Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'gallery/defrost+heater'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Found 148 results

  1. Hi, Why is my GE refrigerator model# GTS18KCMARBB defrost drain/line continually freezing, resulting in leaking water from freezer into lower 'fridge? My GE refrigerator model# GTS18KCMARBB is leaking water from the freezer into the lower 'fridge. I unclogged the freezer defrost line about a month ago and the leaking stopped. But the leaking has continued and after opening the back of the freezer I found that the defrost drain was once again filled with ice. I will unclog it like I did the last time but would like to not have to do it again in 1-2 months. Is the entire drain line to the drain pan clogging? If so, can I do anything with the drain line such as modify any attachments to it such as a grommet (if there is one)? Is there something malfunctioning rather with the defrost timer? Thank you in advance for your time and assistance. Sincerely, Tim
  2. I'm wrestling with a defrost issue with Frigidaire side by side. Had it serviced by a tech due to a drop in temp and alarm beeping. Coils were completely encased in ice. After manually defrosting, heater and defrost thermostat were tested to be within spec. Conclusion of the tech was " bad main control board". Quoted price was 300.00 plus labor. I sourced the part locally (new) and replaced it myself. Fridge came to temp quickly and held with no issues for about a week then the same symtoms appeared - back wall and coils completely iced over, obviously not defrosting. What do I look at next?
  3. Happy new year to all! My question is which or if a universal defrost timer may be used to replace factory defrost timer SONXIE # DBZA-1608-2D3 it's a low end frige need to keep repair  cost to a minimum. Would appreciate any suggestions.  Thanks, George 
  4. Made a call today for a frozen freezer warm refrigerator.  Parts house did not have bimetal, control board or thermistor in stock, have to make a order from ware house 2 days away.  Client is a friend who makes killer tamales. (Yea I work for food).  Cant put into defrost with normal WP key dances.   Evaporator solid block of ice.  Compressor just pumping away.  Temp -14.   Defrost with steamer to get access to limit.    Limit looks OK  will  meter it when I put into diagnostic defrost cycle.Freezer Thermistor is in channel running to light receptacle at front of freezer. As I work at melting ice I notice that refrigerator door switch controls Evap fan.   nothing else unb usual.    Have way thru job I push & hold on off button on user interface control board.   Lights on interface power off as well as Evap & condenser fans.  Compressor keeps on pumping.    Hit the evap coils with stem which melts frost & it frosts right back up.   Thinking control board got to be a little bonkers.   Pull up a service sheet for a 106.74202402 here on Apliantology,  close enough I guess.  Entry into diagnostic mode is different than I have done before.  Tomorrow I will try to put it into defrost to see if it will go before ordering a new board.   This unit is 10 years old, something I have not seen.  Even the IM is different, has a squirrel cage fan mounted to the module head.     All positive comments welcomed  I am leaning toward new board.
  5. Two issues here, I think.   First and most critical:  Frost build up in freezer and  ice blocking the two vents at the roof inside refrig compartment.  (So far,  I've unplugged unit, melted all ice, and removed back panel of freezer)   Second:  Refrig. compartment has always been slow to recover from door opening.   Takes forever for it to get back to temperature. (Has  been like this since I bought it 4 1/2 months ago at Salvation Army.)   Thanks
  6. LG bottom freezer has ER DH on display. OK, First of all, this fridge does not have a cooling issue and does not have ice building up in the freezer. Defrost heater and terminator are closed. Defrost thermistor is showing correct readings. The board does defrost in test mode. Customer explained the fridge made some loud clicking noises repeatedly and then had the error. He explained that a week or two later the same noise was heard and the error has now gone away. It has continued without error for 2 days now. I reccomend starting out by changing the thermistor/terminator assembly but I am betting it's the board. Maybe someone has seen this issue before. Also, I have had quite a few LGs that have had wiring issues, I found this by trying to test the DF heater from the board and read open, but when going in the replace the heater it tested food. This issue may be happening intermittently. ANY help is aprecciated.
  7.  i am a service tech . with a small company . i have a ge  refrigerator  model pfs22misbb or pfs22m1sbb   the cust called me and said the freezer was at -9 f  and the refrig was at 50 f . i went out to check it the evap coils were completely  frosted over . so no air could pass through them  so the refrig would be warm . i removed the frost build up off the coils   checked the defrost thermostat  was not popped  i left enough frost around it to check to make sure it was closed . it was the heater was fine  i used my meter to check it . the evap fan was running . so i thought ok heater is good thermostat good has to be the main board . change the board . told the cust givwe it 24 hours to get stable  . week later cust calls , keith its doing it again same thing .go out sure enough coils frosted over again . i spoke to my buddy who worked with ge for awhile . he said the evap fan may be stopping . ok go and change that . week later same thing coils frosted over again .i am going crazy at this point . i went back yesterday replaced the defrost thermostat . i noticed there are 3 thermistors  used in this unit the parts break down shows 2 . . i saw one tied to the evap coil in the freezer . it was the old style . i remembered samsung had a issue with the defrost thermistor on their units . i cant find any diagram of this model and dont have connections to ges tech support . so i changed the thermistor  on the evaporator line . at this point i dont know what more to do . if anyone has any leads please let me know 
  8. I have the afore mentioned Samsung Side by Side refrigerator Model # RS267RSLB. The defrost heater is not working. I have defrosted the substantial ice build up on the refrigerator side manually and for a couple of weeks the refrigerator will work fine for a couple of weeks. I know the ice buildup is occurring when the refrigerator rises to 50 degrees and won't go lower. I assume the defrost heater assembly needs to be replaced. However parts catalogs for this model show Samsung Part Number AP5588117 The defrost heater currenty installed is different in appearance, it covers the entire evaporator coil,, Any suggestions on how I might find the correct part number? I am also not sure how to test the entire defrost heater assembly end to end, will continuity when at cold temps confirm it is good?    ​Your help and guidance would be much appreciated.  John in North Carolina
  9. GE SXS fridge: MOD: GSL25JFTCB   I havent been out to this call yet but customer complains freezer is defrosting items and melting ice, then refreezes stuff, and ice clumps together.  I haven't found anything here on appliantology about it for this model. Anybody heard of this problem before? Or on other models?  What may cause this?  Thanks 
  10. Looked at this fridge last week.Customer complaint leaking water every now and then. Found a nice sheet of ice at the bottom of the freezer side. Got rid of all the ice and noticed that the evaporator  cover goes all the way to the bottom of the freezer side.(Not like the older models that had a small gap that gives access to the drain-hole) .Did not have time to start taking apart the 2 rails that hold the shelves to get the cover out. When I looked at the back of the fridge the motor compartment only takes up 1/2 the width of the fridge and no access from the back to the drain-pipe.Is there a smart solution for this problem or do I have to go back next week and do it the hard way. BTW when I go back I was thinking to cut a 2 inch hole in the back panel and cover it with some 1/8 thick sticky rubber insulation material that would give me or the customer easy access if it reoccurs.   Any suggestions appreciated  !!!   Can someone please tell me if there is  a way to perform a forced defrost on this model?
  11. GE FUF14DADRWH Have had trouble with this almost since it was new - probably since it was new but it just took a while for ice to build up and cause a problem.  Ice builds up in the bottom below the coil and eventually plugs the air flow into the coil.  I pulled the unit apart and checked the heater and thermostat.  Thought the thermostat was bad but think I just didn't get it cold enough.  Put things back together and put a wattmeter on the input.  Then advanced the defrost timer to trigger a defrost.  At that point it had been running a few weeks since manual defrost and had a bit of ice in the bottom with the drain plugged by ice.  Here is what I got:   Time      Current     Watts 6:31         1.86        123       Running normally 6:32         3.47         401      Start if defrost  6:39           0.01       1.7       Heater cut off 6:54          2.19         172     Compressor restarts 7:37          1.91         134      So it seems the defrost is working.  Is this just a design issue and I will have to manually defrost the freezer every 6 months?  That wouldn't be that bad.  Don't want to replace parts if it isn't going to fix the problem.   If I go the manual defrost route is there any reason I shouldn't disconnect the defrost heater?  I suppose the coil may frost up quicker?   TIA for any help.        
  12. I need help finding information about the code in the defrost blinking light and/or wiring diagram to isolate the problem of no running of the compressor except for unplug and then replug and unit goes into defrost mode momentarily then shuts down.
  13. Hello,   The coils in my freezer are icing up & blocking airflow. The defrost thermostat tested good, so I think I might have a bad defrost control board as I'm not getting power to the heater element. I tried to force a defrost cycle by opening & closing the freezer door switch 4 times in 8 seconds, but didn't get power to heater. Is there anything else I should be checking? This board has been discontinued; is it possible to wire in a mechanical defrost timer & do away with the board?   Thanks!
  14. Unit won't defrost. I have followed various troubleshooting/repair guides on line and finally replaced the main board. Unit still won't defrost on its own or by using the self diagnostic mode. I am at a complete loss as to what the problem might be.
  15. File Name: Frigidaire Refrigerator - Freezer ADC Defrost Activation Procedures File Submitter: Applianceman97 File Submitted: 10 Jul 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Frigidaire Refrigerator/Freezer Defrost Activation, This includes defrost activation for various models of frigidaire and electrolux models Click here to download this file
  16. Version

    34 downloads

    Frigidaire Refrigerator/Freezer Defrost Activation, This includes defrost activation for various models of frigidaire and electrolux models
  17. I have a Samsung RF26HFENDSR/AA that was serviced due to ice buildup apparently from a control module that wasn't signaling the defrost cycle.  They steamed it out and a couple weeks later replaced the part (had to order it).  After replacing it I had some noise comeback, but they didn't clean it out when they came back.  I did a bit of a defrost by leaving the freezer open with the power off, but I was wondering if there was a way to manually trigger the defrost cycle.  I've read in the blog here how to do it, but it's for a different model (same with some youtube videos).  Does anyone know the sequence for this model?  I'd a newer, french door model.  Holding down power freeze and freezer turns cooling off.
  18. This built-in 2-3 year old fridge builds up ice in rear freezer section. Got it apart back to the evaporator and found ice built up below it, behind the back panel. The customer had already defrosted the rest of the ice. Found the defrost drain with a heater inside. There is a plastic cover around the evaporator and could not see how to get it off and gain access to ohm out the drain heater, etc.   Is there a corresponding Samsung model # I can use to find a service manual? Did not have time to roll it out and look at the bottom end of drain tube. Lately on fridges in general I have been making the Whirlpool P trap kit work at bottom of the drain if there is just a straight tube at drain pan, rather than installing/replacing a drain heater. Seems to be working out, so was wondering if I can go that way instead of replacing drain heater.   Thanks!     John Frary J T Appliance Service Los Alamos, NM Main Tel. 505-412-3781 Direct Cell 505-709-0079
  19.   This dishwasher keeps giving i20 codes moer and more frequently.  The interface, rear control panel and drain pump have all been replaced.  Once a part was relpaced, it worked ok for a little while, but soon started giving the code again.  Frigidaire says the code means the unit isn't draining, but it drains completely and quickly.  Any other ideas what could cause this code?    
  20. Good afternoon fellow appliance gurus.....got an issue here I have been working on for a few weeks now and can't seem to get it under control. I got called to a customer's Frigidaire Gallery Bottom Freezer refrigerator for complaints of the fresh food section getting warm. They said they started to notice it getting warmer when the weather outside got warm as well. I went there and opened up the freezer and it was completely iced up as well as up the chute to the ice maker in the fresh food section. It even looked a little frosted up in the ice maker evaporator section as well. I unplugged the fridge and let it completely thaw out. I tested all known functions of both the freezer and ice maker defrost systems. The heaters and thermostats tested out fine so I thought maybe it just needed a good thaw.   After allowing it to thaw and plugging it back in the customer said it worked fine for about a week and a half but once again got warm in the fresh food section. I returned to the home and saw the freezer had frosted completely over again. I know this fridge model has issues with the ice maker so I decided to unhook the ice maker and see if by some chance that was where the issue was. Thawed the fridge again and went on my way.   One week later the customer called again and said the same symptoms have returned. My question is is it possible that the freezer thermostat is sticking and would still need to be replaced if it tested well? Anything else I can test? Is it something with the control panel? Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. I am at a loss right this moment and would welcome any and all ideas.   P.S I ran both the fridge and ice maker diagnostic tests and everything appeared fine.   Thanks in advance all!
  21. blocked or frozen drain tube right?  Notorious for evap leaks w/iceball in bottom left.
  22. Hello all,    My first post although I've used infor on this sight main times! I have what may be a unique problem or perhaps not........ My Kitchenaid French door lower freezer model KFIS29PBMS00 does not cool in the upper fridge section. There is a smaller condenser coil in this upper section that does frost up and will eventually ice over. The lower main coil in the freezer section does not frost up or ice up so I know the heater etc is working. I thought perhaps the evaporator fan and thermostat may have an issue and replaced them. Still, upper fridge is not cooling enough. I dont know how it gets it's cool air as the lower freezer does cool the "pantry" drawer that has it's own temp control and that works fine. Everything else in the upper fridge does not cool sufficiently. I believe this fridge uses a dual coil system. So, is the problem that upper coil and what can I do to fix the issue?   Thanks very much!   Bluemoon
  23. Trying to force defrost but cant remember how to has addaptive defrost control
  24. I am looking for a defrost timer for the MCBR1000S.  Yes, I understand that it is a considered by many posting here as a piece of junk.  I bought it new at Home Depot as a scratch and dent item for about $70.  I am using it inside of a garden shed down by the beach at our lake house as a beer fridge. Its worked well for about 8 years down by the water and has saved me many steps back to the main house.  It stopped defrosting last fall and the fan would eventually frost over and make noise.  Time to fix it.   The defrost timer is tagged:   10A  Non-Ind 1/3 hp 8 hour timer with a 7 minute defrost time.  Invensys Spec No CD-2001-57.  Wire harness is a 2 3 4   1.  I have not found any local repair houses with parts.  Most can not even find it.  Only a few online places even recognize the MCBR1000S and those that do send me to a timer that is a 16 hours cycle with 8 minutes of defrost.  The harness looks identical, but I am assuming that the double cycle time will result in inadequate defrosting.    Any assistance if locating the correct part number or source would be appreciated. 
  25. I have a Whirlpool Fridge GB2SHDXTS01, refrigerator with bottom drawer freezer.  I replaced the thermostat a couple of months ago, everything seemed to be working fine until I noticed yesterday the evaporator completely frosting over blocking air flow to the fridge.  The thermostat shows continuity as expected.  I have a new heater element on hand (didn't replace it with last thermostat change) and the resistance of the existing measures close (within 0.3 ohms) to the new one.  I bypassed the thermostat and the heater element didn't get warm at all.  I plugged in the new one and nothing either.   What voltage should I be measuring at the heater terminals?  What should I check next?    Thank you for the help, Joe