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  1. Hi, Why is my GE refrigerator model# GTS18KCMARBB defrost drain/line continually freezing, resulting in leaking water from freezer into lower 'fridge? My GE refrigerator model# GTS18KCMARBB is leaking water from the freezer into the lower 'fridge. I unclogged the freezer defrost line about a month ago and the leaking stopped. But the leaking has continued and after opening the back of the freezer I found that the defrost drain was once again filled with ice. I will unclog it like I did the last time but would like to not have to do it again in 1-2 months. Is the entire drain line to the drain pan clogging? If so, can I do anything with the drain line such as modify any attachments to it such as a grommet (if there is one)? Is there something malfunctioning rather with the defrost timer? Thank you in advance for your time and assistance. Sincerely, Tim
  2. I'm wrestling with a defrost issue with Frigidaire side by side. Had it serviced by a tech due to a drop in temp and alarm beeping. Coils were completely encased in ice. After manually defrosting, heater and defrost thermostat were tested to be within spec. Conclusion of the tech was " bad main control board". Quoted price was 300.00 plus labor. I sourced the part locally (new) and replaced it myself. Fridge came to temp quickly and held with no issues for about a week then the same symtoms appeared - back wall and coils completely iced over, obviously not defrosting. What do I look at next?
  3. Happy new year to all! My question is which or if a universal defrost timer may be used to replace factory defrost timer SONXIE # DBZA-1608-2D3 it's a low end frige need to keep repair  cost to a minimum. Would appreciate any suggestions.  Thanks, George 
  4. Made a call today for a frozen freezer warm refrigerator.  Parts house did not have bimetal, control board or thermistor in stock, have to make a order from ware house 2 days away.  Client is a friend who makes killer tamales. (Yea I work for food).  Cant put into defrost with normal WP key dances.   Evaporator solid block of ice.  Compressor just pumping away.  Temp -14.   Defrost with steamer to get access to limit.    Limit looks OK  will  meter it when I put into diagnostic defrost cycle.Freezer Thermistor is in channel running to light receptacle at front of freezer. As I work at melting ice I notice that refrigerator door switch controls Evap fan.   nothing else unb usual.    Have way thru job I push & hold on off button on user interface control board.   Lights on interface power off as well as Evap & condenser fans.  Compressor keeps on pumping.    Hit the evap coils with stem which melts frost & it frosts right back up.   Thinking control board got to be a little bonkers.   Pull up a service sheet for a 106.74202402 here on Apliantology,  close enough I guess.  Entry into diagnostic mode is different than I have done before.  Tomorrow I will try to put it into defrost to see if it will go before ordering a new board.   This unit is 10 years old, something I have not seen.  Even the IM is different, has a squirrel cage fan mounted to the module head.     All positive comments welcomed  I am leaning toward new board.
  5. Two issues here, I think.   First and most critical:  Frost build up in freezer and  ice blocking the two vents at the roof inside refrig compartment.  (So far,  I've unplugged unit, melted all ice, and removed back panel of freezer)   Second:  Refrig. compartment has always been slow to recover from door opening.   Takes forever for it to get back to temperature. (Has  been like this since I bought it 4 1/2 months ago at Salvation Army.)   Thanks
  6. LG bottom freezer has ER DH on display. OK, First of all, this fridge does not have a cooling issue and does not have ice building up in the freezer. Defrost heater and terminator are closed. Defrost thermistor is showing correct readings. The board does defrost in test mode. Customer explained the fridge made some loud clicking noises repeatedly and then had the error. He explained that a week or two later the same noise was heard and the error has now gone away. It has continued without error for 2 days now. I reccomend starting out by changing the thermistor/terminator assembly but I am betting it's the board. Maybe someone has seen this issue before. Also, I have had quite a few LGs that have had wiring issues, I found this by trying to test the DF heater from the board and read open, but when going in the replace the heater it tested food. This issue may be happening intermittently. ANY help is aprecciated.
  7.  i am a service tech . with a small company . i have a ge  refrigerator  model pfs22misbb or pfs22m1sbb   the cust called me and said the freezer was at -9 f  and the refrig was at 50 f . i went out to check it the evap coils were completely  frosted over . so no air could pass through them  so the refrig would be warm . i removed the frost build up off the coils   checked the defrost thermostat  was not popped  i left enough frost around it to check to make sure it was closed . it was the heater was fine  i used my meter to check it . the evap fan was running . so i thought ok heater is good thermostat good has to be the main board . change the board . told the cust givwe it 24 hours to get stable  . week later cust calls , keith its doing it again same thing .go out sure enough coils frosted over again . i spoke to my buddy who worked with ge for awhile . he said the evap fan may be stopping . ok go and change that . week later same thing coils frosted over again .i am going crazy at this point . i went back yesterday replaced the defrost thermostat . i noticed there are 3 thermistors  used in this unit the parts break down shows 2 . . i saw one tied to the evap coil in the freezer . it was the old style . i remembered samsung had a issue with the defrost thermistor on their units . i cant find any diagram of this model and dont have connections to ges tech support . so i changed the thermistor  on the evaporator line . at this point i dont know what more to do . if anyone has any leads please let me know 
  8. I have the afore mentioned Samsung Side by Side refrigerator Model # RS267RSLB. The defrost heater is not working. I have defrosted the substantial ice build up on the refrigerator side manually and for a couple of weeks the refrigerator will work fine for a couple of weeks. I know the ice buildup is occurring when the refrigerator rises to 50 degrees and won't go lower. I assume the defrost heater assembly needs to be replaced. However parts catalogs for this model show Samsung Part Number AP5588117 The defrost heater currenty installed is different in appearance, it covers the entire evaporator coil,, Any suggestions on how I might find the correct part number? I am also not sure how to test the entire defrost heater assembly end to end, will continuity when at cold temps confirm it is good?    ​Your help and guidance would be much appreciated.  John in North Carolina
  9. GE SXS fridge: MOD: GSL25JFTCB   I havent been out to this call yet but customer complains freezer is defrosting items and melting ice, then refreezes stuff, and ice clumps together.  I haven't found anything here on appliantology about it for this model. Anybody heard of this problem before? Or on other models?  What may cause this?  Thanks 
  10. Appliantologists,   The clothes washer in question is a Kenmore 110.24832200, about 12 years old according to a serial number search I did (I bought it refurbished about 3 years ago).  On a fast spin cycle it gradually gets more and more out of balance until the washer is dancing around and there is the occasional banging sound.  It performs OK on the slow spin speed, although you can see that the drum is out of balance.   The leveling of the cabinet is good.  I've checked it across the front, across the back, front to back on each side and also corner to opposite corner.  The self leveling legs at the rear seem to be working perfectly.  I checked the leveling of the tub with the cabinet removed.  It seems good and the tub returns to a level position.   The suspension springs look good, although I don't know what to look for when examining them, so I might miss it unless it's something obvious like one being broken or disconnected.   The counterbalancing spring and the leveling spring (at the back) are rusted but intact and in place.   I've read about snubber or wear pads on these that can also wear down and cause this problem.  Don't know if these were replaced when the washer was refurbished, and I haven't removed the drum to check them.   My question is, do these symptoms seem more like spring symptoms, snubber pad symptoms, both, or something else?  I'm thinking they are more like spring symptoms because of the way the drum gets up to full speed for a while and the vibration develops, getting worse and worse.  But I'd like to get some second opinions about diagnosing or fixing this:  replace all the springs, including the suspension springs or just replace the rusted leveling and counterbalance spring?, or replace the pads? or both? or something else entirely?   Thank you!    
  11. My Whirlpool LSR7233EQ0 is not draining or completing the wash cycle. I fills with water and agitates but when it reaches the point where the dial progress past the initial wash state it just stops. If I turn the dial back to the beginning it will agitate again. I dsiconnected the water and tried it again but at that point it would not even agitate.    any insights would be greatly appreciated as I have about 6 loads of kids laundry and my wife is taking her bi-monthly vacation so I will have to deal with this situation by myself.
  12. There was a lid lock failure on this machine, unit would click under the hood in an attempt to lock the lid, then click, then click appearing to never confirm lock at the control and never beginning to fill.  Door was never physically secure, lid would lift freely after each click. Replaced door lock and tested, unit locked and began cycle, machine seemed to test good. Now the issue appears to be what I think is called the "never ending cycle" a test mode that whirlpool has where machine will not pause between washes, but complete a cycle, drain and then fill and begin a cycle again. If this is the issue, I know there is a key dance across the control, unplug unit etc. to get back into regular use mode. I Was hoping someone may have that information. Or could there be a secondary failure that I have overlooked associated with the door lock failure.   Thank you  
  13. Looked at this fridge last week.Customer complaint leaking water every now and then. Found a nice sheet of ice at the bottom of the freezer side. Got rid of all the ice and noticed that the evaporator  cover goes all the way to the bottom of the freezer side.(Not like the older models that had a small gap that gives access to the drain-hole) .Did not have time to start taking apart the 2 rails that hold the shelves to get the cover out. When I looked at the back of the fridge the motor compartment only takes up 1/2 the width of the fridge and no access from the back to the drain-pipe.Is there a smart solution for this problem or do I have to go back next week and do it the hard way. BTW when I go back I was thinking to cut a 2 inch hole in the back panel and cover it with some 1/8 thick sticky rubber insulation material that would give me or the customer easy access if it reoccurs.   Any suggestions appreciated  !!!   Can someone please tell me if there is  a way to perform a forced defrost on this model?
  14. GE FUF14DADRWH Have had trouble with this almost since it was new - probably since it was new but it just took a while for ice to build up and cause a problem.  Ice builds up in the bottom below the coil and eventually plugs the air flow into the coil.  I pulled the unit apart and checked the heater and thermostat.  Thought the thermostat was bad but think I just didn't get it cold enough.  Put things back together and put a wattmeter on the input.  Then advanced the defrost timer to trigger a defrost.  At that point it had been running a few weeks since manual defrost and had a bit of ice in the bottom with the drain plugged by ice.  Here is what I got:   Time      Current     Watts 6:31         1.86        123       Running normally 6:32         3.47         401      Start if defrost  6:39           0.01       1.7       Heater cut off 6:54          2.19         172     Compressor restarts 7:37          1.91         134      So it seems the defrost is working.  Is this just a design issue and I will have to manually defrost the freezer every 6 months?  That wouldn't be that bad.  Don't want to replace parts if it isn't going to fix the problem.   If I go the manual defrost route is there any reason I shouldn't disconnect the defrost heater?  I suppose the coil may frost up quicker?   TIA for any help.        
  15. I need help finding information about the code in the defrost blinking light and/or wiring diagram to isolate the problem of no running of the compressor except for unplug and then replug and unit goes into defrost mode momentarily then shuts down.
  16. Hello,   The coils in my freezer are icing up & blocking airflow. The defrost thermostat tested good, so I think I might have a bad defrost control board as I'm not getting power to the heater element. I tried to force a defrost cycle by opening & closing the freezer door switch 4 times in 8 seconds, but didn't get power to heater. Is there anything else I should be checking? This board has been discontinued; is it possible to wire in a mechanical defrost timer & do away with the board?   Thanks!
  17. Unit won't defrost. I have followed various troubleshooting/repair guides on line and finally replaced the main board. Unit still won't defrost on its own or by using the self diagnostic mode. I am at a complete loss as to what the problem might be.
  18. File Name: Frigidaire Refrigerator - Freezer ADC Defrost Activation Procedures File Submitter: Applianceman97 File Submitted: 10 Jul 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Frigidaire Refrigerator/Freezer Defrost Activation, This includes defrost activation for various models of frigidaire and electrolux models Click here to download this file
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    Frigidaire Refrigerator/Freezer Defrost Activation, This includes defrost activation for various models of frigidaire and electrolux models
  20. I have a Samsung RF26HFENDSR/AA that was serviced due to ice buildup apparently from a control module that wasn't signaling the defrost cycle.  They steamed it out and a couple weeks later replaced the part (had to order it).  After replacing it I had some noise comeback, but they didn't clean it out when they came back.  I did a bit of a defrost by leaving the freezer open with the power off, but I was wondering if there was a way to manually trigger the defrost cycle.  I've read in the blog here how to do it, but it's for a different model (same with some youtube videos).  Does anyone know the sequence for this model?  I'd a newer, french door model.  Holding down power freeze and freezer turns cooling off.
  21. Hello!   LG WM210H washing machine approx. 5 years old.  Washer stops prior to beginning spin cycle and shuts down with regular-sized load.  At times, will begin cycle for short time but will then shut down and fuse (in home fuse box) has been blown a couple of times at this point.  Will run VERY SMALL loads, approx. 4-5 items, but nothing heavy.  Have a pretty handy hubby but not sure what needs replacing.  Please help - we need clean underwear!   Thank you!!
  22. This built-in 2-3 year old fridge builds up ice in rear freezer section. Got it apart back to the evaporator and found ice built up below it, behind the back panel. The customer had already defrosted the rest of the ice. Found the defrost drain with a heater inside. There is a plastic cover around the evaporator and could not see how to get it off and gain access to ohm out the drain heater, etc.   Is there a corresponding Samsung model # I can use to find a service manual? Did not have time to roll it out and look at the bottom end of drain tube. Lately on fridges in general I have been making the Whirlpool P trap kit work at bottom of the drain if there is just a straight tube at drain pan, rather than installing/replacing a drain heater. Seems to be working out, so was wondering if I can go that way instead of replacing drain heater.   Thanks!     John Frary J T Appliance Service Los Alamos, NM Main Tel. 505-412-3781 Direct Cell 505-709-0079
  23. Morning, I have a question regarding an LG Tromm washer we recently purchased from a previous owner. Washer was working fine, until recently, I noticed washer had leaked water. That got fixed on its own, then noticed that a couple of times, clothes was left damp after cycle ended. And now washer seems to get stuck on rinse cycle for quite a long time as to where it forces me to shut water off and washer itself. Water continuosly pours in non-stop for up 45 mins if I don't shut water off while display show rinse mode and minutes do not change at all. Read and did appliance test as suggested on an previous post "LG WM0642HW TROMM washer FE error" where I found out water kept on pouring in through detergent dispenser area and no water inlet what so ever when it hit the bleach area. I however do not get any error code and wanted to find out if same part numbers for water valves apply to my model? Any advice and help will be extremely appreciated as clothes are piling up, and not to mention sticky pile on floor after washer failed to properly wash or dry them prior to my giving up on sticken thing. Thank you, eager to hear any suggestions and/or ideas.      
  24. blocked or frozen drain tube right?  Notorious for evap leaks w/iceball in bottom left.
  25. Hello all,    My first post although I've used infor on this sight main times! I have what may be a unique problem or perhaps not........ My Kitchenaid French door lower freezer model KFIS29PBMS00 does not cool in the upper fridge section. There is a smaller condenser coil in this upper section that does frost up and will eventually ice over. The lower main coil in the freezer section does not frost up or ice up so I know the heater etc is working. I thought perhaps the evaporator fan and thermostat may have an issue and replaced them. Still, upper fridge is not cooling enough. I dont know how it gets it's cool air as the lower freezer does cool the "pantry" drawer that has it's own temp control and that works fine. Everything else in the upper fridge does not cool sufficiently. I believe this fridge uses a dual coil system. So, is the problem that upper coil and what can I do to fix the issue?   Thanks very much!   Bluemoon