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Live Appliance Repair Training Webinars for STA Students

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man in Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog, 22 November 2015 · 67 views
STA, training, webinar

Posted Image


You already know that the Samurai Tech Academy provides superior technical training for appliance repair professionals. And now, just when you thought it couldn’t get any better, we’ve gone and cranked it up to 11 by offering free weekly live appliance repair training webinars for enrolled students starting this coming Monday!


Think of the webinars like Office Hours where students can drop by for extra instruction and ask questions about their course work.


Samurai's regular Office Hours are every Monday from 7:00 pm to 8:00 pm Eastern Time (adjust your time zone accordingly). The duration of the sessions varies according to attendance and questions but they always end at 8:00 pm. The topic of the webinars will also vary from week to week but will be announced here. Note that you’ll need to be logged in at MasterSamuraiTech.com and enrolled in the correct course in order to se the connection details.


Samurai's Office Hours page: http://mastersamurai...ining-webinars/


The importance of high efficiency soaps in modern washers

Posted by TheApplianceTechnician in TheApplianceTechnician's Blog, 27 August 2015 · 547 views
he soap, soap, detergent, suds and 2 more...

So I’ve been reading lately and see there is a lot of mis information floating around the web on the use of standard vs high efficiency soaps in modern washers. I’ve seen articles stating that the phosphates are the only thing missing from the soaps and they are fine to use to others saying that the only difference is they are less sudsing and the suds can interfere with the movement of the clothing inside of the washer. Then there’s the absolutely incorrect idea that you can use less regular detergent as well and it will serve the same purpose.


While it is true that they are low sudsing it has more to do with the water tension and the ability of the water to pass through the fabrics to remove the crud. After this crud is removed the detergents job is to suspend said crud in the water to be drained away via the drain pump, in the process not letting them redeposit on the clean clothes. The phosphates have been removed because of algae blooms, nothing to do with the washer. This was more of a problem with dishwasher detergent, not clothes washers. Remember the calls of "My dishwasher doesn't wash as well as it used to" a few years ago?


There is a chemical difference in the soaps being made today. From my less than basic understanding of chemistry I get that soaps are traditionally lye based where detergents are formulated chemicals. High efficiency is made to be able to suspend dirt, dye, oils and all the crap in your dirty clothes in low volumes of water where traditional soaps will not work because they require a high volume of water to work. These new machines are generally using 12 gallons of water where the old types would be around 56. That’s a pretty big difference.


Something that is extremely important in selecting your soap is to be 100% sure that it is real high efficiency soap. I’ve been seeing soaps with the he logo on them that in the fine print say “safe for all machines, including he” and I think this is a downright dirty lye. (See what I did there?) Although it may not be lye based it’s still not real high efficiency and a bearing burner. A recent tour of my local walgreens showed me that an estimated 80% of the detergents there were labeled "safe for all machines".


There are a couple of things that are being observed in the field regarding the use of high efficiency vs conventional soaps.
1. Non high efficiency soap in he machines will cause you problems
2. Using the wrong amount of detergent in he machines will cause you problems


We have all seen multiple problems arise from people using standard soap in their high efficiency washers. This is what I've noticed.


The first and most obvious is how the suds are damaging to the drain pumps. Excessive suds in the drain pump can make it run longer than it needs to run and severely shorten the already short life span that these overpriced Chinese motors are shipped with. The machines can think they still have water in them because the suds interfere with the drain process and can also trigger the water level sensing devises making the pumps run even though the washer has fully drained. This overheats the drain pump and essentially damages it a little every time that happens.


Second are the expedited failures of washer bearings, both on the front load models and on the newer top load agitator-less and fake agitator washers. From experience I’ve seen front loads last for 12 years with moderate use using the correct detergents. I’ve also seen front loads last for 5 years with low use using regular soaps. In the short lived cases they were all using regular soaps or the stuff labeled “safe for all machines including he”. Over the last year I’ve seen multiple top load whirlpool built VMW's and at least one LG with gear cases needing replacement because the bearings have failed. This starts out with a noisy spin and eventually an “out of balance” code. The out of balance will not go away no matter how much redistributing of the load you try to do once it gets bad enough. Some of these were only 2 years old.


Slime, sludge, mold and gookus build up is another issue. Although all of these front load washers are prone to having a mold forming around the tub boot, slime will form on the outside of the inner tub and inside of the outer tub using non high efficiency soap. Using too much soap seems to make it worse. This is what causes the washers to smell like a high school football team locker room. It seems that this problem is getting better with the use of the correct detergents and I personally think the detergents have gotten better since inception but you have to use the correct soap and the correct amount. You can use the clean washer cycle with affresh every week but it’s not doing that good of a job anyway. It’s more of a “way to maintain it” feature than a clean the washer once it gets the buildup.


The point of this is that non he soaps are both causing us to make money (service calls) and not be able to make money on repairs at the same time. When the machines bearings burning up it's a condemnation on the washer most times. The only exception to the rule I've found is the original cabrio washers. I can change the bearing and the suspension and make decent money from the job, but other than that the vmw's and front loaders parts are too expensive to warrant a repair. In the former case the customer could hesitate to call us again for a repair. All it takes is a "her friend said that we went out and charged them to tell them to get a new washer". Although that's completely reasonable it can be a black eye to us and a deterrent for future calls. Prevention to those who will listen can help to preserve our trade and also help to establish it as a value for making their appliances last longer than their neighbors.


VMW washer stuck in endless cycle mode

Posted by Applianceman97 in applianceman97's Blog, 24 August 2015 · 602 views


I Evernote this from another post:
Run Forever, Turns on By Itself, Continues to run.

Compliant: Customer started a wash, left the house, came back home 5 hours later and washer was still running. Later that night she said that as they were watching tv the washer started up all by itself.


This washer was stuck in the "Endless Test Cycle". Tech Line said that this is used to test the washers before they leave the factory.


Tech Line said that if this was a new washer it would simply mean that someone at the factory forgot to take the control out of the Endless Test Cycle. However, he said that for the past year to year and a half they have been seeing these washers putting themselves into the Endless Test Cycle and the Engineers are stumped as to why this is happening.


To turn Endless Test Cycle On or Off:


Put the washer into Diagnostics, turn the dial to the LEFT (counter-clockwise) until the Wash- Rinse- Done lights are on. Push Start. If the washer powers Off you have just taken the washer OUT of Endless Test Cycle. If the washer starts to Fill you have just put the washer INTO Endless Test Cycle.


If the washer powers OFF, unplug for 5 seconds, plug back in and wait 10 seconds, if the washer does NOT start to Fill you have successfully taken the washer out of Endless Test Cycle.


He said that they have also been seeing replacement Control Boards leaving the factory that have not been taken out of Endless Test Cycle. He said that if you replace a Control on these washers to go in and check to make sure that Endless Test Cycle is indeed turned off.


Source: wtw4800bq0 Whirlpool


Installing a Frigidaire inner boot spring , The Afix Method!

Posted by DurhamAppliance in DurhamAppliance's Blog, 19 August 2015 · 471 views

Just have to memorialize this in a blog....


watch and be amazed as Brother Acfixerdude shows us his excellent technique for doing what used-to-be a pita repair...


take it away Bro Afix.........




Source: Installing Frigidaire inner boot spring (just the spring) in 14 seconds.


Dryer dry time and 240/120VAC

Posted by MicaBay in MicaBay's Semi Knowlegable Blog, 13 August 2015 · 574 views

Today's customer was complaint: Dryer taking too long to dry.
Attached Image
Here in the states, our homes are typically wired for 240/120VAC. Some are 208/120VAC systems but that is for another day/story.
The heater in this Samsung Dryer is 9.5 ohms.
Pictured above, the dryer was found hooked up incorrectly, with L1 and Neutral being hooked up backwards when the movers installed the new dryer cord. Which means the heater element was only getting 120 Volts rather than 240 Volts as it was designed.


What does this mean for our poor drying complain? The heater in this Samsung Dryer is 9.5 ohms. The heater was supplied with 120 VAC (incorrectly).
9.5 ohms @ 120VAC =1516 Watts.
Now if the dryer was hooked up correctly, Attached Image the heater would be getting 240 VAC.
9.5 ohms @ 240VAC= 6063 Watts. Watts is power output or heat. 1516/6063=.25 or 25% of normal output wattage.....


Dryer taking too long to dry. Her quote when describing the problem: "I have to run the dryer about 4 times to get a fully dry load."


The best part about this story, the manufacture color codes the wires from the dryer to match the dryer cords. Just in case there is any confusion, they have also attached a pretty picture. Attached Image


Bonus Question: What would have happen if you hooked up the cord incorrectly with L2 and N switched?
Attached Image


Old writing class paper/story

Posted by acfixerdude in acfixerdude's Blog, 19 June 2015 · 620 views

It was during the first break of day in the middle of a heat wave when we first received the call. A villager had requested assistance with a situation he could no longer contain. He and his family had been attacked by a once well behaved friend taking residence inside their home. This well-behaved friend had turned into a villainous foe, terrorizing the family by destroying their stockpiles of sustenance when least expected, an action which severely disrupted the family’s daily routine. They called upon us to fend off this rebellious foe and to restore civility back into their home.

So with a brave heart I prepared for impending battle. With my heavy weapons strapped to my side and only experience to guide me, I journeyed to the residence in need. When I arrived I was greeted by the saddened man and his family, begging me to tame the beast that ailed them. As I stepped into the arena of battle a sinister smell caught me off guard. The smell of burning copper singed my nostrils as I made my way towards the beast’s lair. It seemed to be annoyed by my presence and howled in anger. A great battle emerged as the two newly made arch-enemies began their attacks. Though the beast was a respectable foe, I took swift, fearless action and it was quickly and easily defeated. I had tamed the beast back into a domesticated pet, doing only as it was originally intended to do.

In order to prevent such rebellion and travesty in the future, I trained the villager on how to properly discipline and care for the now domesticated beast. I left him with the knowledge and the proper tools to keep his family’s stockpiles of food from ever being destroyed again. The villager and his family were eternally grateful and he practically offered his oldest daughter’s hand in marriage as a token of appreciation. As I left his home victorious, I only hoped he’d pay heed to my instructions.

Was this some sort of animal you ask? I would only tend to describe it as an animal when misbehaving, but no, it was not. Everybody has one of these often friendly devices and the same thing can happen to you and your family if you fail to take notice and learn the necessary information that this young villager learned the hard way. In fact, there are many friendly devices in your home that require tender loving care every so often. If left unattended to for too long it is very possible that they will turn on you and the situation can get very ugly; even uglier than the story I just told you.

So what was it living in this nice family’s home that turned so villainous and destroyed all of their food? It was that which was originally supposed to keep their food safe from spoilage, insects and other hungry animals; their refrigerator. If you’re not careful, it may happen to you too.

So, if your usually domesticated appliances start giving you a fuss and you happen to live in or near the village of Lubbock, TX - head no other place than to LBKappliance.com and summon the brave knight to bring your appliances back to order. If you're elsewhere, go to appliantology.org and The Alliance of Appliantology may be able to help you to kick swift appliance butt!


The Alliance of Appliantology!

Posted by Smashycomman in Smashycomman's Blog, 19 June 2015 · 898 views


The people were happy. They had not a care in the world. They thought their beloved appliances would always behave. They woke up in the morning to the quiet hum of refrigerators, keeping their daily meals nice and fresh. They used washers and dryers to clean clothes to pristine condition. They used the microwaves to heat their food quickly and efficiently. They thought the appliances would always be there for them, always making their lives easier.

.....They thought wrong.

Suddenly, one day, as if from nowhere, the appliances attacked!

The Washer began spewing water all over their beautiful laundry rooms:

The Dryer began spitting fire and smoke everywhere:

Microwaves took to the skies, shocking the citizens in horrible flocks:


Fridges stopped cooling the food, turning it into gookus, and then spewed noxious odors into everyone's faces:



Have no fear, good people! Your heroes are here!


The Alliance of Appliantology

"Fighting atrocious appliances with aptitude!"

This Troop of Techs scour the land, searching for any disobedient appliance, doing battle with them, and turning them back into the good machines they were made to be!

First up, we have the Appliance Technician himself, Walter:


Walter is a monkey. His weapon is a katana, mixed with a flashlight. Good for slashing and scaring off those appliance monsters who are afraid of the light.

Next is Weswayne, or just Wayne:


Wayne is a seahorse, wielding a screwdriver-shooting crossbow. Nothing wrong with a ranged weapon!

Here's Scottthewolf, or more appropriately, Scott the Lion:

Scott The Lion

Scott is smartly using meter leads, one of a tech's most powerful tools, he's using them as axes, but I guess that gets the job done!

Here's some guy named Smashycomman, or just Smashy if you're confused on what a "comman" is:


He uses a giant screwdriver as a warhammer. There's a better use for that, kid!

Don't forget about DanInKansas, or maybe just Dan:


Dan is a beaver, who uses a shield and spear with pliers on the end. Stick 'em with the pokey end!

Last, but certainly not least, is our very own DurhamAppliance, who's gonna go by the very serious name of Durham:


Durham is the highest-ranking member of the group so far. Yes, he's a pink unicorn, but don't let that make you think he won't smack yer teeth out with his mages' staff.

Our citizens are saved! With their incredible knowledge of the inner-workings of these dastardly monsters, the Alliance of Appliantology takes them down one-by-one, turning them back into the hard-working and wonderful machines they should be. The citizens are very thankful! The day is saved!

Want to be in the Alliance? Here's one way: BEGIN YOUR TRAINING

Ok, so, I decided to do this after making a "What animal would you be?" thread on the 40-watt club sub-forum. What started as just a dumb question got me thinking about how fun it would be to actually draw these guys as these animals... then one thing lead to another and here we are. This took about 2 months or so. Having a kid makes it so you really don't have much time anymore! Anyway, hope you guys like it!


Tenacity when it does not make sense

Posted by Patricio in Patricio's Blog, 08 June 2015 · 726 views
VMW, Cabrio washer

Sometimes after all the diagnostics it still does not make sense. Case in point.

Worked on an Kenmore style VMW where complaint was dead machine. Initial observation machine just sat there blinking sensing light. Put machine into Error diagnostics where Error code was F7-E5 shifter fault.

Next step put unit into manual diagnostics. Spin & agitate cycle lights blink along with lid lock red light but nothing else happens. Dead machine that blinks at me. performed TEST#3a & 3b tests according to book. Resistance was out of parameters. while I was at it I checked voltages from control board with connectors connected. Correct power coming out of control board so board should be good. Tilted machine back, inspected harness wiring, no breaks found. Replaced shift actuator.

Attached Image

Next step I did was to perform calibration cycle. Calibration cycle would not finish blinking lights again, So I checked parameters at main board everything was good. Put machine into manual diagnostics, Agitate cycle would work in one direction only. Spin cycle would not work, lights blink. OK older machines agitate would only go in one direction during the test cycle. Did not believe this was the case unit only 3 years old.

Flipped machine back again to inspect harness again, nothing out of ordinary. Decided to to a test on the capacitor. Rated 45 microfarads showing only 27 on meter. Determined capacitor out of tolerance also. Replaced capacitor, reentered test mode, Machine agitated both directions in both gentle & heavy agitation. Making head way YES.

Next performed Spin cycle test. got a few revolutions & as basket ramped up speed machine died blinking lights at me again. Locked machine again. What next. Performed UI & tachometer test while I gathered my thoughts reforming strategy what to do next. Can't be lid lock latch. It locks/unlocks at all times in test mode, stays locked & performs agitate mode no problem now. Shifts into spin mode starts to spin then quits & blinks. Have to unplug each time to reset machine.

What do I do know now. Two problems taken care of shift actuator & capacitor. Can it be the control board, don't think so, power in power out, What gives, got to examine wiring & connections more scrupulously which leads to the dreaded wiring continuity checks from one end to the other.

Tilt machine back to wall again Lay on my mat & look & think, should I quit now & be beat, say a little prayer. No I don't give up saying: Posted Image

As I peer at the entrails of this POS called a washing machine I notice a whit object in the bowels of this machine. I reach into this small crevice

Attached Image

And pull this object out slowly as it unravels off the transmission shaft.

Attached Image .

Stand machine up put back into manual diagnostic mode & machine performs like it is off the assembly line.

After performing the diagnostic test, replacing corrupt parts I did not give up & condemn the machine citing to expensive to repair ie. new control board. Other things I did that I have not related but the point is I stuck with it giving my all to getting the problem solved. I hope this article helps to inspire others to be tenacious as possible to get the job done.


How to test motor speeds (RPM)

Posted by tpoindexter in tpoindexter's Blog, 13 May 2015 · 836 views
RPM, speed, How fast

I was talking with another tech this morning about checking RPM. this brought up the subject of strobes. As we were
discussing strobes it occurred to me someone had probably created an app with RPM already. Shazaaam!!! :woot:

Here's a app that will allow you to test RPM on fans. You can also test motor rpm, if, you place a mark on the shaft.

To check fan speed just dial it in till the fan appears to be not moving at all. That'll give you your RPM.
Same with a motor if you mark the shaft. When the mark appears to no longer be moving you've got the RPM.

I'm not really sure if this is the correct use of this Blog thingy, but, bet I'll find out sure enough!! Yeeehaw!!!

Huh... I hope I wasn't the last person on earth to figure this out!


The Anatomy of a Miele dishwasher Waterproof System

Posted by LI-NY Tech in LI-NY Tech's Blog, 30 April 2015 · 1,037 views

Miele produces the best dishwashers on the market today. They are high end machines...very quiet, they wash well and last many years beyond the life span of a lesser quality brand. However, like all machines they do break down. One of the most common failures to occur on a Miele dishwasher is the Water Proof System (WPS). That's that mysterious grey box under your sink. What is that thing?

Posted Image

The WPS is a dual water inlet valve. The redundancy ensures that if one valve fails to close the other will, greatly reducing the chance of flooding your kitchen. That brass part on the left attaches to the house plumbing, the box contains the two solenoids and the gray tube contains the water intake hose, the wiring and outer sleeve. When the electronic calls for water the solenoids open and the water flows through the intake hose and into the dishwasher.

The outer sleeve acts a protection against leaks. If the solenoids leak the water will flow along the outer sleeve and into the drip tray in the base of the dishwasher. When enough water accumulates the float switch will be activated and the water intake will stop. The drain pump will also be activated until the machine is unplugged or the water is no longer present in the drip tray.

Posted Image

The inlet to the WPS contains a filter and a restrictor. The filter stops large debris from entering the system and the restrictor ensures correct water pressure. The filters often get clogged and can be easily cleaned.

Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

The Miele dishwasher service manual states:

The WaterProof System (WPS) consists of a number of interdependent safety features to provide protection against water leakage.
1. Protection against solenoid valve leakage: Each water intake is controlled by an inlet valve. If this valve cannot close properly due to some defect or blockage by a foreign object, a second inlet valve ensures that the water supply is shut off.
2. Protection against water intake hose leakage: If a leakage occurs, water flows along an outer hose sleeve surrounding the intake hose to the drip pan. Here a float switch then acts to switch off a microswitch which closes the inlet valves to cut off the water supply.

3. Protection against dishwasher overflow: If some defect has caused the water level in the appliance to rise so that it overflows into the drip pan, and the water quantity sensor has also failed, the float switch is activated. This switches off a microswitch which closes the inlet valves to cut off the water supply. At the same time the drain pump is activated.
4. Protection against drain pump failure or blocked drain path: In this case the water level in the appliance rises until it overflows into the drip pan where the float switch is activated. This switches off a microswitch which closes the inlet valves to cut off the water supply.

Thanks for reading.
RD Appliance Service, Corp.
RD Appliance Blog


Coconut Lime Chicken Soup

Posted by Mrs. Samurai in Mrs. Samurai's Kitchen, 10 November 2013 · 1,574 views

Here's a Thai-inspired chicken soup that is easy to make and bursting with flavor! It's healthy comfort food with an Asian twist.

Posted Image
  • 2 tablespoons coconut oil, ghee, or butter
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 1-2 pounds uncooked chicken breast, diced
  • 1 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped fine
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced, divided
  • 1 quart chicken broth (I use either homemade or a box of low sodium, no added MSG.)
  • 1 can coconut milk (look for this in the Asian/Thai section of the grocery store. I prefer regular, not "lite".)
  • 1 lime, juiced, divided
  • ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes
  • 4 scallions, chopped
  • ½ bunch cilantro, chopped
  • salt, to taste
  • optional: Thai fish sauce, cooked rice

Heat a soup pot over medium high heat, then add the coconut oil. Saute the onions with a little salt for a few minutes, then add the chicken chunks with a little more salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until chicken is just cooked through. Add the ginger and half of the garlic towards the end of this.

Stir in the broth and bring to a boil, then stir in the coconut milk, half of the lime juice, and the red pepper flakes. Reduce the heat to low and simmer covered for at least 15 minutes (longer is fine, too).

Turn off the heat, and add salt to taste (depends on the amount in your chicken broth). Stir in the rest of the garlic, the scallions, and most of the cilantro (leave a little aside for topping individual bowls). Add the rest of the lime juice if desired. Cover and let sit off-heat for 5 to 10 minutes, then serve.

Great served over rice. Add a few drops of fish sauce to your serving to knock the flavor out of the park!


LG Melted Light Assembly

Posted by appl.tech.29501 in appl.tech.29501's Blog, 22 April 2012 · 2,502 views


From: Amana NED7200TW Dryer no heat, problem with cycling thermostat?

Posted by kdog in kdog's Blog, 16 March 2012 · 3,927 views

[Yes, I did reset the breaker and checked the voltages. Here's the wiring diagram:
Posted Image

Source: Amana NED7200TW Dryer no heat, problem with cycling thermostat?

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