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  1. The door lock engaged on its own It locked and wouldn't unlock. I tested the lock motor and got it to unlock. The motor for the lock is operating correctly. Could the board have cause this temp issue. Is there any danger since this unit is doing things on its own ? Thanks !
  2. Trying to figure out what it going on with the above described unit.   Top Oven:  Turn selector to any mode, oven begins to cycle ... 20 seconds in .. clean cycle light comes on and kicks off whatever mode selector set to.  Put selector in clean mode,  30 seconds in oven light comes on, as it should, for about 30 seconds.... then begins to blink. No heat - nothing.     Bottom oven:  Works as should   Both oven lights come on, timer works ...  ideas?
  3. I have a 2001 Frigidaire Range.  Three times recently the motorized oven door lock has activated and locked the door without the Self-Cleaning feature being selected.  Twice it happened when the oven was in use.  The 3rd time was about 15 minutes after the oven had been turned off.    Looking at the Wiring Diagram, it appears that the EOC (Electronic Oven Control) is the only thing that could cause this failure.  I can't see how a motor failure could do it.  The EOC is a very pricey unit.  Can someone confirm for me that this is the logical place for the failure?   Also, my tenant is afraid that the self-cleaning cycle is going to start on its own, but I have told them that the motor wouldn't start the self-cleaning cycle.  Yet, if the EOC is failing, I suppose it could cause that failure also.  Should they be concerned?   Thank you!
  4. After running the self cleaning feature on my Thermador gas oven, the oven won't heat. The fan turns on, it acts like it's trying to heat, but no heat.   From my initial research, it looks like this is a common problem, and I just need to reset the hi-temp cutout switch. But where is it and how easy is it to get to?   Thanks in advance!
  5. The serial number on this range is 95090615.  I guess this makes a difference on the parts.   My problem is that I turned on the self clean cycle which ran about 2 minutes then the word "DOOR" came up on the display.  Also on the display was the word "LOCKED".  I hadn't seen this before but I guess it meant there was a problem with the door.  I pressed the cancel button, but nothing happened.  The door remained locked.  I called Thermador and they said to unplug the range for about 15 minutes then plug it back in.  That didn't work.  So now I am taking the stove apart.  I get to the lock mechanism and find that if I push in on the double switches it clears the display, but the door is still locked.  I ran some continuity tests on the switches for normally closed, normally open and they seemed to be OK.  I don't normally do these kinds of electrical repairs so I could be wrong on that.    So I took the lock mechanism completely out and turn on the range.  The display still showed the same "DOOR and LOCKED".  I need to mention that I just replaced the timer because the display was dim and this was the first time I used the cleaning cycle since I replaced it.  I checked all the wire connections on the timer and they were OK.  I called the people who repaired the timer and of course they said it was not the timer.   I like this range and would like to get it working again.  Any advice would be deeply appreciated.  If worst comes to worst can I use it without the self clean?  Just disable the lock?       Thanks Dswinty    
  6. Washer is a WFW9500TW01. I have had two previous F 35/SUD conditions. First F 35/SUD occurred over a year ago. Replaced APS with no luck, then replaced CCU. Washer worked after this for over a year until I got the F 35/SUD error codes again. Troubleshot again and found the CCU in need of replacement so purchased and replaced it again 2 months ago. Washer worked perfectly until a week ago when I attempted to run the Clean Washer cycle. Clean Washer cycle ends with F 20 error. See below for steps I taken and outcomes for each:   All Washer cycles (except Clean Washer cycle): Every cycle works perfectly with no error codesClean Washer cycle: Start Clean Washer cycleWasher continuously drains for about 20 minutes and throws the F 20 error codeDiagnostic Test: Start Diagnostic Test modeDrain starts @ C:00Test advances to C:01, drain pump still running, steamer unit activates,Test advances to C:02, drain pump still running, inlet valve/s never open, throws F 20 error codeSteamer Functionality Checkup Returns "yes"Troubleshooting steps for F 20 error code during Clean Washer cycle and Diagnostic Test Identify F 20 error code - "NO WATER DETECTED ENTERING MACHINE OR PRESSURE SWITCH TRIP NOT DETECTED"First of all, I performed all of the following tests even though all other washer cycles work appropriatelyReplaced APS, did not fixInspected supply hoses, no kinks or bendsDisconnected supply hoses and checked for obstructions at filter screens for hot and cold supply and flow, no debris or trash found and water flow checked goodInspected drain hose to ensure there is not a siphon condition present, none foundRemoved lower front panel and inspected pump filter cap for obstruction, none foundChecked Inlet valves at all other cycles, have tested both in cold only and hot only scenario, both are actuating and working properlyRemoved flow valve and checked for obstructions, none foundRemoved back panel of washer, removed APS hose and inspected for blockage or signs or cracking or holes, none foundRemoved trap where APS hose connects, clean and unobstructedContacted appliance repair store and got replacement CCU under warranty, installed, did not fix (I personally would have thought this would have been the problem)This washer has been such a pain in my you know what...I've already spent over $400 in repair costs. With this recent issue, I'm at my wits end in trying to identify the cause of this problem. It's not a deal breaker because the washer still functions properly, but I can't help but want to know the cause behind it. Does anyone have experience with this type of error code scenario? I would have bet good money that the CCU had failed again, but after changing it once more....the problem is still there. Would anyone happen to have a tech or service manual for this particular model that I could use to test each component with a volt meter?  
  7. Maytag Bravos   m/n: MVWB3000WQO Clean Cycle shows and estimatedtime of 1:02 and then with in minutes shows 0:04 and stops running. Rest of cycles operate correctly.    
  8. This Frigidaire DW runs a cycle fine then at the end the clean green led stays lit and you can't do anything.  If power is turned off and then back on, the dishwasher works fine for the next cycle but then does the same thing again, sticking on clean. I found the thermostat open on the base of the dishwasher.  I think it is for the heater but I'm wondering if it is bad could it cause this.  I can't find the papers that are supposed to be with it.  Anybody have any experience with this problem?  Like I said the DW works fine if it's reset after every load by turning off the breaker.   Thanks for any help   Doc
  9. This dishwasher does not clean anymore.   Can't figure.  Cycles complete.   Spray wands spray, seems like plenty of pressure.  Glasses fill with water.  Run DW cleaner thru it.   Checked sump can't find hard water deposits.   Client uses Liquid Finish. Customer runs faucet until hot water is available.  I am frustrated.      Run diagnostics, error codes are 6-2, 6-1, & 6-2.   all water fill codes    Water level seems normal.  Error codes won't clear.   Suggestions?   I read in Samurai's ASTI report that the diverter valve could be clogged.  .  Where may that be checked?
  10. 1391292411062

    From the album appliance pics parts

    Be sure you use a good washer cleaner, doing anual maintenance pays off.
  11. 1391292405787

    From the album appliance pics parts

    Tub after cleaning
  12. excuse me if this has been answered but couldn't find it in a search.    I have a VDSC4856.  The left side (small) oven will not self clean.  Turn control to self clean temp to clean and nothing.  The right side works fine hear a click in back light comes on door locks.  Just before it quit self cleaning occasionally the oven would enegize the lock when starting regular baking.   I was told it was a control board, replaced it, no change.  Now have the repair manual from this site, thanks BTW, and looks like it may be relay 2 and or 3.  It appears relay 2 energizes relay 3.  Before you ask yes I could pull the beast out take off the back check voltages, reassemble and push it back, order relays then repeat the process.    Unless anyone else has a better suggestion should I purchase two relays, PM010025?   Thanks!!
  13. Model JKP64GP1, 1992 build date. GE Wall oven / microwave combo. A few years ago a electrical surge took out the control board. I replaced it With a NOS unit. Oven worked fine in broil and bake. F2 code is received 20 Minutes into self clean cycle. Replaced the oven temperature sensor. Same error. Checked resistance on new and old elements . Both read 16ohms at room temp. NOTE: This oven uses a 16 ohm sensor , not a 1100 Ohm Sesnor, GE part WB21X158. Decided not to worry about it as the oven worked. Fast forward a couple of years, and now I need the self clean. My knees do not like kneeling on the floor to clean it!  Here is what I have checked. Oven works fine in broil and bake mode. I have set the temperaturea t the max 550*F and it worked fine . Temperature sensor resistance is 16 Ohms at room temp. Note that this ocven uses a GE WB21X158 16 Ohm sensor, not the more common 1100 Ohm sensor. Door does lock. Door lock and unlock micro-switches work, as measured by continuity check.  During operation, 3.7 VDC is supplied to the micro-switch, and 3.7 VDC is seen across appropiate micro-switch when in operation. This is measured at the control board pin connector. There is a fan that blows air across the top of the oven, in the cavity between the oven and microwave. This fan works, comes on at roughly 210 *F and there is no clogged filter screens anywhere in the fan ducting. Air is felt out of the cavity air when it is on. Unit fails with F2 at 17- 20 Minutes every time. Sequence of events. Any temperature measurements mentioned were made at the oven vent using a IR gun pointed into the oven vent air space.   1.    Touch Clean. CLEAN and 3:00 will be in the display with START flashing.   2.            Touch Start. A Audible “Click” is heard  and door lock motor starts and the display flashes “locked”. When the lock motor reaches full lock position, “LOCKED” stops flashing andis displayed steady. At this point the Unlock micro-switch is open (no voltage across the switch) and the lock micro-switch is closed (3.7 VDC measured across the switch, measured at the control board plug for this circuit. 3.    Immediately on the door being locked Four audible relay "clicks" were hard from the control board relays, K1, K2 and K3 4.    The broil element is on, 240 VAC measured at the broil element. The bake element is off, 0 VAC 5.    At 210 *F the cavity fan blowing air across the top of the oven comes on as expected. 6.    At 16:21 minutes, oven vent temperature average was 600*F plus or minus 10*F, a click was heard from the area of the relays. 2 seconds later the F2 error displayed.   7.    When the F2 Error is displayed-Check: a.    Voltage at bake element 0 VAC b.    Voltage at broil element 0 VAC c.     Fan on blowing air into the cavity on top of the oven is on   It acts as if the system thinks the door is unlocked, even though Visual of the lock/ unlock switch, oven display, and voltage measurements at the board indicate it is locked.
  14. I have seen this problem a couple times but have never seen a fix for it. What happens is on power up the ice machine runs through the rinse cycle and then goes into ice production mode. . . for a few seconds, then drains the water from the troph. I've seen them with bad wiring connections at the troph sensor and low freon levels as well that I suspected. A buddy of mine says that he had one do this after taking the hoses loose off of the drain pump and then not getting it back on correctly. Can anyone explain what is going on to make the water empty out a few seconds into the ice production mode?   This last one that i'm fighting with has a full evap frost and no water in the troph when I got there and the clean/reset indicator light was red but i'm not sure what that really means. Is that light a timed light or an error light? The tech sheet was missing so I didn't put it into diag since I couldn't interpret the results other than the obvious pump running, fan running, "smart" valve letting water in (I won't use the word working here), compressor running. . .
  15. I've seen two ice machines with this problem. They have been cleaned and the "clean" indicator light stays on. Also, It can not be put into clean mode again. On/off switches work. both run and make ice, though one has low production. 
  16. Customer complaint is clean cycle does not work but door latches.    Asked customer if tech sheet is attached to back of range.  Said pouch is empty.    So I am requesting a manual for unit.
  17. Version


    Range Models: JB400DP1WW JB400DP1BB JB400SPSS 06/22/2009
  18. File Name: GE JB400 Steam Clean Range Training Manual File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 29 Apr 2013 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Range Models: JB400DP1WW JB400DP1BB JB400SPSS 06/22/2009 Click here to download this file
  19. File Name: Maytag Jenn-Air Diswasher Jet Clean II Stainless Steel Service Manual File Submitter: RegUS_PatOff File Submitted: 07 Nov 2012 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Maytag D/W Jet Clean II Stainless Steel Maytag MDB8750AW MDB9750AW Jenn-Air JDB1060AW JDB1100AW JDB2100AW JDB2150AWP PUB 16022783 Click here to download this file
  20. Version


    Maytag D/W Jet Clean II Stainless Steel Maytag MDB8750AW MDB9750AW Jenn-Air JDB1060AW JDB1100AW JDB2100AW JDB2150AWP PUB 16022783
  21. I have a four year old Maytag Dishwasher M/N MDBH955AWW that will no longer clean dishes. Symptoms: white residue, lots of food debris left on dishes. I've replaced the turbidity sensor on this unit about a year ago and tried cleaning solutions. That seemed to be an acceptable temp fix. But now there's just too much food debris left on the dishes. We're fairly vigilant about rinsing the dishes prior to loading, especially in light of this problem. We have hard water. The spray arms seem to get clogged with build up fairly often. Cleaning them still does not help. I've not taken the bottom of the unit apart to see what's going on there . . . maybe too much build up or a clog somewhere? Not sure I'd know how to do that. Any diagrams or help there would be appreciated. Thanks.
  22. My washing machine quit working in every cycle. Happened over a few days. All blinking lites and I would push stop and then start again but then it completely quit with clothes and water inside. Would not drain spin or anything. But it is making a consistant & steady noise which sounds like it is coming from right behind the front panel. It is not a knocking or rattle or imbalance noise, it is like a dull even soft drill noise. Hard to describe. We had a weird power outage a few nights ago but I checked the breaker box and it all looks good. My central air heating unit has also quit working since the outage so I am a little suspicious. The washer did quit BEFORE the outage, just remembered that. Please help and ask me any questions. Thank you so much. Sandra
  23. File Name: Samsung Dishwasher DMR77 DMR57 Training Manual File Submitter: kdog File Submitted: 12 Mar 2012 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper 2008 Training Manual for Samsung Dishwasher Models: DMR77 DMR57 Click here to download this file
  24. Version PDF


    2008 Training Manual for Samsung Dishwasher Models: DMR77 DMR57