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SubZero 700TCI Cabinet not cooling


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27 replies to this topic

#1 eightball

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Posted 21 August 2007 - 06:42 AM

Okay, so I went on a vacation for 2 weeks and I've come back to a built-in subzero 700tci (1999) where the top cabinet isn't cooling. Both bottom drawer freezers are working. I've cycled the power on and off, looked at it sternly, didn't magically fix itself.

Suggestions? Things to check? Likely culprits?

Thanks for any help,

Anthony

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Posted 21 August 2007 - 06:53 AM

Sub zero has 2 compressors, 1 of them is probably not working.

#3 eightball

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Posted 21 August 2007 - 07:00 AM

is there an an easy way to test? I've never worked on a frig but I'm pretty electrically adept. How complicated is it to get to it, etc? or is this a situation where I should bite the bullet and call?

Thanks for any suggestions,

Anthony

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Posted 21 August 2007 - 09:27 AM

Both compressors are at the top behind the grille. The one for the ref section is the one to be checked. Not sure which is which. Onbe of them if running you will feel. the other one is either hot and not running or is clicking and trying to start. It may need a relay or a compressor. you will probably have to call a tech

#5 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 21 August 2007 - 11:33 AM

 Actually , the compressors are on the bottom on the 700tci. The area is really tight, but I think you can feel both of them to see if their running. Also check to see if the evaporator fan is running. With the door open depress the switches at the top of the opening. One is for the fan ,one is the lite switch. If the compressor is running , the fan should be running also.
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#6 AccApp

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Posted 21 August 2007 - 11:57 AM

Is the ref compartment cooling at all? If you remove the shelves and take off the rear inside ref panel, what does the evap look like? Is the condenser fan running? Condenser blocked? Any error codes? The condenser is located behind the grill and is hidden by the lower freezer drawer's front panel, remove the lower fr drawer to access the condenser, fan and both compressors.
"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.


http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm

#7 eightball

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Posted 22 August 2007 - 05:58 AM

So bottom line . . . what am I looking at in terms of cost? Just ball park?

#8 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 22 August 2007 - 10:11 AM

You really need to check the items myself and AccApp gave you to check and report your findings to get an accurate ballpark...otherwise I'd guess $150-750...let us know what you find!
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#9 eightball

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Posted 22 August 2007 - 11:19 AM

Thanks, it seems like the second compressor isn't working. Given that your ballpark is much higher than the service call for my home warranty I think I'll let my curiousity rest and just call them.

But if they, as usual, deny service, I'll be back.

A.

#10 eightball

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Posted 30 August 2007 - 11:24 AM

Okay, so my home warranty company has sent out 2 techs who have looked at the refrigerator like it was from another planet. They both suggested 'it's low on freon' and left. Now, I've got the third tech here and he's looking at the fridge like it's from another planet and he's gonna take this sucka apart! I'm more than a little concerned.

Any tips? They look at me particularly oddly when I ask if both compressors are working.

#11 AccApp

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Posted 30 August 2007 - 12:59 PM

You need someone from planet Sub-Zero, only we know how to grok our appliances properly. We will demand much of your Earth cash, but it will be blarking like new when we are done.
"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.


http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm

#12 eightball

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Posted 30 August 2007 - 01:05 PM

Yeah, I sort of feel like that. Sadly, I'm on the home warranty tip at the moment and need to exhaust that.

So - does this hold water?
Tech came today said "I got the fan working - reset the controller board but because the evaporator is clogged with ice I can't test it. The only way to get rid of the ice is to turn the thing off for 24 hours, let the ice melt and then turn it back on. If I'm right the fridge will be back at normal temperature 6 hours after you turn it on."

Thoughts? Conveniently, his answer puts me squarely in a three day weekend so if he's wrong there's no recourse till Tuesday.

Feeling like I took the expensive way to a cheap deal.

#13 AccApp

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Posted 30 August 2007 - 03:19 PM

[user=9503]AccApp[/user] wrote:

Is the ref compartment cooling at all? If you remove the shelves and take off the rear inside ref panel, what does the evap look like? Is the condenser fan running? Condenser blocked? Any error codes? The condenser is located behind the grill and is hidden by the lower freezer drawer's front panel, remove the lower fr drawer to access the condenser, fan and both compressors.

I hate repeating myself. What does the evap look like already? How much ice and where is it?
"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.


http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm

#14 eightball

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Posted 31 August 2007 - 08:52 AM

Sorry, there was no visible ice when I removed the lower freezer drawer and the grill. Is there someplace else I should be looking.

Thanks,

A.

#15 eightball

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Posted 31 August 2007 - 09:59 AM

Update: I also looked under the grill of the lower freezer drawer and saw no visible ice there either.

#16 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 31 August 2007 - 10:44 PM

I sounds like you're not looking in the correct place.

To answer AccApp question, you will have to remove the back wall panel of the refrig and/or freezer to actually see the evaporator coils, (the ones that do the cooling), and preferably take a picture of each and post them.

If the evaporator isn't frosted evenly or has a big blob of ice in one specific area, this would be evidence of a sealed system problem.
William Burk (Willie)
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Eureka, CA 95501

#17 AccApp

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Posted 31 August 2007 - 11:38 PM

Yes, do as Willie suggested and do as I asked.
"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.


http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm

#18 eightball

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Posted 13 September 2007 - 12:00 PM

hey,

Sorry I'm not intentionally not doing what you asked I just can't figure it out. 

I keep getting bounced around by different companies.  Definitely about to lose it!

So when I take off the rear panel in the fridge compartment I see nothing but a white wall.  I see no coils, nada.  It doesn't look like I can take that further panel off.  There are openings leading down with some foam and wires in them but essentially this appears to be a channel for air from below. This is the 700TCI built in 1999 so I don't see any error codes either.

Am I looking in the right place?

Basically now they are saying the defrost cycle isn't long enough and that they need to replace the control board.  But at that point they kicked me over to another company.

I'll take some photos of what I see and see if that helps.

Thanks for listening and the help!!

#19 denrayr

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Posted 15 September 2007 - 06:22 PM

Demand that your home warranty company send out a Subzero authorized company. It has been almost a month I would be furious. We cant help you because you havent provided a picture of the evaporator. Remove all the shelves then the light cover in the top of the unit. This should expose some screws securing a fan shroud. Remove the shroud then you will see screws securing the back panel. Remove the panel then snap a picture for us.
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www.redrockrepair.com

Serving St George and Southern Utah

#20 AccApp

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Posted 16 September 2007 - 08:56 AM

[user=25797]eightball[/user] wrote:

Basically now they are saying the defrost cycle isn't long enough and that they need to replace the control board.  But at that point they kicked me over to another company.


You are dealing with idiots, the ref comp does not have a defrost cycle. The ref evap coil defrosts when the control board is satisfied and the compressor shuts off (off-cycle defrost, does not work for freezers).

You need a real Sub-Zero service agent. You shouldn't have to wait for the blind squirrels who sub-contract for this warranty outfit to find their nuts.
"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.


http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm




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