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Kenmore Dryer Model# 97282100


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47 replies to this topic

#1 jpaduchak

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Posted 16 June 2005 - 11:37 AM

My dryer is not heating up at all.  No burner glow what so ever.
I tested all sensors in the rear of the dryer for continuity and they check out.

I'm seeing no continuity at the coil, ignitor and flame sensor, when cool.  It seems strange
that all of these parts would fail.  I do have to say that I'm not totally sure that I am
testing them correctly though..  Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance,

John

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#2 Pegi

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Posted 16 June 2005 - 11:58 AM

Check the white plastic thermo-fuse on the vent housing, if it is dead it kills the power to the heat circut on a gas dryer.
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#3 jpaduchak

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Posted 16 June 2005 - 12:28 PM

I checked that already and it appears to be fine as were the other sensors and fuses nearby.
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#4 Pegi

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Posted 16 June 2005 - 12:34 PM

Does the ignitor come on at all?  Or is it dead.  If it is dead I would suspect the igntor if the t-fuse checks ok.   If it glows and goes back off suspect the coils or gas valve.  If it glows and stays on you have a bad flame switch,  If it is dead and the t-fuse is ok, just have to get your volt stick and see where you have lost the circut to the ignitor.
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#5 jpaduchak

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Posted 16 June 2005 - 01:11 PM

The ignitor does not come on at all.  & the tfuse does check ok
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#6 Pegi

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Posted 16 June 2005 - 01:22 PM

I would suspect the ignitor is broken, remove it and inspect it for a crack.
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#7 jpaduchak

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Posted 16 June 2005 - 02:45 PM

I took off the ignitor, and it looks ok.  I thought I saw a very small crack in the ceramic but I put some stress on it and it just looks like a mark on the ceramic.  I also looked at the thermal sensor and it looks ok.  The ignitor does not test for continuity though.  It's not infinite, but it is close
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#8 GLC

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Posted 16 June 2005 - 04:59 PM

[align=center]FIRST make sure the unit is not in the fluff mode.[/align]
[align=center]things you can try.[/align]
If you have a meter clip it onto the two wires that the removed ignitor would be hooked too. Make sure everything is clear and turn the unit on for just a few seconds. Watch your meter. If you see that meter jump to 110 volts then we know the ignitor is getting current and its bad.

The other thing to do is with a "cheater" cord. But unless you know what you are doing and actually work with electricity it is not something to try with internet instructions. I don't want you shocking yourself :)
Unless specifically asked otherwise, remember to test with the unit unplugged, or breaker off.
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#9 jpaduchak

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Posted 17 June 2005 - 05:15 AM

Thanks, I have power coming to the ignitor.  I'll order a new one and see if that does the trick.  I really appreciate the help
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#10 GLC

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Posted 17 June 2005 - 05:27 AM

[user=1403]jpaduchak[/user] wrote:

Thanks, I have power coming to the ignitor. I'll order a new one and see if that does the trick. I really appreciate the help

GREAT. Let us know how it goes.
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#11 Pegi

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Posted 17 June 2005 - 12:57 PM

Bet the new igniter fixes him right up.....;)
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#12 jpaduchak

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Posted 21 June 2005 - 10:53 AM

I put in the new ignitor today.  It's still not glowing and lighting.  I again double checked that it is getting power.  I'm totally at my wits end:shock::yikes:  I have no idea what to do next.  I tested everything with the drum removed, unless I'm not giving things enough time to heat up...Help me please...
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#13 Pegi

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Posted 21 June 2005 - 11:21 AM

When the dryer calls for heat and you hear the click that is one chamber of the gas valve opening. The ignitor starts to glow, and when the flame switch on the side of the cone cuts out the ignitor cuts out and the second chamber opens and the gas lights from the cooling down ignitor.  If you have power to the ignitor it should be glowing.  Are you waitig long enough for this to start glowing? 
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#14 jpaduchak

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Posted 21 June 2005 - 11:28 AM

I left it on for about 5 minutes.  I'm going to go try it right now and leave it on longer.

I haven't put the drum and stuff back in yet, so their isn't some sensor I should know about is there...

Thanks,

John

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#15 Pegi

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Posted 21 June 2005 - 11:53 AM

Timer, heat selector switch, motor switch, cycling thermostat, thermofuse, ignitor, flame switch, gas valve coils,  safety thermostat should be the circut.  The ignitor should start glowing 1-2 minutes after the dryer starts.  If you have voltage to the ignitor it should be glowing unless it is broken.
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#16 jpaduchak

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Posted 21 June 2005 - 11:55 AM

I made a discovery.  I have kind of a funky cheapo multimeter.  Most of the time I just use it to make sure the power is off and test batteries.  At first I was just checking to see that I had power to the ignitor at all, well then I checked my meter against the outlet to realize that I'm not getting enough power at the ignitor.  What could be causing that problem?  I figure I'm only getting 20-30V AC instead of 110V.
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#17 Pegi

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Posted 21 June 2005 - 11:57 AM

See my list of the heat circut above your last post.
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#18 jpaduchak

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Posted 21 June 2005 - 12:02 PM

If you were me, and knowing what you know where would you start?  Some of those Items I'm not sure how to test...
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#19 Pegi

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Posted 21 June 2005 - 12:12 PM

Start by checking if the motor switch is clogged with lint, 1-2 gives power to the heat circut when the motor gets up to speed.  the button on the switch might be clogged with lint or the clutch in the motor that activates this might be clogged.  Everything else is either good or broken, except for the coils on the gas valve, but if they were weak, the ignitor would glow but the gas valve would not open all of the time. Also examine all of the wires to be sure none are burnt or have bad connections.  check each wire to see if they are good from end to end. 
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#20 jpaduchak

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Posted 21 June 2005 - 01:30 PM

Where do I find this motor switch you are talking about here?
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