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Chumpson

Kenmore 110 . 91250100

15 posts in this topic

Help guys, I'm a nooby and don't know much technical stuff, but is this worth fixing, or put it out to pasture?

It runs, you can hear it trying to go, but no movement on the vertical column in the washer and the drum doesn't spin on the spin cycle.

Thanks!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

here is what the suspect part looks like:

post-4554-129045096344_thumb.jpg

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how to get to part?

post-4554-129045096345_thumb.jpg

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here is a breakdown of the innards my friend

post-4554-129045096346_thumb.jpg

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these couplings are a basic malfunction of a very nice machine. I have done it myself.pile up a ton of clothes and leave the water setting low,or wash a rug or compfrter, and BOOM that coupling just fall apart. it helps most if you remove the cabinet by taking them screw off the top and flip that control panel and release the cabinet . that part done broke is in batween the motor and tranny,,,NO NEED TO REMOVE TRANNY!..jeeeeezzzze!!!! I told a guy to brang me the thang and I would show him how to replace the coupling and he yanked out the tranny motor and pump to brang to me. true story!

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Thanks for all the help, this site is great. I have taken it apart and have the coupling pieces out.  Now I have to wait until tomorrow to get the replacement parts from our local shop.  I think you guys just saved me hundreds on a new machine.  :dude:

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Once the cabinet is removed do the following

remove the pump from motor ,aint no bolts just 2 clamp(use large screwdriver)

unplug the motor harness quick connection

remove the 2 clamp that hold motor(2 machanical stopper type screw holding clamps on some model)

after them clamps popped off, the whole motor will fall right to the floor

 along with parts of that malfunctioning drive coupling as shown in photo number one

remove all 3 parts of them malfunctioning drive coupling you know?

lining up all three of them thangs is like chewing bubblegum and fly a helicopter while listen to fitty cent rap in a nice neighborhood near baghdad!  Take yer time.

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[user=4554]applianceman18007260692[/user] wrote:

lining up all three of them thangs is like chewing bubblegum and fly a helicopter while listen to fitty cent rap in a nice neighborhood near baghdad!  Take yer time.

Are you saying that putting it back together is a chore? Or taking it apart?

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[user=4554]applianceman18007260692[/user] wrote:

Once the cabinet is removed do the following

remove the pump from motor ,aint no bolts just 2 clamp(use large screwdriver)

unplug the motor harness quick connection

remove the 2 clamp that hold motor(2 machanical stopper type screw holding clamps on some model)

after them clamps popped off, the whole motor will fall right to the floor

 along with parts of that malfunctioning drive coupling as shown in photo number one

remove all 3 parts of them malfunctioning drive coupling you know?

lining up all three of them thangs is like chewing bubblegum and fly a helicopter while listen to fitty cent rap in a nice neighborhood near baghdad!  Take yer time.

Silly question......i've had to replace this part once a year for the past 5-6 years. My wife vows that she does not overload it. Could i be doing something wrong when repairing it, or is this little part just part of an engineering flaw?

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Your neutral drain on your gearcase isnt working. replaced the gearcase or keep replacing couplings....a reconditioned gearcase will cost you approx 80-90 dollars.

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[user=23009]Tronicsmasta[/user] wrote:

Your neutral drain on your gearcase isnt working. replaced the gearcase or keep replacing couplings....a reconditioned gearcase will cost you approx 80-90 dollars.

Neutral drain? you talking to me?

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LOL, bradman, looks like he posted that in the wrong thread, the other guy was replacing couplers every year I believe....;).....nope, now see it was you asking about what is breaking the couplers....sorry, the last part did not show up in the preview of the thread....overloading can and will cause this, also what was suggested, a tranny hanging up can cause this also....not sure if the neutral drain will but suppose it could, the first washers did not have neutral drain and do not remember them having problems with the coupler breaking..,.does your washer drain first then spin, or does it spin out when it is full of water, draining at the same time.

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the sad reality of it is theses dudes tear up all the time butI has the solution......

Introducing Bionic drive couplers

post-4554-129045096351_thumb.jpg

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This is how the neutral drain works and why its important:

1: Machine agitates for X amount of minutes. (gear inside gearcase kicks up to the side)

2: Timer advances to spin. Runs for approx 2-4 mins (draining but not spinning)

3: The gear falls back but doesn't engage until the timer pauses or lid is lifted manually pausing the gearcase/motor.

4: Once the gearcase stops, the gear kicks back into place and the basket will spin.

As you can see its very very important for the drive parts like the coupling, gearcase, and clutch. It allows all the water or most of it to be drained resulting in less stress on the parts.

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