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Guest Roger

Neptune MCB

12 posts in this topic

Blown Resistor. Valve is char-broiled.

What's the chance of repairing one of these?

Anyone got a good one in their truck they can read a R-value for me?

Any reliable rebuilders out there?

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

This fellow says he has a fix for it.  Never tried it myself, been meaning to; got several of these crispy critters kicking around.

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Most honorable SARM-sam, thank you for not beheading me as I stood at the door peering in.

I'm going to try that fix mentioned at the link you provided. All I have to loose is about $30 and a small peice of my pride if I have to cut an additional $250 check for a new MCB.

However, as replacing the Door Lock Wax Motor is required, I'd like to retrofit my MAH3000AWW to the new Solenoid Door Lock mechanism.

Do you know if that's possible, either officially or otherwise?

I will report back everything I've discovered at the end of this quest.

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Oh great Samurai Master, I've digested the available information and executed an integrated repair that's 100% successful and reliable. Unlike some suggested, I chose to replace Components with identically rated pieces.

If your Neptune Washer doesn't Spin in the Spin Cycle and the "Door Locked" indicator light is not illuminated, then you have a Shorted (perhaps intermittently) Door Latch Wax Motor and a blown Master Control Board (probably R11).

The Components on the MCB directly effected are R11 and Q6. Others mentioned as potentials are R43 and Q2.

First, install the new Wax Motor Kit, Maytag #12002535 ($17 retail).

Second, remove and replace the Components called out in this photo (about $2 retail).

R11 a 3.9K Ohm Carbon or Carbon Film Resistor

Q6 a Triac NTE5656

R43 a 18K Ohm Carbon or Carbon Film Resistor

Q2 a Transistor NTE288

Some of these may not have failed, but for a total parts bill of under $2, replace them all and consider it a belt-and-suspenders solution.

Lastly, if you're suspicious of an identical future failure you can cut and install an in-line Fuse on the Brown Wire (Plug 7, Pin 4), (Holder Kit and pack of 500mA Fast Blow Fuses, about $5). Consider this the belt-and-suspenders and stay home solution.

Note: this Board is not built to withstand all but the slightest heat soaking so the Solder Leads were trashed at R11 and required some creative scraping and soldering. And jumpers for good measure.

Samurai, if you email me your email I can forward a photo of the toasted MCB "with the lines and arrows and captions".

Roger

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Great report, Roger! Yes, please email me the photos you have and I'll post 'em. samurai AT fixitnow.com

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Are these Neptune still smelly?

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[user=7]The Seven[/user] wrote:

Are these Neptune still smelly?
Only if you open the door!:poison:

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i replaced r11 and its still smoking

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Hello, my smokey friend. Back in my days as a Mujaheddin warrior, I once hired a rancid Pakistani to set fire to Lord Vladimir's tie during the invasion of the Soviet infidels. It was only by the grace of Allah (and the enforced largess of the timid and compliant Ameedican taxpayer) that we, a motley and unruly crew of Afghani patriots, would successfully repel an heavily-armed, industrialized, northern European nation.

From this great historical lesson, I infer that you must locate the source of the smoking: the motor? the machine control board? that rancid Pakistani's bowels? Let us think on these things.

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[user=0]hason3[/user] wrote:

i replaced r11 and its still smoking

So, is that all you replaced r11?

If so, then that is your problem. You did not correct the problem that originally burned out r11.

You must read all the info and the links, (words in blue), in this discussion to correctly do this repair.

If r11 is burned the orginal problem that caused this part to fail has to be replaced first, (that would be the door latch "wax motor"). Also you must replace the q6 triac that controls the wax motor door lock circuit.

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