Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

  • Announcements

    • Samurai Appliance Repair Man

      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

      Topics with the complete and accurate model number in the topic title will get priority attention. You can validate your model number by entering into the form on this page: http://www.repairclinic.com/?clearLs=true For more help on using Appliantology effectively, please see this page:  
Donald

Whirlpool Gold Catalyst Washer leak

11 posts in this topic

Whirlpool Gold Catalyst Three Speed Electronic Washer

Model GSX9885JQO

Serial CK2917178

The washer is leaking water.  I gather this may be from a loose tube around the top of the washer.  It is certainly more than just a few drops, perhaps a couple of cups or a little more, NOT gallons. Four or five passes with a squeeze mop gets most of the visible water.

I do not know how to open the top to check this. I do not want to make the problem worse.  The gray gasket around the top of the washer tube appears to be getting excessive moisture with resulting pink/red mold and rust.

Any help would be appreciated!  Thank you for your attention.

 

post-1426-129045085384_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Disassembly:

[align=left]NOTE:Empty the washer of all clothes and water. Drain hose should be emptied into a bucket or[/align]

[align=left]drain.[/align]

[align=left]1. Remove control knobs.[/align]

[align=left]2. Remove 4 screws at the rear of the washer top.[/align]

[align=left]3. Lift the rear edge of the top approximately six inches. Push down the strain relief for the[/align]

[align=left]power cord to dislodge from the top. It will remain on the top edge of the cabinet.[/align]

[align=left]4. Pull the bleach hose from the bleach nipple in the top.[/align]

[align=left]5. Lift the rear edge of the top higher and pull the pressure switch hose from the control pan[/align]

[align=left]nipple. Pull straight down to prevent breaking the nipple.[/align]

[align=left]6. Reach under the top and unplug the large connector block from the connector block in the[/align]

[align=left]top. Unplug the ground terminal connector next to the connector block.[/align]

[align=left]7. Lay the washer top upside down on a soft surface to protect the finish.[/align]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I appreciate the prompt reply! Sounds a little more complicated than another model I was reading about. It was a Calypso which had latches in the front which responded to a putty knife. I realized our Catalyst was different when it did not appear to have any such latches. :shock:

I am confused though.  :drowning: There are no knobs to remove. I'll attach a picture of the front and then do one of the back. The screw pattern also does not match exactly.

post-1426-129045085387_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is a picture of the back.  :huh:

 

Love the emoticons!

post-1426-12904508539_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have not seen this exact model yet myself but see if the two plastic end caps on the console pop off. ONe on the left and one on the right. If so there will be 1 phillips screw pointing downward behine each cap. Then tilt the console backwards on its own hinges. Then you will see two brass appearing clamps. Again one on the left and one on the right. Pop them off BUT watch how they go back in.

Then there should be a quick disconnect plug on the top of the cabinet that was under the console. Unplu that from the cabinet.

If this is all still correct then this cabinet will tilt a bit from the back towards you then slide the entire thing straight off towards you.

Let me know if I am right.

WHEN YOU TILT THAT CONSOLE BACK LOOK AND SEE IF THE CLEAR PLASTIC TUBING DID NOT COME OFF THE PRESURE SWITCH?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To remove this case you will have to remove several hoses, so make sure you make a list of where they go back on.  These washers from hell have a known problem with the hose that goes from the white venturi connected to the top of the case under the little slide plate and goes thru the splash guard for the bleach dispenser.  This hose starts splitting and leaks water thru the holes in the back of the washer.  Tilt the case forward enough to see if this little hose that might be 4 inches long is split and/or broken in half.  If it looks ok, tug on it to be sure.  If it is broken you have to replace the whole splash guard just to get his hose.  If this hose is not split, we will have to look further.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The end caps do not come off, or at least I don't think it would be a good idea.

There is a screw in the back of each one, at the bottom which screws into the washer.  Once these are unscrewed these alow the back panel to be flipped up and back. A wiggle here and a wiggle there and it is done.  Some wet instructions I took out to dry. as they would not do a tech or I any good they dissolved.

On washer left (like stage left) there is a plastic acess panel.  You lift that up and underneath you can see a few hoses and one open plastic pipe nozzle.  The hose that was supposed to be connected was underneath.  I may have to go out and get a hose clamp, if the spring clamp does not hold this time.  I reconnected it and tried to make it a tighter fit.  I used a little teflon tape around the "threads."  Now that I think about it, I wish I had measured the hose, but hopefully it will stay.

I then closed the acess panel and flipped the back control panel gently back down.  I did see the spring claps holding the cabinet in place, but luckily did not have to decide whether I wanted to tackle that.  I should have taken a picture, but was too busy to think of it.  The hoses were fitted to a set of nozzles something like a plus sign.  It was fastened down and back, I think under a hose. I start second guessing how many, and there were others elsewhere to confuse the memory. All the others seemed to be in place. I did try to reposition one clamp that looked a little loose and out of positon. 

In any event the one that was off, was the one on the right nozzle.   Thanks to everyone for the help.  I couldn't have done it without you!

:party:

 

[Next project in a while, perhaps the ice maker to My Kenmore Coldspot Model 106.8590311, since parts are sold here. That will be another story!  :bananadance: Actually I find I have more room using some ice trays and a Hefty Slide-Lock or Ziploc bag. As for the story, lets just say I came home one Friday night to a freezer partially full of solid ice, and the weekend went downhill from there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pegi, Thanks, I was typing while you were.  I may need that next, but I hope not!  ;) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome.  On the frig, would suspect the fill valve stuck open flooding the freezer compartment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites