8 replies to this topic

[Tbrent]

My wife informed me while I was out of town that the dishwasher quit.  I took a look at it when I got home and found that I can turn the timer (into starting position for any cycle including rinsing) and it sometimes starts to fill but quits within a few seconds.  Other times nothing happens.  Once I heard a buzzing sound but no fill.  Is this likely to be a timer problem?  If so, can I confirm by bypassing?

Thank you,

Grasshopper Tim

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

I'd start at the fill valve with my meter and watch the voltage while it's filling.  If voltage stays there and water stops, then I have a bad fill valve.  If the voltage drops off the same time the water stops, then I know I'm dealing with a control problem.  In this case, I'd continue on up the circuit: float switch and then timer, until I find who's killing my voltage.  Then I unsheath my katana and castrate the insolent part, replacing it with one that will serve me.

[Jedi Appliance Guy]

Sounds like a classic stuck pump.

[Tbrent]

The buzzing sound (solenoid engaged?) made me think it was a pump.  Would this cause the fill to shut off though?  I guess I'll take the pump out and see if it is free.

 

[Jedi Appliance Guy]

Your float switch would cause it to stop filling if it's full already.

You do not need to pull your motor to free it or to see if its stuck.

If it's the older black motor and pump you can turn the motor fan blades by hand.

If it's the newer silver one it can be done also but a slightly diffferent way.

If you are able to free your stuck pump, run it for a while with the bottom panel removed and make sure it's not leaking.  one drop is unacceptable.

 

[Tbrent]

OK, It is the black motor.  The fan blade is free...very free...rattling even...and I feel no resistance.  Is this normal or could it have broken of the hub?  The solenoid is engaging, so the motor is getting power.

[Jedi Appliance Guy]

   Sounds like you may have a combination broken fan blade and stuck pump.

   Look up a WD26X10013 motor and pump assembly at the bottom of this page and decide if it's time to repair or replace.

   Just because the drain solenoid is getting power doesn't mean the motor is getting power.  They are on two different circuits.

   If wouldn't hurt one bit (unless you get shocked of course) to take a meter to the motor leads and make sure it's getting power.  At the very least make sure you can hear it humming, trying to run, before you order the pump.  Wouldn't want you to find an additional problem AFTER you've paid for a pump.

[Tbrent]

Thanks for the quick response.  The solenoid is engaging, but it seems to be the only thing buzzing.  However, the leads to the motor read 120V.  There is water in the tub so I guess the float switch has stopped the fill.  Is there anything else besides a bad motor/pump assy that could cause this?

Can you tell how old this is?

Mod# GSD1200X66

SER# MM827807B

If not, I'm inclined to get a new dishwasher. 

Any suggestions for one that is made well?  My wife wants the kind with the utensil rack in the door and stainless.

Thanks,

-Tim

[Jedi Appliance Guy]

   You checked it yourself.  Your motor is getting 120 volts and the motor is not motoring and the pump is not pumping

   In my house my wife can have any Whirlpool product she wants.