20 replies to this topic

[williambarty]

Having problems with my Series 80 wasging machine.

Water fills up fine, but agitation, spinning, and draining, the motor runs for a little while (maybe 30 secs), then shuts off for a while, repeat.  Any ideas?

thanks for any help

Billy B.

[williambarty]

Update...  It drains and spins fine without shutting off (I forgot to have the lid down).  It just has problems agitation.  Could this just be the plastic mechanical connector to the motor causing this?

thanks.

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Sounds like a classic case of motor overheating and kicking out on thermal overload.  Verify with your meter-- if the motor is still getting power when it's shut down, then it's new motor time.

[williambarty]

Just out of curiosity, does the agiatate cycle take more torque than spinning the drum or draining the unit?   thanks for the info.  Also, what two leads do I check to see if voltage is going to the motor?

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

The wiring diagram is pasted to the inside back panel-- you'll need to open the control console and remove the cabinet to see it all.   It tells all. 

Meter help here.

[williambarty]

Thanks for your help.  Should I replace the motor capacitor at the same time?

[Pegi]

Also check the wiring harness expecially where it plugs onto the motor, known problems with bad connections causing problems like this,  not giving enough voltage to the motor...causing it to overheat and cut off and on..

[Pegi]

 Should I replace the motor capacitor at the same time?

If the capacitor were bad seems like you would be having the same problems in spin....but if you do replace the motor I would replace it with a new capacitor....just be sure you are getting the same voltage to the start windings in agitate as you are in spin...if not, motor is not the problem.  Sounds like you are not getting proper voltage in agitate, trace back from the motor to the timer for proper voltage as the samurai suggested..

[williambarty]

Update.

Reopened unit.  Ohm'ed motor, all checks out good.

Coupler was somewhat messed up, replaced that too.  When motor stops, verified that 125V was going to motor from the timer.

Tested new motor, got the same problem.  Agitates for about 15 seconds, then goes offline (thermal switch).  Could it be something in the transmission?  It seemed tight when I took the motor off the first time and turned it ccw by hand.  Now, after pulling off the new motor (to take it back to the store) turning it ccw by hand seems fine and turns the agitator. 


Update again...  Took the pump off it seems to take a lot of effort to turn the pump using my finger.  Weird thing is that it drains the water fine. 
Any ideas?  Thanks.

Billy

[williambarty]

Ok.  Determined that the pump didn't need replacing.  I didn't have a reference until I bought the new one.  It had roughly the same resistance to turning as my old one..   Splash $48.00..  

But, a new diagnostic finding.....

Agitate oddly works ok and doesn't stop motor when set to FAST.  When spin is also set to FAST, it doesn't spin or drain water. 


"Hang Dry" mode quasi works.   Doesn't drain water though (agiatate is FAST and spin is SLOW). 


What is the cause of this?  Do I need a new tranny?  Weird problem.  Any tips?  Good thing this unit is so easy to work on.  Gotta really give "props" to the designers of the Whirlpool/Kenmore direct drive unit.

thanks.

Barty

[Pegi]

Do you have that speed control switch in your console?  If so known problems with these sending voltage to more than one winding in the motor causing it to cut on and off...replacing it would solve your problems....if it was a problem with the motor you would be having this problem in agitate and spin I imagine...it working on high speed narrowes it down to that switch...if you do not have a speed control switch in your model you could have bad contacts inside of the timer....side note, the washer will be dead for drain/spin with the lid open or the case is off and the lid switch is not by-passed.

[williambarty]

yes.  I've got a 4 way speed control switch.  (gentle - slow/slow, regular-slow/fast, heavy duty-fast/fast, hang dry-fast/slow).  I pulled the transmission assembly out now.  Turning it by hand seems ok. 

Is there any other mechanical part that hooks to the transmission that could be causing this?  Perhaps the brake?  As I said above, after the motor stops, I test at the motor wiring harness for voltage.  Orange/White shows 125V, Blue/White shows nothing during spin.  If switch was faulty, wouldn't I get voltage on both?

[Pegi]

Orange/White shows 125V, Blue/White shows nothing during spin.

I understand the problem is in agaitate not spin???

[Pegi]

You can set the motor on the floor to see if it has this problem off of the tranny, just want to hold it in place with your foot, you will need to run the washer with the case off during an agitate cycle however with water in the tub. Will be a good way to check the voltage also.

[williambarty]

Pegi,

Thanks for the advice.  I shorted the tan and violet wires on the water level switch so it didn't fill it up with water.  PRO tip. take a small piece of 120V 12 AWG wire, stip both ends and push it in to the tan wire and the violet wire.  The machine will then go into agiate mode without filling the tub.  The is on a 110.92584100 series, but I bet this wiring diagram is pretty much the same on any Kenmore direct drive unit that is 12 years old or so.

Anyway, back to the problem.  Yes, to my surprise the motor shutdown even though it was not connected at all to the tranmission or pump.  So it is definately electrical.  Can you tell me which part or switch is causing this?  Thanks. 

-Barty

[Pegi]

Known problems with the speed selector switch causing this problem, that is what I would replace...buy it thru this site and it can be returned if it does not solve the problem...let us know either way please...

[williambarty]

Ok, not the 4 way speed select switch either.  I pulled the harness off the switch and jumpered it myself to low agitate by using another piece of wire. 

I set the timer up to do an agitate cycle, this time with the motor wiring harness disconnected.  On the low agitate cycle, when I test the motor harness Orange wire and White wire I get 125V, it also shows 125V when testing the Blue wire and White wire.  It seems like this is the problem as it seems to imply that both the high speed winding and low speed windings are activated.  My guess would then be the timer causing the problem.

When the speed selector is set to high speed agitate, just the Blue wire is hot (125V), not the Orange.  Is there anything other than the timer that could be causing this?  Worth replacing the timer part or just buy a new washer. 

thanks again.

-Barty

[Pegi]

Not sure so order the switch and the timer and return for credit what you do not need if ordered thru this web site but try the switch first just to humor me...;)

[williambarty]

It was the timer.  But, now I have one hopefully final question.  I have had the unit apart for the last few days.  I tried putting the transimission back in, but it doesn't seem to want to go in all the way.  It needs to go in another 1/2 inch so I can put the bolts in.  Is there any trick to this?

[Pegi]

Probably need to turn that plastic clutch lever arouund to the other side of the spring in the clutch so the tranny can go up all of the way, thanks for the follow up!!