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  1. Our HE3t is not draining. We keep getting SUD and F02 error codes. Worst part is, the door will not unlock either. We cleaned out the catch and made sure the hoses were clear and not kinked. We ran it with the panel off and can hear the pump making noises like something is lose. This is a two part request...   1. How can we get the door open? 2. Can you point us towards the correct part and instructions on how to replace it?   Thank you! Pamela
  2. My venerable LG WM1812CW front-loader has started throwing error code DE (0E on the 7-segment display). The first observation was that the machine was making a horrible noise as it entered the drain/spin cycle, which is when the code was thrown.   I put it in diagnostic mode, and it turns the drum quietly. Launching straight into the spin cycle though, and the horrible noise is back.   I pulled a couple of rusty bobby pins (three daughters and a wife...yeah, expected) and other detritus out of the pump filter. Noise is still there.   Cleaned up all the water on the floor (from opening the filter), removed the top, and confirmed resistance on the drain pump is at 14 ohms. Well within spec of 10-40 ohms. Pump is clearly getting juice since it's noisy.   Disassembled the front and removed the pump assembly, and took the pump off the works.   The impeller isn't turning smoothly at all. It jumps, and takes some effort. Here's a cool 12s video from my wonderphone: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=DDE8265586F7B0C5!105507&authkey=!AGa9enwOpQqrlyI&ithint=video%2cmp4   So, this pump looks bad to y'all, right? Anything else I should check?
  3. I am trying to replace the pump/motor assembly in my dishwasher.  Unfortunately, it seems that it's so old (at least 15 years) that the model number isn't listed anywhere online.  I ordered the part that was listed as the replacement for all washers made after 1970 (Part number: WD26X10013 ) but my existing pump doesn't look like any of the removal/replacement illustrations in the instructions.  I'm having trouble seeing how this part will fit, as the connection to the impeller doesn't seem to be the simple hose that all of the videos show.  IOW, even after I have disconnected all hoses, wires, and the hanger, I cannot simply "remove" the motor. Any help at all, even "You're SOL - just return the part" would be useful at this point!
  4. Greetings Appliantologists!   The wife and I let our screeching washer go too long before addressing the problem and it is now dead. No power.   I have: Unplugged it, waited several minutes, and plugged it back in with no change.  
  5. Bosch dishwasher - SHU43C05UC/14 - started making a whining, sort of continuous mild crunching noise while washing.  No noise while draining.  Pulled off kick plate and noise appears to be coming from circulation pump, #239144.  I put my fingers on the pump while it was running and the housing was hot to the touch. The dishwasher still fills with water and washes dishes.  Is it safe to continue using the dishwasher with a noisy circulation pump -- or is there a risk of fire, for example?  I won't have time to disassemble the dishwasher and repair it for a month or two.   Thank you..
  6. Hi all,    Had the DW running for a little while today when I heard a strange beeping from the kitchen.  Couldn't find it for a while  , then I realized "hey, the dishwasher should still be running!".  Opened the door, and the display said something like "stopped due to low water".  Strange.  Nothing near the bottom.  Tried the faucet, good flow.  So I restarted it.  Then, water profusely poured from the bottom.  Stopped it, mopped up, then took the kick plate off and looked under while I restarted.  Didn't take long for the waterfalls to start.  Couldn't tell where it was from, though.  I did notice a 'big white thing' hanging onto the floor.   Disconnected power and drain, pulled it out, tipped it on its side.  Pretty easy to find the source of the leak (even for me!).  The 'white thing' is a shroud covering what I think is the pump. It has a larger (maybe 1.5" elbow) connection to what I recognize as the reservoir under where the filter inserts on the inside; the other side is a short maybe 1" connectio to the center of the unit (I think that's where  the impeller is?).  Anyhow, it's that shorter connection that is just disconnected.  Doesn't seem to be any sort of trauma- the hose clamp is still in tact.  I'ts just not connected to the intake manifold (?).   I have pic I will post shortly, once I figure out how to use this "my media" thing.  But my questions:   -Should I just reconnect this thing, or is this an indication something needs replacing?  It's not a normal hose clamp, but I'm sure I can figure it out.   -With nothing look like it's failed, why da heck did this thing come of in the first place?  The unit is about 2 years old.  Doesn't make much noise and no vibrations to be noticed.     Seems like I got lucky, too.  I think if this had happened during the fill cycle, before the float switch was satisfied, it would just keep pouring onto the floor until somebody walked (or swum) in an noticed it, but since it happened (apparently) during the spray mode, the "no water" saved my butt.  Is that correct, or is this somehow smart enough to notice something was wrong during the fill cycle??   Thanks!   Bucky 
  7. Boiler fires fine ... what temp is around 200 deg F and pressure reads   when I set the thermostat 5 degrees + the actual temp nothing happens!   Boiler fires to maintain temp in oil water heater. I have hot water. House is comfortable temp outside is below freezing 28 degree so not terrible cold. cant detect any leaks in the house..   I think it is the circulator pump that has failed...
  8. I have a Fisher & Paykel IWL16 IntuitiveECO washer and recently had a fault code 37 issue. I removed the pump and checked for obstructions in the hoses and diverter valve. I also removed the basin and the top cover for the pump in the tub and checked for anything there as well, but everything looked good. I checked the resistance on the pump motor and it measured around 6 ohms and from what I was able to find online it looks like it should be around 33 ohms. I ordered a replacement pump from F&P and installed it along with the included 2.5A Slo-Blow fuse to protect the controller board.   The new pump has resolved the fault code 37 which is great. The problem I'm having now is that the new fuse installed is blowing. I tried a few different scenarios and it seems like it is blowing during the spin cycle. The first time I ran it was on a normal cycle with an empty tub (no clothes) and the fuse blew during spin. I replaced the fuse with a 3A Slo-Blo (what I had on hand) and then I ran a wool cycle (medium spin) with an empty tub and it completed just fine. I tried a half full load of clothes on normal/default cycle then and the fuse blew while spinning during the last few minutes of the cycle.   I called Fisher & Paykel to see if the pump I received is faulty, but since I am not a service technician I can't talk to their tech support and they directed me to call a local service center. I've put a call in there but I need to call back next week when I can get one of their techs on the phone. I'm frustrated that they won't provide any support for the new part that I just purchased. I get that they wouldn't want to flood their tech support with consumer calls, but I really want to know if I have a bad pump and should send it back. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  9. I am getting an F18 error on a Bosch WAS24460UC Axxis+ washer.  I drained the machine and tried to open the pump cover.  I turned it counterclockwise as far as it would go, but when I tried to pull it out, it wouldn't budge.   My guess is that there is something stuck in there.   Does anyone know how to get the pump cover (the circular white knob) off so I can check inside the pump to see if anything is clogging it up?   Thanks in advance.   Steve
  10. I am experiencing two problems with my Kenmore 417.90862990 Washer/Dryer.  #1 below is most critical.  #2 below I have been living with, but wish to fix:   1. Last night I found water coming out of an overflow hole on the tub and immediately turned it off.  I noticed the washer's pump wasn't working.  I put the washer back in spin mode and tapped the pump with a hammer, which got it working again.  However, it was a little noisy.  It looks like the pump can be disassembled.  Is that true?  Is it possible something is lodged in the pump (impeller??)  causing the issue?  Thoughts?  Should I first take it apart, if possible?  Replacement part is:   http://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-model-kenmore-41790862990.html   2. For several years now when the wash timer enters spin mode, it sometime goes into agitation mode instead.  My workaround is to open the lid and with a screwdriver cycle on and off the lid switch.  After doing that usually several times, the washer will go into spin mode.  I then close the lid and allow it to fully spin dry the clothes.  Strange thing is this happens more often with small loads, less often with large loads which throws me off?  What might cause this problem?  Can it be the timer itself?  I am not sure what what or how the transmission is told to go from agitation mode to spin, etc.     Thanks for any help!  
  11. Any one can point me to a Service Manual for information on this hybrid water heater that uses refrigeration to heat the water?   This vacation home has a bank of three of these things for a vacation home.   One of them has quit working.   Sure keeps the garage cold in the summer where they are located.
  12. Parts suppliers only list the Drain pump assembly ($130+) for this whirlpool made antique.  Can any one show me how to cross reference a pump only.   I do not see the need to replace the whole assembly, since it does not wear out, lose its function, come with drain hoses etc.    A little overkill on parts replacement I would say.
  13. Hello All,   I bought a used Frigidaire Affinity Front-Load Washer & Dryer about 6 months ago.   I bought the set from a trusted friend who had the units in storage for about 6 months because they downsized to an apartment that already had a washer & dryer. When he used the set last, they worked perfectly.   I bought the set and took it home. When we first used the washer, we were having problems with it draining. It wouldn't completely drain, but we could hear the pump running (and it was very loud). After a few cycles, we finally got the set to work and it was draining properly.   Now, the washer is back to not draining. We read online about cleaning the hoses, pump, and filter... so we took the washer apart and found a bunch of coins just before the pump. We put everything back together, started it up, and it still won't drain. We hear the pump running (this time much quieter), but nothing.   I found online how to check for error codes, and we are getting an error code "E23", "Drain pump relay on the control board failed,". I've read on other posts that people have replaced the control board and still had problems, typically replacing the door switch or pump has worked.   I'm guessing that my control board and door switch are both fine since I'm hearing the pump running.. would it be safe to assume the pump is bad and order a new one?   Thanks!
  14. When I start the dishwasher, it goes through a short drain cycle, tries to fill, does another drain cycle, sounds like it tries to fill again, and stops and lights the Clean light. This takes a little over 2 minutes. Today I discovered that I can get it to complete the cycle if I open and close the door during the second drain cycle. I tested the drain pump by adding water and holding up the float valve. The water drained easily. I ran the diagnostic and it indicates a problem with the drain pump. I've replaced the control panel, the power module, and the door latch (Hall sensor). No luck. I'm considering replacing the drain pump or the fill valve at this point, but I'm running out of ideas.
  15. Hi...   I received an F21 error code, which is a drain issue. I followed the instructions, cleaned out the catch at the pump...it wasn't so dirty...plugged it all back in and now I get no power at all. Absolutely nothing. Yes, the outlet works just fine, I tested and retested it. The door keeps locking so I manually opened it. Help!
  16. Greetings,     I have a Quiet Partner 1 (model DU1055XTPQ4) dishwasher. After the cycle begins the dishwasher fills up, seems to fill fine as I hear water circulating. The 1-2 minutes after start (I'm assuming the washing is to begin after a few gallons are in tub) I hear a loud continuous buzzing. Clearly other than the buzzing nothing is happening. It drains just fine when I hit the cancel button in 1-2 minutes like normal.   Perhaps coincidentally about a month ago we had a plastic lid fall through, melt a little, and a few small pieces chip off.   I broke down and cleaned out from the tub side all the way through the accumulator, chopper assembly, etc. Found a moderate amount of junk including plastic and pea size of ceramic, noting nothing significant past the chopper screen.   That didn't fix the problem. I've broken down the entire pump assembly. I WANT TO: replace the circulation motor itself, just hoping that will fix the issue. I can't really bench test the motor or anything myself. This model is a one-pump two-way motor correct? So I'm worried if it is filling and draining okay, will the motor fix it?   I don't know how to remove the impeller, as I was told there could be a jam or foreign object there. Nothing visible. I can see no blockages in the sump housing or elsewhere, and water seems to enter and exit easily.   Is replacing the motor likely to fix the problem? The impeller is included with the motor. Would getting the motor bench tested be best? To make certain it's the issue? It's the only motor in the unit right, sure sounds like a motor that's failing...   Thanks for any help you can provide!!   
  17. My 10 year old washer cycles water through but won't drain out the hose.  I have replaced the pump, checked all hoses (clear, not kinked or blocked), checked the diverter valve (no visible damage), etc.  The drain hose is not too high off of the floor.    The Detailed Fault Code shows as #37, Pump Block Error.  I am not able to lift out the basket, even though I have removed the suspension rod, neck ring, agitator, spline screws, and driven spline, and so I cannot check the path from the tub to the pump, but it appears that the pump works fine, since it circulates water back into the wash tub just fine.  Am I missing something, or do I need to replace the motor control module?  How can I get the basket out to check/clean underneath?  It lifts slightly if I work at it, but won't lift off.  I'm not a hefty woman, do I need someone stronger to yank on it?  Thanks....  
  18. The control board on W10113000A Cabrio cannot signal 'stop' to the drain pump.
  19. I am chasing an issue that when the washer is first started, the drain pump will run and after a few seconds the timer will change from 50 minutes to 51 minutes, the tub will not fill.  If I unplug the machine, wait 30 seconds or so and plug it back in sometimes it may start filling right away and work fine, or I may have to repeat the procedure a few times.  But also sometimes by letting timer run down to 50 minutes again and hitting cancel and then start, the water will flow and the machine will work flawless for the day.  I have tried installing a new door lock, still the same.  There are no codes that show up on the display. I have had the pump out and seems to work fine, nothing plugged or stuck in the fill or drain lines.  When first putting the pump back in after draining it, the machine came on first time I hit the start button, but after stopping it and tried to restart, drain pump started to run again and would not fill.  Had to do the power unplug thing again a few times before I could get the tub to fill.Then it worked fine until the next time I tried to use it. Has anyone heard of this type of issue before?
  20. I think I need to repair (or replace) the pump on a Bosch Nexxt 500 WFMC3301UC Washer.  When the washer attempts to drain, I just hear a buzzing noise from the pump motor (I'm thinking that maybe there's a dead spot on the commutator and if I can get the motor apart, maybe I can fix it).  I had this same problem a few weeks ago, but it worked again after running the diagnostics (I figured that maybe the diagnostics reset the circuit) but the problem has re-occurred.    I'm getting 120v at the connector so the controller board is probably OK, but only reading 16.5 ohms across the pump connectors so I think the pump is the problem.   I found a YouTube video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7aFdZ9C548&feature=player_detailpage) and although it is a different model shown in the video, the pump on the WFMC appears to be removeable in the same way; however, I can't seem to get the pump to turn enough to disengage from the body of the pump assembly.  Is there a latch that needs to be depressed so that it turns?   In any case, I have not yet been able to find just the pump (only the pump assembly (Bosch part number 436440)).  I figured that if I could repair the pump motor (if it comes apart) by undercutting any shorted segments of the commutator with a hacksaw blade (if that is the problem) or just replace the pump itself (assuming it does come off from the body) which would make the repair a little cheaper.  Does this pump detach (by turning) and is it available seperately?   I have removed the drain sump hose from the pump ass'y (hose clamp) and I need to remove the drain hose but want to be careful not to break it.  There is no hose clamp.  It appears to snap in to the ass'y.  How is this hose removed?  Press in on the two holes in the side and pull and or turn to remove?   When I opened the back of the machine, there was a loose ground wire and an empty spade connector on one of the ground terminals of the heater coil (looks like a previous serviceman had replaced the spade connector but didn't have the right crimping tool so the wire pulled out of the connector).  I crimped a new connector on the wire and re-attached it (hoping against hope that maybe the lack of ground potential in that circuit may have been messing up other circuits in the controller - but no such luck).   I also found a plastic part identified in the parts diagram as a holder (part 0310 on the attached pdf - Bosch part # 422271) but it is not obvious from the diagram where this attatches to or what it's purpose is.  Where is this part supposed to go?   I await your words of wisdom, O' Fermented Grand Master Sama.  Domo arigato! 6_pdfsam_ExplodedView.pdf
  21. Hi Wise Folks,   Loud grinding noise was similar to what we heard when there was sippy straw and twist-ties in there.  That time (6 months ago), the noise went away after appliance person took it apart and cleaned it.  THe water also flowed better, and got things clean.   Now the noise is back. I have cleaned the mascerator (1st blade/screen in sump).  Did not fix the problem.   It only seems to happen in the wash cycle, not rinse.  Don't recall if pre-wash/rinse.   The unit has given 8 years of service, would like more.  Everything else works fine.  Just the noise.   Read somewhere that it could be a second level screen, or even the impeller.   Looks like I have to remove pump to get at these.   If I have to remove the pump (even if just to replace the impeller), is it worth getting a new pump (and related seals) and new impeller--and fixing the thing?  Are there other "wear" parts (e.g., sensors, water pump) that are considered fragile and should be replaced?   I am very handy, though this seems more "involved" than complicated (I downloaded a Whirlpool manuial to read about the steps).   Is it worth it?   Advice Most appreciated.   JBR
  22. The DD602I bottom drawer works great. The top drawer is frozen; a single beep every second and the delicate lamp is continuously lit, red. Also, the drain pump spins continuously - the drawer is dry. Cut power, wait, restore power, gets the same result. The drawer does not respond to any of the control buttons. It will not enter diagnostic mode. It will not power down, or lock, or enter Option Adjustment Mode, but does beep when buttons are pushed. Everything has been disassembled and cleaned. All the wires are connected. All plumbing is clear. The drawer seal holds air. Bottom drawer has not been removed - assuming the flood switch would disable both drawers. If the pump impeller is removed, and power is reapplied, there is a gentle 'clicking' in/near the stator. I am really stuck without access to the Diagnostic Mode. I would be grateful for any ideas, suggestions, previous experiences and insights. Thank you, David
  23. From the album appliance pics parts

    This plug looks like the wire is good and connected, its not. there are basically four push in knife type connectors that ars suppose to strip the wire and make the connection. often it cuts the wire and eventually breaks. i reused it once, had it come back in a month, used regular insulated terminals to replace it.
  24. Old Bosch Dishwasher Model # 0730 200 037   Worked perfectly until recently.  Started unit and heard loud rhythmic "thumping/banging" sound (all the way upstairs) after 5 minutes.  Stopped unit and didn't try to use it again for a day or so.  Now when I start the unit, there is no sound, but there is only a little bit of water coming out of the arms (maybe 1/4 of original).     Unit runs through entire cycle fine w/ exception of this matter.  Haven't used it since as don't want to damage coils - or anything else.   Possible water pump issue?  Haven't been able to find any parts listed for this model as it's rather old.  Was installed in 1999-2000. Any suggestions?
  25. I have a strange problem with a Bosch Axxis washing machine model WAS20160UC.   The machine will work fine for a while, then stop with an F18 error.  I can't find the error in the service manual or training presentation, but I found it with a Google search.  What is happening is that when the drain pump stops pumping for about 20 seconds with water still in the tub, an F18 error occurs.  I did a manual drain, and opened up the drain pump impeller housing (there is a screw-on cap).  The impeller is clear, and the shaft turns freely.  I then put the maching on drain, and press start, and the drain solenoid clicks open, but the pump doesn't turn.  I do this a couple more times, and the impeller starts turning.  I then put everything back together, and it will run for several loads, then quits with the F18 error.  I haven't taken apart the machine to test the pump windings, but the windings on these things are reasonably heavy, and I would be supprised to have an intermittent broken winding.   I would have suspected a bad bearing in the pump, but the shaft turns fine.  When I turn the impeller, I can feel a magnetic pull ever 1/2 turn or so, so I suspect this pump has a magnetic rotor (Bosch uses the same arrangement in their dishwashers.   Anybody got a clue as to what is going on?  Is this a common problem with these machines?   Thanks in advance.   Steve