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The Old Skool method of doing service calls was to go out on the call and pray to the pot bellied Buddha that the tech sheet was still hidden somewhere on the appliance. The plan being that, if the tech sheet was still there, you could stare at the lines and squiggles long enough to convince the customer you had reached a definitive and scientific conclusion about the problem.
My friends, I'm here to tell you that the Internet has made this Monkey Boy way of doing bidness obso-frikkin-lete! With powerful information tools, like Appliantology, at your fingertips, there's no need to rely on the pot bellied Buddha leaving the tech sheet for you. This webinar will teach you a whole new way of doing bidness using Appliantology as your trusty information tool, every bit as valuable as your Bosch driver or Princeton Tec headlamp, to increase your First Call Completes and profitability.
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I've run into a few of these over the years from multiple model numbers and would like to share what I've found with the rest of you guys so hopefully you don't have to learn the hard way. Symptom is that the freezer will not get cold and they may tell you about a hiss even. You get there and put your gauges on it and find it's drawing a suction on the process tube. So after pressure testing the system you find there's a leak in the hot gas loop.
Well here's where it turns into a mess. That hole in the gas line is allowing water to get into the sealed system and you'll never get it out. The only solution is a total sealed system replacement and a really good flush out of the remaining lines using either rx11 or some sort of refrigeration system flush to flush both the condenser and the mullion heater lines to get everything out, followed by nitrogen to flush out the flush.
Here's the last one I ran into, somewhat start to finish along with follow up pictures of the evaporator and compressor cut open to reveal the water that gets sucked into the system and what the water will do to the internals of the compressor. Some are just pictures of brazes. Sometimes I'll take a pic of the backside to look at them, sometimes I think they're pretty, and sometimes I'll just document it to look at 10 years from now. Anyway I left the album raw, meaning if I took a pic that wasn't fuzzy I put it in the album. This job took me 5 1/2 hours to finish and I did it in place not removing the refrigerator from the cabinet.
Well ladies and gents. Sorry I have been MIA for a while. Life has been crazy with service calls and my new technician. Also had our first baby (technician in training) . It's been an amazing experience. I am loving every second of it. It has been tough through all the changes which is why i have been absent from here for a bit. But i'm BACK! I hope the Samurai and Durham have been holding the fort down and not letting you guys get away with too much! hahaha.
Just have to memorialize this in a blog....
watch and be amazed as Brother Acfixerdude shows us his excellent technique for doing what used-to-be a pita repair...
take it away Bro Afix.........
Today's customer was complaint: Dryer taking too long to dry.
Here in the states, our homes are typically wired for 240/120VAC. Some are 208/120VAC systems but that is for another day/story.
The heater in this Samsung Dryer is 9.5 ohms.
Pictured above, the dryer was found hooked up incorrectly, with L1 and Neutral being hooked up backwards when the movers installed the new dryer cord. Which means the heater element was only getting 120 Volts rather than 240 Volts as it was designed.
What does this mean for our poor drying complain? The heater in this Samsung Dryer is 9.5 ohms. The heater was supplied with 120 VAC (incorrectly).
9.5 ohms @ 120VAC =1516 Watts.
Now if the dryer was hooked up correctly, the heater would be getting 240 VAC.
9.5 ohms @ 240VAC= 6063 Watts. Watts is power output or heat. 1516/6063=.25 or 25% of normal output wattage.....
Dryer taking too long to dry. Her quote when describing the problem: "I have to run the dryer about 4 times to get a fully dry load."
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LONG AGO IN A DISTANT LAND..
The people were happy. They had not a care in the world. They thought their beloved appliances would always behave. They woke up in the morning to the quiet hum of refrigerators, keeping their daily meals nice and fresh. They used washers and dryers to clean clothes to pristine condition. They used the microwaves to heat their food quickly and efficiently. They thought the appliances would always be there for them, always making their lives easier.
.....They thought wrong.
Suddenly, one day, as if from nowhere, the appliances attacked!
The Washer began spewing water all over their beautiful laundry rooms:
The Dryer began spitting fire and smoke everywhere:
Microwaves took to the skies, shocking the citizens in horrible flocks:
Fridges stopped cooling the food, turning it into gookus, and then spewed noxious odors into everyone's faces:
"OH THE HUMANITY! IS THERE NO ONE TO SAVE US?! IS THERE NO ONE WITH THE SKILL TO STOP THESE EVIL MACHINES?!", the citizens cried!
Have no fear, good people! Your heroes are here!
The Alliance of Appliantology
"Fighting atrocious appliances with aptitude!"
This Troop of Techs scour the land, searching for any disobedient appliance, doing battle with them, and turning them back into the good machines they were made to be!
First up, we have the Appliance Technician himself, Walter:
Walter is a monkey. His weapon is a katana, mixed with a flashlight. Good for slashing and scaring off those appliance monsters who are afraid of the light.
Next is Weswayne, or just Wayne:
Wayne is a seahorse, wielding a screwdriver-shooting crossbow. Nothing wrong with a ranged weapon!
Here's Scottthewolf, or more appropriately, Scott the Lion:
Scott is smartly using meter leads, one of a tech's most powerful tools, he's using them as axes, but I guess that gets the job done!
Here's some guy named Smashycomman, or just Smashy if you're confused on what a "comman" is:
He uses a giant screwdriver as a warhammer. There's a better use for that, kid!
Don't forget about DanInKansas, or maybe just Dan:
Dan is a beaver, who uses a shield and spear with pliers on the end. Stick 'em with the pokey end!
Last, but certainly not least, is our very own DurhamAppliance, who's gonna go by the very serious name of Durham:
Durham is the highest-ranking member of the group so far. Yes, he's a pink unicorn, but don't let that make you think he won't smack yer teeth out with his mages' staff.
Our citizens are saved! With their incredible knowledge of the inner-workings of these dastardly monsters, the Alliance of Appliantology takes them down one-by-one, turning them back into the hard-working and wonderful machines they should be. The citizens are very thankful! The day is saved!
Want to be in the Alliance? Here's one way:BEGIN YOUR TRAINING
Ok, so, I decided to do this after making a "What animal would you be?" thread on the 40-watt club sub-forum. What started as just a dumb question got me thinking about how fun it would be to actually draw these guys as these animals... then one thing lead to another and here we are. This took about 2 months or so. Having a kid makes it so you really don't have much time anymore! Anyway, hope you guys like it!
Sometimes after all the diagnostics it still does not make sense. Case in point.
Worked on an Kenmore style VMW where complaint was dead machine. Initial observation machine just sat there blinking sensing light. Put machine into Error diagnostics where Error code was F7-E5 shifter fault.
Next step put unit into manual diagnostics. Spin & agitate cycle lights blink along with lid lock red light but nothing else happens. Dead machine that blinks at me. performed TEST#3a & 3b tests according to book. Resistance was out of parameters. while I was at it I checked voltages from control board with connectors connected. Correct power coming out of control board so board should be good. Tilted machine back, inspected harness wiring, no breaks found. Replaced shift actuator.
Next step I did was to perform calibration cycle. Calibration cycle would not finish blinking lights again, So I checked parameters at main board everything was good. Put machine into manual diagnostics, Agitate cycle would work in one direction only. Spin cycle would not work, lights blink. OK older machines agitate would only go in one direction during the test cycle. Did not believe this was the case unit only 3 years old.
Flipped machine back again to inspect harness again, nothing out of ordinary. Decided to to a test on the capacitor. Rated 45 microfarads showing only 27 on meter. Determined capacitor out of tolerance also. Replaced capacitor, reentered test mode, Machine agitated both directions in both gentle & heavy agitation. Making head way YES.
Next performed Spin cycle test. got a few revolutions & as basket ramped up speed machine died blinking lights at me again. Locked machine again. What next. Performed UI & tachometer test while I gathered my thoughts reforming strategy what to do next. Can't be lid lock latch. It locks/unlocks at all times in test mode, stays locked & performs agitate mode no problem now. Shifts into spin mode starts to spin then quits & blinks. Have to unplug each time to reset machine.
What do I do know now. Two problems taken care of shift actuator & capacitor. Can it be the control board, don't think so, power in power out, What gives, got to examine wiring & connections more scrupulously which leads to the dreaded wiring continuity checks from one end to the other.
Tilt machine back to wall again Lay on my mat & look & think, should I quit now & be beat, say a little prayer. No I don't give up saying:
As I peer at the entrails of this POS called a washing machine I notice a whit object in the bowels of this machine. I reach into this small crevice
And pull this object out slowly as it unravels off the transmission shaft.
Stand machine up put back into manual diagnostic mode & machine performs like it is off the assembly line.
After performing the diagnostic test, replacing corrupt parts I did not give up & condemn the machine citing to expensive to repair ie. new control board. Other things I did that I have not related but the point is I stuck with it giving my all to getting the problem solved. I hope this article helps to inspire others to be tenacious as possible to get the job done.
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I was talking with another tech this morning about checking RPM. this brought up the subject of strobes. As we were
discussing strobes it occurred to me someone had probably created an app with RPM already. Shazaaam!!!
Here's a app that will allow you to test RPM on fans. You can also test motor rpm, if, you place a mark on the shaft.
To check fan speed just dial it in till the fan appears to be not moving at all. That'll give you your RPM.
Same with a motor if you mark the shaft. When the mark appears to no longer be moving you've got the RPM.
I'm not really sure if this is the correct use of this Blog thingy, but, bet I'll find out sure enough!! Yeeehaw!!!
Huh... I hope I wasn't the last person on earth to figure this out!
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Miele produces the best dishwashers on the market today. They are high end machines...very quiet, they wash well and last many years beyond the life span of a lesser quality brand. However, like all machines they do break down. One of the most common failures to occur on a Miele dishwasher is the Water Proof System (WPS). That's that mysterious grey box under your sink. What is that thing?
The WPS is a dual water inlet valve. The redundancy ensures that if one valve fails to close the other will, greatly reducing the chance of flooding your kitchen. That brass part on the left attaches to the house plumbing, the box contains the two solenoids and the gray tube contains the water intake hose, the wiring and outer sleeve. When the electronic calls for water the solenoids open and the water flows through the intake hose and into the dishwasher.
The outer sleeve acts a protection against leaks. If the solenoids leak the water will flow along the outer sleeve and into the drip tray in the base of the dishwasher. When enough water accumulates the float switch will be activated and the water intake will stop. The drain pump will also be activated until the machine is unplugged or the water is no longer present in the drip tray.
The inlet to the WPS contains a filter and a restrictor. The filter stops large debris from entering the system and the restrictor ensures correct water pressure. The filters often get clogged and can be easily cleaned.
The Miele dishwasher service manual states:
The WaterProof System (WPS) consists of a number of interdependent safety features to provide protection against water leakage.
1. Protection against solenoid valve leakage: Each water intake is controlled by an inlet valve. If this valve cannot close properly due to some defect or blockage by a foreign object, a second inlet valve ensures that the water supply is shut off.
2. Protection against water intake hose leakage: If a leakage occurs, water flows along an outer hose sleeve surrounding the intake hose to the drip pan. Here a float switch then acts to switch off a microswitch which closes the inlet valves to cut off the water supply.
3. Protection against dishwasher overflow: If some defect has caused the water level in the appliance to rise so that it overflows into the drip pan, and the water quantity sensor has also failed, the float switch is activated. This switches off a microswitch which closes the inlet valves to cut off the water supply. At the same time the drain pump is activated.
4. Protection against drain pump failure or blocked drain path: In this case the water level in the appliance rises until it overflows into the drip pan where the float switch is activated. This switches off a microswitch which closes the inlet valves to cut off the water supply.
Thanks for reading.
RD Appliance Service, Corp.
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It was during the first break of day in the middle of a heat wave when we first received the call. A villager had requested assistance with a situation he could no longer contain. He and his family had been attacked by a once well behaved friend taking residence inside their home. This well-behaved friend had turned into a villainous foe, terrorizing the family by destroying their stockpiles of sustenance when least expected, an action which severely disrupted the family’s daily routine. They called upon us to fend off this rebellious foe and to restore civility back into their home.
So with a brave heart I prepared for impending battle. With my heavy weapons strapped to my side and only experience to guide me, I journeyed to the residence in need. When I arrived I was greeted by the saddened man and his family, begging me to tame the beast that ailed them. As I stepped into the arena of battle a sinister smell caught me off guard. The smell of burning copper singed my nostrils as I made my way towards the beast’s lair. It seemed to be annoyed by my presence and howled in anger. A great battle emerged as the two newly made arch-enemies began their attacks. Though the beast was a respectable foe, I took swift, fearless action and it was quickly and easily defeated. I had tamed the beast back into a domesticated pet, doing only as it was originally intended to do.
In order to prevent such rebellion and travesty in the future, I trained the villager on how to properly discipline and care for the now domesticated beast. I left him with the knowledge and the proper tools to keep his family’s stockpiles of food from ever being destroyed again. The villager and his family were eternally grateful and he practically offered his oldest daughter’s hand in marriage as a token of appreciation. As I left his home victorious, I only hoped he’d pay heed to my instructions.
Was this some sort of animal you ask? I would only tend to describe it as an animal when misbehaving, but no, it was not. Everybody has one of these often friendly devices and the same thing can happen to you and your family if you fail to take notice and learn the necessary information that this young villager learned the hard way. In fact, there are many friendly devices in your home that require tender loving care every so often. If left unattended to for too long it is very possible that they will turn on you and the situation can get very ugly; even uglier than the story I just told you.
So what was it living in this nice family’s home that turned so villainous and destroyed all of their food? It was that which was originally supposed to keep their food safe from spoilage, insects and other hungry animals; their refrigerator. If you’re not careful, it may happen to you too.
So, if your usually domesticated appliances start giving you a fuss and you happen to live in or near the village of Lubbock, TX - head no other place than to LBKappliance.com and summon the brave knight to bring your appliances back to order. If you're elsewhere, go to appliantology.org and The Alliance of Appliantology may be able to help you to kick swift appliance butt!
Here's a Thai-inspired chicken soup that is easy to make and bursting with flavor! It's healthy comfort food with an Asian twist.
- 2 tablespoons coconut oil, ghee, or butter
- 1 onion, chopped
- 1-2 pounds uncooked chicken breast, diced
- 1 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped fine
- 4 cloves garlic, minced, divided
- 1 quart chicken broth (I use either homemade or a box of low sodium, no added MSG.)
- 1 can coconut milk (look for this in the Asian/Thai section of the grocery store. I prefer regular, not "lite".)
- 1 lime, juiced, divided
- ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes
- 4 scallions, chopped
- ½ bunch cilantro, chopped
- salt, to taste
- optional: Thai fish sauce, cooked rice
Heat a soup pot over medium high heat, then add the coconut oil. Saute the onions with a little salt for a few minutes, then add the chicken chunks with a little more salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until chicken is just cooked through. Add the ginger and half of the garlic towards the end of this.
Stir in the broth and bring to a boil, then stir in the coconut milk, half of the lime juice, and the red pepper flakes. Reduce the heat to low and simmer covered for at least 15 minutes (longer is fine, too).
Turn off the heat, and add salt to taste (depends on the amount in your chicken broth). Stir in the rest of the garlic, the scallions, and most of the cilantro (leave a little aside for topping individual bowls). Add the rest of the lime juice if desired. Cover and let sit off-heat for 5 to 10 minutes, then serve.
Great served over rice. Add a few drops of fish sauce to your serving to knock the flavor out of the park!
- 2 tablespoons coconut oil, ghee, or butter
[Yes, I did reset the breaker and checked the voltages. Here's the wiring diagram: