Just have to memorialize this in a blog....
watch and be amazed as Brother Acfixerdude shows us his excellent technique for doing what used-to-be a pita repair...
take it away Bro Afix.........
Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:
Just have to memorialize this in a blog....
watch and be amazed as Brother Acfixerdude shows us his excellent technique for doing what used-to-be a pita repair...
take it away Bro Afix.........
Finding documentation for Kenmore appliances can be challenging at times. If you are lucky, you may locate it in our download section. When searching, try searching with the decimal, without the decimal, removing the decimal and numbers in front of it and replace them with an "*" while also replacing the last few letters with an "*". See Searching for technical documents http://appliantology.org/topic/51337-getting-started-at-appliantology/.
But usually, Kenmore's are a pita to find info. You have to somehow cross reference the model to the manufactures compatible model.
Sometimes if you find the part number for the mainboard or user interface, you can cross reference the part to a model where the documentation is easier to find. Some manufacturers do make it easy. For instance
Frigidaire made Kenmores ... just look it up on Frigidaire's site but you must include the decimal.You will get a tech sheet but to find a full manual, check out my Frigidaire survival kit blog http://appliantology.org/blog/15/entry-748-frigidaire-refrigerator-survival-kit/
LG is also easy.. just use the first five digits after the decimal and look it up on LG's tech assist site.
Whirlpool made? Good luck with that....
Samsung? . well....
Source: Kenmore Refrigerator (Samsung) 401.41003010
look up the model at Searspartsdirect... try to cross reference the mainboard using appliance parts pros (full site) ... but it only brings up other Kenmore models...damn... that means we got to do our own cross-referencing. so let's play Sherlock Holmes....
While we are already looking at it, let's grab a screenshot of the mainboard to compare with other samsung models.
On Sears, you see this fridge is a sxs..
Samsung refrigerator model numbers start with R (Refrigerator)then an S for sxs or f (french door) b (bottom mount) M (four door... maybe it may stand for Multiple door but I call them Mutha@#&fs!)
So far we have RS
If it has a three way valve then the next letter will be a G otherwise a number. So let's check out the machine compartment on the Sears' diagram and we see a 3 way stepper valve ... great! This means there are only a couple of Samsung models to compare boards with.
So far we have RSG
Check my Dropbox or Appliantology's library for models beginning with RSG (use wildcard search "rsg*")
And there are two models...let's look at the fast track for the first one... model RSG257AA .... hmmm.. i dunno.... they look sort of different... well the pictures' orientation are different... color seems off... but examining them closely... counting connectors... ah ha! it's the same board. There you have it cross referenced to an RSG257AA. Elementary, my dear Watson... uh... Bro. Patricio
Now , I did not spend all this time and trouble so I could ask you out on a date. Copy this post for future reference 'cause next time you have a Kenmore - Samsung fridge cross reference manual request and you don't attempt to obtain it yourself first and I have to go through all this again... well, we know how that's gonna turn out... lol
Brother Smash recently asked a question about what else we did and then specifically asked about video games. (see http://appliantology.org/topic/52791-what-else-do-you-do/)He made me remember there are more things in life than repairing appliances. Now don't get me wrong, I love being a tech but he made me remember times when I had fun doing other things
So I thought I'd look for some of my old games and maybe relive the days when I battled foes other than refrigerators and maybe also reveal a little about myself while I'm at it:
Thanks to Appliantology I went from enjoying blowings shit up to keeping things working.
This is the first in a series of short video tips.
First up is a tip passed on to me from Applianceman97. It's info he recently acquired in a training class. Even with all the knowledge bro A97 has, he continues to train and attend classes. A superior tech who continues to up his game is an unstoppable force. We're lucky to have him share his knowledge on appliantology, even if he is still so young he has to ask permission to leave the porch.
Wow, It's been 3 years since I wrote this one...and since then I can't believe I've made nearly 4000 posts and done countless repairs! Time sure flies when I'm having fun but I, as well as us all, must take a little time to give thanks. Once a year is certainly not enough but making this day special helps us remember to give thanks, always:
In my best Lawerence Welk voice (young uns, look him up on youtube)...., "This time, a short Thanksgiving tribute to those of us who sacrifice family holiday time to help beleaguered customers "
There and Back Again,
The Travels Triumphs and Tributes of an Appliance Repairman
Over the river and through the woods
To customer's house you go
You know the way
'Cause GPS say
"Turn right, keep straight, go slow...ohhh! (everybody join in and hold the note to signify passage of time and for dramatic effect).....ooohhhh!"
Over more rivers and through more woods
Then rightly herald as "king!"
As customer bakes
A turkey, a cake
In an oven once stuck in Self-Clean.
Over the rivers and through the woods
Back to your house you go
To give thanks and pray
This Thanksgiving day,
For being blessed with a job you love so.
An interesting tool that supposedly makes it easier to remove boards from those pesky plastic stand-offs.
My thoughts before getting it:
2) I could make one
3) Limited use
My thoughts after receiving it:
1) This thing is nicely built
2) Looks very professional,
3) I can't wait to try it
My thoughts after using it:
1) Love it!
2) Makes removing boards a snap
3) I'd buy one again in a heartbeat.
How easy is it to use this tool? Well, I took the following video using my left hand while I removed a GE board from its standoffs with just my right.
Thanks to Brother BryanS for introducing me to this tool. It still would be nice if it could double as a blow gun... but I guess I can't have everything.
Sometimes after working on ADC, mainboards, jazz boards, genesis boards, utah boards, and beta boards, it's a relief to repair a fridge where the defrost is controlled by a good old standard timer. That is until you have to use the Whirlpool universal timer and have to re-read those "encoded" instructions. Over a year ago, when I had some time (and this timer) on my hands, I decided to break that code. Recently, I discussed this info but forgot what I came up with and it took some time to find my post.
So to have it at my fingertips and hopefully help one or two folks down the road, I decided to save it here, in my blog... hope you find it useful
Source: 106.8492410 Kenmore refrigerator
When I cannot find the wiring diagram for a Whirlpool manufactured fridge, the following has worked for me when installing the whirlpool universal timer (the one with the innocuous looking dangling black wire)
A)According to the timer manual, For whirlpools If your timer connector has a white wire it is continuous (or possible a cumulative version 2, but hook up is the same) use procedure 1 (black wire to terminal MARKED #1...which does not mean the first pin)
B)If there is a red wire use procedure 2 (black wire to terminal MARKED #2) .
C) Cumulative version 2 uses procedure 3 which is the same as procedure 1(blackwire to terminal MARKED #1)...but usually there is a red and a white wire....but since you already determined there was a white wire you should have used procedure 1 anyway(terminal MARKED #1).
Also remember, if the timer runs when the fridge is plugged in regardless of whether the cold control is off...it is continuous ie procedure 1
***So in essence, if there is a white wire use procedure 1
**if there is a red wire and no white, wire use procedure 2.
***Ignore procedure 3 as it is the same as procedure 1.
Again, this is for wire colors used by Whirlpool.
For further reading....http://appliantology.org/files/file/51-whirlpool-kitchenaid-maytag-amana-and-jenn-air-refrigerators-adc-defrost-systems-service-manual/ give a good explanation of standard timers as well as adc
Most techs are aware of one or two common mainboards used in GE Arctica and Profile type fridges. The most common I suggest you have in stock as part of my GE Fridge Survival Kit ( see http://appliantology.org/blog/1/entry-730-ge-refrigerator-repair-survival-kit/)
However, the other day I came across another similar board that I wasn't familiar with, or so I thought. Main Board Part no. WR55X10832 I didn't think I'd seen that version before until I found one in my old board collection (I keep many old boards to... uh... to.... uh... hell, I don't know why I have them).
This meant I had replaced this board before and I hope I replaced it with the same board as opposed to the board I keep on stock. Well, I never got a call back on a board replacement so maybe I did but it seems as though I would have remembered this strange part number....
Anyhow, the following is a GE mainboard cross-reference... just make sure to always check the part number even if you think you know the board as they all look quite similar.
WR55X10335, WR55X10151, 1531075, AH2364946,EA2364946, PS2364946, WR55X10024, WR55X10037, WR55X10045, WR55X10056, WR55X10065, WR55X10079, WR55X10083, WR55X10086, WR55X10090, WR55X10097, WR55X10109, WR55X10110, WR55X10160, WR55X10171, WR55X10174, WR55X10177, WR55X10187, WR55X10188, WR55X10210, WR55X10228, WR55X10289, WR55X10294, WR55X10297, WR55X10314, WR55X10328, WR55X10333, WR55X10336, WR55X10339, WR55X10358, WR55X10366, WR55X10372, WR55X10379, WR55X10381, WR55X10385, WR55X10396, WR55X10413, WR55X10416, WR55X10426, WR55X10427, WR55X10432, WR55X10436, WR55X10456, WR55X10473, WR55X10474, WR55X10523.
WR55X10774, 1550509, AH2371144, EA2371144, PS2371144, WR55X10657, WR55X10658, WR55X10662, WR55X10697, WR55X10745, WR55X10929, WR55X10943.
1266021, AH1483475, EA1483475, PS1483475, WR49X10092, WR49X10115, WR49X10121, WR49X10138, WR49X10147, WR55X10156, WR55X10414, WR55X10492(interesting, as this board is still produced yet less expensive than the title board) WR55X10530.
WR55X10384, WR55X11109, WR55X10286, 2309992, PS3652491, WR55X10167, WR55X10178.
1194661, AH1021960, EA1021960, PS1021960, WR55X10383, WR55X10400, WR55X10433.
1477944, AH2340423, EA2340423, PS2340423.
I'm sure some of you wonder why I'm always preaching about being prepared, scanning service manuals/tech sheets, looking for bulletins, reading pertinent posts etc prior to going on a repair. I think the following best illustrates my reason:
I had lots of fun disassembling and reassembling this GE model PGCS1NFXASS and I had the pleasure of doing it twice in two days.
The first day I replaced a bad mainboard and replaced the evap thermistor for good measure. There were no burned out fan resistors and the evap fan seemed to work fine. Rookie mistake. I still should have tested the fan's rpm at the board. Heck, I should have just changed out the fan regardless just to protect the new board as GE suggests. But I was trying to save my customer some money. My punishment? A second visit and second disassembly.
This makes two times I had to do a follow up disassembly of this style. A year ago I did a defrost on a similar model but already used up all of my thermistors earlier that day. What joy. At least when doing a follow up dissasembly, the overly factory tightened screws have been loosened up.
bring the whole family as this disassembly and reassembly is lots of fun for everyone. However, you better bring ear plugs for the kids for the curses you'll throw at the fridge designers will be legendary.
I hope this helps you kick some Samsung Fridge Bootay!
On a Samsung repair, the First thing you do is talk with the customer about the problem. DO NOT open or let customer open the doors or unplug the fridge. "Ma'am, don't touch the fridge. Only the facts, please."
The second thing you MUST do with Samsungs is "talk to the fridge." Again do not open any doors, do not permit customer to open any doors instead check the display for error codes then run error code diagnostics (using diagnostics or unplugging fridge erases stored error codes so check the display first then initiate diagnostics., Some errors take a while to report so look closely first otherwise you may miss a code that takes 4 hours to reveal itself). If any sensor error code comes up, simply replace that sensor. A sensor error code means the fridge cannot communicate with the sensor and this can result in a locked down fridge.
But just because you don't see a sensor error code does not mean your sensors are good. In fact, if you don't see an error code at all but you have cooling problems, it typically means a sensor is communicating but it is sending wrong information.
Boards do not consider these "out of spec" sensors as errors...the fridge thinks maybe you put a hot bowl of molten lava or ten bags of dry ice in the fridge. For all it knows, you may be a mad scientist or something. So it will not consider these crazy temps an error but the system responds accordingly by cooling too much or not cooling at all. It's simply doing its job. (update.. 2013 and newer models will show an error if the thermistor reports over 149f or below -50f)
Next step is to put the fridge in a forced cooling mode... your compressor and fans should now be running. Don't forget the fans will not run unless the doors are closed.
Use strong magnets to simulate s closed door. You know you have the magnets in the right locations if the light goes out. Take note of any non running fan motor or compressor.
After checking diagnostics and entering forced cooling mode, take a quick and I mean very quick laser therm reading of fridge compartments and record your findings. However DO NOT OPEN ICE ROOM DOOR if the fridge has one, especially if you are there to repair an icemaker issue.
Next step, Main board diagnostics. Let any initial diagnostic test or fan/compressor operation guide you but generally test ALL... yup ALL thermistors at the board first. You are checking dc voltages so keep the fridge on and do not remove the sensor connector at the board. Back probe the connector using thin meter probes. RECORD YOUR FINDINGS. Oh, so you are getting an open reading, huh? Well duh, turn the the meter dial from ohms to DC and voila! Don't ask me why I made a point of mentioning this.
Compare your findings with the sensor temp chart in the fast track and with your intial temp readings. If something seems off, make plans to replace that thermistor and you more than likely have solved the problem.
If all sensors test fine but you have compartments that are not at the normal operating temp, you must test all sensors located in that compartment at operating temps. This means you must do the ice water test on sensors in a fresh food compartment or feezer compartment that is much warmer than normal.
The good thing about this is you can easily remove these sensors and drop the sensor in an ice water slurry sitting on a counter top. Wait 5 minutes and test... compare with chart but this time you are doing a resistance check., Replace any sensor whose reading doesn't show something close to 32f. Yep, I bet you forgot to move the meter dial back to ohms, didn't you?
If sensors check out, then continue testing systems on the board. Now remember, Samsung will provide you test pin information and also give you the corresponding wire colors but many times you will be probing pins on two diffrent connectors. So if you see something like this...
CN30 Sensors and switches
1-5 Freezer Dr Sw (Blk-Gry)
2-(CN50-7) R Door Sw (Prp-Gry)
then you simply go to the CN 30 connector and if you are checking the freezer door switch, back probe pins 1 and 5 at that connector which correlate to the black wire and the gray wire.
**** HOWEVER, if you are testing the fresh food door switch, you back probe at pin 2 on CN 30 but you must go to the gray wire at pin 7 on connector CN 50 for the common. The common for both switches is a Gray wire both but located on two different connectors. Most sensor tests involve two different connectors. This is easy but it will trip you up if you are not careful.
And since you were brilliant enough to keep the ice room door closed, you can get an accurate reading of the ice room. Now you can go to the ice room, take therm readings of the ice room and icemaker sensor. Easy peasy.
Also you may have to remove evaporator covers to check for frosted up evaps. Unlike other fridges, you may not see any frost buildup on the outside of the cover. Remove the covers carefully. You may have to put the fridge in defrost or use your steamer to remove it. Cover still won't come off? Well did you remove the hidden screws located behind the light lenses? Samsungs can be sneaky like that.
Clear any buildup and unblock any clogged drain tubes. You must replace any damaged fresh food evap cover for a damaged cover or damaged styrofoam WILL cause a future frost problem. This is also a good time to check the defrost system while the fridge is in forced defrost.
btw always have on hand a few Samsung sensors... Part no DA32-00006W is the most common used DEFROST sensor some other sensors may have different connectors so get a few
DA32-10105X to keep from splicing.
Once you learn these machines, pretty soon you will be sought out and folks near and wide will be singing songs of your Samsung supremacy.
Finding Frigidaire manuals is a bit different from other manufacturers.
The Style and manufacture date are more important than the model number.
Once you know the manufacture date for a fridge, simply pick the last manual produced before that date. If you don't know the date, you can always click here ,http://b2b.frigidaire.com/support/manuals.asp and download the owners manual for the model and you will see the manufacture date bottom right on the first page. You can also get wiring diagrams there as well.
Note that there is one manual that covers SxS manufactured 2007-2013 except there is a 2009 manual produced for the Iceman Version.
Currently there is only one manual for their French door bottom mount fridges and only one manual for the standard bottom mount. So if your customer says he has a bottom mount, you need to find out if it is a French door or not.
Right now There is one manual that covers topmounts since 2010
I am having some difficulty uploading dropbox files to the download section so until they are uploaded here, some of the files are from my dropbox account. Put these files on your tablet and you should never be without the proper manual.
PS Any additions or suggestions are welcomed!
The Frigidaire Refrigerator Survival kit (Current SxS and French Door models )
SxS 2007-2013 Service Manual # 5995501516 http://appliantology.org/files/file/123-frigidaire-sxs-refrigerator-with-reciprocating-compressor-and-adc-ii/
SxS 2009 (Iceman) Service Manual # 5995536439 https://db.tt/5kbEixnW
SxS 2004 with Genesis Control # 5995413142 http://appliantology.org/files/file/1545-frigidaire-2004-sxs-refrigerator-with-genesis-controls/
SxS 2001 Next Gen Service Manual # 5995352423 https://www.dropbox.com/s/bzn3m1k5shbfs5f/FRIGIDAIRE%202001%20sxs.pdf?dl=1
SxS 1999 L5 Service Manual # 5995318606 http://appliantology.org/files/file/1555-frigidaire-line-5-sxs-1999-refrigerators-service-manual/
Frigidaire Refrigerator GE Built-in SxS E42BS85EPS E42BS75ETT http://appliantology.org/files/file/642-frigidaire-refrigerator-ge-built-in-sxs-e42bs85eps-e42bs75ett/
Flashing 4 Diagnostic Procedure for SxS with Controls Inside the Fresh Food Compartment https://www.dropbox.com/s/84uj26froxja83v/895_Flashing_4_Diagnostic_Procedures_for_SxS_with_Controls_Inside_the_Fresh_Food_Compartment.pdf?dl=1
Frigidaire beta control diagnostics http://appliantology.org/files/file/685-frigidaire-fridge-beta-control-diagnostics/
All Top mounts 2010 to date
All Frigidaire French Door Refrigerators 5995556437 https://www.dropbox.com/s/tcsutapr0m6mu43/837_Frigidaire_Service_Manual_23_26_28_cu_ft_FDBM_4_20_11.pdf?dl=1 (this file is newer than the 2010 fdbm file in the dl section)
All Frigidaire Bottom Freezers 20 & 22 cu. ft 242289900 https://www.dropbox.com/s/2xmr3r22h093108/961_Frigidaire_2drBF.pdf?dl=1
Frigidaire Convertible Freezer: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ggxoqtk38us6l84/341_FrigidaireConvertibleFreezeManual.pdf?dl=0
Water valve troubleshooting guide..https://www.dropbox.com/s/9x3z1femvi2pl8e/939_Water_Valve_Troubleshooting_Guide_w.out_Cover.pdf?dl=1
Error code booklet for Frigidaire and electrolux https://www.dropbox.com/s/fbxj83iu0co4bpx/804_Error_Code_Booklet.pdf?dl=0
SY CE SY CF error code bulletin :https://www.dropbox.com/s/a2np3m60ds2lxpa/999_SYCE_CF_Error_Codes_Tip.pdf?dl=0
PS pt 2....if you have a finger evap style Icemaker issue, don't look at me... call brother BryanS. lol
PS pt3 Make sure to check this blog from time to time as I will continually update/modify this info
Why so many voltage testers? Well during last years ASTI, the instructor in Basic Electronics asked for those who were afraid of electricity to raise their hand. I embarrassingly raised my hand along with a few others.
He then asked for a show of hands of those who had a healthy respect for electricity. To those he replied "you are the ones most likely to die from an electric shock." I agree. I work well with electricity but it scares the hell out of me. I check multiple times for voltage using multiple testers.
Why the fear you ask? Let's go back to Christmas 1971... I had just turned 12...
My grandmother gave my older brother and me an electric football set for Christmas. No ... no Madden, no Xbox, no Playstation . Even this was too far advanced for the time.....
Heck, that would have been some Jules Verne, Star Trek type shit if we saw that in '71... what we had was....
Just listen to that current flowing.... such raw power! Man, that's football! Well, one late night the power stopped flowing. I was finally about to win a game against my brother and his formidable Baltimore Colts but when I clicked the switch, nothing happened.
I don't know how I diagnosed it but I somehow determined the switch was bad. I unplugged it and took the switch apart. That's when I had an epiphany. I understood it! The switch did nothing but interrupt or connect the line. No problem, for I am... uh... just a 12 yo runny nosed kid who just knew he understood electricity.
My dad had some light switches in his tool room. I figured I'd use one of those to replace the bad switch. My brother, 4 years my senior, wanted nothing to do with it. "Simple" I said, and proceeded to connect the wires and connected them properly. Not only were my Dallas Cowboys about to conquer my brother's Baltimore Colts but I was about to conquer electricity!
The play was set... "hike!"... followed by a "click" of the switch sending my players crashing into the opposition and me crashing to the floor. You know, there is an old saying that if you are working on electricity, have someone standing by with a two by four to knock you free. I wished my brother had a two by four in his hand. I would have welcomed getting knocked the hell out. Instead, I vibrated along with that football set for what seemed like hours and I subsequently continued to have "vibration spells" for weeks to come.
I thought I understood electricity and had no fear of it. Just a dumb preteen kid who later found out about the principle of insulation and that masking tape, like I used on the switch, does a really poor job of it. Luckily, I survived but forever changed in apparently two ways 1) since that time, I have a healthy fear of electricity and 2) my mom told me my hair use to be curlier when I was 11.
ps that football set was the 1971 Super Bowl edition Colts vs Cowboys. My brother being older, took the winning Colts. I had the Cowboys and sad to say, that's why I'm still an honest to goodness Cowboys fan to this day. Yeah, yeah I know... shocking.
Complaint was intermittent Cooling on a GE SxS profile... temps in the 30's, ice melting, soft ice cream etc
Sensors all passed ohm test
No apparent seal, gasket, dispenser door leaks
All fans working... condenser coils clean... light switches okay
Frost pattern perfect... no defrost issues
compressor and relay okay.
So maybe the board fails when too many systems are running at the same time...
time to use the load test suggested by fixyourboard
(for more info on how to make the probe see http://appliantology.org/topic/21308-ge-fridge-tool-diy/)
CORRECTION: I meant to say in the video you would know there was a failure if the reading was 13.3 or 13.2 vdc using the shunt.
I examined this thing so deeply you'd think I was a Refrigerator proctologist. Then I caught a break. The customer wanted me to check out a problem with his ice bucket. Apparently the rod that switches the ice from crushed to cubed was loose.
As I was testing it and after the third time I pressed the actuator, the ice chute door remained wide open. The next time it closed perfectly and the time after that it remained wide open. Problem, oxidation in the solenoid, easily fixed with an emory cloth and lubrication.
Diagnosis.... intermittent ice chute door (and no tell tale frost around the chute or icemaker to lead me to this conclusion)
From now on I will not just examine the ice chute door, but activate and watch it open and close several times.
Btw... please, whatever you do, do not forget to remove that shunt probe and do something like... uh... test a 120vac connector for voltage. It aint pretty. Damn, I can never find the aloe vera when I need it.
1 pound ground beef
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 sweet onion, chopped
1 small green bell pepper, finely chopped
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and finely
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 (14.5 ounce) cans dark red kidney
beans, drained and rinsed
2 (14.5 ounce) cans diced tomatoes,
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes,
or to taste
2 tablespoons chili powder
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste
2 cups water
1. Place the ground beef in the pressure cooker over medium high heat; cook until brown and crumbly, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the ground beef, and drain off the excess fat.
2. Return the open pressure cooker to the burner over medium heat, pour in the olive oil, and stir in the onion, green pepper, and jalapeno pepper. Cook and stir for 3 to 4 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Add the garlic, and cook and stir for about 30 more seconds. Return the meat to the pressure cooker; mix in the kidney beans, diced tomatoes, tomato paste, brown sugar, cocoa powder, red pepper flakes, chili powder, cumin, salt, and water.
3. Lock the lid, bring the cooker up to pressure, reduce heat to maintain pressure, and cook for 8 minutes. Remove cooker from the heat, and let the pressure reduce on its own, 5 to 10 minutes.
4. When the pressure is fully released, remove the lid, stir the chili, and serve.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED © 2012 Allrecipes.com
Went to a range repair last week. Old electric Frigidaire drop-in. Not much info to be found. One burner not working. No worries I say, for I am DurhamAppliance.
Didn't have a manual and never disassembled one of these before... no worries I say, .. How hard can it be?
Get out there and discovered it uses those really thick swivel style burners.... No worries I say, probably just a bad connection.
Tried to remove the burner screw, it wouldn't budge and became damaged. No worries I say, I got me a dremel.
Went to my truck but forgot I used the dremel for house renovations the other day. No worries I say, I'll just take apart the console and test the switch. If the switch is good then I'll just get a burner and bring my dremel the next time.
Never disassembled such an ancient stove before, no worries I say, how hard can it be?
After about 30 minutes of fumbling around I got it apart, for I am DurhamAppliance.
Tested the switch... it passed, No worries I say, all I have to bring next time is a burner and my dremel.
Reassembled the console... tight fit, took only another ten minutes but I got it back in place, for I am DurhamAppliance.
Turned the power back on, check the burner and a short yet spectacular explosion of sparks shot across the room. One of the wires connecting to the burner light indicator came off and fused against the inside of the stainless steel control panel causing a burn spot that permeated through to the front side. No worries I say, I'll just buff it out with some Barkeeper's Friend next time I come.
Put the console back together, this time removing the light indicators from the console and installing them after the console was back in place. This way I can keep my eyes on those pesky connectors. Turned the power back on, tested everything.. no sparks, no explosions, no screaming, for I am DurhamAppliance.
So now, pack up... list of things to bring, dremel, burner and Barkeeper's friend.. but the burner is no longer available. No worries I say, for I know people.
The guy I was getting the burner from says he has plenty of 'em, his office is about 30 mins away so I' ll just stop by and get one... but he says he is not in the office. No worries I say, I'll get one tomorrow.
The next day he left the office and forgot to leave one.. No worries, I say, I'll get one tomorrow.
The next day he left the office and forgot to leave one.. No worries I say, ... I'll get one tomorrow.
The next day he left the office and forgot to leave one.. No worries I say, ... I'll get one tomorrow.
The next day he left the office and forgot to leave one.. No worries, I say... I'll just get one the first of the week... damn.
Finally got the burner, got my dremel and some Barkeeper's Friend and now I can make my triumphant return, for I am DurhamAppliance.
Dremel in hand, plug in burner and some polish. I figured I'll be in an out in less than 20 minutes but the slot I cut in the screw with the dremel did not work... it always has in the past... but the screw head was just too soft. No worries I say, I got me a drill.
I drilled through that screw in no time and the burner came loose, for I am DurhamAppliance.
Easy replacement for sure until i notice the original burner did not have male connectors like the replacement. It was hard-wired. No worries I say, for I can crimp female hi temp connectors on the wires.
Connectors went on, put the burner in place and cut the power on.... no heat... took the burner down tested the line and got 240...then 120...no worries I say, that switch must be intermittent.
Disassembled the console once again, tested the switch and sure enough it tests bad this time. No worries I say, .. I'll just replace it with a ge generic switch.
Went to my truck, then realized I used my last switch earlier that day. No worries I say, I'll just drive 30 min round trip to my parts supplier and get one.
Triumphantly re-returned again that day, took apart the console like a pro this time, replaced the bad switch and reassembled the console in no time. Turned the power on and the burner sprang to life for apparently the first time in over a year, for I am DurhamAppliance.
Checked the temp of the burner and wouldn't you know it (I bet a dollar to a donut that Sensei Budget already guessed my problem) the simmer and Hi settings were reversed. Damn.. However no worries I say, I'll just order the oem burner from Repairclinic.
The part is available and pretty good price since the 8 inch switch is $56 bucks so the 6 inch has to be pretty cheap. Going to fix it at a good price for the customer for I am DurhamAppliance.
Scrolled down on the price listing and there it was.. the 6 inch burner switch.... $168! Customer will not go through with the repair at that price. No worries I say, I'll call up my local parts house and ask them for a generic switch that is opposite the normal ones they carry.
Got them on the phone and they asked if the "hi" is on the right or the left. Looked at the dial and the "hi" is on the right. Okay they said $14 and it will be in tomorrow. Told the customer the good news and set an appointment for my third triumphant return early next week, for I am DurhamAppliance.
I had time to stop by my office before the next appointment. As I. walked in I noticed one of our stoves for sale. It had the "hi" on the right but the temps were written on the stove not the dial.... if hi is on the right and marked on the stove, you turn the button to the right but if "hi" is written on the right side on the dial itself, you turn the dial to the left! Damn I gave the wrong info to the parts house and the day's order deadline is fast approaching.
I couldn't get the salesperson who I talked with earlier on the phone... i guess calls were pouring in since it is the end of the day... so I drove there. Made it... out of breath I shouted "change the switch to the other way! " By this time the manager walks by and I explained it all to him. And guess what he said?... yep, you guessed it.... "No worries!"..... For they knew what I meant. (man I love D&L parts)
As I left the store, I pumped my fist in the air. Happy that something finally went right. It had to, for I am DurhamAppliance. But there are some days I wished I was someone else.
So, I was working on a Frigidaire freezer yesterday. Lots of condensation on the ceiling and near the door. Everything looked okay, initially. Customers say the door is always locked to keep the kids out. Diagnostics showed no problem. No defrost, defrost drainage nor light fixture issues. The customers weren't home so I made this video and emailed it to them.
Yeah, I forgot the fan was still running, so stop laughing!
Anyhow, the repair inspired me to finish writing a song I had on the back burner...
LOOSE SEAL ( ie Kenny Rogers singing to his too warm fridge)
You picked a fine time
To have a loose seal
Four crying children
'Cause they can't have their meal
I tried to fix you last time
The wife says "not this time! "
Soon a repairman's large bill
You picked a fine time
To have a loose seal.
Here I am on Memorial day riding shotgun going to Virginia to visit in laws About 5 hour ride, round trip. Wife wants to drive so I'm chillin. Brought my tablet, turn my phone's hotspot on thought I'd get some quality time on Appliantology. I brought everything I need. Or so I thought. I forgot my eyeglasses.. damn.
I feel like Burgess Merideth in this twilight zone scene... wanted to end it all at first (i guess he was going to visit in laws as well) but found reprieve, a way to escape.... but then.... damn!