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Terry

Dishwasher leaking out sides of door and repeats cycles

3 posts in this topic

I'm in New Zealand and I've got a Kelvinator K3886S dishwasher (bought about 1989 or a bit earlier), and have fixed several problems in the past, but these ones have got me stumped.

1. It started leaking out the sides of the door (it seems to be overfilling).  I notice the water level is well above the heating element, but I can't see any device inside the dishwasher which might detect water level, and cut off when it gets too high.  I've read this (http://fixitnow.com/2003/12/appliance-tip-of-day-diagnosing.htm), but it didn't help much.  (Note: There's a note over the timer which says "IMPORTANT: If machine has to be moved or tilted for servicing, remove air tube from Pressure Switch and blow down before reusing machine.  Overfilling can result from sump water lodging in this tube."  About a week ago, I had the machine on its side, trying to resolve a problem where it was leaking form the TOP of the door.  In the end, I resolved it by simply cleaning the door gasket and adjusting the door catch, but forgot to blow down the tube.  I have now blown down it, but the problem continues).

2. Also, the dishwasher has started repeating its cycle, after it had turned off.  Is this definitely a faulty timer?  Is the timer the box with heaps of wires coming out of it, with a rotating pinion on the front, which clicks as the programme advances, and which I can manually advance with pliers?  Is this problem likely to be related to #1?

Thanks!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Your dishwasher uses a pressure sensing switch for water level control instead of filling the basin based on time, like most other dishwashers.  This opens up a whole new world of possibilities.  The first suspect would be the pressure switch.  I would test it the same way I'd test a pressure switch in a washing machine:  blow into the tube and use my meter to see if he switching contacts change in response to pressure.

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Thanks Samurai,

As a result of your suggestion, I've tested the pressure switch with a multimeter (set to ohms), and I didn't know what pins to test, so I tested all combinations, and a couple of them went form infinite resistance to just a few (eg: 3) ohms, as I started to blow into the pipe, and one did the opposite.  Not knowing if this was OK, I compared these results against a 2nd pressure switch, and it seemed the same.  Just in case I'd missed something, I installed the 2nd pressure switch, and the first time I ran the dishwasher the water level was good (just below the element), but since then, it's been too high again.  Wot now?

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