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Sears Freezer 253.9287412


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#1 ABreese

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 03:59 AM

The compressor in my 1998 Sears Kenmore Freezer, model 253.9287412 (Fridigaire), appears to be running almost constantly.  That is, at least 80% of the time.  When in defrost mode the compressor shuts off.  Temp is OK, running consistently from -5 to +5 degrees F.  Running current is 1.9 ~ 2.1 amps.  Although my clamp-on meter doesn't have a Peak Hold feature, I've noticed the starting current is 4 ~ 5 amps before settling back into the normal operating range. 

However, I've also noticed starting current as high as 11 amps, and after 2-3 seconds at that level I hear a 'click' on the compressor ... I assume the Overload protection is kicking in?

The evap coils are evenly frosted when operating so I don't suspect a coolant leak, but have no way to check that.  The compressor & drier were replaced approximately 1 year after purchase.

Your thoughts please, O Fermented One?  Am I looking at a slowly dying compressor?

Thanks!

Alan   :)



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#2 JDenyer232

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 04:47 AM

It's normal for starting amps to be higher than running amps, and your numbers seem to be ok, except for the 11 amps and then it going out on overload. Are you turning the compressor off and then right back on again? This will cause them to kick the overload out to protect the compressor. I always wait 5 minutes before attempting to restart a compressor, this allows time for the pressures to equalize. If the 11 amp draw and kicking out on overload happens sporadically without you messing around with it then I would suspect a faulty start relay, the attached link would be the part you need to order if the relay is in fact faulty http://www.repaircli...ccPartID=446903. As far as running for to long, is the condenser clean? Is the condenser fan running all the time when the compressor is on? Is there a high heat load, ie many door openings and closings, or putting hot food in the unit? Do the door gasket seal properly? Since you have an evenly frosted evap you can rule out a compressor that is not pumping efficiently, as an inefficient compressor will show up as a partially frosted evap.

#3 ABreese

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 05:48 AM

Thanks for the prompt feedback, it's appreciated.

Ya' caught me on that one ... I definitely was *not* waiting 5 minutes prior to restarting the compressor, and that is when I got the high current reading.  I'll try waiting 5-10 minutes before restarting and check the current again.

The condensor coil on this model is inside the cabinet wall, so there's no way to clean it, nor is there a condenser fan.  The door gasket is clean, soft and seals well.  The freezer is empty and I have been opening the door every 3-4 hours to check the temp.  I know it's working harder than normal to keep the all that empty air space cold, but didn't think it would cause it to run *that* much more.  When fully loaded (and I do mean FULL) the compressor only runs ... maybe 30-50% of the time? (SWAG).

FYI, this was all brought on the other day when it stopped cooling (temp alarm).  It was already late evening, and by the time we got teh food moved I didn't want to bother troubleshooting that night.  I know, I know ... I should have looked at the evap coil to see if it was iced up, but was simply too tired.

The following day there was quite a bit of water on the floor, so my suspicion of defrost problems was panning out.  However, when I got the high compressor current and the overload kicked in, I thought I might want to delay purchasing any parts until satisfied the compressor was good.

I replaced the defrost timer ~2 years ago due to a similar issue and all has been OK until now.  The t-start checks OK and the element was ~25 ohms (IIRC).  If the compressor is good, I'll probably just replace all 3 defrost components and continue to watch it closely for a while.

Thanks again for the input!

Alan  :)

 


#4 JDenyer232

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 06:05 AM

If the unit is empty then the compressor is gonna run more, it's all about thermal mass, when empty you don't have anything but air in their with little to no thermal mass, plus every 3-4 hours you open the door to check, load it up with 50 pounds of food or water if ya don't want to chance food spoilage and once all the food or water is at freezer temp the compressor won't run as much, the food or water acts like a buffer due to it's thermal mass.

#5 ABreese

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 06:49 AM

Thanks again, this is all good info.  All appears good now, so looks like it was merely a defrost issue.  I may order the start relay along with the defrost parts, just to be sure.

Alan  :) !!


#6 Poobah

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 12:45 PM

If you order the start relay make sure to go original parts.....don't let em sell ya a 3 n 1 (all in one)
This is the DAY that the LORD has made, REJOICE and be glad in it.....

#7 ABreese

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Posted 22 March 2007 - 01:40 AM

Not to worry ... I've always favored OEM parts.  That is, unless they proved less reliable than alternate suppliers.

Alan  :)





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