The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum

Whirlpool Duet front loading washer Model #wfw9200sq00 No Power

Thu, 23 Feb 2012 03:40:46 +0000

Machine has been reliable since I bought it in 2007. Three days ago was doing laundry, no problem. Next morning went to do laundry and machine had no power, no lights, nada. Checked power coming into machine from plug, there IS power at outlet. No tripped circuit breakers, no electrical problems at all in any other area of house. Had no previous fault codes leading up to this. Does anyone have any idea what the problem may be? Opened up washer, took top off, inspected harness. Everything looks nice and clean, no visual problems, all connections appear tight. Opened up back of machine, looked below did not see any visual problems. What can I do next? Laundry is beginning to back up, three kiddos producing stinky laundry, need to get this bad boy fixed quick.

maytag dryer MDG9206AWW with NO HEAT

Thu, 23 Feb 2012 00:45:02 +0000

replaces both coils, but still no heat. Runs but does not ignite.

Any ideas ????

Thank TOm

Top Load Washer Flooding/Mod#ATW4475XQO

Wed, 22 Feb 2012 23:51:51 +0000

I have a commercial client that called me today and informed me that the washer flooded again. This Appliance is in a Mental Hospital so it gets alot of use. Anyway I originally replaced the pressure switch on 2-01-2012. This switch has two pressure switches that come as an assembly. Any information on this appliance would be helpful whether it was recalled or could the chip in the switch just be bad out of the box. Lastly inlet valves closed fine when I originally tested the Washer upon repairing it. I let it fill at least 5 times going thru all the water levels.

Model# ATW4475XQO
Serial# C12141803

Frigidaire FEX831FS2 timer won't advance

Wed, 22 Feb 2012 23:43:45 +0000

Timer won't advance but will drain and spin when set to that cycle. I put a new timer in it and that did not solve the problem. Not sure what else could affect the timers advancement. Hope you can help.

Whirlpool Washer won't spin, makes terrible noise

Wed, 22 Feb 2012 23:18:21 +0000

I would include the model number but must wait for somebody to help me move the thing because it's on the back. I can see with a flashlight that this is a direct drive washer. It sounded fine until it hit high spin...it made a loud squealing noise and now if you put it on high spin (since the clothes are dripping wet) it makes a nasty grinding noise. It did drain, and I haven't smelled the laundry yet, but am fairly sure it did wash and rinse, as the clothes aren't soapy. Looking at FAQs....I see most symptoms fit needing a new drive coupler--would this be the general consensus? The washing machine is almost 12 years old now and has only ever needed a new lid switch, so if I can fix it for fairly cheap, I'd like to.

If you think the problem is worse than that......we'll have a service and go look for a replacement, but I'm afraid the equally aged dryer will be lonely.

Kenmore HE2 110.46462501 Washer Won't start the cycle

Wed, 22 Feb 2012 22:57:24 +0000

OK I have 2.5 year old Kenmore HE2 washer that is not working (Will not start the cycle). I have done enough research to run the diagnostics and pull the codes. One was for the temp. sensor (F24) , and the other was for the door latch (F22). I have done the multimeter tests found in the service manual. I realize this is a Whirlpool Duet model and used 8178558.pdf manual. I ran into the same issues as did others where the test shown for the door latch is incorrect in the manual. The center pin is common. You should be testing 1>2 and 2>3 with 60 ohms resistance on each. If you test pin 1>3 you get 120 ohms because you are going across both actuators. I get 60 and 60 if you test it properly per the wire diagram and ignore what the incorrect info in the book says. So the way I see it the latch is fine. It locks and I never get water or anything else after I push start. The temp sensor tests fine. I even went ahead and tested the pressure switch ,dispenser motor and line filter. Everything is testing fine. I think I have a bad CCU and I wanted a second opinion before ordering. Please help, maybe I've forgotten something?

Scott

Viking ED710KW419 Dryer has a burning smell

Wed, 22 Feb 2012 22:43:33 +0000

The last load of laundry I did had a potent burning smell to it. I've taken my dryer apart it's not a lint issue the dryer had minimal build up. I have noticed 2 other problems that might have caused the smell that I could use help with.

For those not familiar with Viking it's a department store brand from a now defunct department store in Canada Eaton's for looking at other posts it looks like this dryer is a GE product.

I've noticed that 1 of the 2 heating coils.. they run in a circle around the back of the dryer through ceramic holes has burned out.

I also noticed one of the pads at the front of the dryer that the drum rests on is looking chewed up.

would either of these cause this smell?

and would someone be able to suggest a part number so I can get a new heating coil to replace the burned out one regardless if it's causing the smell or not.

GE sxs model GSS20IEMBWW

Wed, 22 Feb 2012 22:19:44 +0000

Need tech sheet for this model!!! Frig and freezer work fine for two weeks the both sides don't stay at proper temps!! Good frost pattern no ice built up! Frig has had repairs in past including defrost tstat , defrost heaters , and I believe that's it ! How do I test thermistors and mother brd?

> GSS201EMBWW
> maybe
> GSS20IEMBWW
> topic model number corrected

Asko 10505 door seal question

Wed, 22 Feb 2012 22:15:32 +0000

Hi there folks. I have kept our ancient Asko 10505 going all these years (since '97) through many parts transfusions and much help from this forum. The latest problem was a small leak from the bottom of the door opening. So I removed the old "door seal" which seemed to have cracked - hope that's the problem, and purchased a new one:
http://www.repaircli...delNumber=10505, Of course, by the time it came, I had disposed of the old one and now I can't seem to get the new one in.

It's a question of which edge of the seal goes in first. This seal fits around the door opening in the machine, into the circular space created by an edge of this rubber gasket: http://www.repaircli...delNumber=10505 and the lip of the opening into the washer. The seal is a circular piece of plain hard plastic strip, almost rectangular when seen edge on, but for a slight lip on one side going all the way around. If you shove it around the gasket with the lip facing out, it just falls out again. So, you would think that this lip would have to fit pointing in rather than out, and would then click into place behind the metal ring formed by the edge of the door opening. But it is absolutely horrendously too tight to make this happen. Sure, maybe I'm just not being forceful enough, but I wanted to be sure before I break it (especially since it was the last one in stock).

To make this a little clearer, I actually found a page from the Service manual as part of the repairclinic.com image for the entire door assembly. http://www.repaircli...&locID=2176 If you look at figure 3 on the page, the screwdriver is pointing at the part I'm wrestling with. And the instructions on the page are actually about how to put it in! (along with everything else having to do with the door). But the images are not clear enough to tell which way the seal is inserted. So I wondered if anyone had ever done this and could give me some tips. Thanks!

Kenmore 417.44142400 Washer pump buzzing and stuck at rinse cycle...

Wed, 22 Feb 2012 21:19:59 +0000

I recently acquired a used Kenmore 417.44142400 washer and dryer. It worked fine for a couple of weeks (though smelly.) Cleaned it out and ran Tied anti-oxident smell removal stuff. Suddenly washer gets stuck on what appears to be the rinse part of the cycle. This will happen in all wash modes. Machine will fill, do initial agitation, will empty (I believe most of the way.) and will spin, including high speed spin, but will then get stuck, with a buzzing sound that I've isolated as coming from the water pump attached to the input hoses at the upper left of the the rear of the machine. If I advance the dial, it will move past the fill stage and go to the next agitation stage. (I've tried to re-run the washer from the inital phase several time to create a hacked washing experience, but it does seem that the water never gets fully out of the bellows area at the bottom of the machine, and though I've seen it empty water to below the inner drum level, I'm not sure if it is truly emptying. I've attached a shop vac to the drain hose to suck out the water when I've gone to work on the lower pump parts of the machine, and always end up with somewhat soapy water, despite having run several loads with nothing in the machine.)

Here is what I've done so far in terms of trouble shooting.

Replaced the mother control board (gonna be sending that back soon)
opened and cleaned the water removal pump and the hoses connected to it
Removed the tube from the water level control/pressure plate and blew through it to make sure the build up gunk had not clogged it.

I have a timer control that i got on ebay on the way, but what I don't understand is how the pump could bring in water in the initial fill, and then get stuck on bring in water during the rinse. Since I'm doing this repair myself, I'm just not sure how at this point to isolate the problem without getting every single related part and just swapping like a madman. My wife is getting pretty mad at me about having bought a lemon, and I frankly don't have the money do anything but get this working myself. Help!!

Fisher Paykel Top Load Dryer Model DEGX1

Wed, 22 Feb 2012 19:00:42 +0000

My Fisher Paykel Top Load Dryer Model DEGX1 is squeaking and I need to know how to disassemble the outer cabinet of this this machine.

Whirlpool WED9200SQ1 dryer - no heat

Wed, 22 Feb 2012 18:28:39 +0000

This dryer runs but does not heat. the small thermofuse will not show any ohms between the terminals. Could this be the problem?

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit

Item # 1175772

Thermal fuse and high limit thermostat kit

Manufacturer Number 280148

Whirlpool Duet WED9200SQ1 no heat

Wed, 22 Feb 2012 15:20:39 +0000

Whirlpool Duet WED9200SQ1 no heat, tumbles and runs fine.

I think this might be the problem,

Thermistor

Item #1181075 (OEM Part)
$28.65

Dryer thermistor assembly
Manufacturer Number 8577274
If it is the heat element what ohms should the heat element read?

Maytag Neptune Washer keeps stopping

Wed, 22 Feb 2012 05:27:08 +0000

Hi,

I have a Maytag Neptune MAH4000AWQ which I purchased in 2001. Couple of years ago, I had replaced the wax motor and a couple of burned resistors (triac?) on the main board.

For the last few days, it has been stopping all throughout the wash cycle. If I press start, it willl start again but will turn off after 30-45 seconds. Water is getting filled and emptied out. I don't see the tub turning though.

After some research, I pulled out the motor control board and checked it. There is at least one burned resistor. Should I try replacing the resistor or should I buy a board? I read about the new board/conversion kit/motor etc. for around $200 but I am looking to get this board repaired or replaced. I have seen some used boards on ebay. The model and part number match exactly - Model is AA19680-(E) and P/N is 627110600. But one difference I see with my board and the ones on eBay is that mine says REV 03 0009 where as the ones on eBay are REV 02 9837. "Use only with motor part number" matches exactly though. Should I buy this board and see if it works? Could my motor be damaged too? Is there any way to check the motor?

Thanks in advance for your advice.
Joe

White-Westinghouse washer WCI BW225ES0 (Canadian model)makes a loud squeaking upon spinning.

Tue, 21 Feb 2012 20:11:27 +0000

White-Westinghouse washer model WCI BW225ES0 (Canadian model) At beginning of spin cycle washer squeaks a lot. It's been happenning since I changed water seal kit 5308950197. Did I create a problem when trying to solve one? If I put lubricant, oil, or silicone around the shaft area, the noise disappears for a couple of washes, but always comes back. Bearing?

asko t761 dryer

Tue, 21 Feb 2012 15:25:32 +0000

i got an asko t761 main board has been replaced,giving me fault codes in languages other than english. followed manual to change to english but does not respond. new control board has jumpers on back,but cant figure what terminal to put them on or leave as is

WLW1500B not spinning <-- old washer

Tue, 21 Feb 2012 15:23:34 +0000

I know that this washer is probably due for the scrap heap, but if I can repair it that is preferable so I can buy a new washer when it is more convenient.

Symptoms: Washer was emitting an acrid cloud of rubbery smelling smoke, tub not spinning on the spin cycle. I thought it was the belt, but I'm not sure. After draining it and taking the back panel off, I can observe it better. The motor definitely turns the belt, the tub rotates slowly then hits a "stop" and won't turn further while the belt stays stationary and starts smelling.

With the machine off, I can manually turn the tub about 360 degrees either way before it hits a stop of some sort and won't turn further. I mention this because when I test it on the spin cycle, it is still unable to turn past this point. It slowly starts turning until it hits that stopping point and then remains stationary.

Is my transmission shot? I noticed many parts like this and the motor are no longer manufactured, which would effectively mean I need a new washer and that it isn't worth the time and frustration trying to fix it part by part if it is the transmission. I was going to try a new belt, because the current one definitely needs replacing--there is a bite in it from where the motor has turned against it while it didn't move (creating the rubbery smoke cloud). But after watching the washer on the spin cycle, I think the ruined belt is a symptom, not a cause of the washer not spinning.

If it helps, I can attach pictures. Thanks in advance for any recommendations.

Frontloading laundry preventative maintenance

Tue, 21 Feb 2012 03:17:51 +0000

To the Dojo--

Do any other grasshoppahs have specific advice about preventative maintenance for frontloading laundry products? For example, how often to change shocks, or how to get mildew off a boot seal?

Thanks in advance,
The Red Grasshoppah

LG WM2277HW Washer OE error but no water in drum

Tue, 21 Feb 2012 02:05:12 +0000

I'm getting the dreaded OE error. We have been getting it for some time. It has been intermittent, but tonight we are stuck. We have cleaned the filter and hoses and checked that the impeller is spinning. I'm trying to run a spin cycle but the machine runs the pump for 10 minutes and then throws an OE error. There is no water in the drum and I have drained the water from the little filter drain hose (about 3 cups) and with no water in the machine it still throws a OE error and will not spin or even rotate teh drum.
How does the machine sense that there is water in the drum? I'm thinking the problem is in the sensing circuit.

Thanks,
Mike

GE Little swan frontload washer wcvh6800j1mr

Tue, 21 Feb 2012 00:42:07 +0000

We recently had to replace a suspension spring on our washer as it broke during a cycle. After replacing it, we followed the manual directions to check all functions which checked out and the only thing hubby adjusted was the water level from 2 to1. Since we have tried to start reusing it, on any cycle it will go a bit, then stop and start blinking as it is paused..I have to hit start several times during a cycle, although the time does go down, it continues to stop, so what I have been doing is switching it over to drain and spin after a few times on wash cycle until the timer runs out but it takes forever to complete just one cycle. We have again checked everything and were wondering if when the spring broke, if perhaps the tub fell on the motor or something causeing it to do this. My machine is not that old, so I am praying it is an easy fix. Thank you.....

my frigidaire model# gltf2940fs1 washing machine will not spin in the drain/spin cycle

Tue, 21 Feb 2012 00:41:18 +0000

my frigidaire model# gltf2940fs1 washing machine will not spin in the drain/spin cycle

Fisher & Paykel GWL15 washer code help

Mon, 20 Feb 2012 20:02:07 +0000

My Fisher and Paykel GWL15 stops mid-cycle, usually during the wash cycle, and does its one-beep-per-second routine. I understand that the lights on the panel are actually giving an error code, and I was wondering if someone could tell me what mine means.

The panel has 5 lights together, than 3 together. Mine displays:

U U L U U ---- L U L

L = Lit
U = Unlit

Thanks in advance!

Maytag Performa electric dryer pye2300aye heating element stays too hot

Mon, 20 Feb 2012 15:00:51 +0000

Have replaced the thermostat twice and a fuse that probably blows when it overheats. I have cleaned out the front and back vents no blockage. Not sure what else to look at before I pitch it. It works but even on low heat the top of the dryer gets too hot and when you stop it, look inside you can see red. So having said all that I am leary about using it, any help would be appreciates.

LG wm0642hw washer OE error

Mon, 20 Feb 2012 14:26:42 +0000

OK, everything I have read about this error and all say it is a blocked drain somewhere. I did find a blocked drain tube which I have cleared, drains fine now. I also cleaned the filter. It runs through a spin cycle fine as well as a rinse and spin. The OE occurs during a wash cycle when switching from washing to rinse. Funny thing is that once the OE error occurs I press the start and stop button twice and the wash cycle contnues w/o a problem. Any Ideas? Also, I found a thread on a service manual for this model and found one, but the link does not work.

Forgot one thing. The machine sits at the switch to the rinse cycle and makes a louder than normal pump sound(sort of).

GE WHRE5260 top loading washing machine Stops unpredictably during the initial fill cycle

Mon, 20 Feb 2012 14:08:28 +0000

This GE top loader stops, without warning, at different points in the initial fill cycle although, at times, it will also be discovered stopped at other points in the wash cycle, usual though, when it happens it's during the initial fill
Thanks

Kenmore front load washer 417.48102701 won't cycle on after new motor control board

Mon, 20 Feb 2012 12:13:14 +0000

I've had this front loader washer for about 4 years and the other day the panel lights started blinking and beeping during cycles. According to the diagnostic sheets it read back a 43. I replaced the door lock. Still beeped and blinked when running. The next thing the tech sheet said was motor control board. Got a motor control board from Repair Clinic and installed that. Now the washer just blinks and beeps. It will not cycle on nor go into diagnostic mode. What should I do next?? Thanks, John

Whirlpool LSQ9264HQ0 Washer - No Agitate, drain or spin

Mon, 20 Feb 2012 05:09:23 +0000

this washer has served us well for aprox 12 years, but it seems to be giving up the ghost.

lately started making strange noises during the spin, then also during agitate, at the end of the cycle it smelled like something burned.

today it filled up and that's it. Humming noises for a minute and then it clicks off (I guess there's an overload safety shutting off). after a few minutes I can try again and only humming noises (and clicking from the clock/timer).

a couple of times I did manage to get it to start spinning by turning the dial to the spin and turning it on, but it would stop after a bit and start humming and give up.

I'm left with a tub full of water and piles of laundry.

thanks in advance for your help.

Maytag 70's model HA108 Washer squeals after spin and wobbles during spin

Sun, 19 Feb 2012 19:18:12 +0000

I recently obtained an older Maytag washer (free) in great shape. I replaced the inlet valve, as the water was not shutting off. That's fixed.

Now, when the machine goes into spin, the tub rocks a good bit, especially with heavy loads. When the spin cycle stops, it makes a really ear-piercing, high-pitched squeal.

My research indicates there may be two problems - the snubbing ring (or damper pads) are likely worn out, and the brake is probably glazed over or worn out.

I can't find a repair manual, so I just need some tips on how I can take this apart and replace these items. I'm very technically inclined, and used to help my older brother with his appliance repair business in the late 80's before his death, so I'm not exactly a novice, but certainly not an expert.

If anyone has a schematic repair diagram, I'd be grateful. I could probably figure this out myself, but it would be helpful to have a guide.

whirlpool stylemaster 4213632 rev b not spinning

Sun, 19 Feb 2012 18:01:06 +0000

I have a 20yr old whirlpool stylemaster.

It goes through the cycles fine, except it won't spin.

I hear a humming groaning noise when it is suppose to spin but it doesn't.

The water drains and it will go through the rest of the cycle.

I looked at the bottom and it appears that there is some oil coming from the 'transmission'.
Is that the transmission? What do I need to fix it?
Here is a picture of it.

Kenmore 417.29042991 front load washer, no agitation/tumble

Sat, 18 Feb 2012 20:44:03 +0000

Symptom = no tumble/agitation (motor movement) during wash/rinse phases, ie whenever "tumble" is called out in the phase description on the tech specs page.

Observations: Fill/drain and spin (all speeds & both directions) are OK. Door lock and line switch seem to function OK. Timer cycles (advances) properly. Ran thru motor movement diagnosis on tech sheet, all voltages are OK, motor winding ohms are OK. Found and repaired burnt terminal on connector (C8.2 org/blk) to motor. After that repair, still have above symptom. Inspected wiring and other connections all appear OK. Replaced motor speed control board, water level switch, timer and motor and still have above symptom.

Questions: Before abusing the parts return policy anymore, what else could kill the tumble function but still allow the motor to run in spin?

Is there a service manual available?

Maytag Neptune MAH400AWW Spin Cycle Noise

Sat, 18 Feb 2012 20:36:23 +0000

The washer spin cycle is extreamly noisy. It increases in noise level in proportion to the speed. Is it a bearing problem?

Bosch 500 Series Washing Machine Will Not Drain

Sat, 18 Feb 2012 20:27:11 +0000

I have a Bosch 500 Series washing machine that will not drain. We washed a bath mat with some sort of rubberized backing that appears to have disintegrated. We've washed this item before without problem. Now, it has rendered our machine useless.

We've removed the circular panel at the lower right front of the machine, opened the door and drained the water manually (by hand and wet/dry vac) and millions of small rubber backing pieces. We've done this about 6 times now and the machine still won't drain on its own.

There was a lady that posted on this forum a couple of years ago that was trying to resolve a similar situation for a friend (http://applianceguru.com/forum2/14805.html). She was able to resolve on her own, but someone (Samurai Appliance Repair Man) posted a page from the service manual on how to clear the pump.

Can someone lend a hand in figuring out how clear whatever remaining blockage we have? We clear out the water and floating particles, try to run a cycle and it goes on for a while but we eventually get the E:13 error. We drain and repeat and haven't been able to run a full cycle.

Thank you.

Maytag LDE7600 Dryer rear felt seal

Sat, 18 Feb 2012 17:31:54 +0000

I just replaced the rear felt seal and the two front glides. I also lubricated the rollers while I had it apart. Now the drum is really hard to turn and stops on a dime. Should I put some silicone lubricant on the felt? It also squeaks a little.

Whirlpool LA880XTWP top load washer agitator floppy

Sat, 18 Feb 2012 08:18:45 +0000

In theory, I purchased a used whirlpool topload washer for $200; however, it doesn't really work. The biggest problem, which I'm asking about only for purposes of returning it, goes like this: the washer pretends to agitate, but doesn't really do that. The model number is LA8800XTWO. Online, it looks like the lid of the agitator just pops off. On the one I have (in other words, not looking at pictures online), there is an additional piece, to which the top is apparently glued, that says "Liquid Fabric Softener Dispenser, "part no 389142 BL GR". This part doesn't appear in the visuals I've been able to find. Does this part go with this washer?

I found a site that says the agitator should not spin in both directions and if it does, the "dogs" are bad. Okay, here's the weird part I don't understand: If you stand facing the washer, you can spin the TOP of the agitator freely clockwise -- it just spins and spins and spins. The bad news is the bottom part of the agitator -- the part that you would have to remove a nut to get off -- doesn't move at all - so there is no real agitation, if you get my drift.

On the other hand, you CAN move the top part of the agitator counterclockwise as well and, yes, both the top and bottom part of the agitator will move if you move the top of the agitator counterclockwise.

I just ran it again and, yes, if I put my hand through the wash, the bottom part of the agitator is moving, but the clothes themselves are not moving at all. To me, it looks like the top part of the agitator is just way to wobbly to have any leverage to make the clothes themselves agitate.

Like I said, the washer has a bunch of other problems and is definitely going back -- but my question is - does that part 389142 belong to this washer? Is that what's making it not really agitate?

Thanks,
Table (???)

Whirpool LSB6300LW0 Washer does not separate all cycles

Fri, 17 Feb 2012 22:35:59 +0000

Hello good folks,

I am having an issue with my washer for over a week now, and decided to use the internet to research it.

About a week ago, I tried to clean around the basket (is that what it's called?), because the previous owners were not the cleanest people. During the process, I moved and shook around the basket (gonna call it the basket from now on) but I don't think I did any damage.

Now, I don't know if his is what caused the problem, but basically, when I start the washer it will fill up to the level I put it in, will go to wash cycle (but it spins way faster than it did before, to the point where water splashes on the lid), it will do rinse, than spin again, but during spin, it will fill up with water at the same time.

There are times during cycles, for example, between rinse and spin that it will sit idle, and I can hear a low clicking/humming noise from the timer. I opened it today and tried to see if any of the wires were out of place, put it back together, and it is still doing it.

I thought I'd order a new timer, but they are around $100, so before I do that, I thought I'd get an opinion as what it could here.

Anyone has any ideas? Thanks in advance.

My LG wm0532hw front load washer is not spinning or draining....... No codes

Fri, 17 Feb 2012 20:52:30 +0000

Also, throwing NO codes....... I have run the QC test mode (unplug for 20 mins or so to 'reset', then press the spin speed/soil level ...... Then X amount of pressing the start/pause button, to get it to do Y) In that, it will not spin or drain, no noise........... Any suggestions to help me 'narrow down' what is the problem (or did I 'lose' the pump AND something else simultaneously?) It does make a 'humming' noise (while not 'doing anything' during the cycle)

Kenmore 110.86874800 Elec Dryer does not heat or turn off

Fri, 17 Feb 2012 17:30:42 +0000

I've read a few very similar threads on this forum already but before I start replacing parts, I'd appreciate some help further diagnosing my issue.

The dryer does not heat on any setting, with or without the dryer vent hose connected. It blows air like crazy and doesn't appear to be blocked in any way.

The automatic section of the timer does NOT advance while the dryer is running. The two timed sections DO advance, but will not switch the dryer off. When the timer approaches the off area, it stops and the dryer continues to run indefinitely. If I manually turn the timer past the off switch click, the dryer will shut off and the appropriate buzzer will sound. I hear another click just prior to the off click down in the body of the dryer when turning the knob manually, so it's still triggering something when the physical position of the timer is moved.

I've included pictures of the back of the dryer. I checked the resistor to the right of the timer using a multimeter. It displayed 4.68 kOhms of resistance and didn't appear to be blown out or burned.

From previous threads, it appears this could be the resistor, the timer, or the heating element. Or a combination. I would really appreciate any help in narrowing down the cause.

Thanks folks, here are the images:

http://dl.dropbox.co...30/IMAG0012.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.co...30/IMAG0013.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.co...30/IMAG0014.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.co...30/IMAG0015.jpg

Kenmore HE3 gas dryer (110.92826102) won't start

Fri, 17 Feb 2012 07:31:14 +0000

I have a Kenmore Elite HE3 gas dryer (model 110.92826102). The front panel appears to be fully functional (it has power), but when I select a cycle and press the Start button I just hear a beep and a sort of muted "click" (of a solenoid?) from inside the dryer, but nothing else happens. This occurs when regardless of whether an "auto dry" or "manual", i.e. timed, cycle is selected. The drum doesn't turn a bit. However, the timer happily ticks down the cycle and beeps at the conclusion.

I removed the top, back and kickplate panels. After vacuuming out a ton of lint, I started doing some basic troubleshooting. I ran the front panel diagnostic tests as described in the tech sheet (MORE TIME -> LESS TIME -> MORE TIME -> LESS TIME) and all of the console switches and LEDs seem to be fine (i.e. pressing each switch controls the LEDs as described in the Tech Sheet).

The moisture sensor also appears to test out: when I bridge the two metal strips I get a beep and the two-digit display reads "02" (the Tech Sheet says that "a software revision number" displaying indicates the sensor is OK).

However, when I open the door in diagnostic mode, I get a beep tone and a "09" is indicated in the two-digit display. The TS says that I should get a beep tone and "a number and letter" on the display. This test seems a little inconclusive since the "09" could be interpreted as "O9" in which case I have a letter and a number on the display. The door switch test section of the TS it elaborates that the "number and letter" should be "i.e., '0E', '0G', '1E' or '2G', etc." When I close the door (or close the switch) the display goes back to "88," which is as expected.

In the "Moisture Sensor Test" section of the TS, it again has me put the dryer in diagnostic mode and open the door. Again I get a beep and "09" on the display. Here the TS states "if a beep tone is heard and a software revision number is displayed on the console as soon as the door is opened, a short circuit exists in the moisture sensor system." So, is "09" a "software revision number"?!? Does this "09" indicate a short in the moisture sensor or a faulty door switch circuit or neither?

So from the inconclusive door switch test, and the moisture sensor test, it appears my issue may be in the moisture sensor. I didn't have the time/patience this evening to complete the moisture sensor test. But before I invest the time in doing so, I just wanted to get a reality check: Does a diagnosis of a moisture sensor issue fit at all with the symptoms I am experiencing?

Other diagnostic tests I ran:

tested the thermal fuse which had continuity, i.e. it is "good".
tested both the main and start winding coils on the drive motor and both tested within the specified range for resistance.
test the belt switch which passed

Full disclosure:

Before these symptoms started I had disconnected and reconnected the dryer (to paint behind it). When I reconnected it, I forgot to turn the gas back on to it. My wife ran the dryer and it tumbled, but obviously never got hot. Once I turned the gas on, I started the dryer and it appeared to start and run normally (at least for the few seconds I remained in the room after starting it). A bit later, my wife noticed the current behavior when she attempted to re-run the cycle. It didn't appear to have dried the clothes much (at all) when it "ran" after I started it.

So, any guesses as to what my problem is likely to be? Any suggestions on what troubleshooting steps I should take next? Any assistance you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Maytag Bravo washer MVWX600XW0 makes clacking noise but won't run

Fri, 17 Feb 2012 05:24:30 +0000

I have a Bravo's mvwx600xw0. What this washer does, I put clothes in washer close lid, push start. Washer will go to "sensing" then I will hear is click, clack of the door lock no Locked.. Then I hear what sounds like BUZZ, GRRR GRRR from the washer. Then a few seconds later, I hear clip clack of the door lock, now unlocked. Then click clack of the lock no locked. Then I hear BUZZ, GRRR GRRR from the washer. A few minutes pass..........Then I hear Click clack door lock unlocked Then Water fills....... then... a long long while, I hear the growling of the pump as it pumps the water out... (door may have locked) but didnt hear it. Well.. Then I hear BUZZ, GRRR GRRR from the washer, does what it should do then fills, now is saying Rinse, soap is gone and then when I get back its seem to go thought all the process it needs to go soap, cream rinse.

Appartnetly the washer thinks, its doe what it was programmed to do.. Goes throught all.. NO CODES! Clothes are still dirty and soping wet. Now, I started the washer with it tipped back, there is a motor and belt. During this Buzz, GRRR GRRR the motor moves the belt and the washer pully forward then back then forward and back.. and thats it done. I did not wait for it to go to wash cycle to start. I knew something was not right with it. I do not get any codes. I have tried to hold the button down for 3 and 4 seconds releasing it for 3 and 4 seconds what I seen on youtube.com to get into the washers memory codes, but I cant seem to get in there using that processes.

Underneath on soundpadding, there is dusting from the belts, and the plastic cover seems to have melted spots, I can post pictures and a video soon. Once I have more time to get down there and work on it.

I have tried to look for a teardown, but I find only ones with direct drive.

Do you have a idea what it might be? Motor bad? or Transmission (gearbox) bad? a switch? little lost.. Next I guess I will try disasemble to see what looks bad worped or something.

on my Ge dryer model #DSXR453EVOWW what is the difference in drum slides

Fri, 17 Feb 2012 04:49:29 +0000

My Ge dryer calls for 2 different drum slides on the front drum bearing,What is the difference in them besides their color and part number??

Attached Thumbnails

GE Profile Washer WPRB9220DWW has E43 trouble code.

Fri, 17 Feb 2012 03:19:24 +0000

Can clear E43 code and washer works fine for several weeks, but comes back. Usually with towels or heavy load. Code says takes too long to brake/stop. What do I look for and how do I fix?

Kenmore washer 110 92272100 knocking noise while spinning

Fri, 17 Feb 2012 02:07:03 +0000

2 appliances break down in one day. My washer is making a horrible knocking noise during the spin cycle, really loud. Help!

Thank you!
Boxerloverto4

Kenmore dryer model 110.96283110 stopped heating

Fri, 17 Feb 2012 01:49:03 +0000

Hi there, the dryer worked fine this morning, went to use it this evening and it will not heat, it is running fine though. I know you can help me.
Thank you!!

Boxerloverto4

GE WSXH208A7WW washer noise during spin

Thu, 16 Feb 2012 18:41:02 +0000

washer makes clacking type noise only when spinning to the left. It seems like something loose on inner tub

Kenmore 110.66812690 electric dryer wont spin, heating element works

Thu, 16 Feb 2012 17:24:20 +0000

Hello,

Our dryer is not working.

Then heating element is on with the door open or closed.

The motor does not run under any circumstance.

I have checked several components with the multi meter

Door switch - works properly
Start switch - works properly
Thermal fuses - work properly except the one that looks like this http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Thermal-Fuse/3392519/2986?modelNumber=110.66812690 Which i will replace.

The motor spins freely when spun by hand.

The thing that concerns/puzzles me is that the heating element is coming on even with the door open or closed. The only way to make it turn off is putting the timer switch in one of the "off" positions or unplugging the whole unit. One of the wires that connects to the heating element appears some what melted or that it has been overheated.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Thank you

Maytag A712 top-loader washer squealed, smoked, won't spin

Thu, 16 Feb 2012 12:40:47 +0000

Maytag A712 washer started squealing during the spin cycle. Stopped washer, clothes rearranged, started again on spin. Washer started squealing again, and saw smoke! Tried to turn transmission, and it turns with difficulty by hand. Am not sure what other steps to take to diagnose, and would happily contribute to the brew fund in exchange for some advice. Also would appreciate opinions about whether to replace machine, if transmission appears to be shot. Most humble thanks!

GE dryer model DSXR453EVOWW sounds like galloping horse during drying cycle

Thu, 16 Feb 2012 03:21:51 +0000

I have recently replaced the dryer slides on my dryer with home made teflon slides.(dryer was squeeling terrible, at least thats what my wife tells me). Anyway, after inspecting the front drum bearing and finding the slides badly worn I made 4 new ones from sheet teflon. Now when i start the dryer all is well. After it has been running for several minutes it beginis to sound like a galloping horse until near the end of the cycle when it sounds normal again. Can you help me please. Also, how far around the front of the drum does the felt seal go. Thaks in advance for all your help. Mike

Maytag LDG7304AAE Dryer Motor Rewiring

Wed, 15 Feb 2012 20:57:06 +0000

I am replacing the motor in my dryer (among several other parts). The new motor has a different wiring block. Part of the instructions do not make sense to me (Instruction Sheet W10408722 Rev A 4/11).

The insturctions indicate I should connect the red wire to the new motor at terminal #5 and the blue wire should be connected to terminal number 1. But in the last column of the table of connections (in a cell for red and blue), it says to "Reterminate the Red and Blue Leads in the same 1/8" Insulated Terminal and Connect to Switch Tab 5". It sounds like I am being instructed to attach blue to both #5 and #1. How do I do this? Should I apply Quantum Mechanics?

The red wire comes from the console above. The blue wire is actually a white wire from the console above joined with a blue wire from the door switch into a terminal which was connected to a blue-dot labled terminal on the old motor. I am assuming that this is what they mean by the "blue" wire.

All of the other colors match the instructions and are connected and accounted for.

I tried to post a picture of the section of the instructions I am referring to, but it did not seem to take.
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I just went to the hardware store and a widely known electronics store and neither place had 1/8" terminals. They do have 3/16" inch so I guess I could use those or just crimp down the 1/4" terminals and set up a blast radius around the laundry room.

FP GWL11 Code 37 error

Wed, 15 Feb 2012 04:00:17 +0000

Help! Have a code 37 error. Machine does fine thru wash cycles, and drains properly - as far as I can tell, but as soon as the wash cycle indicator goes out and it shifts to rinse mode, the pump kicks on for a few seconds then machine stops, and the dreaded beeping starts. Code 37 indicated by adding the lights -OOXOO XOX- (but the troubleshooting guide that came with the machine says it is a code 39). In diagnostic mode, pump works fine. Diverter valve functions properly, with normal pressure during both drain and recirculation modes. R&R'd hoses and pumps - found no obstructions. Not sure where to go from here....

Maytag PAV2300AWW Stopped Mid Cycle Burn Smell No Power

Tue, 14 Feb 2012 22:32:55 +0000

Hello,

My Maytag PAV2300 top load washer stopped in in the final rinse/spin cycle. There was a burnt rubber smell, the barrell was full of water (and towels), and the washer did not respond to anything as if there was no power. I had it unplugged for about 20 minutes and then plugged it back in and tried again and it worked. I put it on the final spin cycle and it spun and removed the water just like normal. No apparent problems.

What happened? And what do I need to do now? Repair something? (I'm a DIY'er, please be specific.)

Thanks,
Craig