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Kenmore Gas Dryer 110.72802100


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14 replies to this topic

#1 Kmore1

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Posted 12 June 2005 - 02:11 PM

I have a Kenmore Gas Dryer (Model #110.72802100) that all of a sudden stopped drying our clothes. I checked the screen and then removed the exhaust duct, which was clean. After the basics, I removed the back of the dryer and checked the thermal fuse at the exhuast, it turned out to be shot. I pulled the leads and by-passed the fuse, within 15 - 20 seconds, I had heat. Prior to finding your site, I ordered a fuse and have been waiting for four days. (and still do not have it) The Misses began to get upset with the piling up laundry, so I thought that I would tackle a few loads of bare essentials today, by-passing the thermal fuse, ensuring the screen stays clean and ensuing the vent is open. Whether set in the "Normal Dry" cycle or a specific "Timed" cycle, the glow starter would come on and the burner would ignite and run for approximately 1 - 2 minutes, then shut-off and never turn back on during the cycle. After the burner turned off but during the same cycle the heat selector could be changed from Medium to High and the glow starter would come back on, however the burner would not ignite. The only way that I found I could turn the burner back on was to stop the cycle, unplug the unit, wait a few minutes, plug it back in, re-set the selection dials and turn the dryer back on. This would then re-start the cycle described above of the glow starter coming on, then the burner igniting and then shutting off after 1 - 2 minutes. I am not thrilled about running like this and not sure if I am causing more harm than good but you tend to apprecaite clean clothes more when they are dirty and piling up.......One last thing, I have tried running a load with the exhaust duct disconnected, but the results were the same. Please advise!!!!!!!!!! Thanks.

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 June 2005 - 02:44 PM

Sounds like the valve coils are weak.  They're easy to replace and inexpensive, too:

http://www.repaircli...sp?R=154&N=3479


#3 Kmore1

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Posted 12 June 2005 - 03:04 PM

Thank you for the suggestion.
1.) Is this a possible reason for the thermal fuse to have blown?
2.) Are the coils sold as a set? And is it recommended that both are replaced?
3.) Do you get to the coils by removing the top of the dryer first and then the front panel?


#4 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 13 June 2005 - 02:36 AM

[user=1297]Kmore1[/user] wrote:

Thank you for the suggestion.
1.) Is this a possible reason for the thermal fuse to have blown?

No, bad coil should not have caused the thermal fuse to go.

2.) Are the coils sold as a set? And is it recommended that both are replaced?

Yes, click the link Samurai gave you and order from there. You will receive both coils, replace them both.

3.) Do you get to the coils by removing the top of the dryer first and then the front panel?

Don't remove the top, it's on hinges. Take the two screws in front of the lint filter out and use a putty knife to release the clips in front and top will hinge back. Then remove the two screws holding front on, lift straight up to remove front panel from lower clips. Then just two screws holding coils to gas valve. Real easy fix.
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#5 Lurker_BrokenArrow_*

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Posted 13 June 2005 - 03:35 PM

I don't know if you've fixed your dryer yet. If the coils wern't the issue, I would next check the radiant sensor. It's the little rectangular block w/two wire, located on the burner tube, 10 o'clock position. Hope this helps. Sincerely, BrokenArrow

#6 Kmore1

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Posted 15 June 2005 - 04:11 PM

I just received the new coils this evening. After pulling the old ones, I checked for continuity. There was no difference between the new and the old. Is this a valid check on coils, especially on the three pronged coil?

#7 Kmore1

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Posted 15 June 2005 - 04:12 PM

How do you check the radiant sensor?

#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 15 June 2005 - 04:35 PM

It opens in the presence of radiant heat.  With the view port on the sensor blocked, the sensor should read closed.  A common indication of a bad sensor is the meter jumps around all over the place when trying to test the continuity of the sensor. 

#9 Kmore1

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Posted 15 June 2005 - 04:50 PM

I checked continuity on the radiant heat sensor, the meter reading stayed constant.

I just received new coils this evening. After pulling the old ones, I checked for continuity. There was no difference between the new and the old. Is this a valid check on coils, especially on the three pronged coil?

If coils and radian heat sensor check out OK, what should I check for next?

#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 15 June 2005 - 05:03 PM

Continuity doesn't tell the whole story-- coils are electromechanical devices. Have you installed them yet? If not, do so.

#11 Kmore1

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Posted 15 June 2005 - 05:09 PM

I have already installed them, easy change out. I will go put everything back together and give it a try. I'll get back to you soon. Thanks.

#12 NooNoo

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Posted 15 June 2005 - 05:25 PM

Amazing!

I was having the same symptoms:
1) The gas burner lights the first time but not the second.
2) Shutting off for 5 minutes allows the burner to light again after restarting.

But I didn't have a blown thermal fuse.

Anyway, I replaced the valve coils as suggested, and now my dryer works like new!

Thank you, oh Exalted One!
- NooNoo

:D

#13 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 15 June 2005 - 05:40 PM

:rocker:

#14 Kmore1

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Posted 15 June 2005 - 05:56 PM

Everything went back together well. The burner came right on and I have been able to cycle it on and off successfully. The real test will come tomorrow when we begin to get caught up on mountains of laundry.
Thank you very much for all of your assistance.

#15 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 15 June 2005 - 08:52 PM

:rockband::samurai:




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