how to install my new adaptive defrost control board
Posted 12 March 2006 - 05:23 PM
Posted 09 June 2006 - 11:38 AM
Great topic and excellent information. I have a Maytag MSD2758DR (2001). I have same problem as described many times previously. Just lost $500.00 in steaks and king crab while on vacation. Going to try replacing C2 and Relay as I live close to a Fry's here in San Jose. I will post my results later.
Many thanks to Reg for schematic.
Posted 09 June 2006 - 10:07 PM
I have a side by side Maytag MSD2758DR (2001).
Posted 12 June 2006 - 01:38 PM
Posted 12 June 2006 - 02:36 PM
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Posted 12 June 2006 - 03:08 PM
Posted 21 June 2006 - 08:16 AM
Maytag Part Number: 12002104 in my jcd2389geb series 11. Is this an improved part? Will it work?
Posted 21 June 2006 - 09:26 AM
Posted 25 June 2006 - 05:37 PM
How involved is the process to solder a new C2 onto my existing ADC board? (I don't have the tools, etc, but am up for a challenge)
Should I take the old C2 off first?
Posted 27 June 2006 - 03:05 PM
After installing the new heater/DTT, did the same jumping trick to try to initiate a defrost cycle. First, did this when the freezer temp lever turned to OFF. This produced a click then another click after about a second, no defrost. I tried this again with the lever set to midway, so that the compressor & freezer fan motors were running. This produced one click, and the motors going off. The interesting thing here is that in this second case, I could not turn the units back on by moving the lever from OFF, I had to reset the Referig switch on my main (house) circuit breaker first. I tried this procedure both with removing the screwdriver from the contacts after hearing the click, and keeping it connected for some minutes afterward.
So, for all I know the system works just fine now, but I can't initiate the defrost and "see it for myself". Is there any way to be sure here? I do have an Ohm/Volt meter, but it has the "probe" ends and not the clamp type. Any measurements I can easily take here?
Posted 27 June 2006 - 03:30 PM
I am no expert, but was able to fix my problem with the information posted. I am quite sure you wasted your money on the heater element. The unit never went into defrost cycle after jumping L1 to test, because your freezer was not cold enough to trip your thermostat switch, which is connected to one of the incoming lines to your evaporator. That is the coil with fins on it in the back of the freezer. The thermostatic switch is just that, it is a normally open switch above a certain temperature and closes when under that temperature. It is inline with one of the power leads to the heater. Therefore, even if the ADC board is sending power to the heater, unless this switch is closed the heater will not heat up. I am not sure what the setpoint is, but I am sure it is near freezing. I suppose you could test by submersing the switch in ice water and then jump L1 to test. If anyone dissagrees with my assessment, please feel free to correct me. Good Luck!
Posted 27 June 2006 - 03:37 PM
If you are having a hard time getting the compressor to start running after you have everything connected back up properly, please read my posts carefully on this page and see if your compressor overload relay is bad. If your fridge is similar in age to mine, I would bet it is on its way out. Simply pull it straight off the compressor and shake it. If it rattles it is bad. Mine was visibly burnt as well. Hope this helps.
Posted 27 June 2006 - 03:50 PM
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Posted 27 June 2006 - 06:02 PM
Thanks for the advice about icing down the DTT. (I had thought that the jumpering somehow "bypassed" that link). After icing and jumpering, the defrost heater started sizzling!
If anyone wants to pay the shipping on a good heater/DTT and/or bad ADC board, they're yours.
Posted 14 September 2006 - 04:24 PM
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