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Washer won't spin


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20 replies to this topic

#1 mej284

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 02:00 AM

I have a Whirlpool Stylemaster Topload Washer.  I believe the model no is #4214289.

The problem is Wash cycle and agitation works fine when it removes the water to go into the rinse cycle it works fine.  I here the pump kick in and the tub slowly spins as it gets rid of more water tub spins faster.  But when the washer gets to the final spin cycle after the last rinse cycle.  The washer starts to add a little water, (Iassume this is done to balance the load), I see the agaitor turn about a quarter turn and then I see the tub try to turn but doesn't and here them motor make a louder hum as if it is binding.  Then the overload trips and I have to wait for the overload to reset.

I can then place the timer anywhere and the washer will work on any portion of the cycle but the final spin cycle.  Any Ideas?


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#2 Poobah

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 03:20 AM

your model # should have some letters in front of the #'s, sounds as if you have a binding issue check that model and get back to us you will more than likely have to do some dis-assembly to check it out further but we'll cross that bridge later
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#3 mej284

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 03:45 AM

I will look when I get off work.  That was the number I got from the bottom of the lid and I didn't see anything on the side or the back of the machine.  Also after the number it had Rev. A


#4 hvacdrd

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 07:18 AM

Here is some help on locating the model tag - Like Poobah stated the Whirlpool product starts with letters. You should have a tag located somewhere under the top lid opening

Just to verify, the washer spins after the wash cycle but not in final spin?


#5 mej284

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 07:22 AM

That is correct, I will look again when I get off work



#6 mej284

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 08:53 AM

I have looked everywhere and there is no number preceded by a letter anywhere on the washer.  As I said Whirlpool Stylemaster- Heavy Duty Super Capacity plus- Clean Touch 8 cycle/2 speed.

Personal Info- I am a electronic Tech and a electrician.  Unfortunately washer aren't my expertise.  I say this to inform anyone that can help me that I do have some electrical knowledge in case the conversation turns technical.

 

Different observations:  Fill  is never a problem, the first agitate also no problem.  First removing of the water with the pump no problem.  First spin  in wash cycle didn't work.  If I moved the somewhere else on the cycle it seemed to have problems after that with the agitation or spin.

I got underneath and notice a starter cap on the motor.  If that is going bad could that cause this problem.  I do see something similar to this on my well outside when the caps start to go bad.


I just noticed that the washer a agitate hi and agitate low and and it appears the drain  and the spin are the same.  It doesn't seem to work on the Hi speed.  If I'm correct is this the motor or the cap?


#7 hvacdrd

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 03:07 PM

Try this, if the tag isn't here then we will move on. If no luck get the label/part number from the wiring diagram

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#8 mej284

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 03:19 PM

As I said the tag has been removed.  I found the scats, but I can only see half of it.  On back plate.

#9 hvacdrd

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 03:30 PM

is there a number on the wiring diagram? For example - from a model LA6800XTW0  label number on wiring diagram is LIT3351745

#10 mej284

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 03:36 PM

There is a part number 3948831.  I can only see the top of the drawing it goes down below the top cover.  I don't know how to get it off.

#11 hvacdrd

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 03:49 PM

OK - your model number is LSC8244EZ0 - and here is your wiring diagram

#12 mej284

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 03:57 PM

That is it, now any ideas?

#13 Tronicsmasta

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Posted 30 May 2007 - 12:36 PM

does it spin just before going into the rinse? Sounds like your gearcase is binding... the only reason i thnk that is because the overload protector is popping.

 

It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).

#14 hvacdrd

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Posted 30 May 2007 - 02:00 PM

The most common issue with this style washer is the molex connector at the motor. Remove the connector and look for any discolored spots. If so do your best to pinch down the connectors.

To isolate the problem from a binding issue pull the motor from the gearcase and see if the problem continues. If so move to the next step.

Time to move to the timer circuit. Place the washer in whatever cycle it fails and make the following checks at the motor. Place one lead on White (nuetral) and leave it there. Then check for 120VAC at Blue & then at Yellow(if in agitate) or Red (if in spin). As a final check for the start winding verify 120VAC from Yellow to Red


#15 Tronicsmasta

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Posted 30 May 2007 - 02:11 PM

do as [user=11934]hvacdrd[/user] suggests and get back to us...

usually when the motor connector is loose i find it pulsates during agitator or spin or both etc... ive never run accross  a washer that was overheating due to a loose connector but there is much to be learned.

It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).

#16 Keinokuorma

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Posted 30 May 2007 - 09:30 PM

That could be caused by the motor starting over and over with the start winding powered, if the speed drops enough.

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#17 Tronicsmasta

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Posted 31 May 2007 - 01:14 PM

[user=10234]Keinokuorma[/user] wrote:

That could be caused by the motor starting over and over with the start winding powered, if the speed drops enough.

that symptom i described mostly happens with the white/orange or Violet wire because loose some where along the way... basically the start winding kicks on and then disengages with hopes that the main run winding will carry it... when the main winding does not have voltage the speed drops and the start winding kicks back in again :) I guess thats what you are saying isnt it lmao..
It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).

#18 mej284

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Posted 31 May 2007 - 04:17 PM

The problem has been found, it turns out the coupling was partially separated and rubbing against the motor.  Also the bearings in the motor are going out.  Thank you for all your help.

#19 Keinokuorma

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Posted 31 May 2007 - 07:56 PM

[user=23009]Tronicsmasta[/user] wrote:

I guess thats what you are saying isnt it lmao..

Guess so. Either only start or run winding powers up, will not start properly, and overheats. Well, it wasn't the problem this time.

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#20 Tronicsmasta

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Posted 31 May 2007 - 11:31 PM

ive never seen a coupling do as he described above... wtf?
It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).




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