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Kenmore Dryer - Heat Only


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5 replies to this topic

#1 hwood

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Posted 06 July 2005 - 07:18 AM

My wife likes to use the "Air Dry No Heat" function on the dryer.  Also, the dryer usually does a cool down cycle  at the end of normal drying.  Niether function works now.  If one uses the dryer it always has heat.  I recently replaced the heating element and thermal fuse myself.  What can I do or check to restore the air only function?
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#2 Pegi

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Posted 06 July 2005 - 07:38 AM

Check to see if the heating element is grounded to the canister or the bracket, if it is the dryer will always have the element on unless the timer is turned to the off position or unplugged.  Something in your dryer is grounded.  Do this.......with the dryer plugged in and the door open, turn the timer on to a dry cycle, BUT DO NOT START THE DRYER.   Look inside of the dryer door to see if the element is on, you will see a red glow from the left side behind the back wall of the dryer drum. If it is you have 240 volts feeding thru the whole dryer including the case, so up-plug the dryer till this is resolved so you do not get electrocuted.
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#3 hwood

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Posted 08 July 2005 - 06:30 AM

That did not work.  The element did not come on under those conditions.  It appears that some switch is closed that shouldn't be.  Any idea where it might be or how to test?

 

Hwood:yikes:

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#4 Pegi

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Posted 08 July 2005 - 06:45 AM

If you have heat in the cool down and the air fluff cycle and the element is not grounded you likely have welded contacts inside of the timer.  The heat contacts do not close in the air only cycle and they break contact for the last 10 minutes of the PP cycle, so sounds like they are touching, providing heat at all times?  You will need to see if there is cont. from the heater timer terminals on the back of the timer when you rotate the timer, should not be any in air fluff and the last 10 minutes of the PP and last 5 minutes of regular. Check the terminals you mentioned, with the dryer unplugged, after accessing the timer in the console using your ohm meter.  If you show any reading, with the wires unplugged from the timer, with it in air fluff, would suspect welded contacts in the timer. You might be able to carefully take the timer apart and see if you could seperate these with a razor blade and sanding them off, but if they break you will end up with no heat at all. So you might be prepared to replace the timer if they are welded.
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#5 hwood

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Posted 15 July 2005 - 08:52 AM

OK, I looked at the wiring diagram on the inside of the panel door and it showed that duing the air and cool down cycle the  BK-R and T-BY timer switches should be open.  So, I unplugged the dryer and opened up the top panel and disconnected the wires from the timer.  With my electrical tester set to measure ohms, I tested with one lead from the tester on T and the other on BY and there was nothing.  Then one lead on BK and the other on R and I got a reading ie closed circut.  Does this mean that this is the bad switch?  Does it matter what position the timer is set to even though it is unplugged? Now what? How hard is it to disassemble a time to try to unconnect a bad switch?  Please advise.

 

Hwood

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#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 15 July 2005 - 01:53 PM

Post a picture of your wiring diagram so we can see it, too.

Are you making your continuity check with at least one wire disconnected from the terminals to avoid reading back through the rest of the circuit?




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