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Maytag side by side fridge--warm on food side


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27 replies to this topic

#21 risktaker99

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Posted 11 August 2005 - 08:29 AM

there is continuity.

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#22 risktaker99

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Posted 11 August 2005 - 08:47 AM

I measured 23 ohms between pins where pins 2 and 3 go on the plug.

#23 risktaker99

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Posted 11 August 2005 - 08:50 AM

I measured 23 ohms from using the socket (pins 2 and 3)that plugs into the defrost timer.

#24 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 11 August 2005 - 10:47 AM

I measured 23 ohms from using the socket (pins 2 and 3)that plugs into the defrost timer.


This means you have continuity through the heaters and defrost thermostat.

With the refrigerator unplugged and the timer set to defrost mode, check continuity from timer pin 2 to pin 1.


Continuity on this test?

Answer this and we'll proceed.




#25 risktaker99

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Posted 11 August 2005 - 03:37 PM

I did have continuity. I also think since my last post I discovered the problem or to be more exact TWO problems that existed.  It seems the fill tube that goes into the ice maker had come out of the assembly on the rear of the freezer. This may have occurred when I had a problem with no ice being formed because water had frozen in the tube and I put a coat hanger up it to unclog it several weeks ago. I think this occurred because I also discovered that the fill valve is leaking and drips when it should be off. So I must have dislodged the tube when I put the coat hanger in the tube. Consequently, unbeknownst to me, water began slowly dripping down the side of the rear of the freezer. It began creating a block of ice on top of the evaporator coil. Eventually, it became a monster!!!  It was 4 inches high of solid ice. As it grew it surrounded all the wires for the heater and defrost thermostat. This must have been the reason why the GFI kept popping since all of these wires including the terminal block were encapsulated in water. The block of ice became so large it "blocked" (bad pun) any air movement across the evaporator coil. So the temperature of the frig began to rise despite the defrost cycle which couldn't compete with the constant dripping of water being added to the "monster".

For your viewing pleasure I've attached a picture of what it looked like. It took me 45 minutes to melt this block of ice with a hair dryer.

Now the only thing I have to get is a new fill valve so the ice maker doesn't overflow from too much water.

As always thanks for all of your help. You kept my sanity as I worked through the problem.

 

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#26 nickfixit

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Posted 11 August 2005 - 03:57 PM

How about....

A small crack or leak in the glass tube allowing water to get in. Then you get a short when it goes into defrost.and you trip the GFI.

I'm amazed that these glass heaters last. They tell you not to get finger prints, skin oil, or any grease on them, or it can ruin the heater. If it's that fragile, how's it going to take the ice and cold water dropping on it when it's red hot?

Nick

It's funny, all this writing, and if we were there it would be a quick and easy call.

" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"

#27 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 11 August 2005 - 04:04 PM

[user=425]nickfixit[/user] wrote:

It's funny, all this writing, and if we were there it would be a quick and easy call.


Next time, remind me to ask for a picture at the beginning of a thread!

#28 risktaker99

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Posted 11 August 2005 - 04:04 PM

...I agree about the stupid design of these heaters. As for the service call, I see you're in Detroit. I'm in New Jersey. Unfortunately, there are not to many competant service people who will come at the drop of a hat. If I had one, I'd treat him like gold. They're hard to find.

Thanks again. BTW, I hope it was the ice and not a crack in the heater glass. I'd hate to have to take the frig apart again for the third time!!

 





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