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Whirlpool duet dryer. Replaced bad motor. Now it won't turn.

5 posts in this topic

The motor in my Whrilpool (GEW9200LW0) dryer was bad. The dryer would turn over with it, but only about 30* of rotation before the load was too much for the motor.

I replaced the now obsolete PN:8528320 motor with it's replacement PN:279787 motor. Now it will not turn over at all. I'm not totally sure now where the two blue wires that go from the belt tensioner switch and from the little module (don't know the name) nearest the windings go.

The belt tensioner wire went to the upper most unused terminal before and the other to the bottom one I believe.

I see 120V at all wires but the white one on the motor's harness. The dryer will sense wet clothes and will count down the cycle's time limit and signal a complete cycle. It just will not turn and I assume as a result will not heat.

Any suggestions?

thanks

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

the "little module" that you speak of is the disconnect receptacle to the motor via the centrifugal switch- the switch under the idler should be secured to the bottom of cabinet and should be in the open position when the belt is on the drum. the wires to the motor are in a plastic disconnect which inserts firmly into the afformentioned "little module"- there shouldn't be any wondering what color goes where as they are designed to be dummy proof- if you are sure these are all connected properly-check to see if you didn't bend one of the wire tabs down while plugging in motor disconnect. otherwise follow other wires from motor to see if something is disconnected such as the door switch.

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It's plug and play with the harness. The thing I am referring to is adjacent to where the connector goes. It's circled in yellow. The connector uses up all but two terminals which are left for the other two blue wires.

I don't really think this is the problem though. I've tried it both ways to make sure.

post-1474-129045085398_thumb.jpg

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find a functional voltmeter and meausure between the blue and white wires going in to the plug at the end of the harness,put the timer on air dry,close the door and press the start button; 120 volts(or somewhere near) should be present. if it is,unplug dryer and measure across the overload for continuity. if open,overload has failed. if closed,motor is shot.  if no 120 v was present when start switch was pushed. you look somewhere else.

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Are you by any chance trying to test the dryer before putting it all back together?

If so and you don't have the drum and belt installed it won't run unless you lift the idler pulley away from the belt break switch, (the one that blue wire goes to).

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