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	<title>The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum</title>
	<description>Come in, grab a brewski, and get help repairing all your major kitchen appliances: refrigerators, icemakers, ranges, ovens, stoves, disposals, and dishwashers</description>
	<link>http://appliantology.org</link>
	<pubDate>Thu, 23 Feb 2012 05:36:25 +0000</pubDate>
	<ttl>90</ttl>
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		<title>GE Nautilus filling and draining at the same time. GSC3430F00WW</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36668-ge-nautilus-filling-and-draining-at-the-same-time-gsc3430f00ww/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hello,   I have a GE Nautilus model number GSC3430F00WW.  It is a portable apartment unit.  A little over a week ago, the timer went out.  The pump was leaking also (I tried to replace the o-ring by the solenoid where it was leaking, but it still leaked.)  I decided to replace both at the same time.  Now the dishwasher fills just fine on the initial fill, but after the solenoid turns on to drain, it stays open.  So the next cycle when it is filling, the machine just drains back into the sink.<br />
<br />
I thought maybe I had a defective timer, so I reinstalled my old one and manually moved it through the positions and it did the same thing.  So, I thought maybe it was the new solenoid itself.  Since the old one was working just fine (the pump was what was leaking) I switched them out.  It had the same problem.<br />
<br />
I am not sure what happened between then and now and how this problem started, but I am wondering what i am not checking.  What could be a solution to this problem?  Once the Solenoid is open, even directly unplugging it during the cycle (from under the machine) does not close it. The way I can get it to close is by unlatching the machine and re-latching it to go through the next cycle.  <br />
<br />
Any help would be greatly appreciated.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Feb 2012 05:36:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36668-ge-nautilus-filling-and-draining-at-the-same-time-gsc3430f00ww/</guid>
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		<title><![CDATA[GE GLD4100L00WW Dishwasher &#34;not running at all&#34;  :-(]]></title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36663-ge-gld4100l00ww-dishwasher-not-running-at-all/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[ge GLD4100L00WW Dishwasher – Dishwasher won't run – Rebooted controls by turning off the power for 30 seconds and then turning the power back on – two light illuminate on control panel (Normal Wash & Heated Dry) but none of the buttons work and the lights go out again after 2 or 3 minutes.    I suspect a circuit board needs replacing but I will buy a new non-GE product befor i have a service person visit my home for this one .]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Feb 2012 02:30:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36663-ge-gld4100l00ww-dishwasher-not-running-at-all/</guid>
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		<title>Bosch DW # SHU9915UC/U11 Stuck on drain</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36662-bosch-dw-shu9915ucu11-stuck-on-drain/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I got a call for this bosch dw that "wouldn't wash the dishes" when I tried to run it, it would only drain. No matter what cyle you select it just drains. the drain pump will run as long as you let it. I took the sump apart to make sure the pump was actually working, it was. And then i put some water in it to see if would actually drain and it did. If it were an older model I would have assumed that the timer was going bad so I took the board out to hopefully see some visible damge. I couldn't find any. I don't think there is anything else in that circuit so I assumed the board must be bad and ordered one. I put the new one in this morning and the same thing happened. I decided to fill the tub with as much water as it would have if it were doing a load. When I turned it back on it started spraying and draining at the same time until the water was gone and then it continued draining as before.<br />
I'm stumped. Hopefully someone will have some good info for me.<br />
Thanks!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Feb 2012 01:18:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36662-bosch-dw-shu9915ucu11-stuck-on-drain/</guid>
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		<title>Whirlpool oven  RF364PXPQ not heating properly</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36657-whirlpool-oven-rf364pxpq-not-heating-properly/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I have a Whirlpool self cleaning oven, Model RF364PXPQ. I bought it with the house, have no idea how old it is.<br />
It suddenly stopped heating properly. I got a thermometer and it seemed to be okay, just slow to heat up. I googled the issue and heard the bake element might be damaged. Sure enough, there was a small spot. I replaced it and thought - viola!  Wrong. It's still heating very slowly. Any ideas? Help?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 23:15:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36657-whirlpool-oven-rf364pxpq-not-heating-properly/</guid>
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		<title>Kenmore, 106.55612400, Refrigerator, No Ice</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36652-kenmore-10655612400-refrigerator-no-ice/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Unit does not make ice. Cools fine. A tech went out on the job and changed the Ice maker twice and throughout multiple visits, he also changed the optics (transmitter and reciever boards). In total spanning multiple visits, this guy changed the ice maker twice and the optics 4 times. He then gave up because he was stumped. I know because he is a colleague of mine.<br />
<br />
I looked at the machine today and I boiled the problem down to the fact that both optics boards have 120V coming into them but the one on the right side (I think that one is called the transmitter) supplies only 89Volts to the ice maker. So naturally Im thinking the ice maker won't do anything with just 89 volts. So I changed the optics yet again and observed the exact same results as before. Is this weird or what? Still 89 Volts. When I open the freezer door and push the optics blocker in with my hand so that the optics can talk to each other, I get a solid red light which according to the tech sheet that comes with the optics indicates that the optics are working properly. Which is strange because I know that can't be since they're only giving 89 volts to the ice maker which has a sticker on it that says 115v60z.<br />
<br />
Some more info, whether the switch on the right hand side optic board is ON or Off I still get 89 volts going to the ice maker. I still tried to short the T and H terminals on the ice maker to see if it'll harvest but it won't. The wiring harness connector of the ice maker only reads 89 volts without the ice maker connected and with the ice maker connected if I take a voltage reading across its L and N terminals, you guessed it, 89 volts.<br />
<br />
Any ideas? Im stumped.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 22:07:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36652-kenmore-10655612400-refrigerator-no-ice/</guid>
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		<title>frigidaire d/w #fdr252rbso , centering tool</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36651-frigidaire-dw-fdr252rbso-centering-tool/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[hi . have new motor and motor seals ordered. problem is the service manual says centering tool part #154154801 should be used to center motor to pump and to instal seals, but according to frigidaire the tool is no longer avaible. anyone know what else might work, or can i install parts and hope it doesn't leak?. seams strange they continue to sell the motor and not the tool. thanks for your help.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 21:59:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36651-frigidaire-dw-fdr252rbso-centering-tool/</guid>
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		<title>Kenmore 106.54609300  refrigerator side by side warm</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36648-kenmore-10654609300-refrigerator-side-by-side-warm/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I have the same problem that i have read on the forms for a clicking and humming start relay.  I can hear a rattle when it was removed. I order a new relay on it is no help. I then checked the compressor with a ohmmeter. It reads on the three pins 9.3, 6.6 and 3.5 ohms between combination of pins. Also it has no shorts from case to each pin.  I reorderd a new relay and also added the capacitor. I hoping the relay is bad from stock. It has a very light rattle. My question is can the relay be ohmed out when it is off the compressor. I think I read somewhere it should be close to a ohm or two.  Any thoughts if my new relay is still no help what to check next.<br />
Thanks for your help]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 19:52:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36648-kenmore-10654609300-refrigerator-side-by-side-warm/</guid>
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		<title>Maytag MGR6772BDS Gemini Range control panel turns on oven bake instead of broiler.</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36643-maytag-mgr6772bds-gemini-range-control-panel-turns-on-oven-bake-instead-of-broiler/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[In a Gemini gas range the upper oven has a broiler and bake burner. When the oven is turned on bake both should come on. Only the bake burner comes on. When turned on broil only the broiler should turn on; but instead the bake burner ignites. The stove works completely normal except for this.<br />
<br />
The control panel is a CoreCentric rebuild, currently on it's way back to CoreCentric. I can't understand how the unit can, not simply fail, but function incorrectly. It is identical to the original part and there is no way to cross wires or anything. I'm concerned the replacement for it will have some other unfathomable defect.<br />
<br />
I've talked to the technician at CoreCentric and didn't get the impression he had any good idea either. Of course; why waste time speculating with me when he can eventually directly test the unit?<br />
<br />
Any ideas?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 14:18:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36643-maytag-mgr6772bds-gemini-range-control-panel-turns-on-oven-bake-instead-of-broiler/</guid>
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		<title>Frigidaire FRS26HF6BW3 ice maker overflows with water</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36639-frigidaire-frs26hf6bw3-ice-maker-overflows-with-water/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Greetings y'all,<br />
<br />
My fridge has developed a crazy issue.  Getting water from the in-door dispenser causes water to fill/overflow the ice maker creating a flowing glacier in the freezer.<br />
<br />
What's up?<br />
<br />
Thanks!<br />
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 05:31:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36639-frigidaire-frs26hf6bw3-ice-maker-overflows-with-water/</guid>
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		<title><![CDATA[Whirlpool GS465LEKS Acubake DUO intermittent lightning &#38; won't complete cleaning]]></title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36637-whirlpool-gs465leks-acubake-duo-intermittent-lightning-wont-complete-cleaning/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi,<br />
<br />
We have a 9.5 year old Whirlpool Gold Self-Cleaning Oven Acubake DUO System Super Capacity 465 Model GS465LEKS.  It's having two issues:<ul class='bbc'><li>On occasion, it will not light and after maybe 5 or 8 minutes it will finally light.  You can smell a little gas when this occurs but it will eventually light.  It can then go weeks without an issue.  You can always hear it clicking a couple times but does not light.<br /></li><li>It also will not complete a self-cleaning cycle.  It will self-clean for 45 minutes and then shuts down and gives a code F1-E6.</li></ul>
We have disconnected power and tried to reset everything.  Is it worth fixing or should we consider replacing it?<br />
<br />
Thanks for the help!!<br />
<br />
Cheers<br />
<br />
Mark]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 02:47:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36637-whirlpool-gs465leks-acubake-duo-intermittent-lightning-wont-complete-cleaning/</guid>
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		<title>Bosch HDI7282U/03 oven underheating</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36635-bosch-hdi7282u03-oven-underheating/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[To the dojo,<br />
<br />
This oven (curses upon the engineer) now heats thus: it will preheat for nearly twenty minutes...up to 345.  The oven never reaches BAKE, just staying at 345.  Anybody experience this, or something like it?  According to service literature provided by Sensei Reg, this product should preheat BROIL for 25 seconds/minute and BAKE 60 seconds/minute; since it isn't making it to BAKE, couldn't I measure voltage and time to test the control board?<br />
<br />
Domos in advance,<br />
The Red Grasshoppah]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 00:34:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36635-bosch-hdi7282u03-oven-underheating/</guid>
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		<title>Need error codes for LG LFC25760ST refrigerator</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36627-need-error-codes-for-lg-lfc25760st-refrigerator/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[This is a wierd one fellas upon arrival customer says temps are off in freezer and fridge when you open the door temps surge to 47 F on fridge side and 36 F on freezer side then it went to an error code that shows ER FF in the display. This unit has no tech sheet or wiring diagram. I did notice the evap fan was not running neither was the fan in fridge frost pattern on evap looked fine but without tech or wiring sheets I'm lost. When I opened the cover for the Main brd on back I could smell electrical burning smell. If you can help Thanks a million cust is waiting to hear from me on what might be wrong so I need yer help ASAP. Thanks again guys.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 20:11:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36627-need-error-codes-for-lg-lfc25760st-refrigerator/</guid>
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		<title>Electrolux dishwasher EIDW6105GS pump not working and lights flashing</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36625-electrolux-dishwasher-eidw6105gs-pump-not-working-and-lights-flashing/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Customer has dishwasher EIDW6105GS.  said "pump" not working and lights flashing.  can someone send me a service manual and maybe some pointers on this unit.  Thanks in advance.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 18:59:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36625-electrolux-dishwasher-eidw6105gs-pump-not-working-and-lights-flashing/</guid>
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		<title>GE Wine Chiller (ZDWC240)  is not</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36624-ge-wine-chiller-zdwc240-is-not/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I've got a ZDWC240 GE Wine Chiller that is not chilling. Fan runs, condenser hums, thermostat closes. I've started working my way through the refrigerator guide, but I'm wondering if it might be possible that there is access to a service manual for it. (I have the always-so-helpful Owner's manual.)<br />
<br />
Domo!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 18:05:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36624-ge-wine-chiller-zdwc240-is-not/</guid>
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		<title>Kenmore freezer drain re-freezes, what next?  Model106.52572202</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36622-kenmore-freezer-drain-re-freezes-what-next-model10652572202/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[The freezer catch tray / drain under the evaporation coil freezes solid.  I powered off refer, thawed the ice, ensured tube is clear by running a wire through it, powered on refer, 24 hours later ice is forming in tray/tube again. <br />
<br />
What part do I need to check next and where is it located?  I have a Volt meter. <br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
John (Knotter)]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 16:54:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36622-kenmore-freezer-drain-re-freezes-what-next-model10652572202/</guid>
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		<title>Maytag MFD2560HEW Refrigerator keeps tripping the circuit breaker</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36621-maytag-mfd2560hew-refrigerator-keeps-tripping-the-circuit-breaker/</link>
		<description>i have owned a maytag MFD2560HEW a little over a year purchased used. the unit has been great but today tripped my circuit breaker. i waited a moment, reset the breaker and plugged the unit in but immediately tripped the breaker. i moved the unit to a different plug in my kitchen and achieved the same result. any ideas?</description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 15:57:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36621-maytag-mfd2560hew-refrigerator-keeps-tripping-the-circuit-breaker/</guid>
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		<title>GE Gfss6kkxass Refrigerator French Dr, Water filling bottom of FF section</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36614-ge-gfss6kkxass-refrigerator-french-dr-water-filling-bottom-of-ff-section/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<span style='font-size: 18px;'><span style='font-family: trebuchet ms,helvetica,sans-serif'>GE Gfss6kkxass Refrigerator,  French Door with Ice in the door, looks like its made by Samsung.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-size: 18px;'><span style='font-family: trebuchet ms,helvetica,sans-serif'>Water is filling bottom of Fresh Food section. Could not identify any water source, such as filter, icemaker, or reservoir. I emptied all the water out of the sump, then ran several gallons of water through water dispenser and cycled the icemaker, yet could produce no more water.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-size: 18px;'><span style='font-family: trebuchet ms,helvetica,sans-serif'>So, I suspect the water may be condensation finding its way to the lowest point, but all gaskets, both to the doors and to the icemaker, look fine. </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-size: 18px;'><span style='font-family: trebuchet ms,helvetica,sans-serif'>Any ideas on the source of the water?</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-size: 18px;'><span style='font-family: trebuchet ms,helvetica,sans-serif'>Domo,</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-size: 18px;'><span style='font-family: trebuchet ms,helvetica,sans-serif'>GE hater <img src='http://appliantology.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wallbash.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':wallbash:' /> </span></span>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 02:17:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36614-ge-gfss6kkxass-refrigerator-french-dr-water-filling-bottom-of-ff-section/</guid>
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		<title>Amana range M/N AGR5835QDS temp way too high</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36611-amana-range-mn-agr5835qds-temp-way-too-high/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<span style='font-size: 14px;'>Hi all,</span><br />
<span style='font-size: 14px;'>I have an Amana gas range, model number <span style='color: #000000'><span style='font-family: Tahoma'>AGR5835QDS, serial number </span></span><span style='color: #000000'><span style='font-family: Tahoma'>14422143ER.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-size: 14px;'><span style='color: #000000'><span style='font-family: Tahoma'>For a while my wife has been complaining that the oven seems to run way too hot, well over the set temp. After enough burnt meals and demands that this get looked into, I put a thermocouple connected to a data logger in there today while we were setting up to cook some TastyTaters ™ brand potato puffs.</span></span><br />
<br />
The oven was set to 350 degrees, and this is what I captured:</span><br />
<br />
<span rel='lightbox'><img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/alanganes/ovenat350.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-size: 14px;'>The little dip at 350 degrees is when I opened the door to insert the tots. The oven had just beeped to indicate that it had reached set temp. Note that while it is clearly cycling the heat, it is doing so at near 500F. A while back I resistance checked the sensor probe at room temp and the numbers were reasonable, but will have to check again. The control display indicated that the temp was at 350 the whole time. Anything esle I need to look at? Should I just try another probe? Any idea if the control has a calibration setting or some such thing? Any words of wisdom?<br />
Thanks for any advice.<br />
-Al</span>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 01:32:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36611-amana-range-mn-agr5835qds-temp-way-too-high/</guid>
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		<title>GE pss26mstass fridge with no freezer door operation</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36607-ge-pss26mstass-fridge-with-no-freezer-door-operation/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Yes, I know, I need to sign up for one of the paid memberships.  I haven't forgotten, promise, especially now that the rumor is that Kenmores will be LG-made.<br />
<br />
To the matter at hand: GE fridge with an inactive door dispenser.  All of the green lights come on, but nothing dispenses: water, crushed, cubed, door lock, etc. However, if you press the button marked "Light" the light does not come on.  (Bulb is good; checked that.)<br />
<br />
Opened freezer door, closed the door switch, and pressed "cubed" and "crushed" -- solenoid in back didn't move or hum.  "Ah ha!" I thought -- "No voltage getting back there, ergo it's a switch, ergo it's a keypad problem, and I've seen a million of those."  <br />
<br />
So like a n00b, I stopped my diagnosis there, ordered the keypad/board, and moved on.  <br />
<br />
Went out today, put the keypad/board in, and blammo -- nothing had changed.  All the green lights come on, but no water or ice, and no motion in the solenoid back by the auger. <br />
<br />
Followed wire harness down to the bottom, strong continuity between control board's "power" and the wire harness.  Did not take a voltage reading, which now seems obvious, but I forgot in the heat of the moment.<br />
<br />
The black solenoid next to the dispenser door looks like it's been in a junkyard.  What exactly does this solenoid do?  Could it be preventing water flow as well as ice dispensing?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Feb 2012 23:51:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36607-ge-pss26mstass-fridge-with-no-freezer-door-operation/</guid>
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		<title>GE JDP36 what is the F2 code mean</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36604-ge-jdp36-what-is-the-f2-code-mean/</link>
		<description>Oven goes off on its own in about 30 minuets and beeps with a f2, f3, f4, and a f5 after it cools down I can reset it but it only stays on for 30min again.</description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Feb 2012 18:24:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36604-ge-jdp36-what-is-the-f2-code-mean/</guid>
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		<title>F7 Error, DCS WOT-230 wall oven - parts availability? also possible other tips?</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36603-f7-error-dcs-wot-230-wall-oven-parts-availability-also-possible-other-tips/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I am having a recurring F7 error (key pad key depressed, generally caused by a bad keypad, but can also be a bad controller) with a DCS wall oven.  I have read the F7 FAQ here, and have tried:<br />
1) cleaning the contacts<br />
2) adding paper insulation on either side of the ribbon cable<br />
<br />
The problem is intermittant, and is much worse when the weather is humid.<br />
<br />
Tonight I will try disconnecting the ribbon cable and applying power to the oven to see if the F7 error returns without the keypad attached.<br />
<br />
If it doesn't I assume that means that there is a short in the touch pad.<br />
<br />
A couple of questions:<br />
1) I can't find the keypad in any of the online parts suppiers. It is DCS part 17530-02 Rev. b, can anyone point me to a resource to find this DCS part?<br />
2)  Is there any other way to repair/troubleshoot the keypad? Can I heat it up with a heat gun, bake it in (some other) oven, peel it apart, something? I don't know how these membrane pads work, so I'm not sure where to start.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
<br />
Dave]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Feb 2012 17:39:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36603-f7-error-dcs-wot-230-wall-oven-parts-availability-also-possible-other-tips/</guid>
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		<title>GE Refrigerator Bad Compressor?</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36602-ge-refrigerator-bad-compressor/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<span style='color: #000000'><span style='font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida,'>I have a GE refrigerator that I suspect the sealed system may have leaked refrigerant. The unit will not cool either the fresh food or freezer compartments. Both fans run (evaporator and condenser), the compressor appears to be running but there is no cooling. I also checked the 3 thermistors @70 degrees F and they read proper resistance.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style='color: #000000'><span style='font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida,'>Attached is a picture of the refrigerant lines entering the evaporator, notice the ice buildup on the line.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style='color: #000000'><span style='font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida,'>What to you guys think?</span></span><div id='attach_wrap' class=''>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Feb 2012 16:54:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36602-ge-refrigerator-bad-compressor/</guid>
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		<title>Maytag MSD2641KEW Refrigerator with erratic temperature control</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36601-maytag-msd2641kew-refrigerator-with-erratic-temperature-control/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[why is my fridge running backwards it wont turn off till the fridge is 10 degrees and then stays off till the freezer is 40. what is connected backwards? i changed the adaptive defrost board after checking the defrost thermostat and heater.<br />
<strong class='bbc'>	MSD2641KEW</strong><br />
<br />
that's the model number it's a 5 year old maytag side by side. i haven't found a main board for it. what are some wires to switch or how do i turn this thing around?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Feb 2012 16:27:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36601-maytag-msd2641kew-refrigerator-with-erratic-temperature-control/</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>Frigidaire Refrigerator FRT21H7ASB5 - Not getting cold...ticking noise?</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36597-frigidaire-refrigerator-frt21h7asb5-not-getting-coldticking-noise/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[We have a Frigidaire Refrigerator FRT21H7ASB5 here who suddenly stopped keeping cold on the refrigerator side, and will not get to a freezing temperature on the freezer size (but is slightly cold)<br />
<br />
I can hear the fan going - when I pulled the refrigerator out I was able to hear a slow ticking sound - what do you think? Compressor? Is this worth fixing?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Feb 2012 14:18:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36597-frigidaire-refrigerator-frt21h7asb5-not-getting-coldticking-noise/</guid>
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		<title>Samsung RS269LARS Water Dispenser Not Working</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36593-samsung-rs269lars-water-dispenser-not-working/</link>
		<description>I have a Samsung RS269LARS side by side.  The ice dispenser is working fine, but the water is no longer working.</description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Feb 2012 04:34:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36593-samsung-rs269lars-water-dispenser-not-working/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Samsung Refrigerator Mod#RSG237AARS/Xaa Water leaking</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36591-samsung-refrigerator-modrsg237aarsxaa-water-leaking/</link>
		<description>This refer has water leaking somewhere in the bottom of refers bottom shelf. Its not the water tank and the only thing i see down there is a damper vent. I was advised to turn off energy saving feature as that controls the auto defrost and causes defrost to come on and cause water to build up in bottom of refer, Its not a lot of water but its noticable. What could cause this?</description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Feb 2012 02:09:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36591-samsung-refrigerator-modrsg237aarsxaa-water-leaking/</guid>
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		<title><![CDATA[Jenn-Air 48600P oven won't heat...AHA!]]></title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36588-jenn-air-48600p-oven-wont-heataha/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[This is fun so far. I'm posting now because I am about to try the fix and I'd love your advice before I start soldering.<br />
<br />
Jenn-Air 48600P dual-fuel downdraft, built in 2000, beautiful stainless, seems to be in good shape other than the fact that neither bake nor broil elements will heat. Each has about the right resistance (~20 ohms); hi-limit is intact as judged by the fact that there's 120V to ground from the element.  I can hear the relay click on, nice and clean. There's 240V between the L2 feed to board where and the switched side of the bake relay, whether it's off or in bake mode. Clearly the relay is busted, right?<br />
<br />
Thanks to these forums I found fixyourboard and was about to send them the main power board, which is physically connected to the front control panel.  But I keep thinking, why is neither bake nor broil working? Two faults seems unlikely. So I start staring at the board and I can't for the life of me figure out how the power gets to the broil relay. Finally I look up the relay data sheet: Omron G8P<br />
<a href='http://www.components.omron.com/components/web/pdflib.nsf/0/1F359FF7E15DAA0E85257201007DD46E/$file/D20G8P0800.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='external'>http://www.components.omron.com/components/web/pdflib.nsf/0/1F359FF7E15DAA0E85257201007DD46E/$file/D20G8P0800.pdf</a><br />
and I get it. The power to the broil relay is fed through the bake relay in such a way that they cannot both be on at the same time--it's the other side of the throw!<br />
<br />
And then I see the busted solder joint where L2 powers the bake relay (photo below).<br />
<br />
Later tonight, solder time. Wish me luck, I'll let you know.<div id='attach_wrap' class=''>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Feb 2012 00:03:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36588-jenn-air-48600p-oven-wont-heataha/</guid>
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		<title>Bosch SHV6803 not heating water - how to get to control module</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36587-bosch-shv6803-not-heating-water-how-to-get-to-control-module/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[224458]' id='ipb-attach-url-6377-0-15421900-1329978086' href="http://appliantology.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=6377" title="boschdishwasher.jpg - Size: 75.54K, Downloads: 4"><img src="http://appliantology.org/uploads/monthly_02_2012/post-27991-0-67234700-1329688055_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-6377-0-15421900-1329978086' style='width:100;height:76' class='attach' width="100" height="76" alt="Attached Image: boschdishwasher.jpg" /></a>Hoping for your help here - subscribed to the forum a few years ago and you helped me replace a water inlet valve on my subzero fridge for the icemake that saved me hundreds!<br />
<br />
Now have the above model bosch dishwasher that will not heat water - i suspect it is the faulty relay solder joint described in other threads.<br />
<br />
My problem is how to get to the control module?  This has the integral wood panel door - i took the wood panel door off by removing the torx screws but there is a metal piece that runs around the top where the buttons or and also covers the control module - I can't seem to figure out how to remove this without breaking something - I downloaded the repair manual but there didn't seem to be a clear cut picture for how to do this w/ the SHV - can you help please?<br />
<br />
I've uploaded a picture so you can see the metal piece I am talking about - the front of it is covered with white paper that appears glued on.<br />
<br />
<br />
Many thanks again.<br />
<br />
Rich]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 19 Feb 2012 21:48:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36587-bosch-shv6803-not-heating-water-how-to-get-to-control-module/</guid>
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		<title>frigidaire apt size dishwasher #fdr252rbs motor humming</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36585-frigidaire-apt-size-dishwasher-fdr252rbs-motor-humming/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[hi guys and gals. this unit is only 17 '' wide. water enters fine. but on wash and drain motor only hums. when i give a push on the blades with a screwdriver it runs fine for wash then push in the oppositedirrection and drains fine.motor start realy has no continunity in up right position but shows  coninunity when upside down.so i believe its fine plus the motor is getting juice. i'm quite sure the start windings are gone. just wanted to confirm with my experts . oh naturally the tech sheet is missing so couldn't ohm the windings. thanks ..]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 19 Feb 2012 21:26:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36585-frigidaire-apt-size-dishwasher-fdr252rbs-motor-humming/</guid>
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		<title>GE Triton XL dishwasher GSD6600G00BB will not drain (again)</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36581-ge-triton-xl-dishwasher-gsd6600g00bb-will-not-drain-again/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Nihon de naganen ni watatte adobaisu shite itadaki arigatogozaimasu, Fixit-San. (Thank your for your advice over the years, Samurai Appliance Repair Man.)<br />
<br />
Once again I turn you, this time to advise me how best to persuade a recalcitrant dishwasher to drain.<br />
<br />
I have a GE Triton XL (GSD660G00BB) that won't pump out. I checked a few of the other posts and think I have the problem identified, but I'd like the opinion of the experts here before I order parts.<br />
<br />
My dishwasher is slightly different from the one shown in <a href='http://fixitnow.com/wp/2006/07/04/ge-dishwasher-drainology/.' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='external'>http://fixitnow.com/wp/2006/07/04/ge-dishwasher-drainology/.</a> The drain pump (<a href='http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drain-Pump/WD26X10016/948053?modelNumber=GSD6600G00BB' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='external'>http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drain-Pump/WD26X10016/948053?modelNumber=GSD6600G00BB</a>) is attached to the left of the circulation pump and I think this is the problem. I took all the parts underneath apart and cleaned out the gookus. One of the flapper valves was stuck but that didn't solve the problem. I performed the continuity test (OK) and current (fail) on the drain pump, so I think this is the problem, yes?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 19 Feb 2012 18:57:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36581-ge-triton-xl-dishwasher-gsd6600g00bb-will-not-drain-again/</guid>
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		<title>Viking VGIC305 4BBS Stove/Oven</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36579-viking-vgic305-4bbs-stoveoven/</link>
		<description>I have an older Viking Model # Above: Viking VGIC305. Last night fired up the broiler, flames going everywhere, have had an issue with Mice. Yup fried mice in broiler assembly.  All screws removed, none srtripped or broken. Assembly hangs but does not come completely out. Like help please.</description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 19 Feb 2012 17:33:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36579-viking-vgic305-4bbs-stoveoven/</guid>
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		<title>Thermador PGR 364 GDZS range fault code</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36578-thermador-pgr-364-gdzs-range-fault-code/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I bought a used Thermador PGR 364 GDZS.  It seems to be in working order, except occasionally the broiler does not stay lit.  Also the stove frequently re-lights, but will heat up.  The "oven" light (blue) does not appear to be working.  When the range is off, the "heating" light (also blue) blinks three times.  I suspect the "oven" light should be blinking to give first half of the fault code.  I was really wondering why the stove/broiler are not always working and if it seems I have to replace the power relay board.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 19 Feb 2012 13:40:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36578-thermador-pgr-364-gdzs-range-fault-code/</guid>
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		<title>GE DW, GLD4550R08CS, runs forever</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36577-ge-dw-gld4550r08cs-runs-forever/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Ok, so | was able to get out and take a look at this thing, GE D/Washer, GLD4550R08CS.<br />
Cust complaint is that it runs forever, 4+ hours. First thing I checked was heater-13 Ohms at terminals. Ran through a diagnositcs, pump works, auxillary pump works, fill works, heater engages.<br />
Took a look at the board, all terminals look clean<br />
Ran through wiring diagram, (No cycle sheet on tech sheet) tested contacts on board that go to heater-all good. Then notice a thermistor-CN7 temp sensor-it wasn't there??? , not to be confused with a model selector-that WAS there.<br />
Ask client-NO, no one has worked on this dishwasher before, they are orginal owners. So where did the temp sensor go? Is there supposed to be one there? <br />
So I call up my trusty parts guy wth GE, first of all he gave me 3 (THREE!??!) possible boards to order and he didn't know what was the right one.<br />
ps-there is no turbidity sensor on this model.<br />
So he calls GE engineers-they finally narrow down a new board for me, I ask if the diagram has a temp sensor on the CN7 peg-he's not sure.<br />
So here I am with a special order, non returnable part. Does any one else have any insight into this? Do you think it is a board issue? Machine fills, runs, drains and heater comes on (when?-not too sure) but definatly at some points. But D/W runs forever........HELP please.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 19 Feb 2012 00:06:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36577-ge-dw-gld4550r08cs-runs-forever/</guid>
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		<title><![CDATA[Red, greasy &#34;film&#34; in Stainless Dishwasher?!?!? 665.15912001]]></title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36576-red-greasy-film-in-stainless-dishwasher-66515912001/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[My wife pointed out to me today that our dishwasher (Kenmore Elite) has a waxy, greasy red film that started about a couple of weeks ago in the top right portion of the top rack and has spread quickly on the top rack and in the top corners of the tub (stainless steel).  Initially, I thought it might be rust because we have galvanized plumbing and I've turned the water off and on recently so I ran it empty with Iron Out.  When I got back home, I looked at it more closely and saw that it clearly isn't rust.  I'm guessing some sort of mold?  My wife put some vinegar in the washer about a week ago.<br />
<br />
Suggestions?  Ideas?<br />
<br />
Thanks!<br />
Chris]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 18 Feb 2012 22:56:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36576-red-greasy-film-in-stainless-dishwasher-66515912001/</guid>
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		<title>Whirlpool Dishwasher DU3003XL - upper wash assembly detached</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36575-whirlpool-dishwasher-du3003xl-upper-wash-assembly-detached/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[The upper wash arm assembly has become detached from the wash arm/support.  It does not appear broken.  I am having trouble reattaching it.  On the  diagram for dishwasher parts it shows this upper wash arm on top of the tower, this makes no sense.<br />
<br />
On top of the wash arm/support there is a black rubber bladder with a hole in it.  Do the upper wash arm assembly somehow snap in thru this hole, or do i have do disassembly this part? Obviously the upper wash assembly has to be reattached with the holes faces up and the, but it seems the lower portion of this part is too small to fit in this bladder.<br />
Thanks.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 18 Feb 2012 21:57:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36575-whirlpool-dishwasher-du3003xl-upper-wash-assembly-detached/</guid>
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		<title>Frigidaire, dishwasher, FDBB2040FC1  Round II</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36572-frigidaire-dishwasher-fdbb2040fc1-round-ii/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I am back to the fabulous applaintology website once again.  Hoping your advice can save a Friggy dishwasher one more time.  This time I had a really hard time finding where the leak is coming from.  I am afraid dish soap was run through a couple of times and may be a culprit but maybe not.  <br />
<br />
Could you please help me diagnose and hopefully find an easy fix for this leak.  <br />
Here is the pic.<br />
<span rel='lightbox'><img src='http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss221/Tsuriman/FriggyleakIIwithcaptions.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></span><br />
<br />
PS  Round I:  Was great, the score cards show 10-8 in favor of the Ikkō-ikki appliantologist.  Friggy front seal is working great.  <a href='http://appliantology.org/topic/32610-frigidaire-dishwasher-fdbb2040fc1/page__fromsearch__1' class='bbc_url' title=''>Here.</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 18 Feb 2012 20:29:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36572-frigidaire-dishwasher-fdbb2040fc1-round-ii/</guid>
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		<title>model CHE9000BCE maytag range oven not working</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36570-model-che9000bce-maytag-range-oven-not-working/</link>
		<description>try to start oven and unit shows F3 and wont come on. found no schematic or diagnostic sheet to tell me what f3 is on a maytag, any ideas.  need help . thanks</description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 18 Feb 2012 19:09:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36570-model-che9000bce-maytag-range-oven-not-working/</guid>
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		<title>Microwave continually blows fuse after slamming door</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36565-microwave-continually-blows-fuse-after-slamming-door/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[GE Spacesaver JVM1441BH04<br />
<br />
My daughter slammed the door to the microwave, but not much harder than the kids usually do. Then it would not come on at all. I did some research on the forum and found the fuse and replaced it. The lights came on and all seemed well. I could open the door and the inside light came on. But when I put something in it and started to microwave it the fuse blows in just a few seconds. I checked what I could of the board the fuse is on and the switches (seems to be three) where the door connects. I don't see anything odd, but I don't really know what I am looking for. <br />
<br />
I am expecting a switch or two needs to be replaced. But I am not that great with a volt/ohm meter and am not sure how to even check them. I don't want to order all the switches if I only need one... or if that is not really the problem. <br />
<br />
Is there a chance this is something else? Can you give easy directions on how to test the switches to determine which one(s) are shot? Are there other things I should look for?<br />
<br />
Thanks for the help.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 18 Feb 2012 14:33:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36565-microwave-continually-blows-fuse-after-slamming-door/</guid>
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		<title>Kenmore Elite Frig 253-44383400 - All Lights Flashing</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36555-kenmore-elite-frig-253-44383400-all-lights-flashing/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[All lights flashing off then on in refrigerator in this side-by-side unit.<br />
Freezer is not exhibiting this behavior.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:04:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36555-kenmore-elite-frig-253-44383400-all-lights-flashing/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Samsung RS2630SH/XAA wont make ice</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36550-samsung-rs2630shxaa-wont-make-ice/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi, i am a service tech and i am getting more and more calls for samsung as im the only guy in town that will even try to repair them here. I am successful in most of the repairs but some still stump me from time to time.  <br />
<br />
Anyways, I have a customers sxs with M# RS2630SH that will not make ice unless the test button is pressed. It will twist the tray, rotate back and forth an call for more water which it fills and will dump the "test" ice, but does not continue to cycle. I do not like just changing parts in hopes i fix it but I could not find anything wrong with any parts so I have installed a new ice maker, H2O valve, and filter. the light on the front does not say "ice off" or anything obvious like that and it still wont make ice. I am under the impression it may be the control board but was hoping maybe you guys could help me out a bit. <br />
<br />
Now the ORIGINAL call was "wont make ice and the middle of the fridge is warm". I found a faulty condensor fan(very common problem), repaired and everything was back to normal except the ice maker issue which is an ongoing issue.<br />
<br />
I finally became a member after using this site a bit and am looking forward to becoming a active participating member.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Feb 2012 02:29:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36550-samsung-rs2630shxaa-wont-make-ice/</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>Subzero 642 - squeaky door</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36544-subzero-642-squeaky-door/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[What is the recommended solution for a squeaky fridge side door on a subzero?  I don't want to spray something on it that will degrade the plastic bushing or make it worse.<br />
<br />
Thanks!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 16 Feb 2012 21:30:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36544-subzero-642-squeaky-door/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Adjusting icemaker cycle time on the icemaker in a Kenmore SxS refrigerator 106w10122507</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36543-adjusting-icemaker-cycle-time-on-the-icemaker-in-a-kenmore-sxs-refrigerator-106w10122507/</link>
		<description>Kenmore side by side with a MMAP 106w10122507 ice maker. Can the cycle time be adjusted to make cubes quicker?</description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 16 Feb 2012 20:22:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36543-adjusting-icemaker-cycle-time-on-the-icemaker-in-a-kenmore-sxs-refrigerator-106w10122507/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Force a defrost MZD2766GE</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36540-force-a-defrost-mzd2766ge/</link>
		<description>How do I Force a defrost on a  MZD2766GE, and if I have to force a defrost and the defrost element warms up does that mean the defrost board needs replaced? Hopefully it will be just the defrost bi-metal defrost, I have not even seen this unit, I want to gather info before I travel to my friends house.</description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 16 Feb 2012 17:09:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36540-force-a-defrost-mzd2766ge/</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>Frigidaire FRS26ZRF, side by side, ice build up in bottom of freezer section</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36539-frigidaire-frs26zrf-side-by-side-ice-build-up-in-bottom-of-freezer-section/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi first time user here.<br />
My Frigidaire refrigerator, side by side unit, Model# FRS26ZRF is building up ice in the bottom of the freezer compartment. Looks like it may be coming from the compartment that contains the coil (evaporator section?). The temp is still okay as the frozen goods are staying frozen. The other side of the unit (refrigerator) is operating normally. Is this a plugged line, defroster failure or something else?<br />
Many thanks,<br />
pojo60]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:37:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36539-frigidaire-frs26zrf-side-by-side-ice-build-up-in-bottom-of-freezer-section/</guid>
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		<title>GSS23WSTASS   GE SIDE BY SIDE REFRIGERATOR freezer keeps icing up</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36538-gss23wstass-ge-side-by-side-refrigerator-freezer-keeps-icing-up/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi,<br />
  I am having a defrost problem with the freezer icing up. The problem first started about 1 1/2 months ago. I realised that the freezer was 22 and the refrigerator was 55. I first thought that someone had turned the temperature down and it froze up. I let it melt overnight and then plugged it back in and within 8 hrs it was reading 0  37 and ice was being made so I was thrilled.It was running perfect(or so I thought) This is a rental so I am not always there and there wasnt anyone at the house.  I returned to the property yesterday and saw where the I was having the same problem. I pulled the plug and removed the interior panels and it was completely frozen. I let it melt overnight and this morning I did some testing. I took the back panel off to the control board and removed the blue wire connector and the white one below . I used the multi meter and put 1 probe in the middle terminal of the blue connector and the other in the furthest left terminal of the white connector(orange) got a reading of 35 or so . was bouncing back and forth. tested the heater and was reading 32 or so and I tested the defrost sensor and it was giving a reading of 10 to 11. I pushed the probes in the wire to just pierce the jacket and thats how I tested the defrost sensor. I put tape around the pin hole I made when I finished. I put the thermistor in crushed ice and tested from the control panel using the 4 and 5 terminals from the J1 connector. The reading was 14k. I also did the 3rd ,2nd 1st terminal for the other thermistors and got a reading of 5k which I believe is good because I didnt put them in ice. <br />
Did I miss anything?  Is there a way I can test the board to be 100% positive its the board? I need to use the freezer/refrig for 1 week and based on my last experience it appears that the freeze up occurs in about 2.5 to 3 weeks. is this a good assumption?<br />
Thanks<br />
Wayne]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 16 Feb 2012 15:30:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36538-gss23wstass-ge-side-by-side-refrigerator-freezer-keeps-icing-up/</guid>
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		<title>Whirlpool DU1055XTSS1 Flashing LED at Pots and Pans button and will not run</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36537-whirlpool-du1055xtss1-flashing-led-at-pots-and-pans-button-and-will-not-run/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Looks like an error code flashing on Pots and Pans selection.  The dishwasher will not run.  It is <strong class='bbc'><span class='bbc_underline'>not</span></strong> the control board. I put a new one in and the same problem exist with no improvment.  Any idea what could cause this problem?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 16 Feb 2012 15:23:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36537-whirlpool-du1055xtss1-flashing-led-at-pots-and-pans-button-and-will-not-run/</guid>
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		<title><![CDATA[Miele &#34;La Perla&#34; model G2830 dishwasher; very dead]]></title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36531-miele-la-perla-model-g2830-dishwasher-very-dead/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[My dishwasher has stopped working; no indications on the control panel.  I've checked the following items:<ul class='bbc'><li>power supply - OK (120VAC measured at wall plug)<br /></li><li>door latch - OK<br /></li><li>contact switch in door latch - OK (continuity check with multimeter)<br /></li><li>power to switch in door latch - OK (120VAC measured with DMM)<br /></li><li>door latch wiring - OK (continuity check).</li></ul>
Internally the wiring and control panels do not show any obvious signs of physical damage (no burning on PCB's, wiring visibly OK).<br />
<br />
One other tidbit of into.  for the past several weeks the dishwasher, after completing a wash, would remain unresponsive to button presses (no change to display and seemingly dead buttons).  This problem would go away after a period of time (typically an hour or more).<br />
<br />
Based on the above checks I assume that the problem is either:<ul class='bbcol decimal'><li>On/off switch (which is integral to the front panel).  I do not know how to verify the on/off switch as the front panel is touch screen type.<br /></li><li>A control panel problem (either the front panel or the internal control board).</li></ul>
<br />
Your advice oh Great Appliance Repair Sensei?<br />
<br />
Your humble student<br />
/JJ]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 16 Feb 2012 00:06:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36531-miele-la-perla-model-g2830-dishwasher-very-dead/</guid>
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		<title>GE ZE2160SF01 microwave - sensor error when cooking potatoes</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36530-ge-ze2160sf01-microwave-sensor-error-when-cooking-potatoes/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi, I am requesting a service manual for a GE micro model # ZE2160SF01.<br />
Thanks for your help.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Feb 2012 21:40:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36530-ge-ze2160sf01-microwave-sensor-error-when-cooking-potatoes/</guid>
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		<title>Whirlpool GU3600XTSY1 Dishwasher poor wash force</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36527-whirlpool-gu3600xtsy1-dishwasher-poor-wash-force/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[The dishwasher has weak spraying action. Seems like it does fill up with enough water but if you let it run for a while and then open the door and the top one third of the inside of the door is bone dry and the soap from the soap dish doesn't get washed out completely. I checked by increasing the water volume by pouring in a few full pitchers but that didn't make a difference. I also checked the pump motor intake filter which is known to get clogged in these model and that seemed fine too. Im thinking the wash pump motor needs to be replaced. Any insight appreciated. Thanks.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Feb 2012 20:00:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36527-whirlpool-gu3600xtsy1-dishwasher-poor-wash-force/</guid>
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		<title>Frigidaire frs20zrg, ice box, fridge side not cold on side by side</title>
		<link>http://appliantology.org/topic/36526-frigidaire-frs20zrg-ice-box-fridge-side-not-cold-on-side-by-side/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Ok, so i went threw some different steps outlined around this website, did the defrost test, nothing. took off the back panel/door i got cold fuzzy (lol) ice around coils. so i went to look threw the parts manual and i cant see ADC relay or control. I do see defrost timer that sits under the front lower left of fridge  kinda  by the wheel and then there is the defrost thermostat above the coils which one do i need ya know?<br />
<br />
to be honest, i dont know how i made it this far im amazing on cars, never tried to work on appliances till i shorted out the stove, haha guess we know what my next question is lol]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Feb 2012 20:00:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://appliantology.org/topic/36526-frigidaire-frs20zrg-ice-box-fridge-side-not-cold-on-side-by-side/</guid>
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