak of detergent dispenser on front loader washing machines. Customers are putting capsules in dispenser rather than the tub. This causes, in some cases, incomplete desolving of capsule which leads to blockages and overflow. LG has a note/bulletin on the issue. Remains to be seen how the long-term "proper" use of these will effect sensors in the motor.

Finding the reason for clumped ice in an ice maker bucket is not always an easy thing. If you are lucky, the issue may be apparent otherwise you have to look for certain clues and use process of elimination.

This is how I would tackle your problem, it may not be elegant but it works for me.

First I would see if there is any obvious signs of problems like incomplete ice cubes, frost build up around the door or ice maker chute. This would give me a clue that the problem may be related to outside air. If not frost, as in your case, I may only do a cursory glance at the ice chute door, gasket and sealing capability of the freezer door. I do this on all fridge calls anyway. More than likely there is no air leak if I don't see frost. I then quickly see if the freezer door closes okay and engages the light switch.

Since I did not see any frost, my main focus would be on the ice maker and water valve. There is hopefully a perceptible leak so then I would start a harvest cycle with the ice maker. Most of the time If no frost is present, I start a harvest cycle even before I check the door, gaskets etc as mentioned in the previous paragraph since it's just a cursory check and I can complete it before the water valve engages. Btw with regards to your question about starting a harvest cycle ...no... only the whirpool style ice maker requires jumping. Your ice maker is started one of two ways depending on the type. If it has a white paddle, turn the ice maker off for about 10 seconds, turn it back on and press the paddle in three times within 6 seconds. If it has the metal bail arm, lower the arm and grab about two or three of the ejector "fingers" and gently but firmly pull then to you in a clockwise rotation. After a few seconds of doing this, release them and the harvest cycle will start. BTW the "fingers' as you call them on this style, are not in an up or 2:30 position like the whirlpool modular style when at rest. Remember this distinction as pulling the whirlpool style ejector fingers may destroy the ice maker.

After a few minutes, the ice maker will energize the valve. Water will enter the fill tube and run into the ice maker receiving cup. I'll look closely for leaking. If the tube or cup is partially frozen, water may fall in to the bucket. If so, problem found ..clear the ice buildup. If not, I'll look under and around the ice maker to check for any perceptible leaks. If a leak is found, I have to determine if it is coming from a crack or is the ice maker simply over flowing with water. If the latter, it may be possible to adjust the water fill level through an adjustment on the icemaker. This adjustment, however, usually adds or subtracts only about one or two tablespoons of water at the most. If this adjustment doesn't stop the overfill situation then I have to replace the valve.

If I still haven't found the problem then we have the dreaded (*&@#$!) imperceptible leak. That leak only shows up during lunar eclipses, on the 31st day of February or when you are not looking. It could be the ice maker unnecessarily energizing the valve or the valve itself. There's several ways to handle this. Replace them both or one at a time. This depends on how much time/customer's money you want to spend.

If the ice maker is more than five years old or has peeling Teflon coating, I would replace it first as it needs to be replaced anyway and see what happens. If leak continues after a few days, then it's time for a new valve.

If the ice maker is relatively new, I would replace the valve first since it is generally less expensive. If I get them from repair clinic I can always return the part that did not fix the problem.

There is also a neat test that can be done on the valve to see if it is the problem. Remove all ice and water from the ice maker, remount it but do not connect it. no...simply turning it off aint good enough. Keep it disconnected (or disconnect the ice maker side of the valve). If, after a few days, there is water in the ice maker, then undoubtedly we have a leaky water valve.

Other things to consider, ice maker mold heater not turning off, very high/low water pressure at the spigot, water filter issues and an out of sync ice maker, Whew! I need to start charging more for this repair. I'm exhausted just pretending to do it and I am certain I missed a thing or two. Anyhow, by now I should have solved the problem and it's time for a brewski. But no, can't since I'm pretending to be at work! All I can do is quietly celebrate by putting another victory notch on my screw gun.

Todays topic   MAH2400AWW

As usual a Maytag, even though they didn't build it, they brought this piece of fucking junk into the US. All you got to do to make something a worthless pile of steaming monkey dung is slap the Maytag name on it. Even the Whirlpool built Maytags suck big time, the Maytag badge is a curse apon the land.

I quess it's just asumed, by the "engineers", that an apartment sized front load washer would never have the dryer stacked on top and be shoved into a closet next to a water heater. And there isn't any way a coin could ever get into the pump. So I figure it was a great idea to have no front access panel or filter or coin trap. An even better idea was to put the pump as far from the rear access panel as possible. And kudos to the fucking shit head who made the pump mount screws go up through the base, that was a nice touch. The crowning achievement is the muderous sharp edges on every metal edge.

After suffering a two hour process to remove a quarter, I have this wish for everone involved with this machine being in my homeland..

"I want to bash you in the 'nads a 1000 times with an aluminum baseball bat until you cough up you own skull"

Bastards