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  1. Washer 110.28002010

    Need to know... The output of the motor control circuit should only put 120VAC on one winding (CCW or CW) at a time? If I measure the output of the control board I seem to get 120VAC on both windings, at the same time.The start capacitor checks good, so I'm thinking the Triac circuitry may have gone bad. It there a way the triac for the motor control can be replaced, instead of the whole control board? Whenever the motor is supposed to drive (spin, agitate) it just hums. As I said, there is 120VAC on both windings at this time. I would assume during spin, it should only have 120VAC on one winding (CW or CCW).... Have run the diagnostics and it keeps saying replace main control board. Seems there is a less expensive way to repair, $220.00 may be more than it is worth....
  2. Replacing the condenser fan motor and forgot to look which way the fan should have been placed back on the new motor.  I think the air flow should go over the coils and NOT towards the condenser, but the motor is pulling the air that direction.  1.) Is there a way to change the direction of the air flow (I don't think so) and 2.) if not, can it go towards the compressor without a problem?...if I leave the access panel off and allow the heat to escape?  I ordered the part from your affiliate (Appliance Parts Pro) and this is what they sent me....thanks in advance.
  3. Looked at this GE SXS last week. Customer complaint fridge was too warm in both compartments. Fridge 8 degr Celsius and Freezer - 5 degr. Celsius. Cond. fan motor was barely rotating. Compressor very hot and cut out on too high temperature. Took the cond fan motor out to check at home as per Samurai Video. Fan motor is fine. Left the fridge with a domestic fan behind the fridge to cool compressor and condenser coil. Fridge and freezer are working fine now. The motherboard is very hard to get here and very expensive!!.Leaves me with the option of having the original board repaired which leaves the customer with no fridge for a week. Can anybody tell me if I can install a small 220 volts fan motor like on the Amana 3 door bottom mount  G37025PEAS   Maytag Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor Part number: W10246191     and supply it with 220 volts by wiring it parallel to the compressor supply.( good old regular compressor).   This would give me the option of cutting cost for costumer leave with a very nice margin and probably a very happy customer who has not to manage a week with no fridge.   Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.
  4. Unit had a noisy spin, gearcase leaking oil. I replaced the gearcase under extended warranty. I also replaced the cam assembly because it was loaded full of oil. Everything is running very smooth now. No Codes showing. I noticed the drive motor seemed hot. Around 126 degrees. Does anyone know if this is normal? I could not find any information on this subject. I eliminated any extra drag that may have occured with a gearcase going bad. The shift mechanism is working normally. Actually the machine is working great, but I have never noticed a motor getting that hot before.  
  5. Turn on, and it sounds like a blower motor. Drum doesn't turn, no other action.
  6. I am trying to replace the pump/motor assembly in my dishwasher.  Unfortunately, it seems that it's so old (at least 15 years) that the model number isn't listed anywhere online.  I ordered the part that was listed as the replacement for all washers made after 1970 (Part number: WD26X10013 ) but my existing pump doesn't look like any of the removal/replacement illustrations in the instructions.  I'm having trouble seeing how this part will fit, as the connection to the impeller doesn't seem to be the simple hose that all of the videos show.  IOW, even after I have disconnected all hoses, wires, and the hanger, I cannot simply "remove" the motor. Any help at all, even "You're SOL - just return the part" would be useful at this point!
  7. OK... getting a 3E error on my maytag MAH8700A washer.   Need to check the resistance on the 1,2,3 pins to see if they are around 3 Ohms.  OK.  Problem is... I cannot for the life of me figure out how to unlock the molex connector to the motor.  How do I release the lock?  DOH!    
  8. We replaced the blower housing after plastic broke around the shaft's nut.  Reassembled and the motor hums but nothing turns.  Motor shaft and blower blades turn easily by hand.  With the drum out, when we turn the blades by hand and start it, it seems to catch and spin about 2 seconds without a hum, then we hear a click and it turns off.    Tested the thermal fuse with a multimeter - is OK.  Cleaned and double checked all connections are correct.    Before the blower housing repair, the drum was still turning and drying clothes, it was just noisy at the beginning and end (from the blower housing blades spinning/bouncing a few extra times).   Any suggestions? ... please?
  9. Okay, I'm an appliance dummy, and maybe an ohmmeter dummy as well. Had the F25 (motor tach) code show up. Pulled it out, checked the hoses, wiring, filter, the usual stuff. Got into the plug-in connectors to check the ohms on the motor(s), and it makes no sense. The Motor plug-in block reads (from the top downward):   1-2 = 0 ohms  2-3 = 0 1-3 = 0   At the corresponding panel (the white box on the side, where the harness goes back to): 1-2 = 18 ohms 2-3 = 4, but then goes up to 1K 1-3 = 1K   While I was at it, I tried the two poles on the little pump motor below the tub: 0 ohms.   Okay, I realize I've got a little POS GB Instruments (GMT-312) multimeter(0 to1K), but come'on. Yes, the battery's new & I did zero it.   What's up with the readings? Any feedback appreciated.
  10. Greetings Appliantologists!   The wife and I let our screeching washer go too long before addressing the problem and it is now dead. No power.   I have: Unplugged it, waited several minutes, and plugged it back in with no change.  
  11. I have a 2001 Frigidaire Range.  Three times recently the motorized oven door lock has activated and locked the door without the Self-Cleaning feature being selected.  Twice it happened when the oven was in use.  The 3rd time was about 15 minutes after the oven had been turned off.    Looking at the Wiring Diagram, it appears that the EOC (Electronic Oven Control) is the only thing that could cause this failure.  I can't see how a motor failure could do it.  The EOC is a very pricey unit.  Can someone confirm for me that this is the logical place for the failure?   Also, my tenant is afraid that the self-cleaning cycle is going to start on its own, but I have told them that the motor wouldn't start the self-cleaning cycle.  Yet, if the EOC is failing, I suppose it could cause that failure also.  Should they be concerned?   Thank you!
  12. Have been investigating and watching videos, etc. for my LG dishwasher LDF7811ST, including this video by ( ).  I have checked the wires behind the door, they look fine. I have checked the impeller for debris ... no debris, but impeller doesn't turn by hand (should it normally)   So it sounds like the vario motor is probably the problem.   Should I replace just the vario motor (about $80) or the whole sump assembly (about $134). If there is absolutely no reason to replace the whole thing, that makes sense, but if there is a chance that the whole assembly could have issues, I'm glad to replace that too (make sure the whole thing is operating well with good gaskets, etc.)   Are there any other possible things to look for, or am I in the right direction?   Thank you!
  13. Recently, My frigidaire dishwasher circulation motor started making a winding noise. I opened the door and the jets were not running or moving at all.  I pulled the dishwasher out and flipped it over on its back after turning off the power supply. Then removed the motor and inside the cover there was dust like pencil led. So I removed the motor and turned the power supply back on and the motor is running in reverse so the impellers cant force the water into the jet arm to wash the dishes. My gut tells me its a bad motor,but could it be the control board? 
  14. My washer was making a grinding noise partway though the wash, and after poking around online and in the washer I realized that the motor coupler was broken.  I ordered a new (plastic) coupler and replaced the broken one and thought I had the problem licked. When I tried running the washer with a small load to test that everything was ok I noticed that the tub wasn't spinning (I had removed the lid latch switch so I could operate it manually- it works), and removing the motor again I determined that the coupler was stripped, possibly because I did not mate the coupler firmly enough with the motor.   I replaced the stripped half with the unbroken old coupler half making sure that it was firmly seated, and tried to run a load, and it promptly cracked.  Did I do something wrong, or is there something else wrong with the washer leading to the failed couplers?  The tub turns both CW and CCW without too much difficulty, and the transmission shaft turns by hand CCW for a few turns and then needs a wrench for a turn before becoming easier in a cycle, and CW can be turned by hand for a few turns and then starts to turn the tub with more resistance and then won't turn anymore even with a wrench. Does this sound like a problem with the transmission? Any help would be appreciated. thnx
  15. I have had many service calls this last few months on AMANA  Bottom mount fridges usually AB1924PEKW or very similar. In 9 out of 10 cases it is an iced over freezer coil and simply a matter of replacing the defrost thermostat.Lately I had some fridges were I had to replace the jazzboard. In 1 case the jazzboard was so badly damaged that I decided to replace both board and freezer fan motor. My friend who works for the company here in Israel, who represents Amana, told me once that the evaporator fan motor is very often the cause of the board failure. Can anybody tell me what kills these boards and how do I decide if I replace just the board(when it looks healthy by vision) or any additional parts.
  16. Yesterday I went out on a Samsung TL washer, WA456* style, which was intermittently giving a 3E motor overcurrent error. Previous tech had replaced the rotor and stator to no avail. After checking everything relevant in the tech lit, we were left with only one possibility: the customer was overloading it.  We called the customer down to broach this delicate topic, which she adamantly denied. "I only put 10 t-shirts and two pairs of jeans in it!" she exclaimed, gesturing wildly. "Sure you did, sure you did," my inner monologue exclaimed. "I think it's the shocks!" said the customer. *eye roll*. "Why do you think it's the shocks?" I inquired. "Well, because the tub is hanging down about 6 inches below the bottom of the lid. "Give me a few moments more, and I will let you know what I find." Turns out the machine was overloading itself, with water. It was filling all the way up to the tub cover, which was causing the overcurrent error in the motor. We did some further testing and found the proper frequency at the pressure transducer, and at the board, so the determination is bad main board, which not reading or processing the input correctly.    TLDR: motor overload errors can be caused by too much water in the tub.
  17. I have been working on a laundry center washer for a while now that the drive motor hums when it tries to go to agitate or spin. I first replaced the motor with a used motor I purchased that was said to be tested and good. After replacing the same condition existed. I then found the Capacitor to be leaking oil and replaced it with a new one. Still had same problem so the only thing left was the timer control that I thought had a bad set of contacts in it. Still no luck so I put the old motor back in and actually got it to go into agitate one time and complete one full cycle empty of clothes. 1st load with clothes and only hummed and tripped the overload as it had been. Should I assume the motor I purchased was bad and the start winding is no good? I'm getting good 120 volts at start winding and run winding during the hum. I can also bump the belt and get the motor to run fine once started.
  18. I think the damper Part number: WR49X10091  must be causing the following noise for 3 days: Loud clicking noise from refrigerator compartment above or behind the top light, very loud with the door open. Clicks exactly 21 times over 16 seconds, and repeats every 5 minutes since yesterday.   -- Would the cause of the noise do further damage, and if so, to what?  Regardless, I'm planning on disassembling it shortly to investigate. I read there are three dampers in the refrigerator and not just one. -- Are the other two dampers manual or electric? And, where are the other two located? -- How many thermistors are there in this damper circuitry? -- Where are they, and is the resistance the same as you've stated elsewhere for all of the thermistors? For years, the refrigerator side has been at a consistently lower temp on the refrigerator than it was set for, by about 5 degrees.   Since the noise started, the freezer and refrigerator temperatures are "almost normal". Freezer Evaporator Fan Dying?  Time to at least buy a spare? I noticed when opening the freezer, that the fan was not running initially. Isn't it supposed to run anytime the door is closed? To try to start the motor, I opened and closed the door switch quite a few times without success. Then, although it started, it didn't reach full speed until about 15 seconds later. After that, it was consistently starting and coming up to speed normally when opening and closing the door switch. I read your post that motors that don't start easily are about ready to fail. -- Is there any easy test, like stop the motor by hand and see if it restarts easily? If the evaporator / freezer motor fails completely, I will have no refrigeration, except for a block of ice in the back. If it does stop working, a spare would be wise to have on hand, especially if I suspect it is going bad. -- If you agree, what is the correct evaporator fan motor model # and link? Starting with my model PSI23NGMBB, in that page for the freezer section, they listed the motor, part #610 for which there were three different models of fans listed. Yet, when I tried to verify that each of the three were compatible with my model PSI23NGMBB, none of these three fans (below) that were recommended, were compatible with the website check: Possible motors for # 610 from the diagram for model PSI23NGMBB, but none of these pages confirm compatibility, So which motor is compatible? -- For the motor WITH the thermistor, order Part number: WR60X10074 . -- For the motor WITHOUT the thermistor, order part number Part number: WR60X10185 -- This motor includes the defrost thermostat, sensor, and evaporator fan motor. Harness includes the connection for the light. Order Part number: WR23X10467 , -- Without dis-assembly before I order, how can I tell which model fan I need for my model PSI23NGMBB ? All the motors appear to be identical Panasonic models, (including the condenser motor).  -- Why can't I just order the cheapest motor I can find, and manually wire it into the harness after clipping the wires of the old motor and splicing it in?  
  19. Hello Everyone!   Last time I was here I could have sworn it was the Samurai site, so I guess it's been a bit-   My clothes washer, a Kenmore HE3t, purchased in 2002.   I recently replaced the drain motor, which had started to fail but would run (well, rather flounder, but it would try to run).   I still had problems of very slow draining. I found in the rubber boot that runs from the back of the pump assembly up to the tub we had a massive amount of junk - enough to clog the ball valve and then perhaps several more times over, besides the two children's socks in there (Yes, at one point I had to replace the large boot that seals off the tub).   Before this discovery there were many multiple consecutive attempts at spin-drain - I mention this for though not likely, it is possible that I fried the new non-OEM motor.   Now that the huge clog is removed I find the washer not operating; I had numerous various error codes such as FH and F02 and SUDS and so on, all pointing towards the drainaige system (FH can also be problems with the anti-siphon as I read, not only cold water pressure or pressure sensor).   I ran the diagnostic and found everything operating correctly EXCEPT the drain pump not engaging. I hooked in the other old drain-pump and found it was not even turning on either - neither had so much as the hum of energized coils.   I did have to wrestle almost violently when dealing with those horrible spring hose clamps (If curses take hold, I regret the amount I cursed those who chose sping clamps for this purpose instead of screw clamps; I must get clamp pliers) that secure the rubber boot from the pump assembly to the tub, so I tried to check all connections. They appear correct and secure throughout the washer, but I can not be 100% certain.   What would cause electricity to not flow to the pump and how should I proceed to test this/these?   And other thoughts on the matter?   Please forgive my urgency, not only have I my wife, but four teen-aged daughters to deal with.
  20. The motor coupling (AP4363997) spins freely on the motor shaft that turns the auger in the ice bin. Any suggestions on how to remove it without damaging the threads on the motor shaft. Thank you.
  21. I have a Kenmore Gas dryer that does not tumble. When the start switch is pressed the drum begins to rotate ( barely moves ) and then stops and makes a buzzing sound. I have replaced the drum belt, support wheels and the tensioner idler.   I suspect that it may be the motor, but I am not sure.   The drum rotates freely in one direction. The dryer does not heat or get past the first fraction of a second.   Is there anything other than the motor that I should check ? How can I check the motor before buying another one ?   The dryer is about 10 years old,
  22. Hi - I recently replaced motherboard, thermostat and Frzr thermistor due to defrosting issue on my GE PSS26SGRBSS. The heater reads 21 ohms and it is defrosting properly. Everything works on the fridge, however it stays on constantly (evap & condenser fans on), except during the defrost cycle.   Could the motor be damaged, due to prior bad motherboard that was sending fluctuating voltage at sometimes? I read in another post that said fan motor can be “down Amping the board”, and therefore it is a bad motor. To rule this out, I unplugged J2 and nothing came on when I powered the refrigerator.  The other possibility would be the thermistors? So, I went to town on taking measurements:    J2:  pins 3-8 = 13.6V, pins 3-4 = 12.58V, pins 3-5 =11.95V, pins 5-8 = 13V, pins 3-6 = 2.95V, pins 4-8 = 13V, pins 6-8 = 10.7V ; Resistance between pins 3-8 = 1,024 Ohms NOTE: measured again after unplugging and plugging fridge again, all measurements are the same except pins 4-8 = 1.07V & pins 5-8 = 1.06V (both fans running)   J1: pins 1-5 = 2.33V, 14.5 K ohms; pins 2-5 = 2.52V, 16.3K ohms; pins 3-5 = 3.41V,  34.6K ohms, Fzr evap pins 4-5 = 3.59V, 43K ohms. Display temp reading is 36 degrees FF, 0 degrees Frzr.  Thermometer agrees with display readings. I also did the ice water cup test and all measured around 16.1K ohms.   All I can think the problem maybe, the two thermistors in FF section? and possibly the evaporator fan motor? Your help is greatly appreciated!
  23. have this Bosch DW that the motor hums some of the time.  Circulation motor has a 35 mF capacitor which meters out to OL on two different meters.   Problem is the capacitor is not listed as a seperate part, only comes with a new circulation motor at the tune of $200.   Has anyone changed out the capacitor before seems other than having a mounting problem I should be able to use another capacitor with the same rating.   If a new main pump is required I would think the with the extremely labor involved to change it out along with the cost of the pump that would price the repair out of the park, I would suggest a new machine.
  24. I am working on a Whirlpool WDF310PAAS1 dishwasher that shows no blinking lights when running cycle, and fills and drains properly according to the times on the tech data sheet, but the circulation motor doesn't turn on when entering the washing/rinsing cycles.  This is an electronically controlled dishwasher and am a bit stumped on just how to test to see if the motor is bad, or if it is the control board.   I do know that I am supposed to first test to see if the board is passing power to the lugs on the control board that lead to the motor, but not sure what voltage I am looking for, nor if I should also check for a certain amount of resistance with unit unpowered.  Same for the motor end of the wiring harness.  Anything else I should check?   I cannot locate any information online about this dishwasher nor the model that replaced it WDF320*  which led me here.  Calls to two friends I have that are Appliance Repairmen by trade have never worked on these models either and they can find to data on them from their sources.
  25. So we've joined the club of Whirlpool dishwasher owners who need to replace the circulation motor, as the bearings have rusted due to the poor shaft seal design.  Has anyone tried using something like waterproof grease on the shaft, just before the rubber seal, when installing a new motor?   Any suggestions gratefully received! A most humble grasshopper.