Posted 25 November 2007 - 04:09 AM
No matter what part of the cycle I start the unit in, it will run for 20-40 seconds, then sit idle for another 30-60 second and turn itself off. I have visually inspected the control board and no resistors are blown, including the infamous R11. The unit fills with water and drains fine, but the drum does not turn in any part of the cycle.
Any advice on where to go next?
Posted 25 November 2007 - 04:20 AM
Posted 25 November 2007 - 04:56 AM
As I understand it, if there is 120VAC at the control board, the motor is bad. If there is not 120VAC at the board, am I to assume that the board is bad, or are there more diagnostics? Also if the board is bad, what is the part number for it?
Posted 25 November 2007 - 05:03 AM
One on one repair help now available !
Posted 25 November 2007 - 05:37 AM
Posted 06 December 2007 - 10:53 AM
One last question. Any uses for the old motor and contoller. Do I recycle them somewhere or trash them?
Posted 23 December 2007 - 02:58 PM
As recommended by "Trying to help" - I took JP4 off the motor control board and ran the motor test. It ran for 10 to 15 minutes at about 50 r.p.m. Seeing that as a successful motor test I pressed STOP.
My question is:
Do I have a bad machine control board (again)?
I replaced the machine control about 3 years ago, maybe four, because I had (yes, you guessed it) the dreaded R11/Q6 / wax motor problem. Yes, we claimed off Maytag but all we got was a $280 coupon... towards the purchase of another Maytag appliance - duh - such a deal!
I'd be really glad to know what you recommend might be wrong or what to test next.
Thanks too, to the great person who scanned and shared the repair manual, which I'm reading for extra ideas. Yah boo sucks to Maytag - especially for all their non-help !!
The beer fund money is waiting
Nibor, a.k.a. the crazy Brit, or was that the looney limey?
Posted 23 December 2007 - 05:25 PM
If so, replace the board, the wax motor and microswitches on the door latch.
If not, check unbalance switches.
Posted 23 December 2007 - 06:39 PM
I was pretty much at the point where I was resigned to buying a new machine control board BUT I looked at page 2-10 of the repair manual where it talks about the inertial unbalance switch.
I decided to check it out.
I found where the two blue leads running from it go to a connector and the cable colour changes to orange. I disconnected that connector and continuity tested the blue cables (and thus the switch and the circuit was closed.
I reconnected the connector and retested the spin cycle and my flabber was totally ghasted - the machine spun correctly.
Verdict - So far as I can tell the (inertial unbalance switch) connector wasn't fully connected, maybe it shook loose but now the machine is spinning like a top.
I'm so relieved and glad not to be about $200 out of pocket.
The moral: Keep checking the connections. A similar connector problem caused our Bosch dishwasher to malfunction.
Thank you all for your advice.
It's working - Yippee!!
Oh yes, I almost forgot... I had a nice cool glass of Stone's Ruination IPA to celebrate.
Posted 24 December 2007 - 01:42 AM
Posted 11 April 2010 - 01:34 PM
And you all helped me fix my GE refrigerator so I'm confident I can do this too with your help.
My previous apprenticeship expired on April 3, 2010 so I purchased the full year this time.
Now to the problem.... the washer appears to work fine up until the rinse cycle. The softener never gets added and it stopped all together at the 3rd rinse indicator and clothes were sopping wet. Seems to be a spin problem but I did get it to spin fine - once.
I removed the hoses and there's nothing accumulated there and both hot and cold water get into the machine just fine.
Any suggestions at this point?
Thanks in advance! I know with your help I can get this old machine going again soon!
From the movie "Contact"
Posted 11 April 2010 - 01:39 PM
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Posted 11 April 2010 - 01:43 PM
From the movie "Contact"
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