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  1. Gentlemen, I could use some help. I have a pretty old Jenn-Air model# SVE47500b electric range that has not functioned properly for some time and I finally decided to try and fix it. The stovetop elements all work fine, but the front display is completely blank. Pressing the membrane buttons on the front results in "beeps" but nothing else. I did some research and ordered a relay control board (the small board on the back of the oven behind the stamped cover) but when I replaced that board it had no effect on the problem. I then replaced the clock board in the front of the unit and lo and behold I have a working display! However, when i pressed the "bake" button and input a temperature of 350 degrees (or really, any number), i almost immediately get an error code of "F5" and a continuous "beep" until I press "cancel" on the membrane keypad. Stove top elements still work fine, but oven doesn't heat up at all - I just get that error code. Anything else I can try, or do i need to call in a repair technician?  I'm wasn't quite ready to replace the oven yet (was going to wait until i did a kitchen remodel) and while I can return the relay control board (the old one performs indistinguishably from the new one), keeping the clock board means I've got a little under $300 into this repair and unless I can fix it for less than about $500 total I think I might just be looking at a replacement oven...
  2. I have an Amana ABD2233DES refrigerator with a bottom mount freezer. Fridge compartment was warm, compressor was running and the damper was open no air was coming in. Fridge had some ice on the center-rear of its floor (like where the cold air should have been coming up from the freezer compartment. Freezer had a lot of ice frost buildup on coils.  Thanks to the videos I discovered the tech sheet and put it into service test mode. Defrost Thermostat was S" for open. I observed the damper door opening and closing. I put it into forced defrost mode. Compressor shut off and the defroster heating rod came on. There was so much ice I had to go through about 7-8 forced defrosts and I used a heat gun to melt.  I have ordered a new jazz board. My question is: While I am waiting for my board I need to continue to use the fridge and I'd rather not have to throw away any more food!  My plan is just to force defrost at least 1x per day. But then I realized that I have no idea if that will be enough! I guess I never really noticed/paid attention to the defrost cycles before so how do I know if the defrost cycle is continuing to fail to initiate on its own? About how often does a fridge operating properly, defrost? If I find that there is a bunch of frost buildup and/or the fridge isn't keeping cool - can someone point me to the way to do a longer/deeper forced defrost? Is doing manual forced defrosts until my board shows up in a week a wise strategy? thanks all,  Steve
  3. I'm wrestling with a defrost issue with Frigidaire side by side. Had it serviced by a tech due to a drop in temp and alarm beeping. Coils were completely encased in ice. After manually defrosting, heater and defrost thermostat were tested to be within spec. Conclusion of the tech was " bad main control board". Quoted price was 300.00 plus labor. I sourced the part locally (new) and replaced it myself. Fridge came to temp quickly and held with no issues for about a week then the same symtoms appeared - back wall and coils completely iced over, obviously not defrosting. What do I look at next?
  4. Hi I have defrost issues.... I tested the thermostat and heater for continuity and they tested good. The fan is running so it's not that. How do ingest the Jazz board before buying a new one
  5. Bosch SHE45M05UC/56   The unit has experienced a number of issues recently 1. Not heating, reset breaker that helped (but I ordered a new control board just in case)   2. Overfilling, water everywhere.  It was draining forever until i read about flood mode.  Drained the water from the pan and that took care of that.   I changed the control board, Quick Wash cycle starts normally but fills longer than usual and continues to fill even when the unit is switched-off.     Is the float switch 00165256 the culprit?   I cleaned the control assembly and it seems to be clicking properly.   Test button routine gives me a C6/PO in the display.   (This may be irrelevant but I replaced a cracked fascia panel recently but was careful to replace the buttons in order.)   Any help would be appreciated.  Thank you.
  6. File Name: Energy Efficient Temperature Regulating And Defrost Control Systems - Whirlpool Job Aid File Submitter: DurhamAppliance File Submitted: 29 Oct 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Independent Temperature Control for Side-by-Side Refrigerator/Freezers Adaptive Defrost Control for Top-Mount and Side-by-Side Refrigerator/Freezers   Technology education Job Aid   PUB 4321863 Click here to download this file
  7. Version


    Independent Temperature Control for Side-by-Side Refrigerator/Freezers Adaptive Defrost Control for Top-Mount and Side-by-Side Refrigerator/Freezers   Technology education Job Aid   PUB 4321863
  8. This down draft fan low speed fan quit working early in the year the high speed quit working early July.  I had DC voltage coming into the board From the J4 connector cable coming from PCB.   12vdc  drops down to 7vdc when low speed is activate & basically zeros out when off.  No voltage to either relay coming out.  I have a 118vac going into the relay spade coming directly from theterminal block.   I replaced the downdraft board & fan speeds worked fine then.   Client said that she used the oven fans maybe 3 times in the following several weeks (I believe that)   I am back to square one now which same thing DC voltage in No relay voltage out.   I jumped the high speed side of motor out & it runs.   I did not jump the low speed out for fear of damaging wiring from standstill.   Is it possible that my fan motor is drawing to much currant as to be taking the relays out or am I grasping at air.  I did not think to take wattage of fan motor when jumping.  I had low ohms when I checked for resistance but nothing I can find to compare them to.   Should I be backing up to the PCB? 
  9. Dear Kind Appliantologists:    I have a Dacor ERD30S Duel fuel range.  I bought it 3 years ago and one of your helpful followers from Hickory NC converted it to propane.  We had the main board repaired by the helpful folks at out of Texas.  SInce the unit was torn apart, decided to replace the touchpad membrane at the same time.   It was purchased new from  Well after 3 short years the new membrane has thrown a F0 failure which appears to mean I need to replace it again, as the cancel/stop button is malfunctioning.  Well, this part is NLA.  I cannot find where this is a repairable/rebuildable item.  Anyone here know who might be a resource?  I have been able to reset the board (for now) but I'm certain this will come up again.  I hate to know I lose all of this wonderful hunk of cooking hardware because of a single part NLA.  Any suggestions anyone has would be appreciated.  Thank you.  Andrew Sugg Durham NC
  10. Any GE warrantee serviceman out there with experience replacing defective control panel on this particular wall oven GE JTP30SM2SS.   Touch panel is bubbling & manufacturer sent replacement control Board to customer under recall warranty.   I am asked to do replacement of panel.   Going site unseen although never being lazy have researched not only on appliantology but other sites as well.   Unable to find what I am searching for so I am looking for help in the technique of getting the job done with out any unforeseen difficulties.  All constructive advice is appreciated.   Note:  Durham I do not want to waste your time or invoke your wrath so please ignore this request.  i care about your health & do not wish to raise your blood pressure, save that for the younger folks.   Peace you old fart
  11. We are seeing quite a few of the main control boards for these units coming in for rebuild. The boards are failing in a variety of ways, causing symptoms like intermittent cooling, flashing display, adaptive defrost not converging, evaporator icing up, etc.   The boards are hard to find but we can rebuild the original for you. We currently have some inventory also. Typical Model Numbers: KBUDT4855E KBUDT4855E01 KBUDT4860A02 KBUDT4865E01 KBUDT4865E03 KBUDT4875E/01 KBULT3675E01 Main Control Board Part Numbers: 00656502 643635 653194 656502 865741
  12. I have a GE side by side model #psh23sgpabs that is not cooling at all. the condenser fan is coming on along with the evaporator fan, but he compressor wont start. I had a service man out today that said the inverter board is getting power but not sending enough power to the compressor to turn on. He jumped the compressor off the mother board and it still did not start. Looks like there is only about 44 volts coming out the inverter board to the compressor. He said that is not enough power.  I found an inverter board for $400 but don't know if it is worth it to fix because the refrigerator is 12years old. I would like to have the board repaired if possible. Can anyone please tell me the repair is worth it for a 12yr old frig, does it sound the the inverter board is the problem and can anyone repair the board instead of replace. Any help is appreciated.
  13. Confession:  I maxed the adjustment screw on the machine's water level sensor (pressure transducer?).   Problem:  Only get cold water through the pre-wash valve now.  I've verified all valves work and that it's a signal issue from the board.   Would like to know if there's a way to reset the system, or am I stuck ordering a new board?   Thanks! -Pat
  14.     Please tell me you know how to bring a control board back from the dead.  I ran the diagnostic on the control board. When I tested the voltage going to the compressor it was 12.7 volts, same at the fan. The compressor, relay, and start cap, etc. seemed to test fine. Some wise person decided that replacing the relays on the control board might fix the problem.  The board was back ordered and over $170.00. One fried relay later, (components are so cheap right?) The dc to dc converter and almost all the capacitors are now replaced.  However, the board is completely dead when plugged back in place. The light will turn on that is connected directly to the board, but the lcd display does not light up and the compressor still won't turn on.      (The board now acts as if it is not receiving power.)  The initial problem began when a spark at the wall socket occurred.  The next day the freezer began to thaw.  The refrigerator temperature sensor and the defrost thermostat were already replaced prior to frying the control board.  We are just able to replace the board now, much less the fridge. We crashed when the market crashed, we just haven't recovered at the same rate........... could really use some help. So not a samurai:( Would love some idea of how to get a real service manual instead of just a tech sheet or any other info that could lead to victory over ignorance. Thanks to anyone who can help. 
  15. After replacing my Whirlpool Gold fridge with a purchase of the above Kenmore, the kenmore has stopped cooling in the fresh food section (after 5 days of use). Freezer works; Damper does not seem to open. Evaporator coils appear throughly iced up. I have a mfr's warranty, but Sears won't send a tech for almost TWO WEEKS. So, I would like to go into forced defrost mode, to see if I can struggle through until the tech gets here. But, this unit arrived without a tech sheet. Trying the commands for the jazz board for so many Whirlpools (which was in my old Whirlpool,) nothing happens. Further research on the Web seems to indicate that this unit uses a control board #Part number: W10428901 . The jazz board I'm a little familiar with is part number #Part number: W10503278 , which I assume now is not the same design as the board on this Kenmore. . So, where do I find instructions on this Kenmore to go into forced defrost? Is that a function that exists on this Kenmore? Any advice would be appreciated.
  16. Hi,  In the repair video regarding the mother board on a GE fridge, it says that the mother board puts out 4 to 6 volts DC. My ZISB420DRJ Monogram Refridgerator mother board is putting of 11 volts DC. Is that correct? Is my fridge model different then the one in your repair video?
  17. Dishwasher runs about three minutes then beeps and smart auto, normal lights flash. Owners manual says " temperature heating error" I have power at the board and t202. Is there a way to test the heater without disassembling the dishwasher?   Red wire at t 202 to ground reads 0 ohms.   Thanks
  18. This washer keeps blowing out control boards.  The main control, motor control and interface have all been replaced.  The main control is burning out without taking out the motor control unit.  The motor windings all ohm out correctly.  Can the problem still be the motor, maybe pulling too much amperage when it heats up? Or should I be looking at the interference filter instead?
  19. Good evening master techs. A while back my Neptune TL washer's control panel was acting very peculiar after only a couple of normal years use. Some of the LED's did not light, but the machine beeped when you pushed the related button; it took on a psycho personality changing cycles at will. The thing even started in the middle of the night without human contact so I pulled the machine from the laundry room and moved it to the "I'll fix it one of these days" area of my garage. Well, "one of those days" just came up (five years later). After reading every related post I could find here, and elsewhere, I concluded it must be the control panel. The little voice in my head kept telling me to read out the old panel first, but there was too much evidence presented via the forums so I ordered a new panel (open box for $50 on eBay). I installed the new part within hours of its arrival and voilà, all the lights lit up. Happy, happy, happy! I moved the machine to the driveway to give it a test run just to make sure all those years of sitting didn't wreck the clutch or gaskets and when I plugged it in again the same lights were out. After going back to the posts, the new conclusion was that the control board must be bad. I found out a new board is a little more than I was willing to invest so i turned to my old friend eBay again and bought one for cheap. While waiting on that part to arrive I couldn't let go of the coincidence of two panels having the exact same issue so I broke down and read out the ribbon cable on the old panel with my meter. Low and behold there was no issue with the old panel. I pulled the board and started looking at the ribbon cable connector and it seemed the clips were not very tight. I know the locking clip is supposed to push the clips tight when fully depressed, but what if it didn't work as designed? The techs here have put the screws to the engineers of this machine so it became necessary to dig deeper. I manipulated the clips with a jeweler' screwdriver until they tightened up to what I felt was sufficient. Now with tightened up clips and everything back together the machine is purring along nicely in the "test bay". I may add a layer or two of clear nail polish to the non contact side of the ribbon cable before returning the machine to service just to add a little thickness and enhance the gripping force of the locking clip. I hope this helps others get a jump on troubleshooting their control panel issues and save a few bucks, if possible. I knew the importance of troubleshooting on the machine and not the Internet, but I guess I got a little lazy and wound up spending money that could have been spent on better things.
  20. i replaced a jazz board on this fridge.Fridge worked  ok for few days. Customer was away for the weekend came back tonight. Fridge is not working(both compartments warm) and on both freezer and FF display no numbers just a horizontal line  ( - ) . Does this look like a bad board or a board that is ok and lost its program code? Any help appreciated.
  21. Diagnosed a duet today where I believe the CCU is at fault.   F28 code with it dead after initial door lock & burst of water into tub.  Door unlocks for a few moments then locks again & that is it.   1st test after manually evacuating water from tub tried to out into diagnostic mode.   Went into & promptly displayed F28.   After cycling thru several other combinations of numbers & letters the unit finally settled on C:00 & that was it.  No more progress.   Next I checked the door latch mechanosm.  Door unlock DLS2.1 TO DLS2.2  0 volts.  Locked 122 Vac.   At the door switch I have some continuity at the various combinations pins DL3.3,2,&1  but no voltages at any combinations door locked/unlocked.   No voltage to drain pump at all.  Pump will run if jumped with 120Vac.   No DC voltage at MCU MI3.1,2,3. (Blue)  I get voltage 120vac at  (pink) MCU  MS2.1 & 2 but only for a brief moment when door locks.  Then a click in the CCU & the voltage dumps back to zero at MS2.  Door latch remains locked.  Machine is dead other than user interface lights.   I suspect that CCU is foobar.       My question is I have a new problem codes with the replacement CCU from Whirlpool and also reading of problems from replacement boards here at home appliantology has any body experienced trouble with this particular unit WFW9200SQ02 & it's replacement board W10169230.   A second question is has any one sent this board to Fix your board for CCU repair.  I do not particularly like the price tag of $250 plus Core charge from WP's parts suppliers.     Long winded & thank you for your feedback   Patricio   Pardon me if I overlooked anything long tiring day.  Tomorrow comes early
  22. I’m getting the LE locked motor error on my LG WM2487HWM, serial number #610KWPV02616, built in October 2008.  I replaced the Hall Effect sensor #6501KW2002A twice with new units and the Motor Harness #6877ER1016F with a new unit.     Everything I’ve read on this site points to the Main Control Board #6871ER1062G as the next option.  But before I plunk down $150 I want to be absolutely sure that it’s defective.  Is there a testing procedure that I'm not finding on the site? We have used only one detergent since purchasing the machine.  It’s HE and we have always used ½ the recommended dosage.  I weighed the largest load of clothing we would ever put in the washer and it weighed 10 lbs. dry.  Here is what I’ve done so far.   Received LE code on rare occasion.  Always cleared the code and restarted washer with success. Received LE code recently and while I could restart the machine, I got the LE error each time. Tried unplugging the machine for over an hour and drained the machine.  Got the LE code again. Replaced Hall Effect sensor #Part number: 6501KW2002A  with a new unit from The Repair Clinic, being sure that it was seated properly.  Rinse & Spin worked.  Empty load with detergent worked.  Successfully washed two loads of clothing. Received LE code on third load.  Reset machine and successfully ran the load. Fourth load has produced the LE code and continues to do so after each reset even after removing wet clothing and draining machine. Ran diagnostics sequence via the control panel.  All test results were good. Replaced the Motor Harness #Part number: 6877ER1016F  with a new unit from The Repair Clinic.  No change. I tore it down for reinspection.  The Hall Effect sensor is properly snapped into position.  All electrical connections are tight.  The splines are in great shape on both the motor shaft and rotor.  The rotor magnets look great.  I get 10.5 ohms across the three pins of the motor connector on the stator.  Stator looks great.  I’m getting 117 volts out of the Noise Filter.  The red LED on the Main Control Board lights instantly when pressing the power button on the front control panel. I reassembled the washer and ran the diagnostics.  All readings are within range tolerances. I ran an empty Rinse & Spin and then a very light load of clothes with detergent and had success.  I ran 4-5 more loads before receiving the LE error. I cleared the error and successfully ran three empty Rinse & Spin cycles. I received the LE error on the fourth empty LE cycle. Replaced Hall Effect sensor #Part number: 6501KW2002A  with a new unit from a local supplier, being sure that it was properly seated.  Three empty Rinse & Spin cycles worked.  Empty load with detergent worked.  Successfully washed two loads of clothing. I’m continuing to get the LE error code on occasion.  Sometimes with a very light load. I have checked all electrical connections for corrosion and full connection.  I disconnected all connections at the main PCB for corrosion and properly reseated all connections.  The board is in excellent visual condition.  I have hand-turned the drum on multiple occasions and found no obstructions.Thanks in advance for your input!   RB
  23. Maytag sxs esp fan not running. Replaced both fan motor and jazz board. Still not running. I have no tech sheet and cannot find the wiring schematic online. Don't know where to go from here. REALLY need that schematic! HELP ME !
  24. I went out on a built-in Kitchenaid yesterday that a previous service company had been out on 3 times.  Apparently the tech charged the unit with 134a and put in a new inverter board.  The customer said it ran and cooled for 2-days then died. When I arrived it was warm in both compartments and the compressor would not run.  All lights and fans run tho. By the way, this refrigerator runs on 230VAC apparently, so it threw me for a little curve ball.      I do not do sealed system work so did not check 134a levels.     Diagnostic mode did not indicate any errors.   Inverter gets 120VAC but the schematic says it should also get a 3-6VAC signal from the main control board from pins 3 and 8. It was not sending that 3-6VAC from the main control.             Is it possible the previous tech could have reverse wired the inverter? Would that even matter?    My first step will be to replace the inverter b/c I can return that full price if it does not fix the compressor no-run problem.  If that does not work then my next step will be to send in the main control board to CoreCentric to have it rebuilt.   Does anyone have experience on these units or advice on inverter board issues?   Thanks
  25. Hello appliantologists!  After struggling with my dishwasher for a while I found  this website and I hope it is going to end my hand dishwashing chores. My loving wife reqested a new dishwasher or if I want to fix an old one , I will be the one doing dishes until working machine is available . So the symptoms - the tmes of cycles increased by about 50%, no more hot steam when opening door at the end, lots of water at the bottom at the end of cycle and poor quality of cleaning of the dishes.Oh. when timer goes down to 1 minute it keeps working indefinitely  and not pumping water out. I have t stop the machine and simultaneously  press scrub and delicate buttons which causes complete emptying, "0" on the tmer and several beeps.  i checked for any blockage - not a problem. I checked emptying pump resistance an it is normal at 17 ohms. I ran diagnostic cycle and it showed no errors - ends whith beeping and "1". I found on line sears/kenmore manual for technicians (including my model). I found statement that "occasionally dishwasher may run for hours not finish washing and displaying "1" in the display. This means the module timed out due to unidentified heating problem - all heating related parts must be checked until the problem is found" I want to replace whatever needs to be replaced but i am not sure now what my next step should be. Any help would be greatly appreciated - skin on my hands is getting really wrinkled, thank you, Kris