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  1. I'm replacing the cold water inlet valve on my Kenmore washer.  I read your how to here, but it simply said to remove the wires.    My problem is that the tabs the connectors wires are in are _very_ firmly attached to the tabs on the old valve.  That combined with the fact that the wires are about as thick as a hair and my paws are kind of gnarled and arthritic makes me afraid to just force them off - I might break the wire(s).   Is there a trick or a special tool needed to do this?  There's a picture below of what the connectors look like.   Also while I have your ear, when I connect the new ones, should I give the metal tabs on the valve a smear of dielectric grease before snapping them in?   Thannk you.   (Sorry for the giganto image.  I don't know how to size them with this richtext control.)    
  2. LG Dishwasher In-Door Wire Loom

    From the album Dishwasher Repair

  3. Correctly Wired Dyer Terminal Block For A 4 Wire Dryer Cord

    From the album Dryer Repair

  4. Back of an LG Washing Machine Showing Rotor and Wire Harness

    From the album Washer Repair

  5. File Name: Whirlpool Double Oven Techsheet model RBD305PDS14 File Submitter: kdog File Submitted: 16 Nov 2012 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Specific Model Techsheet Whirlpool Electric Built In Double Wall Oven Model RBD305PDS14 PART NO. 8302068 French and English Francais au Enlais Click here to download this file
  6. Version pdf

    42 downloads

    Specific Model Techsheet Whirlpool Electric Built In Double Wall Oven Model RBD305PDS14 PART NO. 8302068 French and English Francais au Enlais
  7. File Name: Whirlpool Dryer Wiring Diagram LER5636JQ0 File Submitter: kdog File Submitted: 14 Oct 2012 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Wiring Diagram Only for Whirlpool model LER5636JQ0 Electric Dryer Click here to download this file
  8. Version PDF

    30 downloads

    Wiring Diagram Only for Whirlpool model LER5636JQ0 Electric Dryer
  9. Hello again, ninjas. So today I replaced the drain hoses on my tenant's DD603, per this thread. Overall the job seemed to go okay, and I confirmed that both of the hoses were in fact clogged. However, the hose/wire loom routing was a bear. After I replaced the hoses and got everything back together, neither one of the drawers would close smoothly and completely. The upper drawer will seal if you keep it firmly pushed in while starting it, but the lower will not; it gives the five tone warning if you try to start it. On the plus side, when I ran a cycle on the upper drawer it drained fully, so at least something is working. Obviously the hoses and wire loom aren't laying properly when the drawers are closed. Are there any tricks to getting this right? I found it particularly hard to get the length of the drain hose precise. Also, I noticed here that the link support kit with the wire hanger is now recommended for both top and bottom drawers. We have the link support on the upper drawer, but the lower drawers has a stiff nylon wire with three cable clamps. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. My tenant's getting annoyed, so if I can't get this resolved quickly I'll probably have to resort to a professional (which I perhaps should have in the first place ). Thanks again for your help! /adam
  10. Jumper Wires In Appliance Repair

    From the album Miscellaneous

    Originally posted in this topic in the Laundry Forum.
  11. In the schematic, I'm told to disconnect the wire harness going to the motor so that I can check the current. Problem: I can't get it to separate. I've checked the C9 connections on the control panel (2.8 on all) but this "glitch" has kept me from being able to check the wiring going directly to the motor. Additionally, what should happen when the output board test is started? I'm wondering because NOTHING happens that I can see when I start the diagnostic test from the diagnostic mode. I've been getting the E3 and SUdS errors for some time now and finally have the info to do this. Because of the seeming no response, I am wondering if it is the CCU and not the motor but I would like to make sure of this. Thanks. (yes, female, but not my first DIY repair rodeo)