Jump to content


Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

Kitchenaid Dishwasher KUDM01TJWH1


  • Please log in to reply
19 replies to this topic

#1 keyisthekey

keyisthekey

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 22 August 2007 - 09:45 AM

    I replaced the tub gasket and heater element in this dishwasher (which also required replacing the control board). It ran perfectly for one load after the repair:D, but quit in the middle of the rinse cycle on the second load:X.

It's completely dead  :poison: - no lights, no response from the pushbuttons.

It's plugged in to a live outlet:yikes:, and closing the door switch had no effect.






Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 KurtiusInterupptus

KurtiusInterupptus

    B.M.F.

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,856 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Killians Red

Posted 22 August 2007 - 10:06 AM

Open the console back up (where you replaced the control) and gaze upon the thermal fuse... known issues with these... remove one wire and test for continuity. If it is open...
CLICK HERE
to order your replacment. Make sure to use the entire kit when installing part.

As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#3 keyisthekey

keyisthekey

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 26 August 2007 - 11:35 AM

Open the console back up (where you replaced the control) and gaze upon the thermal fuse... known issues with these... remove one wire and test for continuity. If it is open...
CLICK HERE
to order your replacment. Make sure to use the entire kit when installing part

Indeed, o sublime one, it was the fuse. I have sent for a replacement. Unfortunately, I cannot use the source you recommended, because they only ship to Juneau by courier, which increases the price of parts beyond my modest means. I am forced to deal with a competitor who will make the trek to the local post office and send things to me for much lower shipping costs.

I do have a question. I assume the thermal fuse opened up because the air temperature at the door vent exceeded 98 degrees C, its rated opening value, during the drying cycle . This is evidently hotter than with the original heating element. The information sheet sent with the new element/control board indicated that the new element consumed more wattage when in air, which should result in higher temperatures during the drying cycle after the water drained out. However, when I opened the door after the fuse opened up, there was 2 inches of standing water in the bottom of the tub, completely submerging the heating element. The fuse is up by the vent at the top of the dishwasher's door. For the air passing by the thermal fuse to be hotter than 98 C, that water would have had to be boiling (100 C). That's pretty hot for dishwashing!

So, here's the question: Is replacing the thermal fuse going to solve this problem, or am I just going to blow another one out because the new heating element is too hot  for the design of my older dishwasher?


#4 BLTH15

BLTH15

    Kohai

  • Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 396 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 26 August 2007 - 12:50 PM

if it does it would probably be something else causing it to go.  be sure to cut and splice in wires as described replacing just the fuse will cause it to go again.  the air shouldn't be moving across the fuse .  if it is then the et seal is bad.

#5 KurtiusInterupptus

KurtiusInterupptus

    B.M.F.

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,856 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Killians Red

Posted 26 August 2007 - 12:53 PM

The failure of the thermal had alot more to do with the loose connections of the wires on the fuse itself than the temp on the new element. Loose connections produce heat, which in turn trips the fuse .This is why I recommend you use the entire repair kit , which includes new wire connections. You probably inadvertently loosened them when you changed the control. Congrats on your repair!            Sorry BLTH, you beat me to it!LOL!                                   
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#6 keyisthekey

keyisthekey

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 07 September 2008 - 11:16 AM

Plugged in, and hooked to water and drain. Pushing any of the buttons get a light, but nothing more:poison:. The drain button works, and the unit will pump out a quart of water if you pour one in the bottom.

Not sure what to look at next:?.




#7 appl.tech.29501

appl.tech.29501

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,025 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Waffle House Coffee

Posted 07 September 2008 - 11:29 AM

any lights flashing? or just steady on?
If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below

One on one repair help now available !

http://homepage.mac....ppl.tech.29501/

http://twitter.com/ApplTech29501

http://www.facebook.com/ApplTech29501

www.eliteapplianceservice.org

#8 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 07 September 2008 - 11:54 AM

(you should have continued with the original thread for reference)

When you replaced the Thermal Fuse, did you use the Wiring Kit that came with it ?

 

.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,388 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 07 September 2008 - 12:14 PM

[user=3641]RegUS_PatOff[/user] wrote:

(you should have continued with the original thread for reference)


I merged 'em.

#10 keyisthekey

keyisthekey

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 07 September 2008 - 01:10 PM

Clean light is flashing 7 times, pause, 7 times, pause, etc. Pushing either the high-temp or the energy save button gets two quick flashes of their respective lights. Others steady on.

Thanks for the merge.

Yes, I used the full kit to reinstall the thermistor.  It's worked fine up until about a week ago.


#11 appl.tech.29501

appl.tech.29501

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,025 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Waffle House Coffee

Posted 07 September 2008 - 01:17 PM

sounds like a problem with the heat circuit.... need to ohm out the heating element and high temp T-stat then give us a post back.
If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below

One on one repair help now available !

http://homepage.mac....ppl.tech.29501/

http://twitter.com/ApplTech29501

http://www.facebook.com/ApplTech29501

www.eliteapplianceservice.org

#12 keyisthekey

keyisthekey

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 07 September 2008 - 03:50 PM

How do I find the high temperature thermostat?  What is the flash 7 times telling me?



#13 Pegi

Pegi

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,120 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Sweet Iced Tea

Posted 07 September 2008 - 03:55 PM

Service Pointer....
Buy your parts here! Posted ImagePosted ImageRead More

If we helped you kick some appliance bootay and saved you some coin, consider helping' us keep the lights on ==> http://beer.fixitnow.com

Are you a Master Appliantologist? ==> http://appliantology...ppliantologist/

#14 keyisthekey

keyisthekey

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 07 September 2008 - 05:29 PM

OK, I read the service pointer, but still don't know how to run the service diagnoistic on my machine, which, an earlier post said, may solve the problem. I downloaded a sheet for the TB0, which says to press heated dry, normal, heated dry, normal within 6 seconds.  My dishwasher does not have a heated dry button. The tech spec is not inside the door where it's supposed to be - it's a used dishwasher, was probably removed by the previous owner.  What do I press to get the service diagnostic started, and how do I interpret the readout.

I'll drag the thing out from under the counter if I can't run the test, but I'd sure like to see what the machine has to say for itself before I do that.


#15 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 07 September 2008 - 05:35 PM

Check the bottom center of page 2

KUDM01TJWH1 Tech Sheets 8533399

.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#16 keyisthekey

keyisthekey

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 08 September 2008 - 02:23 PM

Thanks very much for the tech paper - it's a big help. I've run the diagnostic now, and everything checks out. I now get responses to the buttons. However, the motor is not turning. The valves open, it takes in water, the pump empties it out, but when it gets to the part of the cycle where the motor is supposed to start turning, all I hear is a loud hum, and the motor gets pretty warm if I let it go for more than a few seconds. We pulled it out from under the counter, set it up on a couple of chairs, and confirmed that the motor is not turning over. So, what's the usual failure mode? Motor, starting capacitor, or some other component up the line?

#17 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 08 September 2008 - 02:44 PM

Can you turn the Motor by hand ?

They may be something caught in the Chopper Blade.

KitchenAid KD-01 Stainless Steel Dishwasher

.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#18 keyisthekey

keyisthekey

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 08 September 2008 - 02:55 PM

No, cannot turn it by hand. How do I get to the chopper blade?

BTW, the motor ohms out correctly (7.8 ohms across the main winding, 5.6 across the auxiliary), and the capacitor charges and discharges nicely. Also, in response to the first suggestion, I did measure the resistance of the heating element (13.8 ohms) and the hi-temp thermostat (0.9 ohms).

#19 keyisthekey

keyisthekey

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 08 September 2008 - 04:06 PM

Found the procedure on the chopper blade. Doing it now.

#20 keyisthekey

keyisthekey

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 08 September 2008 - 04:58 PM

Removed chopper assembly and cleaned out a few bones and a piece of plastic that looks like half of one of those anchors you push into a wall to hold a screw. Reassembled, tried to run the dishwasher, but motor still not turning. I suspect the other half of the plastic thingy might have made it past the chopper and gotten into the motor, or perhaps something else is jamming it, or the bearings are shot, because it's really trying to turn. I'll try removing the motor the next time I can get to this project.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics