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  1. Gentlemen, I could use some help. I have a pretty old Jenn-Air model# SVE47500b electric range that has not functioned properly for some time and I finally decided to try and fix it. The stovetop elements all work fine, but the front display is completely blank. Pressing the membrane buttons on the front results in "beeps" but nothing else. I did some research and ordered a relay control board (the small board on the back of the oven behind the stamped cover) but when I replaced that board it had no effect on the problem. I then replaced the clock board in the front of the unit and lo and behold I have a working display! However, when i pressed the "bake" button and input a temperature of 350 degrees (or really, any number), i almost immediately get an error code of "F5" and a continuous "beep" until I press "cancel" on the membrane keypad. Stove top elements still work fine, but oven doesn't heat up at all - I just get that error code. Anything else I can try, or do i need to call in a repair technician?  I'm wasn't quite ready to replace the oven yet (was going to wait until i did a kitchen remodel) and while I can return the relay control board (the old one performs indistinguishably from the new one), keeping the clock board means I've got a little under $300 into this repair and unless I can fix it for less than about $500 total I think I might just be looking at a replacement oven...
  2. Washer 110.28002010

    Need to know... The output of the motor control circuit should only put 120VAC on one winding (CCW or CW) at a time? If I measure the output of the control board I seem to get 120VAC on both windings, at the same time.The start capacitor checks good, so I'm thinking the Triac circuitry may have gone bad. It there a way the triac for the motor control can be replaced, instead of the whole control board? Whenever the motor is supposed to drive (spin, agitate) it just hums. As I said, there is 120VAC on both windings at this time. I would assume during spin, it should only have 120VAC on one winding (CW or CCW).... Have run the diagnostics and it keeps saying replace main control board. Seems there is a less expensive way to repair, $220.00 may be more than it is worth....
  3. Replacing the condenser fan motor and forgot to look which way the fan should have been placed back on the new motor.  I think the air flow should go over the coils and NOT towards the condenser, but the motor is pulling the air that direction.  1.) Is there a way to change the direction of the air flow (I don't think so) and 2.) if not, can it go towards the compressor without a problem?...if I leave the access panel off and allow the heat to escape?  I ordered the part from your affiliate (Appliance Parts Pro) and this is what they sent me....thanks in advance.
  4. Looked at this GE SXS last week. Customer complaint fridge was too warm in both compartments. Fridge 8 degr Celsius and Freezer - 5 degr. Celsius. Cond. fan motor was barely rotating. Compressor very hot and cut out on too high temperature. Took the cond fan motor out to check at home as per Samurai Video. Fan motor is fine. Left the fridge with a domestic fan behind the fridge to cool compressor and condenser coil. Fridge and freezer are working fine now. The motherboard is very hard to get here and very expensive!!.Leaves me with the option of having the original board repaired which leaves the customer with no fridge for a week. Can anybody tell me if I can install a small 220 volts fan motor like on the Amana 3 door bottom mount  G37025PEAS   Maytag Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor Part number: W10246191     and supply it with 220 volts by wiring it parallel to the compressor supply.( good old regular compressor).   This would give me the option of cutting cost for costumer leave with a very nice margin and probably a very happy customer who has not to manage a week with no fridge.   Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.
  5. Hello, We have a Kitchenaid model YKESC307HB8 stove.  I came on this forum a few years ago when the stove wouldn't heat properly and you folks helped me solve it.  Now I have a new problem.   When one goes to set the oven temperature and then hits the "Start" button, the oven won't heat at all.  There is a clicking noise coming from the stove and that's it.     I first checked the house power supply to the unit and the fuses are fine.  Then I checked the heating elements to look for brown out spots and couldn't find any.     I took the back of the stove off, saw all this wiring and then got a bit afraid that I wouldn't know what I was doing.  So I called in a stove repair person.   He took one look at the stove and said the "relay unit' isn't working.  Then he went on to say that since the stove was made in 2003, it was quite likely that parts for this would be unavailable.  He said he was going to go back and check.   So my question to you wise folks is does his trouble shooting analysis seem correct and, if so, are there parts available for this on the internet.  I live in Canada.   Many, many thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide.   With kind regards, Guy
  6. Unit had a noisy spin, gearcase leaking oil. I replaced the gearcase under extended warranty. I also replaced the cam assembly because it was loaded full of oil. Everything is running very smooth now. No Codes showing. I noticed the drive motor seemed hot. Around 126 degrees. Does anyone know if this is normal? I could not find any information on this subject. I eliminated any extra drag that may have occured with a gearcase going bad. The shift mechanism is working normally. Actually the machine is working great, but I have never noticed a motor getting that hot before.  
  7. This down draft fan low speed fan quit working early in the year the high speed quit working early July.  I had DC voltage coming into the board From the J4 connector cable coming from PCB.   12vdc  drops down to 7vdc when low speed is activate & basically zeros out when off.  No voltage to either relay coming out.  I have a 118vac going into the relay spade coming directly from theterminal block.   I replaced the downdraft board & fan speeds worked fine then.   Client said that she used the oven fans maybe 3 times in the following several weeks (I believe that)   I am back to square one now which same thing DC voltage in No relay voltage out.   I jumped the high speed side of motor out & it runs.   I did not jump the low speed out for fear of damaging wiring from standstill.   Is it possible that my fan motor is drawing to much currant as to be taking the relays out or am I grasping at air.  I did not think to take wattage of fan motor when jumping.  I had low ohms when I checked for resistance but nothing I can find to compare them to.   Should I be backing up to the PCB? 
  8. Turn on, and it sounds like a blower motor. Drum doesn't turn, no other action.
  9. I am trying to replace the pump/motor assembly in my dishwasher.  Unfortunately, it seems that it's so old (at least 15 years) that the model number isn't listed anywhere online.  I ordered the part that was listed as the replacement for all washers made after 1970 (Part number: WD26X10013 ) but my existing pump doesn't look like any of the removal/replacement illustrations in the instructions.  I'm having trouble seeing how this part will fit, as the connection to the impeller doesn't seem to be the simple hose that all of the videos show.  IOW, even after I have disconnected all hoses, wires, and the hanger, I cannot simply "remove" the motor. Any help at all, even "You're SOL - just return the part" would be useful at this point!
  10. OK... getting a 3E error on my maytag MAH8700A washer.   Need to check the resistance on the 1,2,3 pins to see if they are around 3 Ohms.  OK.  Problem is... I cannot for the life of me figure out how to unlock the molex connector to the motor.  How do I release the lock?  DOH!    
  11. We replaced the blower housing after plastic broke around the shaft's nut.  Reassembled and the motor hums but nothing turns.  Motor shaft and blower blades turn easily by hand.  With the drum out, when we turn the blades by hand and start it, it seems to catch and spin about 2 seconds without a hum, then we hear a click and it turns off.    Tested the thermal fuse with a multimeter - is OK.  Cleaned and double checked all connections are correct.    Before the blower housing repair, the drum was still turning and drying clothes, it was just noisy at the beginning and end (from the blower housing blades spinning/bouncing a few extra times).   Any suggestions? ... please?
  12. Okay, I'm an appliance dummy, and maybe an ohmmeter dummy as well. Had the F25 (motor tach) code show up. Pulled it out, checked the hoses, wiring, filter, the usual stuff. Got into the plug-in connectors to check the ohms on the motor(s), and it makes no sense. The Motor plug-in block reads (from the top downward):   1-2 = 0 ohms  2-3 = 0 1-3 = 0   At the corresponding panel (the white box on the side, where the harness goes back to): 1-2 = 18 ohms 2-3 = 4, but then goes up to 1K 1-3 = 1K   While I was at it, I tried the two poles on the little pump motor below the tub: 0 ohms.   Okay, I realize I've got a little POS GB Instruments (GMT-312) multimeter(0 to1K), but come'on. Yes, the battery's new & I did zero it.   What's up with the readings? Any feedback appreciated.
  13. Greetings Appliantologists!   The wife and I let our screeching washer go too long before addressing the problem and it is now dead. No power.   I have: Unplugged it, waited several minutes, and plugged it back in with no change.  
  14.   This dishwasher keeps giving i20 codes moer and more frequently.  The interface, rear control panel and drain pump have all been replaced.  Once a part was relpaced, it worked ok for a little while, but soon started giving the code again.  Frigidaire says the code means the unit isn't draining, but it drains completely and quickly.  Any other ideas what could cause this code?    
  15. Good afternoon fellow appliance an issue here I have been working on for a few weeks now and can't seem to get it under control. I got called to a customer's Frigidaire Gallery Bottom Freezer refrigerator for complaints of the fresh food section getting warm. They said they started to notice it getting warmer when the weather outside got warm as well. I went there and opened up the freezer and it was completely iced up as well as up the chute to the ice maker in the fresh food section. It even looked a little frosted up in the ice maker evaporator section as well. I unplugged the fridge and let it completely thaw out. I tested all known functions of both the freezer and ice maker defrost systems. The heaters and thermostats tested out fine so I thought maybe it just needed a good thaw.   After allowing it to thaw and plugging it back in the customer said it worked fine for about a week and a half but once again got warm in the fresh food section. I returned to the home and saw the freezer had frosted completely over again. I know this fridge model has issues with the ice maker so I decided to unhook the ice maker and see if by some chance that was where the issue was. Thawed the fridge again and went on my way.   One week later the customer called again and said the same symptoms have returned. My question is is it possible that the freezer thermostat is sticking and would still need to be replaced if it tested well? Anything else I can test? Is it something with the control panel? Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. I am at a loss right this moment and would welcome any and all ideas.   P.S I ran both the fridge and ice maker diagnostic tests and everything appeared fine.   Thanks in advance all!
  16. I have a 2001 Frigidaire Range.  Three times recently the motorized oven door lock has activated and locked the door without the Self-Cleaning feature being selected.  Twice it happened when the oven was in use.  The 3rd time was about 15 minutes after the oven had been turned off.    Looking at the Wiring Diagram, it appears that the EOC (Electronic Oven Control) is the only thing that could cause this failure.  I can't see how a motor failure could do it.  The EOC is a very pricey unit.  Can someone confirm for me that this is the logical place for the failure?   Also, my tenant is afraid that the self-cleaning cycle is going to start on its own, but I have told them that the motor wouldn't start the self-cleaning cycle.  Yet, if the EOC is failing, I suppose it could cause that failure also.  Should they be concerned?   Thank you!
  17. Have been investigating and watching videos, etc. for my LG dishwasher LDF7811ST, including this video by ( ).  I have checked the wires behind the door, they look fine. I have checked the impeller for debris ... no debris, but impeller doesn't turn by hand (should it normally)   So it sounds like the vario motor is probably the problem.   Should I replace just the vario motor (about $80) or the whole sump assembly (about $134). If there is absolutely no reason to replace the whole thing, that makes sense, but if there is a chance that the whole assembly could have issues, I'm glad to replace that too (make sure the whole thing is operating well with good gaskets, etc.)   Are there any other possible things to look for, or am I in the right direction?   Thank you!
  18. Recently, My frigidaire dishwasher circulation motor started making a winding noise. I opened the door and the jets were not running or moving at all.  I pulled the dishwasher out and flipped it over on its back after turning off the power supply. Then removed the motor and inside the cover there was dust like pencil led. So I removed the motor and turned the power supply back on and the motor is running in reverse so the impellers cant force the water into the jet arm to wash the dishes. My gut tells me its a bad motor,but could it be the control board? 
  19. My washer was making a grinding noise partway though the wash, and after poking around online and in the washer I realized that the motor coupler was broken.  I ordered a new (plastic) coupler and replaced the broken one and thought I had the problem licked. When I tried running the washer with a small load to test that everything was ok I noticed that the tub wasn't spinning (I had removed the lid latch switch so I could operate it manually- it works), and removing the motor again I determined that the coupler was stripped, possibly because I did not mate the coupler firmly enough with the motor.   I replaced the stripped half with the unbroken old coupler half making sure that it was firmly seated, and tried to run a load, and it promptly cracked.  Did I do something wrong, or is there something else wrong with the washer leading to the failed couplers?  The tub turns both CW and CCW without too much difficulty, and the transmission shaft turns by hand CCW for a few turns and then needs a wrench for a turn before becoming easier in a cycle, and CW can be turned by hand for a few turns and then starts to turn the tub with more resistance and then won't turn anymore even with a wrench. Does this sound like a problem with the transmission? Any help would be appreciated. thnx
  20. I have had many service calls this last few months on AMANA  Bottom mount fridges usually AB1924PEKW or very similar. In 9 out of 10 cases it is an iced over freezer coil and simply a matter of replacing the defrost thermostat.Lately I had some fridges were I had to replace the jazzboard. In 1 case the jazzboard was so badly damaged that I decided to replace both board and freezer fan motor. My friend who works for the company here in Israel, who represents Amana, told me once that the evaporator fan motor is very often the cause of the board failure. Can anybody tell me what kills these boards and how do I decide if I replace just the board(when it looks healthy by vision) or any additional parts.
  21. Just installed a new control board. starter relay and run capacitor are showing no life on testing. There's no clicking on plugin at all. No resistance when testing with ohm meter on either run capacitor or relay. Compressor is testing fine from electrical standpoint.    Before I purchase a new overload start relay and run capacitor, I have a question. It doesn't appear that any current is even making it to the start relay. Does this make sense?
  22. Yesterday I went out on a Samsung TL washer, WA456* style, which was intermittently giving a 3E motor overcurrent error. Previous tech had replaced the rotor and stator to no avail. After checking everything relevant in the tech lit, we were left with only one possibility: the customer was overloading it.  We called the customer down to broach this delicate topic, which she adamantly denied. "I only put 10 t-shirts and two pairs of jeans in it!" she exclaimed, gesturing wildly. "Sure you did, sure you did," my inner monologue exclaimed. "I think it's the shocks!" said the customer. *eye roll*. "Why do you think it's the shocks?" I inquired. "Well, because the tub is hanging down about 6 inches below the bottom of the lid. "Give me a few moments more, and I will let you know what I find." Turns out the machine was overloading itself, with water. It was filling all the way up to the tub cover, which was causing the overcurrent error in the motor. We did some further testing and found the proper frequency at the pressure transducer, and at the board, so the determination is bad main board, which not reading or processing the input correctly.    TLDR: motor overload errors can be caused by too much water in the tub.
  23. This unit opened the thermal fuse, thus had a lit control board but a non functioning dryer.   I replaced the fuse with an electrolux limit (same temp rating, 222f) & monitored the operating thermostat which cycled OK.    Got a call 30 minutes after I left that the dryer went dead again.   Searching a parts diagram I found a part labeled relay.   I have had the whirlpool even heat dryers have stuck relays with the relay stuck closed & overheating the dryer & blowing the thermal limit out.   I am wondering has any other tech had experience with this unit, especially with the fuse being burnt.   I would have replace the 'thermal control' (operating 'stat) with a whirlpool if I had one (need better inventory control).  I really don't know at the moment what is causing the limit to overheat, it is not the dryer venting (short & clear)   Looking forward to experiance with this model.    My 1st time.
  24. I have been working on a laundry center washer for a while now that the drive motor hums when it tries to go to agitate or spin. I first replaced the motor with a used motor I purchased that was said to be tested and good. After replacing the same condition existed. I then found the Capacitor to be leaking oil and replaced it with a new one. Still had same problem so the only thing left was the timer control that I thought had a bad set of contacts in it. Still no luck so I put the old motor back in and actually got it to go into agitate one time and complete one full cycle empty of clothes. 1st load with clothes and only hummed and tripped the overload as it had been. Should I assume the motor I purchased was bad and the start winding is no good? I'm getting good 120 volts at start winding and run winding during the hum. I can also bump the belt and get the motor to run fine once started.
  25. I think the damper Part number: WR49X10091  must be causing the following noise for 3 days: Loud clicking noise from refrigerator compartment above or behind the top light, very loud with the door open. Clicks exactly 21 times over 16 seconds, and repeats every 5 minutes since yesterday.   -- Would the cause of the noise do further damage, and if so, to what?  Regardless, I'm planning on disassembling it shortly to investigate. I read there are three dampers in the refrigerator and not just one. -- Are the other two dampers manual or electric? And, where are the other two located? -- How many thermistors are there in this damper circuitry? -- Where are they, and is the resistance the same as you've stated elsewhere for all of the thermistors? For years, the refrigerator side has been at a consistently lower temp on the refrigerator than it was set for, by about 5 degrees.   Since the noise started, the freezer and refrigerator temperatures are "almost normal". Freezer Evaporator Fan Dying?  Time to at least buy a spare? I noticed when opening the freezer, that the fan was not running initially. Isn't it supposed to run anytime the door is closed? To try to start the motor, I opened and closed the door switch quite a few times without success. Then, although it started, it didn't reach full speed until about 15 seconds later. After that, it was consistently starting and coming up to speed normally when opening and closing the door switch. I read your post that motors that don't start easily are about ready to fail. -- Is there any easy test, like stop the motor by hand and see if it restarts easily? If the evaporator / freezer motor fails completely, I will have no refrigeration, except for a block of ice in the back. If it does stop working, a spare would be wise to have on hand, especially if I suspect it is going bad. -- If you agree, what is the correct evaporator fan motor model # and link? Starting with my model PSI23NGMBB, in that page for the freezer section, they listed the motor, part #610 for which there were three different models of fans listed. Yet, when I tried to verify that each of the three were compatible with my model PSI23NGMBB, none of these three fans (below) that were recommended, were compatible with the website check: Possible motors for # 610 from the diagram for model PSI23NGMBB, but none of these pages confirm compatibility, So which motor is compatible? -- For the motor WITH the thermistor, order Part number: WR60X10074 . -- For the motor WITHOUT the thermistor, order part number Part number: WR60X10185 -- This motor includes the defrost thermostat, sensor, and evaporator fan motor. Harness includes the connection for the light. Order Part number: WR23X10467 , -- Without dis-assembly before I order, how can I tell which model fan I need for my model PSI23NGMBB ? All the motors appear to be identical Panasonic models, (including the condenser motor).  -- Why can't I just order the cheapest motor I can find, and manually wire it into the harness after clipping the wires of the old motor and splicing it in?