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	<title>The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums</title>
	<description>Get free DIY appliance repair help at The Samurai School of Appliantology, www.appliantology.org</description>
	<link>http://appliantology.org</link>
	<pubDate>Thu, 23 Feb 2012 05:36:25 +0000</pubDate>
	<ttl>90</ttl>
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		<title>GE Nautilus filling and draining at the same time. GSC3430F00WW</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36668-ge-nautilus-filling-and-draining-at-the-same-time-gsc3430f00ww/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hello,   I have a GE Nautilus model number GSC3430F00WW.  It is a portable apartment unit.  A little over a week ago, the timer went out.  The pump was leaking also (I tried to replace the o-ring by the solenoid where it was leaking, but it still leaked.)  I decided to replace both at the same time.  Now the dishwasher fills just fine on the initial fill, but after the solenoid turns on to drain, it stays open.  So the next cycle when it is filling, the machine just drains back into the sink.<br />
<br />
I thought maybe I had a defective timer, so I reinstalled my old one and manually moved it through the positions and it did the same thing.  So, I thought maybe it was the new solenoid itself.  Since the old one was working just fine (the pump was what was leaking) I switched them out.  It had the same problem.<br />
<br />
I am not sure what happened between then and now and how this problem started, but I am wondering what i am not checking.  What could be a solution to this problem?  Once the Solenoid is open, even directly unplugging it during the cycle (from under the machine) does not close it. The way I can get it to close is by unlatching the machine and re-latching it to go through the next cycle.  <br />
<br />
Any help would be greatly appreciated.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Feb 2012 05:36:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36668-ge-nautilus-filling-and-draining-at-the-same-time-gsc3430f00ww/</guid>
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		<title>MAH5500Bww</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36667-mah5500bww/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Service manual request for above model. I have the one for the mah3000 this is the digital display unit<br />
Thanks]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Feb 2012 05:35:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36667-mah5500bww/</guid>
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		<title>Whirlpool Duet front loading washer Model #wfw9200sq00 No Power</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36665-whirlpool-duet-front-loading-washer-model-wfw9200sq00-no-power/</link>
		<description>Machine has been reliable since I bought it in 2007.  Three days ago was doing laundry, no problem.  Next morning went to do laundry and machine had no power, no lights, nada.  Checked power coming into machine from plug, there IS power at outlet.  No tripped circuit breakers, no electrical problems at all in any other area of house.  Had no previous fault codes leading up to this.  Does anyone have any idea what the problem may be?  Opened up washer, took top off, inspected harness.  Everything looks nice and clean, no visual problems, all connections appear tight.  Opened up back of machine, looked below did not see any visual problems.  What can I do next?  Laundry is beginning to back up, three kiddos producing stinky laundry, need to get this bad boy fixed quick.</description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Feb 2012 03:40:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36665-whirlpool-duet-front-loading-washer-model-wfw9200sq00-no-power/</guid>
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		<title>New Appliance Service Manual added: Whirlpool EE3J40RD045V Electric Water Heater Operating Manual</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36664-new-appliance-service-manual-added-whirlpool-ee3j40rd045v-electric-water-heater-operating-manual/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<strong class='bbc'>File Name</strong>: Whirlpool EE3J40RD045V Electric Water Heater Operating Manual<br />
<strong class='bbc'>File Submitter</strong>: <a href='http://appliantology.org/user/33083-djgiesbrecht/' class='bbc_url' title=''>djgiesbrecht</a><br />
<strong class='bbc'>File Submitted</strong>: 22 Feb 2012<br />
<strong class='bbc'>File Category</strong>: <a href='http://appliantology.org/files/category/3-appliance-repair-manual-pot-luck-supper/' class='bbc_url' title=''>Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper</a><br />
<br />
Installation/User Manual for Whirlpool Electric Water Heater, circa 2005<br />
<br />
<a href='http://appliantology.org/files/file/103-whirlpool-ee3j40rd045v-electric-water-heater-operating-manual/' class='bbc_url' title=''>Click here to download this file</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Feb 2012 03:14:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36664-new-appliance-service-manual-added-whirlpool-ee3j40rd045v-electric-water-heater-operating-manual/</guid>
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		<title><![CDATA[GE GLD4100L00WW Dishwasher &#34;not running at all&#34;  :-(]]></title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36663-ge-gld4100l00ww-dishwasher-not-running-at-all/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[ge GLD4100L00WW Dishwasher – Dishwasher won't run – Rebooted controls by turning off the power for 30 seconds and then turning the power back on – two light illuminate on control panel (Normal Wash & Heated Dry) but none of the buttons work and the lights go out again after 2 or 3 minutes.    I suspect a circuit board needs replacing but I will buy a new non-GE product befor i have a service person visit my home for this one .]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Feb 2012 02:30:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36663-ge-gld4100l00ww-dishwasher-not-running-at-all/</guid>
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		<title>Bosch DW # SHU9915UC/U11 Stuck on drain</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36662-bosch-dw-shu9915ucu11-stuck-on-drain/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I got a call for this bosch dw that "wouldn't wash the dishes" when I tried to run it, it would only drain. No matter what cyle you select it just drains. the drain pump will run as long as you let it. I took the sump apart to make sure the pump was actually working, it was. And then i put some water in it to see if would actually drain and it did. If it were an older model I would have assumed that the timer was going bad so I took the board out to hopefully see some visible damge. I couldn't find any. I don't think there is anything else in that circuit so I assumed the board must be bad and ordered one. I put the new one in this morning and the same thing happened. I decided to fill the tub with as much water as it would have if it were doing a load. When I turned it back on it started spraying and draining at the same time until the water was gone and then it continued draining as before.<br />
I'm stumped. Hopefully someone will have some good info for me.<br />
Thanks!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Feb 2012 01:18:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36662-bosch-dw-shu9915ucu11-stuck-on-drain/</guid>
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		<title>maytag dryer MDG9206AWW with NO HEAT</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36661-maytag-dryer-mdg9206aww-with-no-heat/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[replaces both coils, but still no heat. Runs but does not ignite.<br />
<br />
Any ideas ????<br />
<br />
Thank   TOm]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Feb 2012 00:45:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36661-maytag-dryer-mdg9206aww-with-no-heat/</guid>
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		<title>Top Load Washer Flooding/Mod#ATW4475XQO</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36660-top-load-washer-floodingmodatw4475xqo/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I have a commercial client that called me today and informed me that the washer flooded again. This Appliance is in a Mental Hospital so it gets alot of use. Anyway I originally replaced the pressure switch on 2-01-2012. This switch has two pressure switches that come as an assembly. Any information on this appliance would be helpful whether it was recalled or could the chip in the switch just be bad out of the box. Lastly inlet valves closed fine when I originally tested the Washer upon repairing it. I let it fill at least 5 times going thru all the water levels.<br />
<br />
Model# ATW4475XQO<br />
Serial# C12141803]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 23:51:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36660-top-load-washer-floodingmodatw4475xqo/</guid>
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		<title><![CDATA[Frigidaire FEX831FS2 timer won't advance]]></title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36659-frigidaire-fex831fs2-timer-wont-advance/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Timer won't advance but will drain and spin when set to that cycle.  I put a new timer in it and that did not solve the problem.  Not sure what else could affect the timers advancement. Hope you can help.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 23:43:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36659-frigidaire-fex831fs2-timer-wont-advance/</guid>
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		<title><![CDATA[Whirlpool Washer won't spin, makes terrible noise]]></title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36658-whirlpool-washer-wont-spin-makes-terrible-noise/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I would include the model number but must wait for somebody to help me move the thing because it's on the back.  I can see with a flashlight that this is a direct drive washer.  It sounded fine until it hit high spin...it made a loud squealing noise and now if you put it on high spin (since the clothes are dripping wet) it makes a nasty grinding noise.  It did drain, and I haven't smelled the laundry yet, but am fairly sure it did wash and rinse, as the clothes aren't soapy.  Looking at FAQs....I see most symptoms fit needing a new drive coupler--would this be the general consensus?  The washing machine is almost 12 years old now and has only ever needed a new lid switch, so if I can fix it for fairly cheap, I'd like to.<br />
<br />
If you think the problem is worse than that......we'll have a service and go look for a replacement, but I'm afraid the equally aged dryer will be lonely.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 23:18:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36658-whirlpool-washer-wont-spin-makes-terrible-noise/</guid>
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		<title>Whirlpool oven  RF364PXPQ not heating properly</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36657-whirlpool-oven-rf364pxpq-not-heating-properly/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I have a Whirlpool self cleaning oven, Model RF364PXPQ. I bought it with the house, have no idea how old it is.<br />
It suddenly stopped heating properly. I got a thermometer and it seemed to be okay, just slow to heat up. I googled the issue and heard the bake element might be damaged. Sure enough, there was a small spot. I replaced it and thought - viola!  Wrong. It's still heating very slowly. Any ideas? Help?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 23:15:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36657-whirlpool-oven-rf364pxpq-not-heating-properly/</guid>
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		<title><![CDATA[Kenmore HE2 110.46462501 Washer Won't start the cycle]]></title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36656-kenmore-he2-11046462501-washer-wont-start-the-cycle/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[OK I have 2.5 year old Kenmore HE2 washer that is not working (Will not start the cycle). I have done enough research to run the diagnostics and pull the codes. One was for the temp. sensor (F24) , and the other was for the door latch (F22). I have done the multimeter tests found in the service manual. I realize this is a Whirlpool Duet model and used 8178558.pdf manual. I ran into the same issues as did others where the test shown for the door latch is incorrect in the manual. The center pin is common. You should be testing 1&gt;2 and 2&gt;3 with 60 ohms resistance on each. If you test pin 1&gt;3 you get 120 ohms because you are going across both actuators. I get 60 and 60 if you test it properly per the wire diagram and ignore what the incorrect info in the book says. So the way I see it the latch is fine. It locks and I never get water or anything else after I push start. The temp sensor tests fine. I even went ahead and tested the pressure switch ,dispenser motor and line filter. Everything is testing fine. I think I have a bad CCU and I wanted a second opinion before ordering. Please help, maybe I've forgotten something?<br />
<br />
Scott]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 22:57:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36656-kenmore-he2-11046462501-washer-wont-start-the-cycle/</guid>
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		<title>Viking ED710KW419 Dryer has a burning smell</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36655-viking-ed710kw419-dryer-has-a-burning-smell/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[The last load of laundry I did had a potent burning smell to it. I've taken my dryer apart it's not a lint issue the dryer had minimal build up. I have noticed 2 other problems that might have caused the smell that I could use help with.<br />
<br />
For those not familiar with Viking it's a department store brand from a now defunct department store in Canada Eaton's for looking at other posts it looks like this dryer is a GE product.<br />
<br />
I've noticed that 1 of the 2 heating coils.. they run in a circle around the back of the dryer through ceramic holes has burned out.<br />
<br />
I also noticed one of the pads at the front of the dryer that the drum rests on is looking chewed up.<br />
<br />
would either of these cause this smell?<br />
<br />
and would someone be able to suggest a part number so I can get a new heating coil to replace the burned out one regardless if it's causing the smell or not.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 22:43:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36655-viking-ed710kw419-dryer-has-a-burning-smell/</guid>
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		<title>GE sxs model GSS20IEMBWW</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36654-ge-sxs-model-gss20iembww/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Need tech sheet for this model!!! Frig and freezer work fine for two weeks the both sides don't stay at proper temps!! Good frost pattern no ice built up! Frig has had repairs in past including defrost tstat , defrost heaters , and I believe that's it ! How do I test thermistors and mother brd?<br />
<br />
&gt; <span style='font-family: courier new,courier,monospace'>GSS<strong class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 18px;'>201</span></strong>EMBWW</span><br />
&gt; maybe<br />
&gt; <span style='font-family: courier new,courier,monospace'>GSS<strong class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 18px;'>20I</span></strong>EMBWW</span><br />
&gt; topic model number corrected]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 22:19:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36654-ge-sxs-model-gss20iembww/</guid>
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		<title>Asko 10505 door seal question</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36653-asko-10505-door-seal-question/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi there folks.  I have kept our ancient Asko 10505 going all these years (since '97) through many parts transfusions and much help from this forum.  The latest problem was a small leak from the bottom of the door opening.  So I removed the old  "door seal" which seemed to have cracked - hope that's the problem, and purchased a new one:<br />
<a href='http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Door-Seal/33303048/762072?modelNumber=10505' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='external'>http://www.repaircli...delNumber=10505</a>, Of course, by the time it came, I had disposed of the old one and now I can't seem to get the new one in.<br />
<br />
It's a question of which edge of the seal goes in first.  This seal fits around the door opening in the machine, into the circular space created by an edge of this rubber gasket: <a href='http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Door-Seal/8056351/753892?modelNumber=10505' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='external'>http://www.repaircli...delNumber=10505</a> and the lip of the opening into the washer.  The seal is a circular piece of plain hard plastic strip, almost rectangular when seen edge on, but for a slight lip on one side going all the way around.  If you shove it around the gasket with the lip facing out, it just falls out again.  So, you would think that this lip would have to fit pointing in rather than out, and would then click into place behind the metal ring formed by the edge of the door opening.  But it is absolutely horrendously too tight to make this happen. Sure, maybe I'm just not being forceful enough, but I wanted to be sure before I break it (especially since it was the last one in stock).<br />
<br />
To make this a little clearer, I actually found a page from the Service manual as part of the repairclinic.com image for the entire door assembly.  <a href='http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Large-Part-Image?imgID=655163&amp;locID=2176' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='external'>http://www.repaircli...&#38;locID=2176</a> If you look at figure 3 on the page, the screwdriver is pointing at the part I'm wrestling with.  And the instructions on the page are actually about how to put it in! (along with everything else having to do with the door).  But the images are not clear enough to tell which way the seal is inserted.  So I wondered if anyone had ever done this and could give me some tips.  Thanks!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 22:15:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36653-asko-10505-door-seal-question/</guid>
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		<title>Kenmore, 106.55612400, Refrigerator, No Ice</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36652-kenmore-10655612400-refrigerator-no-ice/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Unit does not make ice. Cools fine. A tech went out on the job and changed the Ice maker twice and throughout multiple visits, he also changed the optics (transmitter and reciever boards). In total spanning multiple visits, this guy changed the ice maker twice and the optics 4 times. He then gave up because he was stumped. I know because he is a colleague of mine.<br />
<br />
I looked at the machine today and I boiled the problem down to the fact that both optics boards have 120V coming into them but the one on the right side (I think that one is called the transmitter) supplies only 89Volts to the ice maker. So naturally Im thinking the ice maker won't do anything with just 89 volts. So I changed the optics yet again and observed the exact same results as before. Is this weird or what? Still 89 Volts. When I open the freezer door and push the optics blocker in with my hand so that the optics can talk to each other, I get a solid red light which according to the tech sheet that comes with the optics indicates that the optics are working properly. Which is strange because I know that can't be since they're only giving 89 volts to the ice maker which has a sticker on it that says 115v60z.<br />
<br />
Some more info, whether the switch on the right hand side optic board is ON or Off I still get 89 volts going to the ice maker. I still tried to short the T and H terminals on the ice maker to see if it'll harvest but it won't. The wiring harness connector of the ice maker only reads 89 volts without the ice maker connected and with the ice maker connected if I take a voltage reading across its L and N terminals, you guessed it, 89 volts.<br />
<br />
Any ideas? Im stumped.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 22:07:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36652-kenmore-10655612400-refrigerator-no-ice/</guid>
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		<title>frigidaire d/w #fdr252rbso , centering tool</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36651-frigidaire-dw-fdr252rbso-centering-tool/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[hi . have new motor and motor seals ordered. problem is the service manual says centering tool part #154154801 should be used to center motor to pump and to instal seals, but according to frigidaire the tool is no longer avaible. anyone know what else might work, or can i install parts and hope it doesn't leak?. seams strange they continue to sell the motor and not the tool. thanks for your help.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 21:59:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36651-frigidaire-dw-fdr252rbso-centering-tool/</guid>
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		<title>Kenmore 417.44142400 Washer pump buzzing and stuck at rinse cycle...</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36650-kenmore-41744142400-washer-pump-buzzing-and-stuck-at-rinse-cycle/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I recently acquired a used Kenmore 417.44142400 washer and dryer.  It worked fine for a couple of weeks (though smelly.)  Cleaned it out and ran Tied anti-oxident smell removal stuff.  Suddenly washer gets stuck on what appears to be the rinse part of the cycle.  This will happen in all wash modes.  Machine will fill, do initial agitation, will empty (I believe most of the way.) and will spin, including high speed spin, but will then get stuck, with a buzzing sound that I've isolated as coming from the water pump attached to the input hoses at the upper left of the the rear of the machine. If I advance the dial, it will move past the fill stage and go to the next agitation stage.  (I've tried to re-run the washer from the inital phase several time to create a hacked washing experience, but it does seem that the water never gets fully out of the bellows area at the bottom of the machine, and though I've seen it empty water to below the inner drum level, I'm not sure if it is truly emptying.  I've attached a shop vac to the drain hose to suck out the water when I've gone to work on the lower pump parts of the machine, and always end up with somewhat soapy water, despite having run several loads with nothing in the machine.)  <br />
<br />
Here is what I've done so far in terms of trouble shooting.<ul class='bbcol decimal'><li>Replaced the mother control board (gonna be sending that back soon)<br /></li><li>opened and cleaned the water removal pump and the hoses connected to it<br /></li><li>Removed the tube from the water level control/pressure plate and blew through it to make sure the build up gunk had not clogged it.</li></ul>
<br />
I have a timer control that i got on ebay on the way, but what I don't understand is how the pump could bring in water in the initial fill, and then get stuck on bring in water during the rinse.  Since I'm doing this repair myself, I'm just not sure how at this point to isolate the problem without getting every single related part and just swapping like a madman.  My wife is getting pretty mad at me about having bought a lemon, and I frankly don't have the money do anything but get this working myself.  Help!!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 21:19:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36650-kenmore-41744142400-washer-pump-buzzing-and-stuck-at-rinse-cycle/</guid>
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		<title>Svc Manual for Frig SXS FRS6LF7JB3</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36649-svc-manual-for-frig-sxs-frs6lf7jb3/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Is Frigidare SXS <strong class='bbc'>FRS6LF7JB3 Service Manual available.</strong><br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Thanks,   Daron</strong>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 20:23:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36649-svc-manual-for-frig-sxs-frs6lf7jb3/</guid>
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		<title>Kenmore 106.54609300  refrigerator side by side warm</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36648-kenmore-10654609300-refrigerator-side-by-side-warm/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I have the same problem that i have read on the forms for a clicking and humming start relay.  I can hear a rattle when it was removed. I order a new relay on it is no help. I then checked the compressor with a ohmmeter. It reads on the three pins 9.3, 6.6 and 3.5 ohms between combination of pins. Also it has no shorts from case to each pin.  I reorderd a new relay and also added the capacitor. I hoping the relay is bad from stock. It has a very light rattle. My question is can the relay be ohmed out when it is off the compressor. I think I read somewhere it should be close to a ohm or two.  Any thoughts if my new relay is still no help what to check next.<br />
Thanks for your help]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 19:52:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36648-kenmore-10654609300-refrigerator-side-by-side-warm/</guid>
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		<title>Fisher Paykel Top Load Dryer Model DEGX1</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36647-fisher-paykel-top-load-dryer-model-degx1/</link>
		<description>My Fisher Paykel Top Load Dryer Model DEGX1 is squeaking and I need to know how to disassemble the outer cabinet of this this machine.</description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 19:00:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36647-fisher-paykel-top-load-dryer-model-degx1/</guid>
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		<title>Whirlpool WED9200SQ1 dryer - no heat</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36646-whirlpool-wed9200sq1-dryer-no-heat/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<strong class='bbc'>	This dryer runs but does not heat. the small thermofuse will not show any ohms between the terminals. Could this be the problem?<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[224794]' id='ipb-attach-url-6383-0-85470100-1329975847' href="http://appliantology.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=6383" title="Thermal-Cut-Out-Fuse-Kit-280148-01022513.jpg - Size: 23.25K, Downloads: 8"><img src="http://appliantology.org/uploads/monthly_02_2012/post-68254-0-86894400-1329935137_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-6383-0-85470100-1329975847' style='width:100;height:79' class='attach' width="100" height="79" alt="Attached Image: Thermal-Cut-Out-Fuse-Kit-280148-01022513.jpg" /></a></strong><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>	<a href='http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Thermal-Cut-Out-Fuse-Kit/280148/1175772?modelNumber=WED9200SQ1' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='external'>Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit</a></strong><br />
<br />
<span style='color: #333333'><span style='font-family: Verdana, Arial'><span style='font-size: 10px;'>Item # 1175772</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<span style='color: #333333'><span style='font-family: Verdana, Arial'><span style='font-size: 10px;'><span style='font-family: inherit'><span style='font-family: inherit'><span rel='lightbox'><img src='http://www.repairclinic.com/images/img/img-descriptionTab-on.png' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
 <br />
<p class='bbc_indent' style='margin-left: 40px;'>Thermal fuse and high limit thermostat kit</p>
<p class='bbc_indent' style='margin-left: 40px;'><span style='font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif'>Manufacturer Number 280148</span></p>
<br />
<span rel='lightbox'><img src='http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Large-Part-Image?imgID=1022512&locID=3399' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></span>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 18:28:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36646-whirlpool-wed9200sq1-dryer-no-heat/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Whirlpool Duet WED9200SQ1 no heat</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36644-whirlpool-duet-wed9200sq1-no-heat/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Whirlpool Duet WED9200SQ1 no heat, tumbles and runs fine.<br />
<br />
I think this might be the problem,<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>	Thermistor</strong><br />
<span style='color: #333333'><span style='font-family: Verdana, Arial'><span style='font-size: 10px;'><br />
Item #1181075    (OEM Part)</span></span></span><br />
<strong class='bbc'>	$28.65</strong><br />
<span style='color: #333333'><span style='font-family: Verdana, Arial'><span style='font-size: 10px;'><br />
<span style='font-family: inherit'><span style='font-size: 12px;'><br />
Dryer thermistor assembly</span></span><span style='font-family: inherit'><span style='font-size: 12px;'><br />
Manufacturer Number 8577274</span></span></span></span></span><span style='color: #333333'><span style='font-family: Verdana, Arial'><span style='font-size: 10px;'><br />
If it is the heat element what ohms should the heat element read?</span></span></span>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 15:20:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36644-whirlpool-duet-wed9200sq1-no-heat/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Maytag MGR6772BDS Gemini Range control panel turns on oven bake instead of broiler.</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36643-maytag-mgr6772bds-gemini-range-control-panel-turns-on-oven-bake-instead-of-broiler/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[In a Gemini gas range the upper oven has a broiler and bake burner. When the oven is turned on bake both should come on. Only the bake burner comes on. When turned on broil only the broiler should turn on; but instead the bake burner ignites. The stove works completely normal except for this.<br />
<br />
The control panel is a CoreCentric rebuild, currently on it's way back to CoreCentric. I can't understand how the unit can, not simply fail, but function incorrectly. It is identical to the original part and there is no way to cross wires or anything. I'm concerned the replacement for it will have some other unfathomable defect.<br />
<br />
I've talked to the technician at CoreCentric and didn't get the impression he had any good idea either. Of course; why waste time speculating with me when he can eventually directly test the unit?<br />
<br />
Any ideas?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 14:18:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36643-maytag-mgr6772bds-gemini-range-control-panel-turns-on-oven-bake-instead-of-broiler/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Service Manual request Maytag bottom mount MFI2569VEW</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36641-service-manual-request-maytag-bottom-mount-mfi2569vew/</link>
		<description>need service manual for this or similar model for board diagnostics.Previous poster requested this manual but link no longer active.  Thanks</description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 14:00:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36641-service-manual-request-maytag-bottom-mount-mfi2569vew/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Frigidaire FRS26HF6BW3 ice maker overflows with water</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36639-frigidaire-frs26hf6bw3-ice-maker-overflows-with-water/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Greetings y'all,<br />
<br />
My fridge has developed a crazy issue.  Getting water from the in-door dispenser causes water to fill/overflow the ice maker creating a flowing glacier in the freezer.<br />
<br />
What's up?<br />
<br />
Thanks!<br />
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 05:31:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36639-frigidaire-frs26hf6bw3-ice-maker-overflows-with-water/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Maytag Neptune Washer keeps stopping</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36638-maytag-neptune-washer-keeps-stopping/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi,<br />
<br />
I have a Maytag Neptune MAH4000AWQ which I purchased in 2001. Couple of years ago, I had replaced the wax motor and a couple of burned resistors (triac?) on the main board.<br />
<br />
For the last few days, it has been stopping all throughout the wash cycle. If I press start, it willl start again but will turn off after 30-45 seconds. Water is getting filled and emptied out. I don't see the tub turning though.<br />
<br />
After some research, I pulled out the motor control board and checked it. There is at least one burned resistor. Should I try replacing the resistor or should I buy a board? I read about the new board/conversion kit/motor etc. for around $200 but I am looking to get this board repaired or replaced. I have seen some used boards on ebay. The model and part number match exactly - Model is AA19680-(E) and P/N is 627110600. But one difference I see with my board and the ones on eBay is that mine says REV 03 0009 where as the ones on eBay are REV 02 9837. "Use only with motor part number" matches exactly though. Should I buy this board and see if it works? Could my motor be damaged too? Is there any way to check the motor?<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance for your advice.<br />
Joe]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 05:27:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36638-maytag-neptune-washer-keeps-stopping/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title><![CDATA[Whirlpool GS465LEKS Acubake DUO intermittent lightning &#38; won't complete cleaning]]></title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36637-whirlpool-gs465leks-acubake-duo-intermittent-lightning-wont-complete-cleaning/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi,<br />
<br />
We have a 9.5 year old Whirlpool Gold Self-Cleaning Oven Acubake DUO System Super Capacity 465 Model GS465LEKS.  It's having two issues:<ul class='bbc'><li>On occasion, it will not light and after maybe 5 or 8 minutes it will finally light.  You can smell a little gas when this occurs but it will eventually light.  It can then go weeks without an issue.  You can always hear it clicking a couple times but does not light.<br /></li><li>It also will not complete a self-cleaning cycle.  It will self-clean for 45 minutes and then shuts down and gives a code F1-E6.</li></ul>
We have disconnected power and tried to reset everything.  Is it worth fixing or should we consider replacing it?<br />
<br />
Thanks for the help!!<br />
<br />
Cheers<br />
<br />
Mark]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 02:47:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36637-whirlpool-gs465leks-acubake-duo-intermittent-lightning-wont-complete-cleaning/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Bosch HDI7282U/03 oven underheating</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36635-bosch-hdi7282u03-oven-underheating/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[To the dojo,<br />
<br />
This oven (curses upon the engineer) now heats thus: it will preheat for nearly twenty minutes...up to 345.  The oven never reaches BAKE, just staying at 345.  Anybody experience this, or something like it?  According to service literature provided by Sensei Reg, this product should preheat BROIL for 25 seconds/minute and BAKE 60 seconds/minute; since it isn't making it to BAKE, couldn't I measure voltage and time to test the control board?<br />
<br />
Domos in advance,<br />
The Red Grasshoppah]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 00:34:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36635-bosch-hdi7282u03-oven-underheating/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Whirlpool Electric Water Heater EE3Z50RD055V</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36634-whirlpool-electric-water-heater-ee3z50rd055v/</link>
		<description>I was asked about one today. The last EWH  I had my paws on was made when Truman was in office.</description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 23:45:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36634-whirlpool-electric-water-heater-ee3z50rd055v/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>repair manual Danby DDW1809W dishwasher</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36633-repair-manual-danby-ddw1809w-dishwasher/</link>
		<description>Need service manuel/troubleshooting chart,thanks in advance..</description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 23:14:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36633-repair-manual-danby-ddw1809w-dishwasher/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>GE/Hotpoint belt-driven washer</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36632-gehotpoint-belt-driven-washer/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[To the Dojo,<br />
<br />
Please send a service manual for the belt-driven GE/HP washing machine.<br />
<br />
Domos in advance,<br />
The Red Grasshoppah]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 22:46:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36632-gehotpoint-belt-driven-washer/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>KM(WP) clothes washer 110.42832201 manual and tech sheet</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36629-kmwp-clothes-washer-11042832201-manual-and-tech-sheet/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[To Sensei Reg,<br />
<br />
Please send the KM(WP) clothes washer 110.42832201 manual and tech sheet.<br />
<br />
Domos in advance,<br />
The Red Grasshoppah]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 20:39:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36629-kmwp-clothes-washer-11042832201-manual-and-tech-sheet/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>White-Westinghouse washer WCI BW225ES0 (Canadian model)makes a loud squeaking upon spinning.</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36628-white-westinghouse-washer-wci-bw225es0-canadian-modelmakes-a-loud-squeaking-upon-spinning/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[White-Westinghouse washer model WCI BW225ES0 (Canadian model) At beginning of spin cycle washer squeaks a lot. It's been happenning since I changed water seal kit 5308950197. Did I create a problem when trying to solve one? If I put lubricant, oil, or silicone around the shaft area, the noise disappears for a couple of washes, but always comes back. Bearing?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 20:11:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36628-white-westinghouse-washer-wci-bw225es0-canadian-modelmakes-a-loud-squeaking-upon-spinning/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Need error codes for LG LFC25760ST refrigerator</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36627-need-error-codes-for-lg-lfc25760st-refrigerator/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[This is a wierd one fellas upon arrival customer says temps are off in freezer and fridge when you open the door temps surge to 47 F on fridge side and 36 F on freezer side then it went to an error code that shows ER FF in the display. This unit has no tech sheet or wiring diagram. I did notice the evap fan was not running neither was the fan in fridge frost pattern on evap looked fine but without tech or wiring sheets I'm lost. When I opened the cover for the Main brd on back I could smell electrical burning smell. If you can help Thanks a million cust is waiting to hear from me on what might be wrong so I need yer help ASAP. Thanks again guys.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 20:11:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36627-need-error-codes-for-lg-lfc25760st-refrigerator/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>MT clothes washer MAH8700AWW manual, please</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36626-mt-clothes-washer-mah8700aww-manual-please/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[To Sensei Reg,<br />
<br />
Please send the MT clothes washer MAH8700AWW <span class='bbc_underline'>manual</span>.<br />
<br />
Domos in advance,<br />
The Red Grasshoppah]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 19:53:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36626-mt-clothes-washer-mah8700aww-manual-please/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Electrolux dishwasher EIDW6105GS pump not working and lights flashing</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36625-electrolux-dishwasher-eidw6105gs-pump-not-working-and-lights-flashing/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Customer has dishwasher EIDW6105GS.  said "pump" not working and lights flashing.  can someone send me a service manual and maybe some pointers on this unit.  Thanks in advance.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 18:59:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36625-electrolux-dishwasher-eidw6105gs-pump-not-working-and-lights-flashing/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>GE Wine Chiller (ZDWC240)  is not</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36624-ge-wine-chiller-zdwc240-is-not/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I've got a ZDWC240 GE Wine Chiller that is not chilling. Fan runs, condenser hums, thermostat closes. I've started working my way through the refrigerator guide, but I'm wondering if it might be possible that there is access to a service manual for it. (I have the always-so-helpful Owner's manual.)<br />
<br />
Domo!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 18:05:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36624-ge-wine-chiller-zdwc240-is-not/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Wolf Wall Oven-3 Series Parts Manual #807041 Request</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36623-wolf-wall-oven-3-series-parts-manual-807041-request/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Looking for Wolf Wall Oven-3 Series (Model DO30F/S) Parts Manual #807041.<br />
Thank you.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 18:00:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36623-wolf-wall-oven-3-series-parts-manual-807041-request/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Kenmore freezer drain re-freezes, what next?  Model106.52572202</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36622-kenmore-freezer-drain-re-freezes-what-next-model10652572202/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[The freezer catch tray / drain under the evaporation coil freezes solid.  I powered off refer, thawed the ice, ensured tube is clear by running a wire through it, powered on refer, 24 hours later ice is forming in tray/tube again. <br />
<br />
What part do I need to check next and where is it located?  I have a Volt meter. <br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
John (Knotter)]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 16:54:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36622-kenmore-freezer-drain-re-freezes-what-next-model10652572202/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Maytag MFD2560HEW Refrigerator keeps tripping the circuit breaker</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36621-maytag-mfd2560hew-refrigerator-keeps-tripping-the-circuit-breaker/</link>
		<description>i have owned a maytag MFD2560HEW a little over a year purchased used. the unit has been great but today tripped my circuit breaker. i waited a moment, reset the breaker and plugged the unit in but immediately tripped the breaker. i moved the unit to a different plug in my kitchen and achieved the same result. any ideas?</description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 15:57:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36621-maytag-mfd2560hew-refrigerator-keeps-tripping-the-circuit-breaker/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>asko t761 dryer</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36631-asko-t761-dryer/</link>
		<description>i got an asko t761 main board has been replaced,giving me fault codes in languages other than english. followed manual to change to english but does not respond. new control board has jumpers on back,but cant figure what terminal to put them on or leave as is</description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 15:25:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36631-asko-t761-dryer/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title><![CDATA[WLW1500B not spinning &#60;-- old washer]]></title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36619-wlw1500b-not-spinning-old-washer/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I know that this washer is probably due for the scrap heap, but if I can repair it that is preferable so I can buy a new washer when it is more convenient.<br />
<br />
Symptoms: Washer was emitting an acrid cloud of rubbery smelling smoke, tub not spinning on the spin cycle. I thought it was the belt, but I'm not sure. After draining it and taking the back panel off, I can observe it better. The motor definitely turns the belt, the tub rotates slowly then hits a "stop" and won't turn further while the belt stays stationary and starts smelling.<br />
<br />
With the machine off, I can manually turn the tub about 360 degrees either way before it hits a stop of some sort and won't turn further. I mention this because when I test it on the spin cycle, it is still unable to turn past this point. It slowly starts turning until it hits that stopping point and then remains stationary.<br />
<br />
Is my transmission shot? I noticed many parts like this and the motor are no longer manufactured, which would effectively mean I need a new washer and that it isn't worth the time and frustration trying to fix it part by part if it is the transmission. I was going to try a new belt, because the current one definitely needs replacing--there is a bite in it from where the motor has turned against it while it didn't move (creating the rubbery smoke cloud). But after watching the washer on the spin cycle, I think the ruined belt is a symptom, not a cause of the washer not spinning.<br />
<br />
If it helps, I can attach pictures. Thanks in advance for any recommendations.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 15:23:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36619-wlw1500b-not-spinning-old-washer/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Whirlpool Double Oven RBD245PDS12 E6/F2 Error Code</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36618-whirlpool-double-oven-rbd245pds12-e6f2-error-code/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Trying to determine if it's the keypad or the control board.  The control board has been permanently discontinued.  The keypad is available.  I'm hoping a service manual will help me determine which is causing the problem.<br />
<br />
Thanks!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 14:40:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36618-whirlpool-double-oven-rbd245pds12-e6f2-error-code/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Frontloading laundry preventative maintenance</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36617-frontloading-laundry-preventative-maintenance/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[To the Dojo--<br />
<br />
Do any other grasshoppahs have specific advice about preventative maintenance for frontloading laundry products?  For example, how often to change shocks, or how to get mildew off a boot seal?<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance,<br />
The Red Grasshoppah]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 03:17:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36617-frontloading-laundry-preventative-maintenance/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>GE SxS fridge TPX24SRYABS manual</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36616-ge-sxs-fridge-tpx24sryabs-manual/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[To Sensei Reg,<br />
<br />
Please send the GE SxS fridge TPX24SRYABS manual.<br />
<br />
Domos in advance,<br />
The Red Grasshoppah]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 03:05:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36616-ge-sxs-fridge-tpx24sryabs-manual/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>GE Gfss6kkxass Refrigerator French Dr, Water filling bottom of FF section</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36614-ge-gfss6kkxass-refrigerator-french-dr-water-filling-bottom-of-ff-section/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<span style='font-size: 18px;'><span style='font-family: trebuchet ms,helvetica,sans-serif'>GE Gfss6kkxass Refrigerator,  French Door with Ice in the door, looks like its made by Samsung.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-size: 18px;'><span style='font-family: trebuchet ms,helvetica,sans-serif'>Water is filling bottom of Fresh Food section. Could not identify any water source, such as filter, icemaker, or reservoir. I emptied all the water out of the sump, then ran several gallons of water through water dispenser and cycled the icemaker, yet could produce no more water.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-size: 18px;'><span style='font-family: trebuchet ms,helvetica,sans-serif'>So, I suspect the water may be condensation finding its way to the lowest point, but all gaskets, both to the doors and to the icemaker, look fine. </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-size: 18px;'><span style='font-family: trebuchet ms,helvetica,sans-serif'>Any ideas on the source of the water?</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-size: 18px;'><span style='font-family: trebuchet ms,helvetica,sans-serif'>Domo,</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-size: 18px;'><span style='font-family: trebuchet ms,helvetica,sans-serif'>GE hater <img src='http://appliantology.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wallbash.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':wallbash:' /> </span></span>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 02:17:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36614-ge-gfss6kkxass-refrigerator-french-dr-water-filling-bottom-of-ff-section/</guid>
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		<title>LG WM2277HW Washer OE error but no water in drum</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36613-lg-wm2277hw-washer-oe-error-but-no-water-in-drum/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I'm getting the dreaded OE error.  We have been getting it for some time.  It has been intermittent, but tonight we are stuck. We have cleaned the filter and hoses and checked that the impeller is spinning.  I'm trying to run a spin cycle but the machine runs the pump for 10 minutes and then throws an OE error.  There is no water in the drum and I have drained the water from the little filter drain hose (about 3 cups) and with no water in the machine it still throws a OE error and will not spin or even rotate teh drum.<br />
How does the machine sense that there is water in the drum?  I'm thinking the problem is in the sensing circuit.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
Mike]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 02:05:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36613-lg-wm2277hw-washer-oe-error-but-no-water-in-drum/</guid>
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		<title>Amana range M/N AGR5835QDS temp way too high</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36611-amana-range-mn-agr5835qds-temp-way-too-high/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<span style='font-size: 14px;'>Hi all,</span><br />
<span style='font-size: 14px;'>I have an Amana gas range, model number <span style='color: #000000'><span style='font-family: Tahoma'>AGR5835QDS, serial number </span></span><span style='color: #000000'><span style='font-family: Tahoma'>14422143ER.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-size: 14px;'><span style='color: #000000'><span style='font-family: Tahoma'>For a while my wife has been complaining that the oven seems to run way too hot, well over the set temp. After enough burnt meals and demands that this get looked into, I put a thermocouple connected to a data logger in there today while we were setting up to cook some TastyTaters ™ brand potato puffs.</span></span><br />
<br />
The oven was set to 350 degrees, and this is what I captured:</span><br />
<br />
<span rel='lightbox'><img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/alanganes/ovenat350.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-size: 14px;'>The little dip at 350 degrees is when I opened the door to insert the tots. The oven had just beeped to indicate that it had reached set temp. Note that while it is clearly cycling the heat, it is doing so at near 500F. A while back I resistance checked the sensor probe at room temp and the numbers were reasonable, but will have to check again. The control display indicated that the temp was at 350 the whole time. Anything esle I need to look at? Should I just try another probe? Any idea if the control has a calibration setting or some such thing? Any words of wisdom?<br />
Thanks for any advice.<br />
-Al</span>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 01:32:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36611-amana-range-mn-agr5835qds-temp-way-too-high/</guid>
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		<title>GE Little swan frontload washer wcvh6800j1mr</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36610-ge-little-swan-frontload-washer-wcvh6800j1mr/</link>
		<description>We recently had to replace a suspension spring on our washer as it broke during a cycle.  After replacing it, we followed the manual directions to check all functions which checked out and the only thing hubby adjusted was the water level from 2 to1.  Since we have tried to start reusing it, on any cycle it will go a bit, then stop and start blinking as it is paused..I have to hit start several times during a cycle, although the time does go down, it continues to stop, so what I have been doing is switching it over to drain and spin after a few times on wash cycle until the timer runs out but it takes forever to complete just one cycle.  We have again checked everything and were wondering if when the spring broke, if perhaps the tub fell on the motor or something causeing it to do this.  My machine is not that old, so I am praying it is an easy fix.  Thank you.....</description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 00:42:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36610-ge-little-swan-frontload-washer-wcvh6800j1mr/</guid>
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