Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

Whirlpool SF380LEKQ oven w/ DSI won't stay lit


  • Please log in to reply
4 replies to this topic

#1 jpeisker

jpeisker

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 14 posts

Posted 12 February 2007 - 09:54 AM

Whirlpool SF380LEKQ lower burner ignites fine and heats oven but when temp is reached and burner shuts off, it won't ignite again.  So you can heat up once and then coast down from there.  Somewhat of an intermittent problem, doesn't always fail, so hard to troubleshoot.

This unit has direct spark ignition (DSI), so no hot surface ignitor.  Ignitor spark is strong and in proper location near burner.  Burner is clean with no soot or buildup around orifices.

Broiler burner is virtually identical and works fine.

Gas valve solenoids read proper and equal resistance.

I'm not real familiar with DSI, so can't understand where the required flame sensor is located (guarantees gas ignition or shuts valve).  Nothing shows up in exploded parts diagram, just a single temp sensor for whole oven cavity.  This flame sensor could also be the culprit, but I'm in the dark as to what/where it is.

Owner noticed display blinking twice when the failure occurs, but no fault codes are displayed.  He's convinced that the control board is the problem, but it's the most expensive part in the oven and I'd like to make sure.

It will spark when trying to re-ignite, at least we can hear strong ticking.

Suspecting flame sensor (mystery part), control board (could explain most control problems), ignitor board (intermittent/unreliable), gas valve (close to flame, could be weak when heated).  Would like to pick the right component the first time so we don't shotgun three or four expensive parts to finally solve the problem.  If anybody has good ideas, I'd like to hear them.

Jim



Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 Pegi

Pegi

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,120 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Sweet Iced Tea

Posted 12 February 2007 - 09:58 AM

about three service pointers out about these systems, will see if I can find a couple for you...
Buy your parts here! Posted ImagePosted ImageRead More

If we helped you kick some appliance bootay and saved you some coin, consider helping' us keep the lights on ==> http://beer.fixitnow.com

Are you a Master Appliantologist? ==> http://appliantology...ppliantologist/

#3 Pegi

Pegi

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,120 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Sweet Iced Tea

Posted 12 February 2007 - 10:04 AM

Here is one service pointer...

Here is a second one.....

Number three....

Buy your parts here! Posted ImagePosted ImageRead More

If we helped you kick some appliance bootay and saved you some coin, consider helping' us keep the lights on ==> http://beer.fixitnow.com

Are you a Master Appliantologist? ==> http://appliantology...ppliantologist/

#4 jpeisker

jpeisker

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 14 posts

Posted 12 February 2007 - 10:52 AM

Thanks, Pegi!  These look like great ideas.  Already verified ignitor position vs burner, so I don't think that's the problem.  I'll try the redesigned burner/ignitor assembly and PCB grounding kit and give it a week or so to see how reliably it operates.  Will post an update one way or the other later....

Jim


#5 jpeisker

jpeisker

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 14 posts

Posted 22 February 2007 - 04:49 AM

After 10 days the new burner is working well, so I'm calling it a solved problem.  Apparently the original design was marginal.  The new one sparks up immediately.  It's apparent when you see the design change:

The old burner had only four gas ports near the igniter electrode and the igniter shield has only minimal air holes (more solid):

file:///f:dscn0951.jpg

 

The new burner has eight igniter gas ports and the shield has much more open area:

file:///f:dscn0948.jpg

So with more fuel and air supply, the burner lights more reliably.

Jim





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics