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the last appliance repairman

whirlpool/modular style icemaker not ejecting cubes

4 posts in this topic

I have a Kenmore refrigerator with a modular style icemaker.  The unit fills OK, freezes cubes OK, but will not rotate to eject the cubes.  The motor is trying to turn the gear but something is stuck.  When I heat the tray up with a hairdryer the cubes seem to release, the motor is able to turn and they are ejected.  I suspect there is a problem with the heating element.  I checked resistance on the element and it is at the required 70 ohms.  Is there a switch which controls this element and if so how do you troubleshoot it?

Any other ideas would be welcome.  Maybe the heater is OK but it is overfilling.  Should I try to decrease the amount of water in the tray?

Thanks,

Jeff

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The ice maker goes thu harvest when the thermostat in the head reaches about 16 degrees.  This starts the motor turning the rake and the mold heater comes on.  If the heater was not coming on the rake would rotate to be against the ice but would go no further.  You might see if the heater is on when this is happening bY CAREFULLY AND BREAFLY feeling the bottom of the ice maker to see if the heater is on.  This will blister your skin if you are not careful.  If the ice cubes are not over large to be jamming on the stripper, would not worry about the cube size.  You can jumper T to H to start a harvest cycle but the heater will not come on if the thermostat is not getting satisfied.  And if this same thermostat in the IM head is not satisfied the harvest cycle would not be starting.  See if the heater is on when it starts on its own.  If it is good sounds like a new ice maker is in order.

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these units have a thermal fuse in line with the heater which is located in the head,behind the module ass'y. there is an ongoing issue with the i/m's and there is available a "high tourque" motor/module available(sorry,i don't have the number handy).- i believe you can check continuity of the heat circuit if you measure between "H" and "N" on the head of the unit-this will verify thermostat continuity- also,if you initiate a harvest,you should be able to feel the element get warm once the rake stalls on top of the ice- but only touch the element briefly as it gets quite hot.

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Thanks for the replys, I will check thermostat continuity tonight when I get home.  When I checked heater element resistance earlier I used "H" and "L" and got a reading of 70 ohms.  Was I also reading the thermostat then or will checking through "H" and "N" just check the tstat?

What it is starting to sound like though, is that the heater element is not coming on.  Either due to a faulty tstat or a faulty element.  Is it cost effective to replace either one?

Thanks,

Jeff  

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