Weil McLain 68 boiler (P-368V-wt) or RWB Becket "AFG" series oil burner
Posted 24 October 2006 - 07:29 AM
I have enjoyed reading this forum several times in the past and thank you for both answers and entertainment. So here's my first post:
My oil fueled boiler is supposed to heat both my tap water and my baseboard hot water. We had heat but no hot water. The repair man came, did a drain and fill and recommended that I clean the exterior of the copper coil which I did in the kitchen sink. We now have hot water again BUT we no longer have heat to the baseboards!
The same boiler heats the hot water so it fires and heats. I'm guessing some thermostat type problem? Maybe?
Thermostat on the wall is a Ritetemp 8022C after market programable thermostat. It has no mercury switch - seems all digital and techy in there.....
Anybody have a clue where I can start trouble shooting? Did I forget to turn a valve on that I'm not thinking of? pipes need bleeding? I just don't know.....HELP!
Posted 24 October 2006 - 10:48 AM
Posted 25 October 2006 - 02:55 AM
The system is 2 zones (2 thermostats one for 2nd floor, one for 1st floor). Both are set for temperatures higher than room temp and both are set to "heat"
The T displays time, programmed temp and current temp so I assume that is indicating that the system is on.
Not sure if it is getting juice. I'll have to buy a tester.
The boiler fires up every time we open the hot water tap and historically does the same whenever the room temp drops below programmed temp. It still runs to heat the hotwater on demand, but does not respond to room temp.
It has kicked on a couple of times when no water is running but shuts off almost immediately and long before the room temp raises.
I can post pics. Is there anything in particular that I should try to capture?
Posted 25 October 2006 - 03:43 AM
Posted 25 October 2006 - 06:27 AM
Question: When I removed the coil I pulled what I assume to be a temperature sensor out of the middle of the coil (looks like a metal stick on a wire feeding through a hole in the center base of the coil ) I did not (intentionally) disconnect any wiring but this sensor is the only thing remotely related to thermostat that I can recall having touched. If I mucked it up could it shut down the boiler for heating the baseboards but not affect tap water?
Meanwhile I have a call in to the service shop that was at the house but I have had zero response from them thus far.......
Thanks again, Mike
Posted 25 October 2006 - 03:18 PM
Posted 25 October 2006 - 04:06 PM
Posted 25 October 2006 - 07:31 PM
Posted 26 October 2006 - 03:02 AM
Since the steam incident we have lost hot water as well making the boiler completely non-functional.
Thanks for trying to help!
I don't believe the lines have EVER been bled in the 12 years running. I suppose that is something I should figure out how/where to do.....
Posted 02 November 2006 - 04:37 AM
That stopped the hot water from running cold but in the process he manaaged to do something that required re-sodering a pipe but that leak was not part of teh original problem.
So $300 all told but at least it works now...........
Posted 29 December 2006 - 04:46 AM
That can't be good. I don't see anything that looks like a repair or a crack from a quick visual of the exterior.
What's my next step? Call in someone for a second opinion? Start shopping for a new one? Investigate repair options? See how long it lasts as is?
Posted 29 December 2006 - 03:30 PM
Well a second opinion is always a good thing. Spending $65-$100 to C if you REALLY need to spend a few thousand is money well spent. If the tech is correct, then what has happened is the flame has actually burnt a hole thru the fire brick and thru the metal jacket of the boiler. I find it hard to believe that you didn't notice that.
Find out if its just the fire brick that he patched. If yes then there's no problem and your boilers ok. You'll want to replace the fire brick inside the combustion chamber. Its cheaper then replacing the boiler.
Hope this helps:)
Posted 20 February 2007 - 07:34 AM
Posted 20 February 2007 - 07:44 AM
I had the "crack" cemented for $60. It is actually where 2 panels are seperating not any actual damage to the cast iron, just a space opening where the 2 panels SHOULD fit together. The repair guy said that it was most likely caused by ignorant and over zealous cleaning by the prior company scrubbing away the fastener that should hold the panels together.
For $60 instead fo $4000 I'll give the cement a try.
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