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Blogs



Featured

The Anatomy of a Miele dishwasher Waterproof System

Posted by LI-NY Tech in LI-NY Tech's Blog, 30 April 2015 · 89 views

Miele produces the best dishwashers on the market today. They are high end machines...very quiet, they wash well and last many years beyond the life span of a lesser quality brand. However, like all machines they do break down. One of the most common failures to occur on a Miele dishwasher is the Water Proof System (WPS). That's that mysterious grey box under your sink. What is that thing?

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The WPS is a dual water inlet valve. The redundancy ensures that if one valve fails to close the other will, greatly reducing the chance of flooding your kitchen. That brass part on the left attaches to the house plumbing, the box contains the two solenoids and the gray tube contains the water intake hose, the wiring and outer sleeve. When the electronic calls for water the solenoids open and the water flows through the intake hose and into the dishwasher.

The outer sleeve acts a protection against leaks. If the solenoids leak the water will flow along the outer sleeve and into the drip tray in the base of the dishwasher. When enough water accumulates the float switch will be activated and the water intake will stop. The drain pump will also be activated until the machine is unplugged or the water is no longer present in the drip tray.

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The inlet to the WPS contains a filter and a restrictor. The filter stops large debris from entering the system and the restrictor ensures correct water pressure. The filters often get clogged and can be easily cleaned.

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The Miele dishwasher service manual states:

The WaterProof System (WPS) consists of a number of interdependent safety features to provide protection against water leakage.
1. Protection against solenoid valve leakage: Each water intake is controlled by an inlet valve. If this valve cannot close properly due to some defect or blockage by a foreign object, a second inlet valve ensures that the water supply is shut off.
2. Protection against water intake hose leakage: If a leakage occurs, water flows along an outer hose sleeve surrounding the intake hose to the drip pan. Here a float switch then acts to switch off a microswitch which closes the inlet valves to cut off the water supply.

3. Protection against dishwasher overflow: If some defect has caused the water level in the appliance to rise so that it overflows into the drip pan, and the water quantity sensor has also failed, the float switch is activated. This switches off a microswitch which closes the inlet valves to cut off the water supply. At the same time the drain pump is activated.
4. Protection against drain pump failure or blocked drain path: In this case the water level in the appliance rises until it overflows into the drip pan where the float switch is activated. This switches off a microswitch which closes the inlet valves to cut off the water supply.


Thanks for reading.
David
RD Appliance Service, Corp.
http://www.rdapplianceservice.com
RD Appliance Blog


Featured

Bosch Schematic Basics

Posted by Applianceman97 in applianceman97's Blog, 29 April 2015 · 123 views

This is mainly for anybody that is new to working on Bosch products. Their schematics can be intimidating. Here is how decode them.




Part deception

Posted by MicaBay in MicaBay's Semi Knowlegable Blog, 21 April 2015 · 187 views
part not what it seems

Recently, I needed to put two infinite burner switches in a Frigidaire slide in range. These switches were for the two large burners. Installed them, and did the simple but basic tests. Both burners now working, customer is happy, :blinky: , I'm happy. I collect my beer :pint1: money for the day and off to other adventures.

Customer calls back next day and not so happy. One burner doesn't get hot enough to hardly boil water. Okay I said, see you later today? Yes. Get out to location and here is what I discovered.... see the pictures below.

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Did you see it? I almost didn't. Of course the story above is highly plausable but totally fake, because, I saw it before installation of said part. Moral is, always inspect your parts before installing them. One of the switches must have fallen off the assembly line and been packaged with the wrong part number... At the Factory!! Say it aint so, a manufacture making a part mistake?!!? :woot: :woot:

This job can kill you. Be careful and check for voltage if you have an electrical complaint.

Posted by TheApplianceTechnician in TheApplianceTechnician's Blog, 17 April 2015 · 290 views
electrical problem and 4 more...

From now on potential electrical issues will be a big red flag.

Get into the habit of checking a unit’s frame to a trusted ground before you start working on anything with a power related issue.

I went out on this call expecting something to be wrong with the refrigerator and so as usual I start the standard diagnostic process. It was plugged into a standard outlet and not a gfi so I automatically rule out nuisance trips from being the culprit. I opened the door, felt the hot gas lines, listened to the fans, checked the temps in the freezer and the refrigerator, cycled the icemaker, put the unit into defrost and heard the heaters kick on and start sizzling. Everything seemed to be normal and working as expected.

At this point I figured a mouse may have gotten into a wire or the icemaker line and I really needed to check the back compartment out anyway so I pulled it out to take a look. Again everything looked normal, nothing unusual. I unplugged the unit, checked for continuity between neutral and l1, ground and l1 and again nothing unusual. I plugged the refrigerator back into the outlet and needed to roll it forward a little so I pushed the bare metal back with my hand forward and in doing so my knee hit the copper line coming out of the wall. This is where I simultaneously found the problem and I took 120 volts straight through the chest, violent shaking the whole bit. It hurt like hell and left me scared to touch the damn thing again, but I went back to work.

I checked the outlet and it was wired backwards (hot and neutral reversed) but that's not really that uncommon for a house that's 20+ years old around here. I checked ground to neutral and I got some really big fluctuations in resistance that were sometimes unreadable by my fluke meter so I knew something was going on but not sure exactly what. So I checked ground to the copper pipe. 120 volts. I plugged the refrigerator into a gfi outlet that had a microwave on it and turned off the breaker to the refrigerator and got her in contact with an electrician I know and trust. He went out and a few days later I spoke with the customer again and she told me that the electrician said I was really lucky so I had to call and speak with him about it. I called him and he told me that the ground wire had shorted out to the hot line, energizing everything. I asked him how that was possible without tripping the breaker and he said that the outlet didn't return to ground, that someone had crawled under the house and rigged up the electrical line at some point probably removing the ground and that something chewed the wires shorting the ground and the hot line. The lady said she had no knowledge of it and it must have been done before she bought the house.

I'm making the assumption that something had chewed the wire shorting the rigged up ungrounded ground wire to the hot line. I still don't understand completely what happened but I know I got the shit shocked out of me and if I would have had a hand hold on something I may have been killed, but I wasn't thankfully. It still scares me though. This woman was old and frail and if she would have touched the refrigerator and the sink or the microwave anything to a good ground it probably would have killed her. Be careful with electricity. I've been shocked many times but never like that. 120 volts are extremely powerful. We tend to get complacent with it.

Featured

Samurai Tech Academy Open House and Campus Tour


NOTE: The meeting details have been edited.

Who: YOU!

What: You've undoubtedly heard of the Samurai Tech Academy, where young apprentice appliantologists and seasoned appliance warriors alike come to hone their troubleshooting skills to razor-sharp deadly accuracy. Here, now, is the opportunity you've been longing for to peek behind the bamboo shades of the legendary dojo of Master Samurai Techs in training. Come join us for an open house and campus tour of the Samurai Tech Academy and watch with amazement and delight as legendary Master Samurai Techs are formed in the fiery crucible of appliantological knowledge. Virtual sencha green tea, Sapporo rice beer, and Akita Homare sake will be served. We look forward to your fellowship.

When: April 20, 2015 @7:30pm Eastern Time

Where: https://join.me/837-661-044

(note - if the wrong number is in the box, enter the number 837-661-044 where it needs to be)
The Join.me service will work fine with a web browser but the app gives a better experience. You can download the free app here: https://www.join.me/apps

Once in the conference, you'll need to enable audio by either connecting with your computer or your phone. This page has the simple instructions: http://help.join.me/...conference-call

On a computer, use any browser with Flash. Nothing to download.
On a phone or tablet, launch the join.me app and enter meeting code: 837-661-044

Join the audio conference:
Dial a phone number and enter access code, or connect via internet.

By phone:
United States - Camden, DE+1.302.202.5900
United States - Detroit, MI+1.734.746.0035
United States - Hartford, CT+1.860.970.0010
United States - Los Angeles, CA+1.213.226.1066
United States - New York, NY+1.646.307.1990
United States - San Francisco, CA+1.415.655.0381
United States - Saugus, MA+1.781.666.2350
United States - Tampa, FL+1.813.769.0500
Canada - Bradford+1.226.401.9363
Canada - Charlottetown+1.902.200.0149
Canada - Edmonton+1.587.415.0177
Canada - Montreal+1.514.800.1233
Canada - Ottawa+1.613.699.9318
Canada - Quebec+1.581.705.4251
Canada - Saskatchewan+1.306.400.1019
Canada - Toronto+1.647.977.2648
Canada - Vancouver+1.778.654.8779
Ireland - Dublin+353.1.531.4868
Ireland - Dublin+353.1.513.4791
United Kingdom - London+44.33.0088.2634
United Kingdom - London+44.20.3514.9080
United Kingdom - Manchester+44.161.820.1607
Access Code763-500-396#

Other international numbers available

By computer via internet:
Join the meeting, click the phone icon and select 'Call via internet'. A small download might be required.

Start time by time zones

Featured

Can't a Brother Have a Little Fun?

Posted by DurhamAppliance in DurhamAppliance's Blog, 17 March 2015 · 260 views

Brother Smash recently asked a question about what else we did and then specifically asked about video games. (see http://appliantology...lse-do-you-do/)He made me remember there are more things in life than repairing appliances. Now don't get me wrong, I love being a tech but he made me remember times when I had fun doing other things

So I thought I'd look for some of my old games and maybe relive the days when I battled foes other than refrigerators and maybe also reveal a little about myself while I'm at it:



Thanks to Appliantology I went from enjoying blowings shit up to keeping things working.

Featured

Dishwasher Pain In The Hose

Posted by Patricio in Patricio's Blog, 16 December 2014 · 464 views
Drain Issues

Dishwashers can be a pain to diagnose correctly. A recent example is a Samsung DMT400 RHS that gave me a fit with the delicate blinking light corresponding to a drain problem. Used the fast tract for diagnostics.

Reset control board (Unplug/Replug unit), put into diagnostics & went thru cycles with drain cycle toward end of service mode. Unit drained but flow was weak, so I inspected disposal inlet & drain hose for blockage which was first problem to inspect on Fast Tract. No restrictions found, next on list was drain pump.

The ohms found on the pump were below specifications so I suspected pump was weak & shaft possibly seizing. Replaced pump, flow was improved, but the flow still seemed weak. Dishwasher worked for a few loads then shut down again with the delicate led blinking. Posted question what am I missing & got feed back of blocked drain hose and case sensor which is next on list of problems.

Replaced case sensor on this unit over a year ago for filling issue, did not think that it was the culprit although there was sediment building in the assembly.

I replaced the water sensing case assembly as a parts changer not knowing how much millivolts to check for at the board. Also rechecked drain hose & blew thru drain hose from case brake back thru pump & into tub. No restrictions felt there, could hear the tub water gurgling. Reinstalled machine & babysitted cycle (watching paint dry) completed wash cycle & drained with what I perceived as weak flow, but drain it did with no problem. Two days later another call for incomplete cycle. What is going on? Bad PCB board which was last thing in problem list.

Now I am really determined, set aside 3 hours to focus completely on the machine. One thing I did not do was check harness connections so that was in the battle plan. Arrived reset board, started normal cycle, pump did initial drain with very little water in sump, filled, & washed ((watching paint dry again but I viewed posts on Appliantology in the process).

Finally began drain cycle. With hose in bucket the flow was sputtering Knew for sure I had a blockage problem. I pulled main drain hose off took it outside & run high pressure garden hose water, passed with flying colors. Next I pulled hose from pump to case brake, applied water pressure & that is when the culprit was dislodged. What appeared to be a couple of small feet that are attached to some cutting boards.

Now apparent the intermittent problem was these feet caught in the bend of the drain hose that would pivot allowing water to flow at a reduced rate & then turn enough to plug the gap allowing very little flow thus causing the drain cycle to time out before completely emptying the sump.

Moral of this story if having a intermittent drainage problem that shuts down a dishwasher, Samsung in particular, eliminate all drain hoses as a possibility of blockage by putting high pressure(60+ psi) water thru them with an outside garden hose.


​Link to forum topic:
http://appliantology...r-dmt400rhsxaa/

Featured

Coconut Lime Chicken Soup

Posted by Mrs. Samurai in Mrs. Samurai's Kitchen, 10 November 2013 · 1,269 views

Here's a Thai-inspired chicken soup that is easy to make and bursting with flavor! It's healthy comfort food with an Asian twist.

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Ingredients
  • 2 tablespoons coconut oil, ghee, or butter
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 1-2 pounds uncooked chicken breast, diced
  • 1 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped fine
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced, divided
  • 1 quart chicken broth (I use either homemade or a box of low sodium, no added MSG.)
  • 1 can coconut milk (look for this in the Asian/Thai section of the grocery store. I prefer regular, not "lite".)
  • 1 lime, juiced, divided
  • ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes
  • 4 scallions, chopped
  • ½ bunch cilantro, chopped
  • salt, to taste
  • optional: Thai fish sauce, cooked rice
Directions

Heat a soup pot over medium high heat, then add the coconut oil. Saute the onions with a little salt for a few minutes, then add the chicken chunks with a little more salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until chicken is just cooked through. Add the ginger and half of the garlic towards the end of this.

Stir in the broth and bring to a boil, then stir in the coconut milk, half of the lime juice, and the red pepper flakes. Reduce the heat to low and simmer covered for at least 15 minutes (longer is fine, too).

Turn off the heat, and add salt to taste (depends on the amount in your chicken broth). Stir in the rest of the garlic, the scallions, and most of the cilantro (leave a little aside for topping individual bowls). Add the rest of the lime juice if desired. Cover and let sit off-heat for 5 to 10 minutes, then serve.

Great served over rice. Add a few drops of fish sauce to your serving to knock the flavor out of the park!


From: Amana NED7200TW Dryer no heat, problem with cycling thermostat?

Posted by kdog in kdog's Blog, 16 March 2012 · 3,533 views

[Yes, I did reset the breaker and checked the voltages. Here's the wiring diagram:
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Source: Amana NED7200TW Dryer no heat, problem with cycling thermostat?



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