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Icemaker ... no heat, no ice?


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8 replies to this topic

#1 zoner88

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Posted 30 June 2005 - 05:09 PM

I have 106.626662 on the Control Module on the ice maker if that helps.  Well, after a few days of checking things out, I found this site and a lot of good info!  And may have found why my less-than-two year old fridge quit making ice --- er well, it makes ice, just doesn't give it up!

Water goes into the maker, it freezes, the arm starts to rotate, then gets stuck trying to move the ice out.  At that stage, I felt so confident that I couldn't been getting heat, I touched the elements with my fingers to see if they were hot.  They weren't.

Why would I do that?  I was frustrated.  I spend 4 complete cycles, trying to figure out why the ice wasn't coming out.  I would have to unplug the fridge and open the freezer for about 5 minutes (just enough to free the ice), then it would complete the cycle until the hold.

Right now the arm is up (off).  So ...hmm ... well, the temp sensor for the ice is working I'm assuming because the arm does start to move to remove the ice.  Either the control module isn't making contact for the heating element or the heating element is bad.  I read somewhere that measuring the resistance between H and L I should get 60-90 Ohms (with the fridge unplugged!).  I got about 78 Ohms.  How can I check to see if I'm getting power to the elements?  Are there test points during the cycle I can check as the elements are supposed to be on?  For voltage?

Thanks for the help.  Sucks not having automatic ice ... :P


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#2 Pegi

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Posted 30 June 2005 - 06:07 PM

If the heater is not coming on would suggest replacing the ice maker or see if you can get just the heater, however there might be something defective on the circut board also, that looks to be a Whirlpool ice maker.  I would just replace the icemaker and be done with it.
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#3 zoner88

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Posted 01 July 2005 - 04:40 PM

Well, I may have a friend with a spare so until then I decided to do my own troubleshooting.  I removed it and checked everything by eye.  Noticed that the screws holding the front console to the mold was a little loose.  I put everything back together carefully and snug and put it back in.  Put it in harvest mode and kept my finger on the heating element at the point it's supposed to come on.  They got hot!  :)  Cross my fingers ... I'll have ice tonight .. :cool:

Maybe something was loose.  I'm thinking ... what does that sensor control?  If it doesn't work, then the motor shouldn't turn at all from the 2'clock position, right?  It also controls the heater element?  Or part thereof in conjunction with the "wheel?"


#4 Pegi

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Posted 01 July 2005 - 06:28 PM

The thermostat is what starts the motor running for the harvest cycle when it reaches 14 degrees, this also gives power to the mold heater at the same time.  However if you manually started a harvest cycle before the ice maker thermostat reached 14* and this thermostat was not closed the heater should have NOT come on.   Was the ice maker warm or cold when you did this test.
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#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 01 July 2005 - 10:16 PM

You could spend time troubleshooting the exact problem with the heater, trying to pin down either the heater element, thermostat, or control module. But, in the end, you're going to be better off just replacing the icemaker.

http://fixitnow.com/...-day-buying.htm

#6 zoner88

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Posted 02 July 2005 - 02:10 AM

Thnx!  I think I found the problem.  Didn't notice it at first, but on the exposed gear wheel, one of the inner clips is broken, causing the contacts not to be a bit flakey.  Time for new unit ... :)

#7 zoner88

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Posted 02 July 2005 - 04:40 AM

[user=533]Pegi[/user] wrote:

The thermostat is what starts the motor running for the harvest cycle when it reaches 14 degrees, this also gives power to the mold heater at the same time.  However if you manually started a harvest cycle before the ice maker thermostat reached 14* and this thermostat was not closed the heater should have NOT come on.   Was the ice maker warm or cold when you did this test.

It was just reinstalled in the freezer so I would say warm.  Jumping H & T looked to me like it just bypasses the thermostat -

#8 Pegi

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Posted 02 July 2005 - 05:57 AM

Yes, this by-passed the thermostat, which was still open, so the heater should not have come on.
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#9 zoner88

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Posted 02 July 2005 - 11:45 AM

It only came on during the turn cycle it was supposed to come on.  It turned off after the gear rotated far enough.  I'm just trying to get it going enough until Tues when I'll get another one from another Kenmore a friend has.  He has a 106 Kenmore too, but removed it because it's a garage fridge with no water input.  I know, some are different, but it won't fit, I'll get a new one.  Why pay if you can get one for free?  :cool:  I'll have to take a pic of my "rig" on it ... basically a screw holding the gear in on the other side where the clip broke ... hehe.  I found that if I held that part of the gear in, it would continue ... funny thing is, it would stop for some reason, but the heater would keep going and the forks would melt inside the ice unitl I caught it ... damn things ... lol!




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