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GE TBX22PR - freezer no workie


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23 replies to this topic

#1 Wayne02

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Posted 23 June 2005 - 07:42 AM

My son left the door open on the freezer part of our GE refrigerator one night and most of the stuff partially melted. Since then the freezer will not freeze stuff anymore.

It feels like it is blowing cold air, but apparently not enough. There are water droplets frozen on the back wall.  I've cleared it out to improve air circulation but it does not seem to be helping.

This model has an ice maker and water and ice available in the door. It has stopped makeing ice as well of course. We used hear the valve open and let water into the maker and then close. This does not happen anymore, I assume because there is already water in the maker and it will not admit more until that water has become ice and is expelled into to bin.

At first I thought maybe the incoming water line was plugged or frozen shut at some point, but there is still water available at the door, just no ice.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Wayne


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#2 Pegi

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Posted 23 June 2005 - 11:44 AM

The ice maker will not work unless the freezer is colder than 10 degrees.  Sounds like you have some major ice up problems.  You are going to have to turn the box off and open the doors and let this box thaw, no telling what all is iced over at this point.
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#3 Wayne02

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Posted 23 June 2005 - 12:48 PM

Thanks Pegi,

How long will the meltdown usually take, 2-3 days? I take it I can't just shut down the freezer part and leave the refer part running? Probably time to pull the thing away from the wall and clean the backside anway I suppose.

Are there drip pans on this model, or do I just have towels and mops at the ready?

Thanks

Wayne


#4 Pegi

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Posted 23 June 2005 - 01:36 PM

Well, since the food compartment gets its cold air from the freezer, this will not be possible.  There is a defrost pan under the box, but it might overflow so have towels handy.  If you turn the box off and leave the doors open and perhaps set a fan in front of it to help circulate air, should be ok just overnight or so.
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#5 Wayne02

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Posted 27 June 2005 - 07:08 AM

Well, it's been 24hours unpluged and there is not water on the floor, and only very marginally more in the drip pan than when I first unplugged it.

I took the small access panel off that was across the bottom of the unit and cleaned out the area the best I could. It appears this frig has a solid non-removable panel over 75% of the back. I guess they don't want me in there eh?

What now? I guess I'll wash it out, plug it back in and see if it will work... what if it does not, what is the next step? If it makes any difference, that round black metal ball shaped container in the bottom of the unit was super hot when I went to unplug it, but maybe it is supposed to be...

Wayne


#6 Pegi

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Posted 27 June 2005 - 07:52 AM

The compressor should not be SUPER HOT, should be able to hold your hand on it.  Just wipe the box out, put the controls half way and allow the box to cool down, will take aprox. 24 hours, remembering this will go into defrost 3 times a day, the defrost cycle does not care if the box is hot or cold. Put some thermometers in both sides and watch the temperatures to see if the sealed system was damaged when it ran all of the time with the door open.  Also make sure the fan is running in the freezer and you have air flow to the food compartment.
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#7 Wayne02

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Posted 28 June 2005 - 10:44 AM

Ok, just got done cleaning out the box and re-started with controls at half throttle. Fan in the freezer is blowing cold air just as it was before I un-plugged the unit.

Found the seal blown out along the bottom of the refer door. The magnet was torn from the vynal and hanging on the floor at about one foot in length. I'm thinking that's not helping keep the unit sealed up any. :)  Also got some seal problems with the trap door on the ice despenser in the door of the freezer. It will not always snap shut when done dispensing ice, this of course creates a leak path for the cold air.

So, is the refer door seal a replaceable part? If so, do I order one right now and hope/assume that was the problem, or do I wait 24hrs and get a temp reading, then make the decision on the seal?

How hard is it to replace a door seal on this unit?

Remember, the orginal problem on this unit was the freezer not freezing stuff. The refer was doing OK. Could a blown seal on the bottom of the refer door cause the freezer not to freeze?

Edited to add: less than two hours after I plugged the unit in, it dumped a load of ice...
I'm thinking that's a good sign. I've got a thermo in the refer and in the freezer.

BTW, assuming I can replace the refer door seal and that fixes the problem, how do go about getting the smell out of this unit. We use the in-door ice a lot, and the ice always stinks. The box itself stinks, although not as bad since I've cleaned it out.

There is a vent/water holes accross the front of the freezer floor. It looks like it is to drain water as it is sloped downward from the back toward the front of the unit. Kinda smells like part of the stink is coming from behind this small drainage grate. I can't figure out how to take it off, it appears to be part of the floor of the unit...???

Thanks
Wayne




#8 Pegi

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Posted 28 June 2005 - 11:29 AM

The torn gasket and the dispenser door not closing will cause excessive moisture in the frig, causing frost build up in the evaperator and other areas of the frig., and needs to be addressed, however, will need to know the rest of your model number. The tag will be inside of the food compartment on the right or left wall.

[align=right] [/align]
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#9 Wayne02

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Posted 28 June 2005 - 12:08 PM

Ok, here we go:

GE Profile

Model no. TBX22PRBSRAA

Freezer is now at 0 degrees, but it appears the ice maker is not making ice after that first batch. I think that first batch was from water that was already in the maker... maybe I'm being impatient. ;)

Thanks

Wayne

 


#10 Pegi

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Posted 28 June 2005 - 12:15 PM

Will take awhile for the ice maker to get going up to speed, i would wait a few hours as it takes about 2 hours to harvest a batch of ice when the box is working properly.  Also be sure to moniter the temps in the food compartment to make sure you have air flow from the freezer.  And the box will go into defrost when it is ready so do not be alarmed if it goes dead except for the light now and then.
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#11 Wayne02

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Posted 28 June 2005 - 03:29 PM

My wife will be very happy tonight to have ice water again. I ordered a new door gasket for the refer, should be here Thursday or Friday.  Any tips on putting one of those in? Just push and pry it into the channel??

I need to order a new ice tray with auger thingy, as the one in there broke a year or so ago and I welded the cutter blade to the auger shaft to get by for awhile. As suspected it broke loose again, and I just welded it for the second time this afternoon. The first fix lasted about 5 months but I'll go ahead and order a replacement assembly.

At one time I had booked marked a website that had parts illustration drawings of the refer/freezer parts. Of course you can't just buy the auguer shaft and blade, you have to buy the whole ice tray assembly for a hundred some odd bucks if recall. I'll have to search for that site again as I can't find it in my favorites anymore.

Not sure what to do about the sticking ice chute flapper. It does not appear to be connected to anything, it's just spring action and is not closing after the ice goes down the chute. If I can figure out how to dissasemble it maybe I can tweak or replace the spring. I took the back plate off from the inside of the door but all that did was expose a big chunk of foam insulation covering the mechanisim.

Wayne


#12 Pegi

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Posted 28 June 2005 - 05:25 PM

All of the parts are available seperately....

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#13 Pegi

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Posted 28 June 2005 - 05:35 PM

Look at 63, 67, and 62??

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#14 Pegi

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Posted 28 June 2005 - 05:46 PM

On the door gasket pull the gasket badk on the inside, you should see screws and a metal strip.  You will remove the screws and strips and install the new gasket the same way.
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#15 yambag

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Posted 29 June 2005 - 12:42 PM

First thing that I would do, is fill up your sink with hot water.Place the gasket in the sink with the hot water and let it soak for 10min or so until the gasket is soft.When you install the new door gasket,always tighten the bottom then the hinge side first because the door may be twisted from the removel of the old gasket.With the bottom and the hinged side tightened close the door and see if the gasket will seal.If it does tighten the rest of the screws.If a big gap is noticed eather on the top or bottom sides of the gasket,you will have to tweak the door and tighten the top screws with pressure applied to the door to keep the adjustment you want.There will be some wrinkles on the gasket.To correct this problem is to get a blow dryer and heat gasket until wrinkels are gone.

 Dont worry,Its really easy to do even if you never did it before.  I hope this helps you some.


#16 Wayne02

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Posted 29 June 2005 - 04:30 PM

Thanks for all the help Pegi and yambag. I pressure washed all the shelves and such from the refer today and re-installed them all. The door gasket should be here tomorrow. Have not had a chance to troubleshoot the sticking ice flapper yet. In the meantime we are manually closing it after we get ice. The ice maker is full now which is good.

But just when things were going so good, tonight I find the in-door water has froze up. Using a mirror to look up in the in-door mechanisim it looks like it is frozen right at the tip of the tube that the water comes out of. This tube is located right under the defective ice flapper. The only thing I can figure is the freezer is pumping enough cold air past that flapper that it is freezing the water at the tip of the tube.

This does not make sense though because we have been extra careful to close that flapper since we restarted the unit. While the flapper will stay open after the ice dumps, when we close it manually it sure feels like it is seating fully on the gasket. With the flapper closed there does not seem to be much cold air leakage, so I can't understand how the water tube is freezing?

Wayne


#17 Wayne02

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Posted 01 July 2005 - 12:56 PM

Well, this door gasket is kicking my butt. I did the warm water thing and have the twists and wrinkles out of the new gasket.

Removed the old gasket by prying it out of the little metal track that is screwed to the door. There was no apparent way to peel back the gasket such that you could access the screws in the track. The gasket material is just too stiff and covers the screws completely.

Applicance shop said you just have to work the new gasket into the metal channels.... easier said then done. Guess I know why the appliance shop charges $200 to replace gaskets eh? Thought about removing the door as the bottom is going to be difficult to access with the floor in the way.  No sense in doing that yet though, as I can't even get the thing started in the track at the top of the door....

I wonder about using a heat gun on the backside of the gasket to soften the hard ridge part that needs to be instereted in the metal track...

or a big hammer

or more beer

 


#18 Wayne02

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Posted 01 July 2005 - 04:23 PM

Ok, the heat gun did the trick. A little warmth makes a huge difference in pliability.

The seal seems to seal well all the way around except for the lower left corner (standing facing the refer) Lower left corner on the non-hinged side. About 10" on the side and 10" on the bottom where they come together in the lower left corner does not look like the magnetic part is contacting the refer frame. I tried to tweak the door a bit but it is pretty stout.

Wayne


#19 Lurker_Terri_*

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Posted 30 December 2005 - 01:06 AM

How long can the food in my freezer stay frozen if unplugged?

#20 Pegi

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Posted 30 December 2005 - 06:47 AM

Terry, if you do not open the doors should be good for 24 hours, perhaps more...as long as there are ice crystals in the food they can be refrozen..
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