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Whirlpool washer model #LXR6232EQO agitates while spinning


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12 replies to this topic

#1 maryloucb

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Posted 05 November 2007 - 05:11 AM

My top loader whirlpool washer makes a terrible knocking noise while spinning, and I have determined that it is agitating while it is spinning.  After reading through several similar postings here I have determined it may be related to some sort of transmission, clutch and/or brake issue (are we talking about my Toyota truck too?)

I finally figured out how to disassemble/fix/reassamble my Asko washer and now I've moved and inherited this monster.  Frankly, I'm scared.  :crybaby:  Is it time to call in the professionals or can I handle this?


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#2 Pegi

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Posted 05 November 2007 - 05:35 AM

Only thing that I know of that will cause these to agitate and spin at the same time is the tranny.....not hard to do, I can change them out in about 20 minutes here at the shop...will cost around $150.00 for the tranny plus shipping and tax I believe...

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#3 Pegi

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Posted 05 November 2007 - 05:38 AM

Well, I was pretty close....lol....that is an 0 at the end of your model number, not a O  ;)
http://www.repaircli...asp?R=154&N=423

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#4 maryloucb

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Posted 05 November 2007 - 05:43 AM

Thanks for the quick reply.  Now I must ponder whether I spend $150 on the part or $399 on a slightly dinged front loader.

#5 Kalel76

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Posted 05 November 2007 - 03:59 PM

Unless you are an Appliance tech yourself, you might want to stay away from that "front loader".  You think you have problems now...just wait.  It doesn't get any better than a Whirlpool top load washer.  Those are the easiest washers you'll ever work on. 

I will also add that I encountered a similar problem.  With one exception, not only was it spinning and agitating at the same time, but it was also trying to fill with water.  I replaced the timer and fixed the problem. 

If you lift the top up (that holds the timer, pressure selector, etc) and see the timer in a metal body.  Try bending the tabs so you can see inside, and see if you don't see burn marks or discoloration...then you definitely have a bad timer.  Be careful though when you take this apart, there are lots of pieces and they easily fly off.


#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 06 November 2007 - 02:10 AM

Unless you are an Appliance tech yourself, you might want to stay away from that "front loader". You think you have problems now...just wait. It doesn't get any better than a Whirlpool top load washer.


The blind leading the blind as they struggle with the modern washing machine dilemma: buy a water-hog top-loader that uses about 56 gallons of water per load or a front loader that uses about 12 gallons per load.

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#7 maryloucb

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Posted 06 November 2007 - 02:36 AM

[user=26271]Kalel76[/user] wrote:

Unless you are an Appliance tech yourself, you might want to stay away from that "front loader".  You think you have problems now...just wait.  It doesn't get any better than a Whirlpool top load washer.  Those are the easiest washers you'll ever work on. 

Okay, I have to disagree...I worked on my Asko front loader and it was a pretty simple design.  The choice was pretty easy for me.  I swore that if I ever had to replace this particular washer I would get a front loader.  Less water, less energy, no expensive transmission to break...my new front loader is on its way!  Yippee!  The planet will thank me.

#8 Poobah

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Posted 06 November 2007 - 03:16 AM

I don't know what brand front loader you purchased and it really doesn't matter (hope it was a Whirlpool though) ...I usually don't recommend extended warranties but with a front loader I would purchase it if offered....trannys are expensive for top loaders but they are mechanical in nature....most ever device on a front loader is of an electrical nature and are equally if not more expensive and they will tear up also...the money you save on detergent and water will more than pay for the warranty and piece of mind down the road is a plus
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#9 Kalel76

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Posted 07 November 2007 - 02:36 AM

Thanks Poobah, good to see someone else sees the light.

#10 Dan Webster

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Posted 07 November 2007 - 01:10 PM

You might can pick up a good used tranny if you look for an appliance boneyard near you

 they go for 40 bucks here. I have come across one crazy tranny that agitated during spin cycle. That is wild aint it? I never got around to doing an autopsy on it to see what was wrong but I suspect that a pin sheared off the worm gear allowing it to do its thing even while the washer is going opposite direction and spinning like mad.

It is worth fixing. These machines are pretty cool. You have a really uncommon  problem. Usually not found in these bad boys.

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#11 maryloucb

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Posted 07 November 2007 - 04:25 PM

Well, unfortunately I live in the middle of nowhere, so it is hard to find parts for anything, let alone used parts.  I usually have to rely on the internet to find stuff like that.  I found a really great deal on a brand new front loading washer, so I think I'm going that route.  I will see if anyone around here wants to tackle the repair on the Whirlpool washer and take it off my hands, though.  Thanks everyone for your help.

#12 RxEnergy

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Posted 07 November 2007 - 06:30 PM

Before you all the way out and shell out for a new tranny check the basket block and the nut, which tightens the inner tub. With machine standing still try and move the basket with your hands: side-to-side and up-down. If it moves freely replace basket block and tighten it realy good. You'll also need a tool to undo and tighten the nut.  


#13 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 07 November 2007 - 10:30 PM

There's only one thing that causes these direct drive tranmissions to agitate and spin at the same time, (there is one other thing that could cause it but have never heard of or seen it happen, the end of the shifter fork bends or breaks off).

The agitate cam on the agitate shaft, the ramps on the cam wear down enough so that when the shifter shifts the cam the cam can't lift the agitate gear high enough to disengage the spines that mate the gear to the shaft.

It's only around $15 for the part and not that hard to change. It can be messy if you're not careful when you open the transmission case, (need to have it held tight and level before trying to remove the case cover).

You don't have to worry about adding or changing the oil, the agitator shaft just lifts straight out and then you can change the cam. Use a razor blade to clean the old red locktite sealant from the case and cover then just use blue RTV gasket eliminator from the hardware or auto supply store to reseal the cover to the case, (just a small bead to the outer edge so that it doesn't squish into the insides of the gear case, probably wouldn't hurnt anything but better to be safe).

Here's a couple of discussions talking more about this same problem, some will have links to the part and pictures of the tranmission break down:
http://applianceguru...forum2/496.html
http://applianceguru...orum2/6785.html
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501




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