Posted 26 January 2007 - 03:20 AM
But mine spins fast and in the same direction.
Single mom in NYC - hard to get a repairman to come here - one comes and looks for two seconds and says "It's the timer." I said no no, it progresses fine.
Then he goes back and says "It's the pulley". He fiddles with the pulley a bit and suddenly it agitates. As soon as he leaves, agitation ceases. He comes back 10 days later and says he doesn't know if he has to replace the pulley and the transmission together or if he can just put in a pulley by itself. I called Maytag and they said yes,
you can order a pulley by itself. Repair shop calls back and says they must order both and price will be upwards of $300. Whaddaya think? I'm not entirely unwilling to poke around in there and try to replace the part myself, nor am I unwilling to get the transmission replaced. But I CAN'T AFFORD TO THROW MONEY AROUND. Any thoughts? Especially "Trying to help", who helped very well with July posting.
THANK YOU THANK YOU - Mom
Posted 26 January 2007 - 09:48 AM
before I fell off the warranty. His company no longer works in Manhattan - no one wants to come to Manhattan - they fear tickets on the trucks. The VERY young repair man I referred to in the posting is a stranger to whom I've already paid $163 with no result. We could help his career here!
Guess I'm panicking looking at the kids' laundry piles and so wishing for advice.
Posted 26 January 2007 - 11:11 AM
If you are spinning fine, we know your lid switch, bearings and motor are good. We will need a better description of what the unit is doing when it is supposed to be agitating. When the unit gets to agitate, do you hear a loud hum and then it gets quite and the timer just keeps advancing, does the unit stay very quite and the timer advance and you never hear the motor, or does it sound like the motor is washing fine and it just isn't? I have never had a transmission pulley fail on the LAT style Maytag's. If it is your transmission seizing in agitate, some of these had a 10 year parts warranty on the trans (if that was the case you should have burnt your belts off, don't think thats it) . All you would have to pay is labor. It could be the timer, advancing is not all it does, let us know which scenario matches best and we can go from there.
Posted 26 January 2007 - 01:33 PM
What is happening here is this, the pulley is not returning to the "down position. The threads are gummy, the pulley is worn in the center and jamming, or the bearing is stuck and needs replaced or re-greased. I usually try cleaning everything up and re-greasing the bearing, shaft, and pulley. If the pulley is too loose or the bearing worn out replace them. It also has to be adjusted properly.
It could be the brake too, but they can be oiled and work just fine.
Pulley no. 22002429 about $25.00, Bearing no. 200835 about $13.00
Posted 26 January 2007 - 04:27 PM
Posted 26 January 2007 - 04:33 PM
Everything is normal except no agitating - it fills, then it spins its way through the wash cycle (can't let it do that because centrifugal force sends the water flying) with a normal spinning sound (without the sound of agitation), then it stops, drains, fills, etc. One difference is when regular spin cycle is over the tub takes longer to stop spinning, as if there were no brake.
"That guy" seems to have nailed it, as the young repairman was muttering something similar about the pulley not going to its position, and that's probably why it worked again briefly - he pulled it by hand.
Now how do I convince a repairman of all this? Why are you in Georgia and Nebraska - wanna see the big apple? Know any Master Appliantologists here?
I could attempt this myself with a picture or a diagram. Should I just purchase a new pulley and new bearing and ask the guy to come back and install it?
I don't really need a new transmission, right?
Posted 26 January 2007 - 04:47 PM
Posted 26 January 2007 - 05:06 PM
I have no desire to travel to the big city. I was born in a small town and have never really went anywhere (except on the internet). Here everybody knows who you are and what you do. Its a small town.
You just need a more experienced repairman that knows his older Maytags. I can't believe its already cost you $163. If I charged that much here, I'd be out of work in week.
Posted 26 January 2007 - 06:12 PM
had a guilty thought - is this my fault? I often push in the timer knob at the end of the wash cycle and turn it back to the beginning to wash the clothes a second time and even a third time. Should I not do this? Do I need to let each cycle play out normally without interruption from beginning to end because the pulley is climbing/lowering?
HAVE I BROUGHT THIS UPON MYSELF?
I may be a mom, "Trying to help", but I guarantee I do not look like your mom.
Posted 27 January 2007 - 03:37 AM
Posted 28 January 2007 - 07:00 AM
I'm not really a beer drinker, but I fondly remember Jenny Creams from my crazier field trip days to the mountains of upstate NY - you got that right. Can't even find it down here. Cheap and delightful.
Posted 13 March 2008 - 02:21 AM
Posted 21 January 2013 - 09:06 PM
I have a 25 year old SE1000 Maytag Washer + Dryer Stack.
Several parts have been replaced. Current Problem:
** Saturday: The little lady packed the washer with heavy stuff like two sets of flannel sheets, a small quilt type blanket, and other stuff making a very full load
** Washer will not agitate
** It will spin and drain
** With the front off and in the agitate cycle, I can see the pulley move a bit, but no more
** The belts will squeal after a minute or so
** The pulley is relatively easy to turn in the spin "direction"
** But much stiffer in the agitate direction
** I do not think the belts have been replaced in ten or more years
Saturday: I played with it for a an hour or so - back and forth to this website looking for fixit hints
and was able to get a couple of loads done with no issues
Monday: the little lady loaded it up and it will not agitate
Thanks in advance for your help.
Still Trying III
Experience is the Best Teacher
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