Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

GE Washer Burnout??


  • Please log in to reply
16 replies to this topic

#1 VaChick

VaChick

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 10 posts

Posted 10 April 2005 - 07:03 PM

OK, call me dumb.  But 2 yrs ago I had a !@@#@ contractor wire up a place for a new washer and dryer in a 'vacation' home.  He left under unpleasant circumstances with the wires just hanging out of the wall.  I finally persuaded a friend to spend time in the boonies, unpack the washer and put in plugs and I plugged in the washer.  And, it doesn't work (though, it did turn on when we used an extension cord from the other side of the house).  We checked the new plug, and there's 120 out of each side -- ugh!  Is the washer totally toasted -- or is there a fuse/fuses/circuit board we can replace??  And, is it worth trying to fix it?

It's a GE WSLS1100A.  and, if I were to get a similar one, new, would be way too much for me to afford -- (thank you so much President Bush).

Any help is appreciated!

VaChick


Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 Mad Mac

Mad Mac

    Sensei

  • Academy Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,432 posts

Posted 10 April 2005 - 07:44 PM

Have you re-tested the washer with a known good outlet? Also, when you say 120 out of each side, I presume you mean 120 from both live and neutral to earth? If so, do you get 240 between live and neutral? All may not yet be lost.
Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere.

#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Fermented Grand Master
  • 27,927 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 11 April 2005 - 12:21 AM

[user=192]VaChick[/user] wrote:

We checked the new plug, and there's 120 out of each side -- ugh! 

This diagram of the anatomy of a correctly wired household outlet shows you what you should be getting and where. 

Posted Image

How does your outlet compare to this one?


#4 VaChick

VaChick

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 10 posts

Posted 11 April 2005 - 01:12 AM

Yes, we tried it on the other plug he put in, which works fine (a lamp turns on, and doesn't explode) And, no, the washer doesn't work.

Using the guage on the 'bad' plug it shows about 120 (it could be 115, the guage is really hard to read) -- out of BOTH sides.

The contractor that wired the area said he looked at the model specs, so I just assumed that both wires coming out of the wall were the same -- they sure looked the same.  And, I guess I should've bought a guage before and tested them, but, hindsight is perfect.. . . .

So what do you think -- could there be a way to replace a board, fuse, whatever, or is this an expensive lesson in putting in plugs, a cheap electronic guage, and a huge door stop?  Shoot, I don't even know if it's worth the 100 service charge for someone to come look at it. 

Also, I've looked on line for a schematic, for hours, and haven't found one.  Lots of part diagrams, but I don't think they're going to help me. 

thanks again for any help!!

VaChick

'Trapped in a haunted house with clothes that stand by themselves'


#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Fermented Grand Master
  • 27,927 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 11 April 2005 - 01:30 AM

Have you looked inside the control panel for the wiring diagram?  That's usually where they live.  If it's not there, you can call GE, press "1" for English and wait about 42 minutes on hold for the privilege of paying $11 to have them fax or mail you one because, hey, GE Cares:  1-800-GECARES.

I recommend opening the control panel and see if yours is equipped with a line fuse.  O happy day for you if it is!  You can just replace the fuse and you're good to go.  But, remember, this is GE, and they care, they really do care about helping you spend excessive amounts of money on substandard parts.  So chances are that your washer does not have a line fuse and that one or more of the infernal electronic control boards is burned out.  If this is the case, and you should confirm this yourself, then the washer is junk.  Well, actually it was junk the day it was made, but that's another story for another time. 

Samurai's 3rd Law of Appliance Repair holds that, "Electronics and wet appliances do not mix."  One of the big lessons you should take away from this is to avoid any wet appliance that uses electronics for the user controls.  They're getting increasingly hard to find but they're out there. 

Now, go ye forth and make disciples of all nations. 


#6 VaChick

VaChick

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 10 posts

Posted 11 April 2005 - 03:18 AM

I can't figure out how to open the control panel - so I'll wait for my friend to come back, maybe together we can do it, well find out how to get the panel out. I did open the back panel though, hoping something would be back there, but there's no info. 

And, Great Samurai, I know about GE - they bought the company I worked for and are now in the process of gutting it.  Great folks!  But, hey, they make their investors rich, and isn't that what America is all about?  Outsourcing every function they can  overseas -- who cares if it takes 45 minutes on hold to talk to the guy at the help desk -- he can't speak a word of english anyway.  GRRRRRRR!!!!!

Sorry for my outburst there. . . but it's too early to get that brew to mellow out.

And thanks -- I'll let you know if I can find the schematic under the control panel - if/when it opens.

VaChick



[align=center]'amongst a plague of flies and ladybugs, always carry a big flyswatter, a hammer doesn't help'[/align]
 


#7 Budget Appliance Repair

Budget Appliance Repair

    Sensei

  • Academy Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,513 posts

Posted 12 April 2005 - 01:04 AM

Maybe this picture will help you, it shows lititure package ref#1.

I've never worked on or even seen one of these G.E. models so can't help you in how to get into the consule area. I'm sure Samurai will be able to guide you if you can't figure it out from the picture.

http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/GE/00113833i01.gif for a picture of top and consule area.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#8 VaChick

VaChick

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 10 posts

Posted 12 April 2005 - 09:26 AM

Bill, thanks for getting back - the diagrams help, but I still can't get the darn thing off - its got these round things that appear to be holding it on.  I'm restraining myself from taking a pry bar to it.  I hope I don't need a special tool to get them off/open/whatever. 

I'll try to put a picture of these things here:

  if the picture doesn't upload, they're about 3/4" in diameter with a tiny notch.

Thanks again

VaChick

 

 

Attached Files



#9 Fixum

Fixum

    Yamabushi

  • Master Appliantologist
  • PipPip
  • 69 posts

Posted 12 April 2005 - 09:55 AM

sounds as if you have 240 volts on the plug, if you can run the washer through a cycle with an extention cord and all functions work then the recepticle is all that will need to be rewired, if some of the functions do not work then the recepticle will need to ber rewirerd and Then the washer repaired:P
Fix On

#10 VaChick

VaChick

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 10 posts

Posted 12 April 2005 - 11:01 AM

Thanks - I'm just trying to figure out if the washer is worth repairing -- I cannot find the schematics, so right now that's what I'm looking for.  (I already took off the back, felt around the inside of the cabinet, etc.)

if there's a fuse someplace (in the washer/control panel, etc) it's possible the guts didn't get fried, and I can just replace the fuse.  By the way, I didn't smell or hear anything when I plugged and powered on the washer. . . is that a good sign?

From what the other guys said, I need to get the control panel up -- perhaps the schematics are there, or perhaps I'll be able to recognize a fuse or something else that will give me a clue (like if it's all burned inside).  If it's gutted, it's not worth the service call for someone to tell me it's toast. 

and, sigh, I will definitely get an electrician to re-wire from the box! 

thanks again

VaChick



#11 Budget Appliance Repair

Budget Appliance Repair

    Sensei

  • Academy Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,513 posts

Posted 13 April 2005 - 12:25 AM

VaChick, the name is "William" or "Willie" not Bill, Thanks.

Have never seen a fastner clip or screw or whatever that thingy is that looks like that so can't tell you how it comes out. Have you tried to gently pry in the little slot, they look like they may just be clip plugs (little serated edges on a post that just push into the hole and hold it together).

Looking at the site I posted the above picture from it doesn't look like there are any fuses in there. It also looks like the main unit is a processor unit that has everthing on it and if you sent 220volts to it from that bad plug there is a very high probability of instant death to the processor unit.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#12 VaChick

VaChick

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 10 posts

Posted 13 April 2005 - 08:47 AM

William,

Again, thanks for getting back.  Thanks for the suggestion -- heck, if the panel is fried, it doesn't really matter if it gets scratched, etc -- and if it isn't, then I do like duct tape.  I think it comes in white now!

I'm taking all this as a lesson, what the heck, what's done is done and maybe I can learn from it -- I sure learned about plugs and reading a meter!

On the internet, somewhere I found a picture of what someone called the Newer ge washer wire diagram.  I don't know if I can attach the diagram without shrinking it to miniscule size, but would you mind looking at it and seeing if there is anything that looks like a fuse? 

btw, it's incredible how people are so willing to share their knowledge with folks like me.  I really really appreciate it.

 
thanks!!!!

VaChick


[align=center]'a bad day at work is better than the best day cleaning house nd doing laundry'
 
[/align]

Attached Files



#13 VaChick

VaChick

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 10 posts

Posted 13 April 2005 - 09:25 AM

William - the picture was way too small to see anything, I'll try to link the picture here, I wish I could remember where it came from originally, but oh well.

http://www.angelfire...rues/GE/ge.html

and it's a whole lot clearer. 

again, thanks!

VaChick

 



#14 Budget Appliance Repair

Budget Appliance Repair

    Sensei

  • Academy Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,513 posts

Posted 14 April 2005 - 02:16 AM

I think that diagram is from a normal newer style G.E. washer not that strange one you have.

This wiring diagram is a mechanical timer and no fuses in circuit anywhere.

I'm sure this diagram is of no use for any of us to help you, sorry.

But, I did find some more info for you, (You didn't give a complete model# in your first post which would have made this much easier). When giving model# it must be from the model/serial# plate on the machine not the number on your owners manual. (Complete model# should be something like: WSLS1100A0WW)

That thing I didn't know what was that you showed the picture to, if you haven't already figured it out, is just a decorative screw cover that should just pop out and then you can remove the screw under it.

Here's a better place to look at the parts and diagrams for your machine (Maybe, see model# above that I'm using).

CLICK HERE for page to link to all parts pictures and part#'s

Click on the view diagram for "lid & top" see ref#9 Screw cover and ref#10 is the screw under it. The part you are probably going to end up needing is ref#12 main PCB ASSMB (Printed Circuit Board Assembly).

GE part# WH12X10101 CLICK HERE to order from RepairClinic and help support this web site ($108.90 + shipping and the only place that I have ever heard of that will take returns on electrical parts after they've been installed and it doesn't solve your problem) Sears wants $155.49 + $14.99 shipping.

This part is on backorder from all locations that I checked so it may take 2-4 weeks to get.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#15 VaChick

VaChick

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 10 posts

Posted 14 April 2005 - 07:21 AM

William - wow - you're great!

And, yes, I got the control panel off - and found the 'Tech Sheet' with tons of info, including the schematics (where, by the way they tell you how to get into the control panel!).  And, the control panel itself is more complex looking than my pc.  But it is 'covered' with goopy stuff - I guess so individual components can't be replaced?

Anyway, for the last few hours, I've been trying to get my old scanner to work so I can put all the information somewhere to maybe help someone else. 

But, my camera still works, and you can see the wiring diagram at the link AND there appears to be a fuse!

http://www.angelfire...rues/GE/ge.html

? there may be hope for this thing afterall? -- even it it just blew out the control panel, replacing that is cheaper  than a whole new washer.


by looking at the diagram, do you think all I blew out is the control panel -- or the entire thing -- and should I syke myself up to get excited about a 200.00 part, or a (yuck) shopping trip for a $500.00 washer?  (I will definitely try the place you mentioned for the part.  And, if I get a new washer, I'll try to find a compact washer -it needs to fit under the dryer -- that is NOT GE, AND has manual controls.)


Thanks again, you've put a lot of work in on this problem, you must be one of the lucky folks who love what they do, I wish you lived closer, I could trust you.

VaChick


#16 Budget Appliance Repair

Budget Appliance Repair

    Sensei

  • Academy Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,513 posts

Posted 15 April 2005 - 12:23 AM

Ok... That is what we need to help you.

You do have a fuse in the main line curcuit, but I really doubt that it blew. When you pumped 220volts into your machine from that buggered up socket you most likely instantly blew out the main PCB CONTROL. The fuse is rated at up to 250Volts at up to 12amps which connecting with that bad socket setup would not have been to much for the fuse to handle since you didn't short out the machine which the fuse is there to protect from shorts that could cause a fire.

Most likely the board died instantly when the 220volts hit it so no voltage probably got to any other components yet. Only one even possible would be the water valve coils which you could use a test meter and check the OHM reading on each coil and see if all are close to the same and that none are open from the hi-voltage surge.

With a meter you can verify by putting one probe on the PCB CONTROL point marked BLK-1 on the far lift side (Blue wire coming in from power cord) and other probe on the point marked YEL-2 (forth from the right, Brown wire coming in from power cord).

If you don't get a reading of 110-120volts at this point then one of the coils (COIL1 or COIL2 or both), or fuse is bad and your board may be ok-Don't think your going to get that lucky though. I think that COIL1/COIL2 in the power line circuit are just RF (Radio Frequency) Suppressor which the 220volts going through them most likely would not have caused a problem.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#17 VaChick

VaChick

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 10 posts

Posted 16 April 2005 - 05:35 PM

Willie -- yes - it looks like the control panel.  :banana:Ok, not so good, but what the heck, it'll be cheaper than a whole new washer.  And, I'll get an electrician to put in the correct circuit breaker (the wire's ok, since the  contractor put a 120 wire onto the 240 circuit breaker).

I'm ordering the part now, which is as you said on back-order.  And, hey, it's possible to meet interesting people in the laundramat.  :silly:

Anyway, I'll let you know what happens once the part arrives and I put it in.

Again - thanks for your help!!

VaChick

 

 





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics