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  1.   This dishwasher keeps giving i20 codes moer and more frequently.  The interface, rear control panel and drain pump have all been replaced.  Once a part was relpaced, it worked ok for a little while, but soon started giving the code again.  Frigidaire says the code means the unit isn't draining, but it drains completely and quickly.  Any other ideas what could cause this code?    
  2. Good afternoon fellow appliance gurus.....got an issue here I have been working on for a few weeks now and can't seem to get it under control. I got called to a customer's Frigidaire Gallery Bottom Freezer refrigerator for complaints of the fresh food section getting warm. They said they started to notice it getting warmer when the weather outside got warm as well. I went there and opened up the freezer and it was completely iced up as well as up the chute to the ice maker in the fresh food section. It even looked a little frosted up in the ice maker evaporator section as well. I unplugged the fridge and let it completely thaw out. I tested all known functions of both the freezer and ice maker defrost systems. The heaters and thermostats tested out fine so I thought maybe it just needed a good thaw.   After allowing it to thaw and plugging it back in the customer said it worked fine for about a week and a half but once again got warm in the fresh food section. I returned to the home and saw the freezer had frosted completely over again. I know this fridge model has issues with the ice maker so I decided to unhook the ice maker and see if by some chance that was where the issue was. Thawed the fridge again and went on my way.   One week later the customer called again and said the same symptoms have returned. My question is is it possible that the freezer thermostat is sticking and would still need to be replaced if it tested well? Anything else I can test? Is it something with the control panel? Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. I am at a loss right this moment and would welcome any and all ideas.   P.S I ran both the fridge and ice maker diagnostic tests and everything appeared fine.   Thanks in advance all!
  3. Old basket nut cogs worn out. How do I remove old basket nut from agitator? New parts on the way.
  4. I made a major amateur mistake on a Frigidaire Gallery electric dryer 2 weeks ago and it cost me today. I was installing the rear bearing kit part number: Part number: WE25X10001   The tiny little stainless steel ball that goes in the rear bearing, GOES BEHIND THE PLASTIC BEARING!!!!!   I put it in front (where there really is no room at all for it when the drum mount ball bearing slides in) and eventually the ball worked to the bottom of the white plastic bearing.  This caused the small ball to dig a massive line through the large ball bearing mounted to the back of the drum as well as causing terrible screeching (even with the high temp lube).    My bad. My call back. My time.  My money lost. MAJOR BUMMER for simply not putting a small metal ball in the correct place!!! THE BACK OF THE PLASTIC BEARING....NOT THE FRONT!!!! I stand humbled.   Lesson learned. I just wanted to share this with other techs and DIY'ers.      ....Its a good thing my customers were so nice and appreciative.  I've had others not so accepting of mishaps.
  5. Looking for service manual. Need to know how to crack it open.
  6. I am receiving an E5E error code for a model GLTF2940ES0 washing machine. I have checked all connection on control board and motor control board and still receive the error. The machine starts to fill, stops, starts, but never really washes clothes. The drain pump is doing the same, running for a second and shutting off. I had problems with items clogging the pump beforee and decided to check it out, it seemed like it was hard to spin. is this normal? Could the pump be an issue even if the machine displays the E5E error code?  I decided to watch the machine one more time before posting this and its doing something completely different, nothing engages and the error code displayed is E14 indicating a reed switch issue!    Pleas help!
  7. Front loading Frigidaire gallery will not drain and spin on regular cycles. The appliance only drains and spins when switched to drain cycle. Washer fills up, and stops working.
  8. New to this forum type talk...My GE washer Mod.GTWN4000MOWS Stainless steel basket (WH45x10060). the center hub has been eaten away. Parts people want $500 for replacement basket, baskets fine GE doesn't sell hub by it's self for stainless...but does for plastic style.  Found a plastic type basket (WH45x10120) complete with hub new for $75.  Found that GE made my washer type in two versions plastic and stainless basket. Since the baskets installs the same on a hub nut and split ring mount. is it the price point that makes them different.  Can not find any dimensions for either. any help would be great.
  9. Version

    39 downloads

    Pub No. 134458900
  10. File Name: Frigidaire Gallery Washer GLTF1670AS0 Tech Sheet File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 20 May 2013 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Pub No. 134458900 Click here to download this file
  11. So my Frigidaire Gallery dishwasher (model #GLDB957AB2) has been acting up lately. It's has started clicking and the LEDs dim in time which means there's a current draw or power issue. I had an awful time reproducing it as the machine will run through its test cycles forever without any trouble. However, about 1/2 way into a normal washing routine, it starts clicking. Open the door for 5 minutes and the problem goes away for a bit. Leave the machine alone, and it starts clicking more frequently and eventually shuts itself off for a few minutes (power interuption mode) and restarts 90s later. I disassembled it and it appears to be a 120v/20A relay on the electronics board behind behind the front cover. Below is a video: Warming the relay with a hot-air gun made it click much more frequently; blowing cool air across it stopped the clicking completely. So, assuming I can order/pickup a single $1 relay locally, it looks like this will be a quick 5 minute fix with the soldering iron. The other possibility is a major power draw downstream, i.e. the pump or heating element but I hope not. I'd be interested in hearing everyone else's opinion. Inopportune timing on this as I have guests arriving for a week on Sunday. I have a used, commercial dishwasher waiting in the shed but wanted to wait until I reno the kitchen done before I install it as it requires some plumbing revisions and 240v/30A wiring.
  12. Just replaced motor, door switch and timer in August and the dryer has worked great until today when it stopped working midway through a cycle. It will not restart. Checked for loose connections that may have worked loose from my earlier repair and all connections seem to be intact. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  13. My nearly 10 year old Frigidaire dryer seems to be on it's last leg, but because it's a stacked unit we would have to replace both washer and dryer to keep it in the existing space in our laundry room, since the newer units will not stack on the washer. Therefore I'm trying to fix it and looking for some solutions. 1.) The dryer continues through it's cycle regardless if the door is open or not, door light will go on and off but the dryer continues to tumble. When the dryer reaches the end of a cycle the buzzer will run indefinitely. The only way to stop it is to unplug the machine. 2.) Although the dryer cycle continues the dryer itself, heat and tumbling stops intermittently throughout the cycle but because the cycle continues it will start back after being shut down for 10-20 minutes. Just before stopping, the dryer begins to slow down and, loudly, strains to a stop. Thanks in advance for any assistance in resolving these problems.
  14. New Version Of The Cabrio Washer with A Hub Nut

    From the album Washer Repair

    See this topic for more info ==> http://appliantology...5600xw0-cabrio/ Order parts for your Cabrio washer here ==> http://www.repaircli...ine-Repair-Help
  15. Hub Nut On A Maytag SAV2655AWW Washer

    From the album Washer Repair

    Read more in this topic ==>
  16. Model fse748gfs0 / serial xd83162405 Where the dryer lint filter thingy is there is a plastic part held in by two screws. On this there are two sensors and some tabs for insulated connectors that r not pluged in but are their. On the plastic panel by the tabs it says add det k and then omit det k. Where do the insulated wires get pouted into? And the whole reason for this was dryer needed to run at least two full cycles to dry the clothes. Pulled the dryer apart to clean and found this. Prior dryer got so hot that u couldn't even touch the top. Had it repairs and was told the thermostate was replaced. After that it seemed to never get hot enough. Found this - is it the problem or one of the problems?
  17. I purchased a $2000 Frigidaire French Door Gallery series, model LGUB2642LF, only to have 5 different service calls repairing nine different items in just 10 months to fix or replace parts of it that seemed of very poor quality. Furthermore the original complaint of an unsafe temperature discrepancy was never resolved in the entire 10 months. Of the nine different failures in ten months, three was failures of both ice-makers (repairman advised this is very common on Frigidaire/Electrolux products), one was a produce drawer that literally fell apart in our hands when opening (quality?), yet they say that is not even COVERED in the manufacturer's warranty. Another problem was the bottom seal repeatedly falling off the bottom drawer allowing hot outside air to enter (was told by repairman this also is a very COMMON issue). The last repair was to the bottom drawer rails and slides, they still have not been repaired. One repair was to replace a thermo-couple sensor that was not even bad that actually worsened the problem. One of my main gripes was that we lost about $600 food cost due to a deceptive design flaw that seems common to all Frigidaire Gallery series as well as Electrolux Icon. The front has a deceptive readout that shows 33 degrees, yet NOWHERE inside of the cooler area is it an FDA safe food storage temperature of 41 and below (My wife is ServeSafe Certified for Food handling Management and alerted me tot he problem). Food temperatures inside the upper cooler stays a very dangerous 45-55 degrees. Electrolux/Lowe's refuse to refund so I can get a better quality frig. They only want to exchange the frig for another one with the SAME design flaws. They also refuse to cover the food loss cost. Their "policies" they quoted me did not even comply with basic federal Lemon Laws and refund the total frig cost, taxes and food cost. It still sits after ten months not repaired (parts STILL on order) nor even close to the correct/safe temperature for food storage. ... so how do I improve the quality AFTER you are suckered into buying it? When the last repairman advised me there was another victim that bought a unit just like ours less than thirty miles away with the exact same problem, I felt I should become a consumer activist and advise everyone to beware!
  18. I have an Amana washer NAV2330AWW It had the dreaded leaking tub seal, I replaced that successfully with the tub seal/bearing assembly from your online store,yes, it was a PITA. Had to make my own bearing puller. I'm trying to put the whole thing out of my memory, but It no longer leaks, not a drop. Problem: The washer agitates fine but when it comes to the spin cycle the belt is slipping and getting hot. I can get the empty tub to spin, but when the tub is even partially full it spins, but too slowly to drain the water. When I manually add tension to the idler pulley it seems to help the belt catch. The transmission, motor, and pulley all turn freely. I then ordered a new belt, new idler pulley and a new tension spring and installed them, the belt is on correctly, I still have the same exact issue, spinning motor pulley, but belt is slipping badly, sometimes it will catch other times, not so much. I'm beyond frustrated, after replacing the hub seal and bearing after hours in labor and quite a bit of cash, I'm about to give up. I feel like I ALMOST have it! I did notice when I replaced the idler pulley the new one worked about the same as the old one. There doesn’t seem to be any real bearings anywhere, just a solid shaft that attaches to the arm and a metal sleeve inside the pulley, I did clean the shaft and put a drop of light oil on it. What's the deal? I'm about to give up and send back the parts, after all this work. Thanks.