I have a Kenmore Ultra Fabric Care dryer, model number
110.86880100 This past week it has started to balk a
starting a new load. Basic symptom; press the start button,
you hear the buzzer only, drum does not turn. Sometimes
if we wait for a while the dryer will then start,
but occassionally after running for about half the cycle will
cut off.
Unplugged the unit. Removed the back (and vent tubing). Removed vent screws on top and popped the top. Nothing
seems strange at this point. Removed the 4 screws holing the
vent chute, but I can' get it to slide down and out the back
or up and out the top. Unlike the photo shown on this site, the back access panel only goes about 2/3 the way up toward
the top. Then there is a nonremovable panel connecting the two side s above this. The electrical connection is through this panel via a small removable galvanized access cover.
Where should I be looking for my "start" problem? How can I get the lint chute out so I can clean it and the blower of accumulated lint?
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Dryer wont always start
Started by
Guest_JTeller_*
, Mar 30 2005 10:09 AM
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5 replies to this topic
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#2
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted 30 March 2005 - 10:42 AM
No, your back panel comes clean off. Behold:
With the back panel removed, you can open the lint chute to clear out the gookus, like ahso:
Tear 'em up!
With the back panel removed, you can open the lint chute to clear out the gookus, like ahso:
Tear 'em up!
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#3
Guest_JTeller_*
Guest_JTeller_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 30 March 2005 - 11:17 AM
That is indeed the right diagram. The back panel, labeled 5 in this diagram has come off. This panel is 25 inches high. Then there is a welded in place panel, 9 1/2 inches high that extends from that point to the top corners of either side. It shows in the diagram you psted as well, but is unnumbered, easily identified by the cutout for the pig tail connection.
Its this panel that seems to be inhbiting getting the lint duct to slide down, as it is angled at the top. It wants to wedge between this welded panel and the rear drum support panel. I was hoping to get the duct out without removing the drum and its supports. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong or overlooking something.
I have been reading some other parts of this site and found a several similar symptoms each with a different underlying problem. The most likely fit tome was that the motors thermal cutout was being tripped. If that's the case what are the most likely causes of the motor's over heating?
Thanks,
Jim
Its this panel that seems to be inhbiting getting the lint duct to slide down, as it is angled at the top. It wants to wedge between this welded panel and the rear drum support panel. I was hoping to get the duct out without removing the drum and its supports. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong or overlooking something.
I have been reading some other parts of this site and found a several similar symptoms each with a different underlying problem. The most likely fit tome was that the motors thermal cutout was being tripped. If that's the case what are the most likely causes of the motor's over heating?
Thanks,
Jim
#4
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted 30 March 2005 - 11:37 AM
Oops! Looks like they took the diagram away.
Anyway, sounds like a bad motor. More info on this here.
Anyway, sounds like a bad motor. More info on this here.
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#5
Guest_JTeller_*
Guest_JTeller_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 30 March 2005 - 12:32 PM
Matbe I misunderstood about the lint duct being totally removed. The picutre only shows it backed off from the fan somewhat. So I did that my=uch and cleaned out lint, toothpicks, bobbie pins, and with a vacumm a lot of sand that had collected in the bottom of the duct. It really didn't look like it was impeding the air flow, but certainly was a fire hazard. Nothing much in my flexible vent hose to the wall, and the duct in the wall is galvanized 3x4 rectangular vent, but goes up the wall and outside through the roof. I vacummed up a tad of lint at the bottom of that duct.
Looks like replacing the motor would be at least $100, plus its suggested to replace the blower blades, rollers, and belt tensioner at the same time. The felt seal around my lint screen handle looks shredded. So all those other parts might run at least another $75. Though I hate to discard something that could be made to work, $175 to fix versus about $350 for a new machine leads me to the path of buying new. Several places have "free" delievery and set up at this time, as well as other incentives.
Thanks for taking the tim to look at my problem and pass on some sage advice.
Regards,
Jim
Looks like replacing the motor would be at least $100, plus its suggested to replace the blower blades, rollers, and belt tensioner at the same time. The felt seal around my lint screen handle looks shredded. So all those other parts might run at least another $75. Though I hate to discard something that could be made to work, $175 to fix versus about $350 for a new machine leads me to the path of buying new. Several places have "free" delievery and set up at this time, as well as other incentives.
Thanks for taking the tim to look at my problem and pass on some sage advice.
Regards,
Jim
#6
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted 30 March 2005 - 04:53 PM
Ok, good luck. You'll be doing repairs on any new appliance every 2 to 4 years-- that's the industry average.
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