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Fuzion

Kenmore Dryer Start-up

28 posts in this topic

Hi, I have a Sears Kenmore Dryer Model #110.76912693.

The problem is that, When I hit the start button, I can hear the motor hum, but it seems like it doesnt have enough start torque to get going, so for the past 6 months, I would have to use a thin ruler to press down the door switch, hit the start button, manually rotate the drum to get it going, then shut the door and release the ruler. 

Can you tell me what may be the possible causes, and what I need to change/replace to get it working properly again.

Thanks!

Your help is appreciated!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

replace the drive motor.

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Is the motor eventually going to die out, thats why the start torque is low?

is it an easy task to replace the motor?

Thanks!

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I ought an received the motor, I disassembled up to the point of the blower.  What is an easy way to get to the motor.  I am having a really difficult time removing the blower with the left handed thread.  Is there an easy way to hold it to remove it? 

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Behold the technique of the Master:

wpdry106.jpg?dc=4675411645374921991

 

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Maw first post.  Don't think the king is scared of a little work.  Have similar prob if not the same.  Kenmore dryer model 110.66901691 serial MH 2219601 ... is about 6 or 7 years old.  I get same unharmonious buzzing and motor working its hump off trying to start up ... no sweat and all is copacetic for a bit but she dies without warning ... pulled all apart and vaccumed up Jurassic Dust Bunnies from Hades.  I then made sure that the vent to the outside world was clear.  Checked the thermal fuse (has continuity)  as suggested.  Did take out the drum and looked for starter capacitor but it looks like a part of the motor unit and parts breakdown does not designate it as a separate part.  Put it all back together again (for the practice ... grins) and same happens.  Havent checked the timer but will pull it apart again and check that tomorrow.  I figure I am in same water craft up same excretia canal for the cost of a new motor unit.  :yikes:

Many thanks from this lowly grasshopper for wisdom from sages. 

Will report as to whether life is breathed back into cantankerous, designed by illigitement offspring (with not enough forks in family tree) and often blasphemed dryer unit.

 

Elvis

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Thanks Elvis, let us know how this goes.....;)

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Bad news and things are strange in Graceland ... I went ahead and bought new motor unit and installed same.  Slight differences but same basic unit with same terminal block etc.  Had a bit of trouble getting blower fan off as mine has a cowling near where belt pulley ... no place to put a wrench on it ... good news is the blower fan has a 1/2 inch square that will take drive off my socket set ... idiot arrows for those of us directionally challenged by "wrong way" threads.  Put all of this mess back together and plug in to embarassment ... no sound ... no noise ... no kidding.  Pull back apart check term block to make sure self actually seated it correctly ... checked the belt break switch ... rechecked thermal fuse ... nothing ... dead solder ... have 239 between terms at wall ...  momentary switch to start works as it should (momentary closed - continuity) ... same with thermal fuse ... dunno ... acording to cheat sheet that came with motor (it breaks down each conn ... not using terminal block as on old motor / dryer unit) ... all is righteous but the wire colors do not gybe ... no big issue as there is no other way to plug in term block ... pics available on request. 

Priscilla says " ... someone help this idiot, he is getting on my last nerve!"

My thanks in advance, Elvis

post-2587-12904508574_thumb.jpg

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Hummmmm, check to make sure there is the 240 across the top of line 1 and 2 at the wall outlet and 120 volts from common to line 1 and 2.  Check door switch. Look for a loose wire somewhere?

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I'd re-check the belt switch wiring, that's the usual source of a no-go after motor replacement...I've had to bail a few people out on that one in the past:gimmebeer:

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at the wall .. on a three wire sys ... ground and two hots ... or in the ^^&*###%% dryer unit?  At the wall it is as you said ... 120 betwn ground and each hot ... 240 (really 236 but what ever it takes) between the two hots.  Dunno where to check ... and not wild about working on it live but willing to roll the dice ...

 

Many thanks, frustrated Elvis

post-2587-129045085743_thumb.jpg

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anything to checking except cont betwn to two wires off switch and lifting pulley until it engages?  That works and goes from open to closed as the pulley is lifted to engagement ... :(

 

Shoulda kept to sangin', Elvis

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Sounds like need to get you a volt stick and see where you are loosing the voltage in the dryer.   Sort of puzzled about the reference to different wire colors. Whirlpool has used the same color wires for each different thing since time began.  I would really rel-ook at the connections at the motor

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another thought ... humbly submitted.  Is there a way to safely test the motor that I bought under power ... I have the bottom access panel still off and the top section unattached but laying on top ... no contact between drum and top ... rechecked door switch ... but light comes on so that should have been fine (this tested out with meter with power disconnected). 

I can' t think of anything but a bad part ... opened the box myself (parts center right down road from my house) sears guys/gals sell the parts but won't admit to knowing anything about the application of said parts.  Was getting noise mentioned above and in Fuzion's post ... dunno ... think I am going to make a couple of Irish coffee's, very strong and ruminate (or not ... depending on number / strength of irish coffees) on same until tomorrow unless sages pull figurative rabbit out of metaphysical hat.

BTW have included the fan pic that I mentioned above it it helps anyone.

The bar is open (coffee is optional ... good irish whiskey is not).  Elvis

post-2587-129045085744_thumb.jpg

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Sears terminal block wire colors does not match up with colors specified on new motor assembly instruction (they quote all diff and discrete connections ... not a block) ... I just unplugged block from old motor assembly and swapped same ... plugged block into new motor unit ... then went back and noted that the instructions quoted ... can send pic of block and copy of said wiring instructions ... not sure if the quality would be good enough to post here due to the size restriction.

 

Elvis

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If the motor is new, don't bother testing it, you're just wasting time. I've never gotten a new motor that was bad outta the box.

Look elsewhere for the problem. You've already gotten a couple of excellent suggestions. Check for voltage going to the motor, as Pegi suggested. Check the belt switch, as Mad Mac suggested. If you need help making electrical measurements, read this:

http://fixitnow.com/2004/12/appliance-repair-revelation-making.htm

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Does the new motor and old motor switch have separate wires that plug in one at a time or do they both have or one have the plugable switch where you just plug the harness right onto the motor switch.

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And your new motor number is 279789....?

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Check on quality of motor ... rechecked both the momentary on and the door switch ... rechecked the belt switch ... all acting as they should ... dunno on what voltage is supposed to be at the terminal block but will plug in with the drum outta the way and see what I can get at the diff term conns ... many thanks and will post back in a couple of hours ... gotta run some errands for kids start school next week ....

 

Elvis sends

 

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both old and new have a terminal block (male) that accepts the block hanging off the wiring harness ...

 

Elvis

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NO! ... the replacement they gave me is a part number 8539556 ... the sears website gives this part number for the motor 279787 (3395654).  Looks like I gotta rip it back out and take back tomorrow to swap for right part.  Motor looks the same except for where winding attaches to term block ... old one has insulated lead from windings to the block ... new one just has the windings to a spade terminal attached directly to block...that shouldnt make a diff tho.

 

Elvis

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Don't go rushing back...it's the same motor. Put the number (8539556) into the link at the top of the page and you'll see what I mean.

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[user=2587]Elvis[/user] wrote:

NO! ... the replacement they gave me is a part number 8539556 ... the sears website gives this part number for the motor 279787 (3395654).

8539556 is RepairClinic's internal part number for the Whirlpool part number, 3395654. Same, exact, genuine Whirlpool part.

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darn ... thought that was too easy ... gonna try swapping the old motor back in to see if it acts like it used to with horrible buzzing and strenuous start ... it is a dead solder right now .. have checked the above suggested and all is good.  Many thanks on the part ref.  Meatheaded Elvis did not cross numbers on your site ... just trusted Sears.com (hanging head in shame). 

Elvis sends

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