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KitchenAid Range - Oven Won't Work


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6 replies to this topic

#1 Hellogbb

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Posted 05 July 2005 - 03:18 AM

We have a KitchenAid KESC300HWH0 (S/N IMJ4234322) slide-in range.

Nothing in the oven will heat up. The cooktop is fine. The oven sensor checks out okay at 1103 ohms.

No fault codes appear while plugged in, and I do not know for sure how to "force" the fault codes to appear, unless it is as follows:

Disconnected the ribbon wire from the ERC and reapplied power while wire was off. Returned a F2-E0 code, which the Tech Sheet in the oven says "Replace keypad sw. assy". Is this because the wire was off, or is this telling me there is a problem with the keypad, as opposed to the ERC?

Some information sources say the keypad and the ERC may be one component. Do you know if this is the case - is the keypad part of the ERC, or a separate component?

If separate parts, how I can determine which item is the problem?

Thank you.
GB

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#2 kdog

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Posted 05 July 2005 - 04:09 AM

failure code is showing because you have ribbon disconnected- what exactly does the unit do??  can you program it to bake? will it accept commands and then do the icons in the display light up as if oven is on,but just doesn't heat up??- could be a failed element,related wiring,or the circuit board that is mounted on the lower r.h. side of the unit.(relays)
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#3 Hellogbb

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Posted 05 July 2005 - 06:18 AM

When programed to bake, broil, or clean, there is no heating of the elements at all. The display says it is baking, broiling, or cleaning, but it isn't. Is the circuit board you are mentioning the large one (part 3191107 - ERC?) under the keypad? What do you mean by the "lower right hand side of the unit (relays)"? Are you talking about the relays on the ERC board; are the relays replaceable? Is there any way to run diagnostics? Should I just replace 3191107? I appreciate any help with this. GB

#4 kdog

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Posted 06 July 2005 - 07:44 AM

there are 2 variations of k/a controls, the early version had all of the relays mounted on the main control unit(range timer), then a few years later,they got wise,and placed the relays on a seperate board at the lower r.h. corner,behind the side panel- viewing the diagram for your model,it looks like all of the relays are on the control- if the unit accepts the command to operate,and then goes into the selected function,but does not heat,it means there is either no power getting to the element,or the element has failed,since the outer pass of the broil element is used during bake function,it should still heat up if the bake element has failed,so my guess would be that either the d.l.b. relay on the board has failed,or the internal circuits within the control are not energizing the relay.  some of the kitchen aid units used an in-line 20amp fuse on the red supply line between the terminal block where the power cord connects and the d.l.b. on the control. with no power applied to the range,remove back cover and measure for continuity between the main red connections to the relay on the control that has 2 red wires connected to it- there should be continuity to one of those wires,if not,examine the wire that runs up to the control for a fuse which will be covered in heat shrink as this may have opened,if so,you'll likely need to purcgase a new wire/fuse ass'y. in canada we have different wiring codes,and when these fuses fail,we are instructed to remove the fuse and bypass it as it is not required when range is wired to our code.however,i do not recommend you do this unless instructed to do so by manufacturer.
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#5 Hellogbb

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Posted 06 July 2005 - 06:32 PM

So, I checked all three oven elements, and all three check out on ohm meter at 25 - 45 ohms. Then, I located the d.l.b. relay - it was located on the right rear low, boxed in with the ambient fan. The relay is an Omron G4B-112T1-FD-US-RP 120VAC, and it looked like it took a direct hit from some cooking juices! Didn't know how or if I could check it, so I cleaned it up and replaced it. Then I checked the red line from the terminal block to the d.l.b.relay, and it DID have continuity to one of the red wires to the d.l.b. (the one with what appears to be a fuse wrapped in shrink wrap) so I did not unwrap the shrink. The other redline on the d.l.b. did NOT have continuity to the terminal block red line. So, what do you think - replace the d.l.b. relay?

#6 kdog

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Posted 07 July 2005 - 07:21 AM

no,that is correct; one of the red wires should show coninuity from the main harness,and the other should not(because the relay is open)- if you can measure voltage (on a 250v scale or higher)- turn the oven on to bake and measure across the 2 red lines on the d.l.b.  if you measure 220v-250v the d.l.b. is open, but it might be open because of the circuitry inside the small board that it is mounted to.  if you look at the other terminals on this board,you'll find one is marked L or line and another marked N or neutral- also check these 2 terminals as there should be 120v present there when unit is programmed to bake, if the voltage is there,replace this circuit board.  hope this helps.
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#7 Hellogbb

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Posted 07 July 2005 - 12:38 PM

The relay is NOT mounted to or near a circuit board. It is simply affixed by two small screws to a metal box which houses the ambient fan. It has five terminals, two are red wires, one is white wired, one is yellow wired, one terminal was clipped off.

When you refer to a circuit board, are you talking about INSIDE of the relay box, something I can not see? Or are you talking about the main board (part 3191107 - ERC)under the keypad?

I had to leave the location where the range is located, so I will not be able to check voltages until late August. Since the Omron G4B is only about $10, I'll order and have it on hand in case it got fried. Would the range work otherwise if this relay is bad? All range functions are operating normally.

If the relay is good, or if I simply replace it, and the oven is still not operating, what would that suggest is the problem; the main circuit board (part 3191107 - ERC)?

Thank you.




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