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Kenmore 70 Series #110.22712100 won't agitate


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29 replies to this topic

#21 Jim Coates

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Posted 24 June 2005 - 02:00 PM

I'm not sure I understand.

I thought Samurai wanted me to check the harness for voltage at the run and start wires to make sure the motor was getting the correct votlage?

Jim

 


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#22 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 24 June 2005 - 02:18 PM

Light sticks are useful for a quick yea or nay, but they don't tell you if you're dealing with junk voltage since they will light up in the presence of 104 vac (junk voltage).  Use a meter.  Also, use the wiring diagram for your washer, not a generic diagram found on the web.  Can I say that any more clearly? 

Finally, it's obvious from your comments that you didn't read the linked article I posted in my previous reply.  I know, I know:  I'm always telling people to read stuff.  But the harsh reality is that the internet is a reading medium; this ain't TV and we ain't a bunch o' talking heads here to tell you what to do and think.  We can point you in the right direction but, like the horse at the proverbial trough, you gotta do the thinkin' (or drinkin', as befits the metaphor).  The linked article illustrates the troubleshooting process for exactly this kind of situation.  Drink. 


#23 Jim Coates

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Posted 24 June 2005 - 02:22 PM

Samurai,

The attachment that I sent to you was an actual scan of my wiring diagram pulled from right inside the washing machine (it was stuck up in the console area).

I did read your article.. even sat there with it in my lap as I was at the machine.

I'm also using a multimeter for my testing.

Your article says "With the harness still disconnected, I used the schematic diagram for the washer to locate the pins on the wiring harness corresponding to the motor's start and run windings."... however... I'm not sure which wires those are in my system, which is why I attached the schematic and why I asked the question.

Jim

 


#24 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 24 June 2005 - 02:36 PM

Here's what you'll do:

Set the timer to regular wash

Measure the voltage for the Start winding at the Yellow wire wrt neutral.

Measure voltage at the High winding at the Blue wire wrt neutral.

ALSO, measure the voltage at the Medium winding at the W-V wire wrt neutral.

AND measure the voltage at the Low winding at the W-OR wire wrt neutral.

wrt neutral means that one of your probes will be attached to a known neutral point on your washer.  If your house is wired correctly, this point will have nearly the same electrical potential as chassis ground.

If you see more than one of the run windings energized with 120vac (nominal) then you have a bad wash action switch.



#25 Jim Coates

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Posted 24 June 2005 - 03:10 PM

Samurai,

Thank you.

This is what I discovered.

With the dial set to regular wash at the point where it should agitate, the voltages read as follows:

Start = 34 VAC  High = 34 VAC  Medium = 28 VAC  Low = 13 VAC

With the dial set to regular was at the point where it should spin, the voltages read as follows:

Start  = 113 VAC  High = 32 VAC  Medium = 16 VAC  Low = 15 VAC

This makes sense, because the motor works in spin mode (gets the 113 VAC start)...  but in agitate all windings show the same voltage.

Would this indicate a bad was action switch to you as you mentioned and are the spin voltages within what you'd expect?  Nothing read 120 VAC.

Thanks again for your patience... I'm just a simple musician (which is why I own all the tools) trying to get his poor washer back up and running before we have to leave on a family trip.

Jim

 


#26 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 24 June 2005 - 04:10 PM

Now we're getting somewhere! 

Jump over to the tan wire on the pressure switch and measure the voltage there wrt neutral and with the washer in agitate, tub filled enough that washer should be agitating.


#27 Jim Coates

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Posted 24 June 2005 - 05:03 PM

Samurai,

With the tan wire plugged INTO the pressure switch, I managed to measure it... it read 112 VAC with the washer in agitate.


Thanks!

Jim

 




#28 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 25 June 2005 - 03:11 AM

Ok, good.  Same conditions but measure the voltage on the orange (#6) and blue (#5) wires on the timer wrt neutral.    Then measure the voltage at the BU-O and O-BU wires on the speed switch wrt neutral. 

If you've made all measurements correctly to this point, this set of measurements will reveal the problem. 


#29 Jim Coates

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Posted 25 June 2005 - 07:46 AM

Samurai,

BU-O measured 106

O-BU measured 116...  and when I put my probe here, all of the sudden the agitate started working again.

Removed the probe and it STILL works.... hmmm.

I measured them at the agitation speed controller.

The connections were not loose, but I guess it would take much would it.

The other wires measured as follows:

There isn't a blue #5... pin slot #5 is marked BK-W on the timer control, but its empty.

orange #6 measured 116

Thanks again for the help...  I TRULY appreciate it.

Given that it started working with the probing of the agitation speed controller, what would your diagnosis be?  (at least now it looks like I can reassemble the whole thing, since I can get to the speed controller without taking the case apart next time).

Jim

 


#30 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 25 June 2005 - 09:46 AM

The 106 volts you measured at BU-O is junk voltage.  This is coming from the timer, pin 19.  Check the integrity of the connections.  You could even check the continuity of the BU-O wire from the speed switch to the timer at pin 19. 




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