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  1. I have a 1997 Whirlpool top load, direct drive Washer, model LSL9345EQ1.  The motor is only about 4 years old.  A few weeks ago the machine made it about 3 mins into the wash cycle when it stopped.  An electrical burn odor was noted.  After some time to rest it started up again and has run fine since with no odor.  Today the machine filled with water and blew a 20-amp circuit breaker.  Again, there was an electrical odor.  I reset the 20A breaker and it completed its cycle with no problem and no odor.  I checked inside the machine and all looks good.  No sign of oil or leaks.  No abnormal sounds at any part of cycle.  Checked start capacitor with ohmmeter, checks good.  Did three more loads with no problems, sounds or odor.  Very puzzled!  What is wrong with this aging washer?
  2. Version

    14 downloads

    MODELS: NTW5200T NTW5240T NTW5400T NTW5500T NTW5505T NTW5640T NTW5700T NTW5705T NTW5800T   PUB 8178662   AL-1
  3. File Name: Amana Top Load Direct Drive Washer with ATC Job Aid File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 30 Nov 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper MODELS: NTW5200T NTW5240T NTW5400T NTW5500T NTW5505T NTW5640T NTW5700T NTW5705T NTW5800T   PUB 8178662   AL-1 Click here to download this file
  4. This has probably been ask/answered before but I cant seem to find it. I have to replace the bearing seal kit (W10435302) Seeing if anyone has a nifty trick to get out a stubborn wash plate (W10077050) that refuses to come off, don't really want to cut it out if I don't have to. Thanks.
  5. Unit had a noisy spin, gearcase leaking oil. I replaced the gearcase under extended warranty. I also replaced the cam assembly because it was loaded full of oil. Everything is running very smooth now. No Codes showing. I noticed the drive motor seemed hot. Around 126 degrees. Does anyone know if this is normal? I could not find any information on this subject. I eliminated any extra drag that may have occured with a gearcase going bad. The shift mechanism is working normally. Actually the machine is working great, but I have never noticed a motor getting that hot before.  
  6. Version

    16 downloads

    PUB 8541947
  7. File Name: Kenmore 110.24642300 Washer Wiring Sheet File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 05 Aug 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper PUB 8541947 Click here to download this file
  8. original problem was NO spin, replaced transmission and clutch. Now we are finding that when there is a load in it when it goes into spin/drain it only drains but if we stop it and start after drain/spin starts the spin engages....any ideas maybe basket drive or defective transmission? 
  9. I have been working on a laundry center washer for a while now that the drive motor hums when it tries to go to agitate or spin. I first replaced the motor with a used motor I purchased that was said to be tested and good. After replacing the same condition existed. I then found the Capacitor to be leaking oil and replaced it with a new one. Still had same problem so the only thing left was the timer control that I thought had a bad set of contacts in it. Still no luck so I put the old motor back in and actually got it to go into agitate one time and complete one full cycle empty of clothes. 1st load with clothes and only hummed and tripped the overload as it had been. Should I assume the motor I purchased was bad and the start winding is no good? I'm getting good 120 volts at start winding and run winding during the hum. I can also bump the belt and get the motor to run fine once started.
  10. this old washer 70's or 80s vintage refused to spin or agitate and smelled of burnt rubber .  The motor turns fine, pump works. The belt to the transmission burned in half from the friction and fell on the ground.   The pump belt is intact. The pulley on the transmission turns by hand in one direction but not in the other (clockwise) direction.    Is the transmission locked up?   Any hope for this unit?  It seemed like it was going to last forever, built like a rock.  thanks   John    
  11. Once again my ASKO T760 Dryer has died on me. It still makes heat but the drum has stopped turning so I am assuming it is the belt again. I replaced the belt about five years ago (or was it ten?)  Anyway. I remember I bought the replacement on this forum and was supplied with very nice and DETAILED instructions on the changeover and later bought a new coil as well. Could someone tell me how I did this so I can do it again?   The parts list lists this as the "Drive Belt" and the part number is 8061961       Thanks tom
  12. Original issue: Tub not spinning during spin cycle. Diagnosis: Motor coupling was damaged—rubber isolator was in three pieces.  Replaced so far: Motor coupling (3 pieces) and clutch Synopsis: Since the motor coupling isolator was in three pieces I though for sure that was the issue. After replacing the motor coupling the tub still did not spin.  Next, I removed the transmission and motor and had them set up to run separate from the washing unit. The motor was obviously spinning, the coupling was spinning the transmission, and the transmission was spinning the drive shaft. However, if I pinched the drive shaft lightly while the motor is running I could easily stop the drive shaft from spinning (the motor and clutch continue to spin). This made me think that maybe the clutch was not engaging. I replaced the clutch and I can still easily pinch the drive shaft to stop it from spinning while the motor is running. When I put the transmission and motor back in the washing unit and attempt the spin cycle the tub still does not spin.  This is a video of me pinching the drive shaft while the motor is running:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pz1Tz9cY3w&feature=youtu.be My next guess is that something in the transmission is "slipping" anytime any amount of force is applied to the drive shaft (pinching with my fingers or the weight of the tub).  Do I need a new transmission or is there something else I should try first?
  13. By now most of us have encountered the F7 E5 error on the whirlpool VMW washers. But here's a blog on it anyway. This is a drive motor error. When the machine is started the sensing part of the load starts and usually when this error is present the machine will shut down after a few seconds and the lid lock light starts flashing. This means the main board is not sensing the rotation of the basket correctly or not sensing basket movement at all. First step in diagnosing this problem is making sure the basket turns free and is not jammed in any way. Then check for correct voltages at the main board (have yet to change a main board for this issue some techs skip this step and move straight to the shift actuator.) This is issue can also be caused by an optic sensor falure. The optic sensor is inside the shifter assy. You will the replace the whole shifter assy to fix the optic sensor failure. In my experience the optic sensor is usually the cause of this error. There is an optic sensor test you can access and by spinning the basket by hand the lights on the control will dance showing the optic sensor is reading movement. The exact procedure is in the tech manual. The shifter is not always the cause of this error though. Remember that VMW's just point you close to the problem not leading you directly to the part failure so always check main board connections and wire connections at motor and shifter assy. Also check the red coil of wire on the bottom of the tub for a broken wire. There has been one case that i have heard (from Kurtiusinterupptus) that the drive block was the cause of this fault. The machine would start to run and just shut down and the lid lock light would flash just like when a shifter fails. After 2 shifter replacements (thought one was bad out of the box) Whirlpool tech line help (didn't help much) and much frustration brother Kurtius got it whipped. If your battling an F7E5 error make sure you are armed with a shift actuator. This will be your most common replacement. Also be aware of the drive block problem. The drive block failure has not been common in these machines but im sure more will come. So be aware the drive block can cause the error as well as the other listed components in the tech manual. Also check to make sure the transmission drive pulley is not loose/broken. This problem could also occur when there is a stripped splutch. Capacitor could also cause a motor error. Here is a list of common VMW parts that are failing. Some cause the drive error, some do not.Common Part number: AP5263307 Part number: AP4514539 Part number: AP4514713 Part number: AP4514410 Part number: AP4513864 Part number: AP4514411 Part number: AP4514409 Part number: AP5629787 Part number: AP4514724
  14. Just replaced the defrost timer on a Kenmore 596.72913200 bottom freezer fridge.  Working now but still unsure of the belt configuration.  Any thoughts?
  15. Looking for a new direct drive Roper Washer ... does anyone know of anywhere I can purchase one since they are no longer making them ?  I am happy to pay shipping.  They must be out there somewhere.   Thanks for any leads or help.   Rose
  16. I have been running into this for too long now. I test a top load whirlpool style washer and often get the loud knocking noise from the transmission during agitate. As the transmission is too expensive too replace and resell the machine for a reasonable profit I end up scrapping it out.   I do have the time to putter around and rebuild the tranny myself BUT what part is it that actually causes the knocking. They are a pretty simple unit and many of the parts are available but again too expensive too try just replacing parts as a test or learning experience. I don't believe it's a combination of many parts worn out. I think it's one part that really causes the problem I just don't know which one and I'm sure someone has figured it out ahead of me.   So I ask if anyone has gotten into the innards of these transmissions and knows for sure which part it is that is causing this way too common problem. I'm tired of scrapping these things out.
  17. Version

    65 downloads

    Whirlpool Alpha Washer Tech Bundle Care Package Job Aid W10372167 Service Update W10642118 Training Pointer W10598804 Tech Sheet W10441081B Tech Sheet W10254474B Service Pointer W10393859 Service Pointer W10506796A Instruction Sheet W10443846 Service Pointer W10384730 Service Pointer W10453670A Bundled and contributed by Brother Spannerwrench
  18. File Name: Whirlpool Alpha Washer Tech Bundle Care Package File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 18 Jan 2014 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Whirlpool Alpha Washer Tech Bundle Care Package Job Aid W10372167 Service Update W10642118 Training Pointer W10598804 Tech Sheet W10441081B Tech Sheet W10254474B Service Pointer W10393859 Service Pointer W10506796A Instruction Sheet W10443846 Service Pointer W10384730 Service Pointer W10453670A Bundled and contributed by Brother Spannerwrench Click here to download this file
  19. Belt Installation On A Maytag Amana Dryer

    From the album Dryer Repair

  20. File Name: Frigidaire Front Load Tumble Action Washer with AC Drive Motor Service Manual File Submitter: RegUS_PatOff File Submitted: 01 Oct 2013 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Frigidaire Washer F/L Tumble Action Washer w/ AC Drive Motor 360_TumbleActionWashers Click here to download this file
  21. Version

    19 downloads

    Frigidaire Washer F/L Tumble Action Washer w/ AC Drive Motor 360_TumbleActionWashers
  22. Anyone have an easy way to replace a belt on this washer?
  23. good morning, i am looking for the service manual for a kenmore direct-drive washer, model # 110.22632100   thanks!
  24. Hi!  Dryer is working, but started making sound as it is going around, sounds sort of like a belt on a car, when it is going bad, but not sure that's it.  Where do I begin?  Thank you from the bottom of my samurai-loving heart.   Rebecca
  25. Help! I ran into this little Italian nerd today and was embarassed. It would not start so, I checked the vent first and then started looking for a thermal fuse. Well, by the time I found the real problem (door switch right on the edge of making) I had removed the back and the belt and drum came with it. My question is how do you get the belt back on? There is about two inches to the motor and there doesn't seem to any way to get it on to the pulley. My appliantological brothers, I implore you, ease my embarassment with your wisdom of the ages.