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GE Ice Maker Leaking into Storage Bin


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8 replies to this topic

#1 hoosier123

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Posted 24 June 2005 - 05:38 AM

HI,

I have GE TFH22PRSABB Refridgerator.  I think the icemaker is IM6 but not sure (The GE model number is WR30X0289).  During fill up stage, it leaks from the rear of the mold & heater assembly.  It is not overfilling, but it leaks as it is filling up.  It is level.  Any advise/suggestions appreciated.  I consider myself a do-it-yourselfer.  Thanks!


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#2 Pegi

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Posted 24 June 2005 - 09:16 AM

Would suspect the ice mold is split and the ice maker would have to be replaced,  we have seen several of these that leaked up around the head area, assuming the ice maker is level.
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#3 GLC

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Posted 24 June 2005 - 09:47 AM

You could remove the ice maker from the freezer and sit it on your counter and make it level. Put a little water in the mold and watch it drip / leak.
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#4 Pegi

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Posted 24 June 2005 - 10:52 AM

Drip, drip, drip, drip, drip.  ;)... turn it over and you will see the trail of white stuff where it has been leaking...
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#5 hoosier123

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Posted 04 July 2005 - 05:34 AM

I pulled the icemaker out.  No leaks from the tray.  I installed it again and turned the fill valve adjustment 2 turns lower.  Less water fills the tray and everything seems OK.  I have had this for 5 years, so this may not have solved the problem, but just solved it temporarily.  The valve still might be the problem.  Thanks for responses!

#6 Pegi

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Posted 04 July 2005 - 10:54 AM


[align=left]N.D. 366-27[/align]

[align=left]GE Appliances[/align]

[align=left]General Electric Company[/align]
[align=left]Appliance Park, Louisville, KY 40225[/align]

[align=left]Service Bulletin[/align]

[align=left]REFRIGERATORS REF 22-02[/align]
[align=left]ELECTRONIC ICEMAKER[/align]
[align=left]LEAKING ISSUES[/align]

[align=left]JUNE 2002[/align]

[align=left]Icicle Formation[/align]

[align=left]This occurs when water leaks from the icemaker thermistor[/align]
[align=left]housing due to capillary action or wicking of water. You will[/align]
[align=left]see icicles of various sizes forming between the mold body[/align]
[align=left]and control housing as shown in Figure 3. Ice may also form[/align]
[align=left]inside the control housing but this will not be visible unless[/align]
[align=left]the cover is removed.[/align]
[align=left]Other issues related to leakage include:[/align]
[align=left]• Restricted movement of the feeler arm causing “SLOW” or[/align]
[align=left]“NO” ice production.[/align]
[align=left]• Failure of the feeler arm. Restriction of feeler arm movement[/align]
[align=left]will break the internal crank mechanism of the[/align]
[align=left]icemaker. This can cause “EJECTOR STALLED”, “LED[/align]
[align=left]FLASHING” or “WILL NOT FILL”.[/align]
[align=left]Please note that the service diagnostics can not be run when[/align]
[align=left]the internal crank is broken.[/align]
[align=left]New icemakers will be available the end of July 2002. A[/align]
[align=left]gasket has been added to the thermistor housing to allow[/align]
[align=left]a water tight seal.[/align]

[align=left]CODE THIS CALL AS: LEAKING AT ICEMAKER HOUSING[/align]

[align=left]Leaking on Feeler Arm[/align]

[align=left](Side-by-Side models with rear-mounted electronic icemaker)[/align]

[align=left]Leaking at Housing[/align]

[align=left](All Refrigerator models equipped with electronic icemaker)[/align]

[align=left]Figure 3[/align]

[align=left]IMPORTANT:
Make sure the icemaker is “LEVEL” in all[/align]
[align=left]directions (front to back and side to side). It may be necessary[/align]
[align=left]to shim the icemaker support arms to raise the front of the[/align]
[align=left]icemaker to obtain level (front to back).[/align]

[align=left]CODE THIS CALL AS: FILL CUP ISSUE[/align]

[align=left]This occurs when water enters the icemaker mold too quickly[/align]
[align=left]and splashes over the front of the icemaker. The leaking water[/align]
[align=left]follows one or any combination of the three leak paths shown[/align]
[align=left]in Figure 1. You will see puddles of ice on the feeler arm and/or[/align]
[align=left]icicles flowing over the front of the icemaker.[/align]
[align=left]Technician should replace the old fill cup with a new fill cup[/align]

[align=left]Part #WR29X10058
. A water diverter has been added to help[/align]
[align=left]slow the flow of water (see Figure 2).
This part does not fit[/align]
[align=left]Energy Star models (GSH or ESS models).[/align]

[align=left]Water Diverter[/align]
[align=left]Added to Slow[/align]
[align=left]Water Flow[/align]

[align=left]New Fill Cup[/align]

[align=left]Figure 2[/align]

[align=left]Fill Cup[/align]
[align=left]Fill Tube[/align]

[align=left]Figure 1
Potential Leak Paths[/align]
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#7 hoosier123

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Posted 07 July 2005 - 07:29 AM

THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!!!!

I called GE and they said they wanted $90 for the mold/heat assembly and fill cup + $10 to ship.  I started telling customer service about the above Service Builletin and that a design/manufacturing defect must be the problem.  The rep finally agreed and charged nothing for the parts and shipping.  All you guys and this forum ROCK!


#8 Pegi

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Posted 07 July 2005 - 09:25 AM

Cool move!!  This stuff that G.E. puts out there make us cringe. Glad this worked out for you...;)
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#9 KenB

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Posted 11 July 2005 - 08:25 PM

Have a slightly different problem with my GE IceMaker #WR30X0289.  Ice Maker has recently started to overfill.  Removed it to check operation, etc.  Initially checked to make sure level, etc.  Installation is OK, and it has been working fine for years (until recently).

Don't see any obvious problems internally, but assume there must be a microswitch malfunctioning, etc.  Ice maker seems to want to go thru the filling cycle 2-4 times before water finally shuts off.  Puts quite a bit of extra water into unit, which obviously leaks out all over.

From what I remember (before I disconnected/removed unit).  Think water is supposed to fill twice and ice maker motor goes thru 2 full rotations.  Ice maker now goes thru 4+ full rotations before it finally stops.  Feeler arm seems to be functioning correctly and is not jammed.  Any ideas?  Would rather repair than have to purchase an entire new unit. 

Have you ever heard of this problem before?  Any suggestions on what to check/test/replace?  Or, should I break down and get a new (updated/improved?) unit?  Comments?  Thanks in advance for your assistance.

Ken 





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