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The offending "kusottare" is a Whirlpool washer model LA9500XT that will not fill.


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3 replies to this topic

#1 rlcgrn1

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Posted 15 June 2005 - 09:54 PM

The washer will not fill. I tried the continuity of the inlet solenoids with my new multitester as per the recommendation from Fixitnow.com, resulting in no continuity. The ohmmeter read in the 800 ohm range. I thought this was way too high, so I bought a new one. For snits and giggles I measured its resistance, and it came out about the same (oh crap). I put it on anyway, then tried to find out if the harness was delivering voltage to the solenoids. Usually no, very rarely yes at about 72 volts, but nothing permanent. Regardless of how I fiddle with the cycle knob, I cannot get power regularly to the solenoid. Traced the wiring schematic back to the water level pressure switch - it too wasn't getting power when the knob was pulled "on". Well, that wires back to the control switch and knob assembly I think (cause I ain't so savvy on electrical schematics or doodads). I am definetly getting a constant 120 volts into the control switch. So I'm thinking its maybe a problem with the control switch. A new one is $89.50, and I just bought the washer and dryer used in supposedly "working" order for $70 from "Craig's List"! (lesson learned yet again - other people may be mistaken or much less honest than I am - ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS see the merchandise in action (the dryer works well at least)).
Can the control module be disassembled and repaired? What else am I perhaps overlooking? Should I just take my licks and find another used washer that I have WITNESSED in operation?
Thank you, Sensei, for your website, patience, and wisdom.

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 16 June 2005 - 02:51 AM

[user=1392]rlcgrn1[/user] wrote:

Usually no, very rarely yes at about 72 volts, but nothing permanent. Regardless of how I fiddle with the cycle knob, I cannot get power regularly to the solenoid. Traced the wiring schematic back to the water level pressure switch - it too wasn't getting power when the knob was pulled "on".

Be careful about checking the water level switch.  Make sure you're testing for incoming voltage on the common wire.  The wires are labelled V, T, and P; V (violet) is the common.  It should have 120v whenever the timer knob is puled out.


#3 rlcgrn1

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Posted 16 June 2005 - 10:42 AM

"Be careful about checking the water level switch. Make sure you're testing for incoming voltage on the common wire. The wires are labelled V, T, and P; V (violet) is the common. It should have 120v whenever the timer knob is puled out."

This I have checked. The V violet wire has no voltage when the knob is pulled out. I have checked the control terminal for continuity between the pole for the incoming black power wire, and the pole for the outgoing violet wire to the pressure switch when the when the knob is pulled "on", and I do not get continuity. I think maybe I will take the control unit apart and see if I can figure out why. Maybe(?) I can save buying a new control or washer.



#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 16 June 2005 - 10:59 AM

Double check your supply voltage at the outlet and make sure you're getting 120v to the timer.  If so, then replace the timer, CLICK HERE.




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